Dolomite Lime

  • Thread starter llcoolJ
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llcoolJ

53
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Hey fellas,

I am about the flip the switch to 12/12 and have some beautiful girls going right now. 2 Lady Cane x DJ Blueberry, 1 Lady Cane, and 1 Kolossus. They are blowing up fast. I have had trouble with Ph of soil and coco in the past, so switched to hydro. Hydro went smooth, but I lost a lot of flavors and smells.

This time around I had a lockout for about a week in early veg, flushed them, and have been monitoring the runoff of the soil every watering since then, trying to keep it between 6.2 to 6.8. I had to start watering at about 8.2 and have been slowly working down, because the soil ph is starting to lower. I am now watering at a ph of 7. Since monitoring runoff, they are doing great. I just don't want to keep changing the ph of the water if I don't have to.

My question is... If I add Dolomite Lime, will I still be able to use nutrients throughout bloom? How much Lime should I use? I heard that adding lime can interfere with feeding them nutrients.

They are in 3 gallons of Roots Organic potting soil. I will be transplanting to 20 gallons of Roots Organics in Smart Pots. I want to use Roots Organics Buddha Bloom and Humboldt Ginormous.

Thanks for any educated help,

LLCoolJ
 
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llcoolJ

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Thanks FGTF!

Still wondering if adding nutrients interferes/locks out the plant?
 
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FromGROtoFLO

Guest
I would use minimal, very low dose

I havent done it personally but i know dolomite is used to mix in with your soil so people are using nutes with it
 
Surfr

Surfr

Just cruisin....
Supporter
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Lime is to balance out the PH and add a little cal/mag. I used it for years when I grew organic soil. It has no effect on nutes.
 
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SSHZ

Guest
Dolomite Lime is added to offset the fertililizer, which is acidic. I add 4 cups per 3.8 cu. ft. bale of pro-mix. It takes a while to break down so it's better to add which you mix up the soil before the grow. If I was you, I'd add 1 tablespoon per gallon of water, mixed well once a week. It will not affect your fertilizing......
 
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llcoolJ

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I really appreciate the input. A couple more questions...

I found a very fine powdered Dolomite Lime. I read that the finer the lime, the easier and quicker it can be absorbed by the plant.

SSHZ I know you said to add to soil early. Would the very fine powdered lime be ok to add directly to the soil when I transplant to 20 gallon pots for flower? And if I added to the water, would it not just be like adding Ph up? Or does it stay in the soil and remain a buffer?

Sorry for all of the questions, I don't want to mess up my girls.

Thanks again,

LLCoolJ
 
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SSHZ

Guest
1. The finer the better since it will break down quicker but remember it's not "right away". It takes a few weeks to start working.

2. Yes, add it when you transplant. No, it's not like pH up because it takes a while to do it's thing. pH up works instantly.

3. It does stay in the soil for a few months and works continuely.

Lastly, how much lime to add???? I'd add 1 to 1 1/3 cup per 20 gallon pot. Mix it very well in so there are no hot spots (clumps of lime when it gets wet).
 
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llcoolJ

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SSHZ you are the man. I very much appreciate the help. Hopefully I can avoid the yellowing I usually get at around week 5. Adding lime along with measuring runoff, and I have high hopes for this round.

LLCoolJ
 
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SSHZ

Guest
I should also recommend getting one of the enzymes i.e. Prozyme, Cannazyme, or Hygrozyme. These enzymes help break down the build up of fertilizer (and thus salts) enabling the plant to use more up effectively. Since using these- I use 2 different ones each crop- 5 ml per gallon- I don't need to flush anymore. EVER. This will help with your yellowing in flowering.......
 
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llcoolJ

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I actually have a bottle of Cannazym that I never use. I will start using at 5ml per gallon. Do I mix directly with nutes, and how often should I apply?

After I watered today, I got a bunch of really awesome Springtails flowing up to the top of the soil. Haven't seen any bugs until today, so I'm kinda bummed.

From the majority of reading I have done, they are harmless, but I don't give a shit, they are gross, and I want them gone. Supposedly they feed on dead organic material. Maybe the Cannazym will rid the dead material and they will diminish in population?

I was also going to go get some Azamax, because I haven't read that there is anything organic that really helps other than Azamax. Any suggestions SSHZ?
 
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SSHZ

Guest
1. Cannazym is good stuff......I use it regularly and it will eliminate some problems people deal with. Yes, mix it with anything including fertilizer- it doesn't matter. Every watering too.

2. Love Azamax. I use it all the time. Mix it up following directions and drench your pots. Make sure it can be used against the bugs you are drying to destroy- the list is in the packaging......
 
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llcoolJ

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Dude, I think your experience will really help me this time around. Can't tell you enough how much this helps buddy!

I heard Azamax helps control the population, but haven't been able to find anything organic that can actually completely eradicate them. Springtails are all females, so even one can reproduce.

If you know of another product I should try, that would be sweet.

LLCoolJ
 
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SSHZ

Guest
Azamax is great but you should only use it occasionally. Doctor Doom makes a Spider Mite Knock Out Insecticide Plant Spray which is basically Pyrethrins, which are natural and break down to harmless ingredients within a few hours. It's also safe to use within 1 day of harvest......... It's good for spot treatment on basically anything flying or jumping.

Doktor Doom also make a Total Release Fogger, also made from Pyrethrins which is GREAT. After I finsih a crop, I always bomb the room with these. I've never seen a bug make it thru after one of these was set off. Very effective. I'd recommend one of these and an Azamax drench. This should kill off everything and anything......
 
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