N
Nada
- 67
- 8
yes they do work, although light penetration sucks. your nugs will not be as dence but if you don't have the $$ Cfl's are an excellent way to go for personal
S
still learnin
- 44
- 0
thanks to all..now mabey i can start some of these mnt.cook beans..ill keep you posted..
S
Skunky
Guest
Cfl
Hey SL This is a Agent Orange flowered under cfl's Hope this helps SkUnKy.
Hey SL This is a Agent Orange flowered under cfl's Hope this helps SkUnKy.
S
still learnin
- 44
- 0
how many cfls&what watt.thanks skunky
V
VAPOUR
- 134
- 18
Hey SL My bro used one of those big cfl bulbs 200w 2700k:mmm
sedate
- 948
- 63
IMHO, the best CFL arrays use mutliple 23w bulbs of comprised of two spectrums: 2700K and 6500K bulbs at a 1:1 ratio for a all-the-way through lighting system which one set of bulbs spaced every 10 inches or so.
The bulb interconnects that dooobster posted are the right ones to look for - but I would not mount them flat like that.
You want to paint your mounting surface flat white as well.
If you keep your plants relatively short, practice good pruning and emply a high-yielding technique like a SCROG - you could concievably do as well as a typical HID grower, methinks.
Good luck.
The bulb interconnects that dooobster posted are the right ones to look for - but I would not mount them flat like that.
You want to paint your mounting surface flat white as well.
If you keep your plants relatively short, practice good pruning and emply a high-yielding technique like a SCROG - you could concievably do as well as a typical HID grower, methinks.
Good luck.
Big Buddy
- 1,364
- 163
Flower leaves something to be desired with cfls, not to say you cant, or the herb will not be nice to smoke, but it will take a touch longer, and yields are pretty low for the most part. Now for veg/mother/clones, all that jazz, fucking sick! I've got 15 3 foot tall, thick mothers under 3 200 w cfls, and t5 side lighting, I'll never build a mother roo another way again!
Big Buddy
- 1,364
- 163
Skunky did a damn fine job with one there, thats for sure!
Rushoe
- 990
- 43
Shit cfls are sick such cheap low heat bulbs I do all my veg with cfls that home depot have 65 watt I think and even some Philips 23 watt on Y sockets they take a lil bit longer but its all good with in 2 months I usually have a few nice moms to take mad clones and to have my next indoor one ready for flower and some for outside.Shit I even traded up an Nice PURE KUSH mother for a half zip of Chemdog D I was just gonna chop it up and make clones anyway.... SO yeah clfs for veg an hps for flower of coerce mh would be better but for a small amount of plants u should be cool with cfls and hps for flower....Even for ur set up 250 400 hps should do the trick.Did one with 2 months veg with cfl and flowered with a 250 hps I got 6 and half zips dry.
J
Jimson
- 71
- 8
Yes, they can be very useful
...according to what I have heard. :mmm You can use the 65watt Brite bulbs from your Home Depot for all your flowering. If you have the room, the 125; 200 & 250 watt units work very well for flowering in the simplest reflector. (Any unit with an internal ballast will get Hot!)
They are economical - most lights I put on a Kill-a-Watt meter are actually using less than rated.
They are stealthy because they run silent and generate less heat. You still need airfow, a cfl in a closed box can cause temps high enough to kill plants.
Using one 200-watt cfl - If ambient temp is 70 degrees, the temps in a 3'x3' mom tent will be from 78-84 degrees using a simple 4-inch fan for exhaust through a filter.
23 watt daylight clfs -1st light for seedlings - you can get right up close and cut down on stretching.
Yield will be less than what you'd get using HID lights.
An 8-week plant becomes a 10-12 week plant. Buds can be dense but that is strain-related. The flower sites not directly exposed to bright light will show a wide range of developing calyxes. Well before harvest time, you will see clear trichs with a few brown heads sprinkled in like pepper. Do not harvest by the color of the hairs - this worked for Skunks but not for PPP, WW or Chocolope.
Cfl's can be used to supplement T5 fluorescents - filling in holes in your 'canopy' or where light penetration fails.
You can slowly build up the light in your grow - bulb by bulb. But the number of cords and fixtures gets ugly. Try to plan ahead.
Don't stock up on cfls based on price, there are a LOT of poor quality units out there. The bulbs you get a Lowes or your grocery store are likely fine. Watch for cfls that lose a third of their output after only 2 weeks. I have heard ...that some Feit 40-watters (2700K) lose power after a month but they also sell excellent lights too.
One last thing - use only mechanical timers - the digital ones don't play well with cfls.
So I have heard...
BCNU
...according to what I have heard. :mmm You can use the 65watt Brite bulbs from your Home Depot for all your flowering. If you have the room, the 125; 200 & 250 watt units work very well for flowering in the simplest reflector. (Any unit with an internal ballast will get Hot!)
They are economical - most lights I put on a Kill-a-Watt meter are actually using less than rated.
They are stealthy because they run silent and generate less heat. You still need airfow, a cfl in a closed box can cause temps high enough to kill plants.
Using one 200-watt cfl - If ambient temp is 70 degrees, the temps in a 3'x3' mom tent will be from 78-84 degrees using a simple 4-inch fan for exhaust through a filter.
23 watt daylight clfs -1st light for seedlings - you can get right up close and cut down on stretching.
Yield will be less than what you'd get using HID lights.
An 8-week plant becomes a 10-12 week plant. Buds can be dense but that is strain-related. The flower sites not directly exposed to bright light will show a wide range of developing calyxes. Well before harvest time, you will see clear trichs with a few brown heads sprinkled in like pepper. Do not harvest by the color of the hairs - this worked for Skunks but not for PPP, WW or Chocolope.
Cfl's can be used to supplement T5 fluorescents - filling in holes in your 'canopy' or where light penetration fails.
You can slowly build up the light in your grow - bulb by bulb. But the number of cords and fixtures gets ugly. Try to plan ahead.
Don't stock up on cfls based on price, there are a LOT of poor quality units out there. The bulbs you get a Lowes or your grocery store are likely fine. Watch for cfls that lose a third of their output after only 2 weeks. I have heard ...that some Feit 40-watters (2700K) lose power after a month but they also sell excellent lights too.
One last thing - use only mechanical timers - the digital ones don't play well with cfls.
So I have heard...
BCNU
sedate
- 948
- 63
CFL Lovin'
?
HomeDepot does not sell 65w (input power) CFL bulbs.
All CFL's have internal ballasts. Every single one.
?
The OP is concerned about cost - a 200w CFL, installed, will cost what a 150 - 250w HID would cost.
He could get a complete 150w HPS Regent security lamp for less than the 200w bulb alone.
^^^ This isn't wrong exactly but 'daylight' is a different term for every manufacturer..
'Daylight' tends to hover around 4000 - 5000K. The photosynthetic peaks would be better served by 6500K bulbs or 6500K and 2700K bulbs on a 1:1 ratio on Y-sockets.
Bah. A CFL array designed with ~60 - ~70w sq/ft, spectrally balanced, hovering just over plants flowered at 12" - will produce buds just as good, fast, and fat as a typical HID.
I would agree that the "typical" CFL grow would more closely follow the outline you proscribed Jimson - but, IMO, that reflects the grower, not the technological potential.
Don't stock up on CFL's based on price at Wal-Mart.
Four-packs of Phillips-brand 23w CFL's are ~ $5 - $6 at Home Depot.
The sockets and y-sockets will actually be as expensive or more than the bulbs.
CFL's will produce a pretty low quality grow if a slap-dash approach using clamp-lamps or something like that is employed.
Sockets with Y-sockets wired together in parallel 8-10" apart. 2700K and 6500K 23w CFL's on a 1:1 ratio. Cut the end off a $2.50 extension cord and use that as the plug.
Like so:
Jimson said:
?
HomeDepot does not sell 65w (input power) CFL bulbs.
All CFL's have internal ballasts. Every single one.
Jimson said:
?
The OP is concerned about cost - a 200w CFL, installed, will cost what a 150 - 250w HID would cost.
He could get a complete 150w HPS Regent security lamp for less than the 200w bulb alone.
Jimson said:
^^^ This isn't wrong exactly but 'daylight' is a different term for every manufacturer..
'Daylight' tends to hover around 4000 - 5000K. The photosynthetic peaks would be better served by 6500K bulbs or 6500K and 2700K bulbs on a 1:1 ratio on Y-sockets.
Jimson said:
Bah. A CFL array designed with ~60 - ~70w sq/ft, spectrally balanced, hovering just over plants flowered at 12" - will produce buds just as good, fast, and fat as a typical HID.
I would agree that the "typical" CFL grow would more closely follow the outline you proscribed Jimson - but, IMO, that reflects the grower, not the technological potential.
Jimson said:
Don't stock up on CFL's based on price at Wal-Mart.
Four-packs of Phillips-brand 23w CFL's are ~ $5 - $6 at Home Depot.
The sockets and y-sockets will actually be as expensive or more than the bulbs.
Jimson said:
CFL's will produce a pretty low quality grow if a slap-dash approach using clamp-lamps or something like that is employed.
Sockets with Y-sockets wired together in parallel 8-10" apart. 2700K and 6500K 23w CFL's on a 1:1 ratio. Cut the end off a $2.50 extension cord and use that as the plug.
Like so:
true grit
- 6,269
- 313
Agreed, back in texas to save power and heat made a killer box using the 65w 2700k Cfl....took 3- 65w and 2-42w....nice pretty dense resinous bud for sure....
IMO though, when you get to using a couple hundred watts of CFL- you are better off goin with an HPS, even if its small such as 250w or 400w... Cooling becomes easier and more importantly the lumen flux is in a more desirable range for decent penetration of canopy.
Heres a simple scrog with 4-65w, but again density compared to HPS and flowering time was extended....
Sedate- most definitely agree, the blue in your mixed spectrum probably does help chunk and drop some flower time compared to using all 2700k...
IMO though, when you get to using a couple hundred watts of CFL- you are better off goin with an HPS, even if its small such as 250w or 400w... Cooling becomes easier and more importantly the lumen flux is in a more desirable range for decent penetration of canopy.
Heres a simple scrog with 4-65w, but again density compared to HPS and flowering time was extended....
Sedate- most definitely agree, the blue in your mixed spectrum probably does help chunk and drop some flower time compared to using all 2700k...
Rushoe
- 990
- 43
Agreed, back in texas to save power and heat made a killer box using the 65w 2700k Cfl....took 3- 65w and 2-42w....nice pretty dense resinous bud for sure....
IMO though, when you get to using a couple hundred watts of CFL- you are better off goin with an HPS, even if its small such as 250w or 400w... Cooling becomes easier and more importantly the lumen flux is in a more desirable range for decent penetration of canopy.
Heres a simple scrog with 4-65w, but again density compared to HPS and flowering time was extended....
Sedate- most definitely agree, the blue in your mixed spectrum probably does help chunk and drop some flower time compared to using all 2700k...
True Grit mad skills with the cfl's bro ....Just wanted to drop some props...
J
Jimson
- 71
- 8
Dang it Sedate might be right again! The Brite Effects 65watt ("300 watt equivalent." warm) is sold at Lowes.
My own comments are for the guy or gal that is just getting started or wondering if cfl's will do the job. My point? They do work.
Hey, Mixing warm & daylight cfl's gives faster finish times? Good to know - Thanks.
My own comments are for the guy or gal that is just getting started or wondering if cfl's will do the job. My point? They do work.
Hey, Mixing warm & daylight cfl's gives faster finish times? Good to know - Thanks.
akhippi
- 34
- 8
Yes u can finish flowering w/ CFL`s,did it.
B
Bearsfather
- 42
- 0
I use flourescents exclusively; from germination to harvest....
akhippi
- 34
- 8
spirals
Sure can dude and it can be just as nice as anything out there.Best of all,it`s cheap!
Sure can dude and it can be just as nice as anything out there.Best of all,it`s cheap!
S
still learnin
- 44
- 0
fuckin sweeet. TG thanks alot. sweet and sticky,thats how i like it..:character0050::character0050:grasshopperAgreed, back in texas to save power and heat made a killer box using the 65w 2700k Cfl....took 3- 65w and 2-42w....nice pretty dense resinous bud for sure....
IMO though, when you get to using a couple hundred watts of CFL- you are better off goin with an HPS, even if its small such as 250w or 400w... Cooling becomes easier and more importantly the lumen flux is in a more desirable range for decent penetration of canopy.
Heres a simple scrog with 4-65w, but again density compared to HPS and flowering time was extended....
Sedate- most definitely agree, the blue in your mixed spectrum probably does help chunk and drop some flower time compared to using all 2700k...
2broke2smoke
- 90
- 18
I like the 105 watt CFL's they are about a foot long, so u have to accommodate for the length, but i have grown some nice trees with a couple of them. Be sure to get the 6800k for veg, I doubt that they would be much good for flower, except as supplemental lighting and then i would look to a 3700k color temp bulb.
2b2s
2b2s
4
420king-MASSES
- 1,504
- 48
i use a 300 watt cfl in veg for certain stages of growth it works great
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