Doktor Doom? Anyone tried?

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R

radical farmer

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I seem to have gotten a fairly good population of spider mites going on in my grow room. They have infected my flower tent (5x5, 24 plants) and have began infecting my veg tent, and I found a couple on my clones. A couple of the plants had webs forming on them. I had to kill 1 plant because it was infested so bad, that it wasn't even worth saving. We started our erracation process yesterday when we found them. Sprayed everything with neem oil. Today is when I found that they were also in the veg tent. ripped the entire veg tent and cleaned it, sprayed off all plants in the shower, including clones, and then sprayed them all with neem oil. I am also about 3 1/2 weeks into flower, so I don't want to use anything too harsh.

Okay, so I am looking into Doktor Doom fogger and spider mite knock out spray that they have. Do you guys think that this will take care of the problem? I have been keeping my humidity super high so they don't reproduce fast, but I need something to really get them. I was also maybe thinking if worse comes to worse to get the Hot Shots No pest strips, but that would be a last resort. I'd like to keep it as organic as possible when they are in flower.
 
V

vertstyle

49
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Neem, doctor doom, and hot shot always does it for me. The doctor doom works. Try not to neem the flowering plants.
 
W

WomBat

113
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doctor doom is 0.4% Pyrethrum
Pyrethrum TR is 4.0% I would got to a hydro store and pick up Pyrethrum TR
I used both dr doom first and then Pyrethrum TR and I used azamax on my veg also used
hot shots and sticky traps I havnt seen any and its been a lil over a month (knock on wood) dont waste your money on dr doom get the pyrethrum TR bomb its got to be better with 0.4>4.0 fucin mite no mercy man no mercy
Good luck
-Wombat
 
Giddeon

Giddeon

599
28
ya dr dooms a waste of money. used it a few times and didnt do a damn thing with a large problem. I have been using azamax, its a little expensive but if you have a big problem and if your plants are flowering,.. azamax is the way to go
 
R

radical farmer

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Alright, looks like I may go with the hot shots no pest, but I had a couple questions about using them. My ENTIRE grow room is 11x11 with a flower tent & a veg tent. Should I just leave 1 of the strips open in the entire room? Or should I put one in each room? The veg room is pretty small (2.9x2.9) so I don't think it would be too safe to just put one in there. And how long should do the trick? I basically want as little exposure to this toxic shit as possible. Can I leave it in the room for like 7hrs for 2 days and it will do the trick? Thanks for the help everyone! I gotta get rid of these fuckers FAST before it becomes an even bigger problem than it already is.
 
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WomBat

113
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bro if your worried about toxic the hot shot no good it helped alot i think but azamax is ormi organic bro did the trick for me i was flowering and azamaxed them and i no mites at harvest worked great when i was done flowering i cleaned everything in the room walls lights ect with water bleach suliution then bombed there where no plants so i went do town and brought out every chem i could I hate mites man hate them that Pyrethrum TR is the best fogger to use and use a hot shot while bombing let it bake then vent then clean i had pretty bad bug prob man i had mites and thrips at the same time and as said earlier benn a few months and no bugs =]
 
R

revolutionseeds

Premium Member
Supporter
240
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Unfortunately, yes and they work! Just don't let them spray on your plants or it will burn them! So when you crack it, make sure the fog is spraying away from your plants. You'll have a much higher success rate if you fog on a regular basis and use other methods to keep your plants free of pests....like neem, for example.
 
W

WomBat

113
16
i rock neem on every clone introduced and do it bi weekly to monthly for prevention/ health =]
 
norcal215

norcal215

Garden of Dreams Seed Co
1,180
263
shit i just over did it with the neem and got a little carried away got in to my roots and made the plants choke for a min they are bouncing back just fine these westcoast mite are fucking like roaches thats what i get for not looking at a cut i got from a good friend. Pyrethrum TR is a good bet for keeping it organic, but with these mites we get up here you need to mix up your regimine, its like a crackhead who started out with a 20 sack well 20's dont get him high no more so he is smoking a 100 sack a day these mites get amune quick so just switch it up..... save them bro i wanna try what you have left of the nanna
 
M

mcattak

Guest
Alright, looks like I may go with the hot shots no pest, but I had a couple questions about using them. My ENTIRE grow room is 11x11 with a flower tent & a veg tent. Should I just leave 1 of the strips open in the entire room? Or should I put one in each room? The veg room is pretty small (2.9x2.9) so I don't think it would be too safe to just put one in there. And how long should do the trick? I basically want as little exposure to this toxic shit as possible. Can I leave it in the room for like 7hrs for 2 days and it will do the trick? Thanks for the help everyone! I gotta get rid of these fuckers FAST before it becomes an even bigger problem than it already is.


Go with the Pyrethrum TR to start..Then move on to other forms of maintenance...

Oh yeah they cost $30..$ well spent..


mc
 
2

20north

283
0
man its not always good to totally flood your plants with poison go with the one with .4 and then go with the stronger pyrethrum if you really must. it really matters what stage your plants are in .. try to prop up the foggers they shouldnt be on the floor most likely at level with the plants so it can go up and then float around more

-apple cider


all those foggers do damage the cell walls of the plant so just dont make it a big habit of using them all the time, sometimes its better to just live with the bugs :giggle than to live with poison
watch out this is the main reason why oil can be lame is because the oil might be high in toxins from trying to fight bugs

getting in to spider-mite destroyer bugs is a good investment if you have the time....

peace

-apple cider
 
I

InvisibleM

214
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Doktor Doom is non toxic and made to be used indoors, and can be used on food crops up until the day of harvest. Many other foggers are meant to kill fleas and not meant to be used on consumable products like food.

Use a mite specific poison on your cuttings, used to be sold on ebay, one spray or dip and mites are gone, kills the eggs also...
 
B

bowlpacks

73
0
The ONLY way to totally get rid of mites is a combo of techniques. Spray neem, bomb 3 days apart, wait a few days, spray again etc. The balance seems to be the hard part because spraying neem all over your plants is gonna stress em out too. A spray with plain h20 in between is always a good idea imo. Good luck
 
M

mcattak

Guest
Doktor Dooms suck .. They dont get rid of the problem....Miticides like azatrol, azamax and floramite can be used in conjunction with the bombs....Just give the plants 2 - 4 hours of dark after bombing..
 
I

InvisibleM

214
18
Yeah floramite, that's the one that kills the eggs too. You would only use it on your cuttings because it is a poison.... dip them when they are still small.
 
B

bowlpacks

73
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Yeah floramite, that's the one that kills the eggs too. You would only use it on your cuttings because it is a poison.... dip them when they are still small.
Yeah. NEVER EVER EVER EVER EVER use Floramite in flowering or close to flip. I've used it on plants that were just transplanted from clone. According to the company 40 days out from harvest is what your shooting for, but I don't wanna give patients pesticide covered bud so I use it early (if I have to) and give the girls a good rinse with plain water a few times so there is no residual. I foliar feed too. ;)
 
A

ArthurP

1
1
Ive got a problem seems like so does everyone else, Ive tried everything from neem to liquid laybug and a few other proucts. The thing that gave me the best results was the hot shot. But after a while the mites get used to it and it has 0 affect anymore, I guess they developed some kind of resisdence to them, ive replaced them many times an even put 4 brand new ones in a 10x12 room divided into 2 rooms sealed off. im at a loss now, what is my best bet, I do keep them down from getting to bad with constant heavy air flow an lots of neem and recently i tried 0 mites wich worked a little better but for 30.00 a bottle ill just stick with the neem. Can someone give me an idea how to get rid of these permently. Im so sick off going in my room an finding spots on a leaf or 3. I despize those little bastards
 
Fuzz420

Fuzz420

24
8
Doktor Doom knock out spray works to extent. It kills on contact and will help make a severe infestation go down to minimal very quickly. Problem is does nothing for eggs and additionally the stuff can kill a plant in it tracks. Very harsh stuff. Also it says it can be used within one day of harvest, but at the same time on the back of the can it states pretty much in a nut shell flush/wash for 15-20minutes or call poision control if this stuff gets anywhere in contact on you. Also no where on the can does it say "non-toxic." Big red letters on the Back state precautionary hazard to humans and animals.

I just recently tried there fogger, and instead of using their spray again i tried this other product called NO spider mites.Non-Toxic, safe for animals and humans, and kills on contact. Ive only soaked my plants one good time and then fogged a few days, later and its already looking promising. None of my leafs burned off after treatment, no plants were lost unlike with the DD spray.Litte pricey as a 1 pint ready to use spray bottle was $25 and i pretty much used it all. From my experience i wouldnt touch the DD spidermite knock out spray with a 10 ft pole.
 
G

Good Science

7
1
Doktor Dooms suck .. They dont get rid of the problem....Miticides like azatrol, azamax and floramite can be used in conjunction with the bombs....Just give the plants 2 - 4 hours of dark after bombing..

Doktor Doom rocks as long as you use the Doktor Doom Spider Mite Knockout Plant Spray first. Foggers are released into the air and go up to the ceiling and fall on the plant canopy-so they only treat the top of the leaves-so when you spray the under side of the plant canopy first the mites run to the top of the plants. If you do not treat the underside of the Plant canopy first no foggers will give you good results especially if you have a bad infestation. This procedure must be done 3 times for 100% effectiveness. The Spider Mite Knockout Plant Spray must be used very carefully- short bursts of spray from 4 to 5 away from the plant so just a light mist actually contacts the underside of the leaves-you do not want to soak the foliage as this will cause leaf burn and the leaves will die and fall off. Once you have carefully applied this product and release a bomb-the treatment works really well-it just takes time to be thorough-and thorough gets great results.
 

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