Strictly for vac purge, long after the butane is gone.
Deep dish griddle-16$ walmart
Bag of all purpose Sand -4$ Home Depot
Sand is used in the place of water. Water baths bring steam into the equation , something we need to avoid when making oil.
It holds and buffers heat much better, and does not evaporate.
Empty a generous amount of sand directly into griddle, at least 3".
Level out the sand, and nestle the chamber into the sand.
Now, take more sand and pour around the sidewalls of the chamber, essentially burying the bottom 1/3 of the chamber.
You now have a stable consistent source of heat, closest to a vac oven as possible.
I also use a meat thermometer with the probe, I place this in a fashion where the probe is in between the surface of the sand and the bottom of the chamber.
I use this to monitor temps without having to break vac, open lid and take a reading.
Simply calibrate to your setup.
For me, I turn the rheostat on the griddle to "warm" , my probe in the sand will read 138* , which translates to my oil temp being 115* exactly.
Calibrate with each run/strain, as some resins are more viscous than others, requiring an adjustment in temps.
Hope this helps
Strictly for vac purge, long after the butane is gone.
Deep dish griddle-16$ walmart
Bag of all purpose Sand -4$ Home Depot
Sand is used in the place of water. Water baths bring steam into the equation , something we need to avoid when making oil.
It holds and buffers heat much better, and does not evaporate.
Empty a generous amount of sand directly into griddle, at least 3".
Level out the sand, and nestle the chamber into the sand.
Now, take more sand and pour around the sidewalls of the chamber, essentially burying the bottom 1/3 of the chamber.
You now have a stable consistent source of heat, closest to a vac oven as possible.
I also use a meat thermometer with the probe, I place this in a fashion where the probe is in between the surface of the sand and the bottom of the chamber.
I use this to monitor temps without having to break vac, open lid and take a reading.
Simply calibrate to your setup.
For me, I turn the rheostat on the griddle to "warm" , my probe in the sand will read 138* , which translates to my oil temp being 115* exactly.
Calibrate with each run/strain, as some resins are more viscous than others, requiring an adjustment in temps.
Hope this helps
Hey i have 2 questions.
1. I cant tell by the picture but how is the pressure gauge hooked up. And how did u get it to be connected to the lexan sheet.
2. And for clarification. You ran your bud collected it on parchment paper. Andstraight from there u put it in the vacuum chamber. Or did u heat it up a little before you put it in
pretty much plug and play. dont have to fuck around with jimmy rigged bullshit. Closed loop systems are ideal, but just for personal the link above is the shit. i use the taller one 3 gal i believe. also go a scientific hot plate from the chemistry lab at UMASS. dial in your temp. make shatter you can be proud of. funny that 2 years later people are still using PVC pipe and panny hose, and no purge yummy http://www.amazon.com/Chamber-Ureth...qid=1411594580&sr=8-7&keywords=vacuum+chamber
I too know nothing about co2 extractons. ive also never tried any co2 oil so i couldent tell you if ones better than the other. what i like about bho is being abel to control the consistency and texture while purging. you can make shatter,wax ,budder or honeycomb depending on what you like. all co2 oil ive seen has been a amber glass or shatter consistency.