Do I Need To Add Mycorrhizae To Promix Hp With Mycorrhizae

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Huckster79

Huckster79

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so I switched tonight from a generic promix hp knock off to name brand... I see the name brand has the mycorrhizae already in it... Is there sufficient amount added to it? How long before adding to it is needed? Why do most of products to bring mycorrhizae recommend repeated application throughout? If it is to create a colony are these things not self sustaining at some point? Is there any science that non-organic nutes Harm these little fellows?
 
Natural

Natural

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if anything is left alive in the promix it would be a miracle imho. I've used Xtreme Mykos and didn't see any good results at all.. may have even hurt my plants slightly. The only product of this nature that I've seen worth adding with visual results..is to dust the rootball at transplant with OGBiowar's Nute Pack..awesome stuff
 
Savage Henry

Savage Henry

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Adding additional mycorrhizae probably won't hurt anything.

From what I understand (and maybe others can cite a research paper backing this) high levels of ammonium nitrate and phosphorus can inhibit mycorrhizal growth.

In coco I use a solution of great white mycorrhizae as per the instructions on the label bi weekly until the second week of flower.
 
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GrwrGoneWild

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so I switched tonight from a generic promix hp knock off to name brand... I see the name brand has the mycorrhizae already in it... Is there sufficient amount added to it? How long before adding to it is needed? Why do most of products to bring mycorrhizae recommend repeated application throughout? If it is to create a colony are these things not self sustaining at some point? Is there any science that non-organic nutes Harm these little fellows?

There is some research indicating that high P and K levels is detrimental to Myco. Im going to ramble a bit, but this might helps you understand mycorrhizae better. If you're going to apply a product high in PK, try something plant based.

Its more or less suggested that Mycorrhizae, treatments have variable results and are still experimental. David Whiting, "The Science of Gardening". Off the top of my head he says that Mycorrhizae species are specific to certain plants and they are trees, not annuals.

If I reference Jeff Lowenfells, "Teaming with Microbes" he suggests that annuals are more suited towards bacterial teas, or soils with high bacterial activity.

So, lets look at Orca, a product put out by Plant Revolution, it says myco, but it has more bacteria species than anything else. Among other things like humics, B.. etc. .. When I look at a product like this, it confirms what Jeff says. They know that this product is likely to be used on Cannabis spp.

So.. on to application, if you are going to apply myco, you need to put it directly on the roots, any other way I feel is a waste of the product, but if you look at what most myco products are they have bacteria in them. If you've ever done any inoculation using spores, you put that directly on the food they need, and that happens to be the exposed roots during transplant. Concentrate on the rootball/transplant hole.

So why the repeated application for the product?.. If you ever look at bacteria in a microscope, they dont move in anyway that makes sense, Fungi does "move" ever notice how fast fungus takes over?. The point is to inoculate with bacteria as most of those products have lots of bacteria, not much myco. You have to spread the product around to make it work.

One thing I need to do is look at Orca under a microscope to see whats in the bottle, I'm curious to see what liquid myco treatment actually contains. See if I can find any live critters under 2000x.
 
Huckster79

Huckster79

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Fascinating! Thank you for the knowledge sharing. So it sounds like the most accurate knowledge we have access to is not cut and dried on the subject... Maybe a good subject for a personal side by side...

The theory makes sense but if done technical differences both in species and harming the herd with what most of us would consider normal nutes the adding of it could be nothing more than snake oil for our crop- especially if we aren't full organic... Which may be in my future at some point but not quite yet.
 
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GrwrGoneWild

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My opinion is that vermicompost, compost, or compost tea is the most effective way to get the microbes on the roots for transplant, if you are working from a sterile medium like rockwool. Most commercial soils like promix are pastureized, so they need a bit of active culture to get it going in the right direction. Even plain old dirt from the forest floor could be a way to inoculate your soil with a live culture and myco for free.

I'm still researching the myco question, but you can get great results without using a myco product. I would favor EWC or compost teas over commercial myco products.
 
Huckster79

Huckster79

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This ? Prob will expose my depth of experience- but I'm running H16 full line up minus roots... Using rhiziblast as I got a bunch of samples to burn through- could I use a compost tea in place of a water only day to do this?
 
Rootbound

Rootbound

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This ? Prob will expose my depth of experience- but I'm running H16 full line up minus roots... Using rhiziblast as I got a bunch of samples to burn through- could I use a compost tea in place of a water only day to do this?

Yes, thats what i do. Feed,feed,tea, repeat. Kind of like dinner,dinner, dessert.
 
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GrwrGoneWild

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I like that idea!!! Looks like I'll be looking up some tea recipes tonight!!!

Teas can be adjusted to favor fungal activity or bacteria activity.

1) You'll save money.
2) If you have a microscope you'll see how much more potent live cultures are vs a commercial shelved product.
3) Recycle stuff, I use trim in my teas, bacteria like nitrogen. I get rid of my kids candy by putting it in the brewer.
4) You'll have a better understanding of soil biology if you look into the mechanism of microbes.

Look into vermicomposting, its more available nutrition to the plant vs regular compost. And its loaded with things like polysaccharides and bacteria from the worms. If you incorporate more organic matter into your soil you'll increase the effectiveness of your fertilizer.
 
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