Hmm.. i won’t bother arguing cause that seems to be working for you. To each their own right. There is no “right” time to harvest it seems. Depends how you like it. I didn’t wait for amber till my 4th or 5th round lol.. I’ll tell ya what tho, I always do now.Yeah I do underfeed I’ll admit. And I think yield suffers.
Idk about potency though
I’m ready to lab this chit it’s so good. Litterally anyone who’s tried it says nothing in the multiple dispensaries touches it. Im offered better than dispensary prices but don’t sell it.
I’m actually running clones from a mother I’ve ran clones of for a year now. I’m feeding these full strength and feeding an extra week before flushing to see if anything’s different. They’re demanding the full strength with booster on top of it daily. And clean water 10 hrs later cause they’re dry again
. So end will be same strain n plant I’m used to
just full strength instead of normal half strength nutes I run with booster. I will still do a flush at end. But I think all the extra feed is just gonna make it harder to clean up before trichs done. Once they’re done they’re done. No adding time to flush.
I do not chase Amber trichs at all. They are no good. They are the first sign of all this work going in a toilet.
Atta boy. Looks good brotha. Fed til chop hey? What we’re ya feeding at ? Organic or salt based ? That’s what I shoot for is some yellowing(not too much) and if the strains got it in her maybe some purple too, but I don’t push hard for the purp too much puts the flavor off imo. These were all 2+ weeks FLUSH and never seen over 1.4ec early flower tapering down as flower progressedView attachment 851389View attachment 851390View attachment 851391View attachment 851392
daaaaamn!
I know you’re a seasoned vet at this. What’s your take on dark ash brotha? Too much N? Potassium? You’re an organic outdoor guy right? Fuckin hate dark ash it kills the flavor. If I gotta relight a doob it’s not clean enough for me. Some strains I can leave a joint burning just chilling there burning away not even puffing on it and it’ll burn practically all the way down on its own( usually the fuely or piney terp strains). But other strains what I’d consider more cookie influence I’ll feed really low 5-600 ppm tapering down after week 5 into a 2 ish week flush and they still may have the odd salt n pepper ash. Idk. PeaceHow exactly does this work scientifically? How does one leach chlorophyll by watering/flushing their plant?......
started first run waiting on Amber trichs. Never again. These trichs were on the worst bud I’ve grown. And it looked great smelled great. Amber trichs are sign of degradation. They go amber right b4 the heads collapse. Cloudy trichs are higher in thc than Amber trichs. Amber is the first sign you’re pushing too far. As good as it looks the Amber trichs ruined it.Hmm.. i won’t bother arguing cause that seems to be working for you. To each their own right. There is no “right” time to harvest it seems. Depends how you like it. I didn’t wait for amber till my 4th or 5th round lol.. I’ll tell ya what tho, I always do now.
That’s blasted beautiful there bud
daaaaamn!
500 ppm or 1.0 ec .What was feed strength before the month?
Yes, my tap is almost 400 ppm so I run RO for my plants.Lookin good dude. I can tell that burns white. 200ppm is pretty low bro. The tap at my old place came out at 200 and I’d flush w it 2+wk it would come out clean. I don’t think cal is the bad guy as far as dark ash is concerned more like the savior
Idk I never check ppm of nothing. I go by directions on bottle but usually 1/2 strength of that. If I see more demand or fading I’ll bump 3 part up evenly. But I never check ppm. I just feed a full course meal every day and a clean water every day when they dry.500 ppm or 1.0 ec .
This run it’s full course anyways. Full strength. They’re greener. But idk if that’s good as pistils are starting to turn now.Idk I never check ppm of nothing. I go by directions on bottle but usually 1/2 strength of that. If I see more demand or fading I’ll bump 3 part up evenly. But I never check ppm. I just feed a full course meal every day and a clean water every day when they dry.
I know you’re a seasoned vet at this. What’s your take on dark ash brotha? Too much N? Potassium? You’re an organic outdoor guy right? Fuckin hate dark ash it kills the flavor. If I gotta relight a doob it’s not clean enough for me. Some strains I can leave a joint burning just chilling there burning away not even puffing on it and it’ll burn practically all the way down on its own( usually the fuely or piney terp strains). But other strains what I’d consider more cookie influence I’ll feed really low 5-600 ppm tapering down after week 5 into a 2 ish week flush and they still may have the odd salt n pepper ash. Idk. Peace
To me there is a lot of variable to the dark ash phenomenon.
First would be the length of the carbon chains that make up the plant matter.
Second would be the waxy lipids that make up the glandular trichromes .
All my strains that have high Anthocyanin levels and turn really dark purple all have a problem with dark ash without a long curing process. That's the reason I did that experiment on the strain I pictured earlier to determine if it was a nutrient issue with the burn quality.
I think you’re on to something w the waxy lipids. One strain I’ve got OC, not caps oc, is the greasiest strain I’ve ever grown/smoked. Even at its absolute driest it still settles into a zigzag like kinetic sand all oily- one handed roll type bud. My buddy makes me rosin w it and he says it makes for a 38% return which apparently is unheard of- I’m not an extract guy myself. But anyway, that strain is very tricky to get to burn perfectly. Another friend feeds organic he flushes it (oc) for one month and it burns mint but mine is far greasierTo me there is a lot of variable to the dark ash phenomenon.
First would be the length of the carbon chains that make up the plant matter.
Second would be the waxy lipids that make up the glandular trichromes .
All my strains that have high Anthocyanin levels and turn really dark purple all have a problem with dark ash without a long curing process. That's the reason I did that experiment on the strain I pictured earlier to determine if it was a nutrient issue with the burn quality.
Ahhh but there is/was a lot of science that went into that cigarette ash my friend. Back as far as the 60’s (from what I’ve seen ) there were university peer reviewed studies done on tobacco to determine the ideal nutrient blend/dry/cure to give the most clean burn. They got that shit dialed inHave you ever seen a cigarette ash? Pure white.
I don't believe in the ash color has anything to do with anything. Just my two cents. I have grown organic for 20 years now also, so I have very little to compare to.
Maybe what you are experiencing is dense flowers? I know my GSC is always so dense it's hard to stay lit, even in a bowl. Less oxygen flowing through the bud when it burns creating a black bud? Kind of like a leaf pile, some are dry and burn super easy. Some burn slow and put out a ton of black smoke. All guesses to be honest.
Just caught the part about the experiment you did.... What do you think? Was it a nutrient issue? What did you do differently? I’m finding if I can get them to yellow a bit before or during purpling it helps. It’s funny cuz all the classic og fuely/piney terp types will burn perfect even with little to no flush. And its really greasy plus I roll those joints the tightest and they’ll burn forever like a torch. Plus they go purple as hell. I’m a little stumped. I think it could maybe be improved w a different NPKCaMgS profile. The leaves,stems, and buds grow differently from og types to cookie types to sativas. I’d think it would require slightly different ratiosTo me there is a lot of variable to the dark ash phenomenon.
First would be the length of the carbon chains that make up the plant matter.
Second would be the waxy lipids that make up the glandular trichromes .
All my strains that have high Anthocyanin levels and turn really dark purple all have a problem with dark ash without a long curing process. That's the reason I did that experiment on the strain I pictured earlier to determine if it was a nutrient issue with the burn quality.
I
started first run waiting on Amber trichs. Never again. These trichs were on the worst bud I’ve grown. And it looked great smelled great. Amber trichs are sign of degradation. They go amber right b4 the heads collapse. Cloudy trichs are higher in thc than Amber trichs. Amber is the first sign you’re pushing too far. As good as it looks the Amber trichs ruined it. View attachment 851407As you see they go from cloudy to pulling all the cloud to the head then collapsing. Leaving a clear trich ( with all the thc gone) with burnt amber tip. No good and bud instantly becomes trash. I had 90-100% Amber trichs at chop. 8-10 wk strain pushed to almost 11 weeks. And I couldn’t give the weed away. It noticeably lost potency. Had no sweetness at all just bitter. Ever since chopping at cloudiest stage b4 amber
weed has been fire.
But also different seeds so.
A long cure was the only way I found that helped this cultivar burn clean.Just caught the part about the experiment you did.... What do you think? Was it a nutrient issue? What did you do differently? I’m finding if I can get them to yellow a bit before or during purpling it helps. It’s funny cuz all the classic og fuely/piney terp types will burn perfect even with little to no flush. And its really greasy plus I roll those joints the tightest and they’ll burn forever like a torch. Plus they go purple as hell. I’m a little stumped. I think it could maybe be improved w a different NPKCaMgS profile. The leaves,stems, and buds grow differently from og types to cookie types to sativas. I’d think it would require slightly different ratios
No it has a compound that is similar to estrogen and has not been proven harmful to humans.
https://www.livestrong.com/article/547762-tempeh-estrogen/
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