Does this work?

[tedsprogz]

if given the correct hormone or hormones can you cut the top off the plant and plant the stem of the donor into a container creating a wishbone look?

 

[tedsprogz]

If it worked it would open a whole new door to things(diff ph containers for more nute availability, and not having to pump water all the way from the stem to the top, it would cut the load down.) anybody try this?? imma have to start messin with diff auxins and hormones myself lol. or start reading more about botany of dicots....to google i go...

 

[joehank]

It should work I would think. Just like creating a clone so it should sprout some roots if the conditions are right. Just have to be careful bending it. Probably work well for some vine type like trainwreck

 

[tedsprogz]

I'm torn between if the roots on the right would be feeding to the left side. When you air-layer plant I THINK the new rooted part only feeds the plant from the new rooted part and upwards.

 

[bigcheese510]

I'm torn between if the roots on the right would be feeding to the left side. When you air-layer plant I THINK the new rooted part only feeds the plant from the new rooted part and upwards.

the plant will still recieve nutes and water from the original plant untill cut but if you let the air layer dry out it will also affect the plant in a harmful way

 

[El Cerebro]

Dood you should totally test this. I've always wondered about how/which roots supply the still attached airlayer (always kind assumed it was both until cut, with more demand on the new mass as it develops).

Multiple lines of nutrient transport would be an interesting trick (or horrendous mutation?) Maybe even bury multiple points along the stem (don't people do this with tomatoes?)

Seems like the bridge effect would work best (if at all) with young cuts of branchy cultivar? What could this mean for plant-count? Would both ends need to be in the same container to be one plant? Think of the lst/scrog options! Could be perfect for espalier along a wall..

 

[tedsprogz]

Soil Layering
Soil layering may be performed in several ways. The most common is known as tip layering. A long, supple vegetative lower limb is selected for layering, carefully bent so it touches the ground, and stripped of leaves and small shoots where the rooting is to take place. A narrow trench, 6 inches to a foot long and 2 to 4 inches deep, is dug parallel to the limb, which is placed along the bottom of the trench, secured with wire or wooden stakes, and buried with a small mound of soil. The buried section of stem may be girdled by cutting, crushed with a loop of wire, or twisted to disrupt the phloem tissue and cause the accumulation of substances which promote rooting. It may also be treated with growth regulators at this time.
Serpentine layering may be used to create multiple layers along one long limb. Several stripped sections of the limb are buried in separate trenches, making sure that at least one node remains above ground between each set of roots to allow shoots to develop. The soil surrounding the stem is kept moist at all times and may require wetting several times a day.

 

[tedsprogz]

so that answers that...im going to try and use a lower branch of my soil run into a 1x1 rockwool cube then into a hydro dwc cup. see if i can supplement the plant with hydro nutes

 

[Confuten1]

I love threads like this!!! Awesome, carry on gentlemen!!!

Confu...

 

[joehank]

yes, and put some rooting gel or clonex or RE in that bitch too!

 

[El Cerebro]

^can make it ourselves with iba/naaa, pretty essential for air layering if you don't want to wait a year. guessing beneficial microbes will speed the process too.

 

[neverbreak]

i expect that if a node is buried in both pots, roots will grow from both and it would work.

neverbreak

 

[rootsnshoots]

What exactly are you attempting? A) to bend a plant over and cut the top off and bury the top into another container? or B) grow two plants and graft them together in an arch?

If it worked it would open a whole new door to things(diff ph containers for more nute availability, and not having to pump water all the way from the stem to the top, it would cut the load down.) anybody try this?? imma have to start messin with diff auxins and hormones myself lol. or start reading more about botany of dicots....to google i go...

For Q? A) I actually wanted to try this a long time ago but never did. Auxins would definitely be the answer. If you are ordering pure Auxins i would be verrrry careful on not using much. Also they need to be dissolved in KOH or NAOH (usually). Safty glasses and gloves for sure! be carful my man. I would start with NAA or IAA or both. You may be better off just going heavy with some clonex or somethin.

For Q? B) Im not sure if Auxins or atleast an all Auxin or Auxin dominant gel/soulution would be the way to go for grafting. You will need cytokinins for what they call callus. Auxins promote ROOT growth and cytokinins promote auxiliary shoots. To get Callus you need a very percise amount of both, i would "think" callus is what you would want for grafting cellulose. I would think TDZ would be a good starter for a cytokinin.

RNS

 

[tedsprogz]

" A) to bend a plant over and cut the top off and bury the top into another container?"

that one.

 

[rootsnshoots]

I think you might have best results putting the top into an aerocloner. I wanted to try to stick a bunch of side branches in on and make a spider plant.... But never did.

 

[LexLuthor]

So what exactly do you think the benefit would be by planting the top into another container?? It would be cool to see a plant connected by 2 containers, but I don't see this technique improving on yield, trichome development, ect. so, if you don't mind me asking, what are you trying to accomplish??

 

[tedsprogz]

I would have separate containers for every "part" of my formula.
This would prevent lockout due to chem reactions.
also would prevent backwards osmotic pressure( your soil or rez being too charged and sucking the water from the plant.

 

[LexLuthor]

I would have separate containers for every "part" of my formula.
This would prevent lockout due to chem reactions.
also would prevent backwards osmotic pressure( your soil or rez being too charged and sucking the water from the plant.

Sounds logical enough for me, good luck and I hope your successful.