L
Lost
- Posts
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- Joined
- May 8, 2009
- Points
- 48
NP, just stating my viewpoint for the 1000th time. Everyone loves a broken record, hahahaha :)
Hey Lost,As is the issue with leds, spectrum is not nearly as important as intensity. Everyone love to thro up the photosynthesis charts, but real world results do not lie. Intensity > Spectrum
Been preaching this forever, but no one believes little ole me :)
As is the issue with leds, spectrum is not nearly as important as intensity. Everyone love to thro up the photosynthesis charts, but real world results do not lie. Intensity > Spectrum
Been preaching this forever, but no one believes little ole me :)
Hey Lost,
So do you veg with HPS > MH because Intensity > Spectrum? Over 3/4 of the forum would disagree with that theroy lol. I think Heath Robinson used HPS to veg all the way through to flower.
and interesting thing to think about is how many lumens can the plant actually use. Im not positive but I think on a bright day the sun gives off 100,000lumens per square meter, and im pretty sure this is blowing the sun out of the water
I wonder if there is a point of diminished returns when it comes to light or certain point where you could add all the light you want but the plant isnt going to respond in a postive way, in which case tweeking the spectrum could be a way to break that ceiling
I dont know anything about spectrum its just a thought
The light chart that I have shows about 70k to be the max lumens and anything above the plant cannot use.
Perhaps (don't know if I buy that one tho), but once you average the lighs distance to the plant, you would be lucky to see 70k lumens on every part of your plant.
I'm not expecting everyone to believe me either :)
Agreed, 145,000 is only an initial lumens rating, we all know that lumens are quickly lost as distance is gained. The buds 12 - 18" away from the bulb are probably getting a number somewhere around what can be used by the plants. Hence why even in a set up with cooled bulbs the plant can't be closer than ~10" to a 1k HPS with out ill effects. I have always felt that the reason you can get a plant closer to cooled lights isn't because the heat is gone but because the glass around the lights is cutting down on the lumens so you have to get them closer to get the same results. JMO
Hi Mary
I really dont use anything. An excellent chiller is really the key to not having any root problems. If your chiller is set to 62 degrees and can run the whole 12 hours and not climb any more than 2 degrees than your perfect. If this is not the case YOU WILL GET ROOT ROT sooner or later and probably many times. Pythium cant grow in nute solution under 65 or 66 degrees so if we keep our water colder than it just cant happen.... period.
Now lets talk about the different seasons, temp. of rooms. If your garden is in the basement then your not going to have the same problems as people with above ground gardens. Mine are all above ground. In the summer, late spring and early fall the air passing through my outdoor a/c condensers is warm, can be up to 80 degrees farenheit. I cant run nearly as many lights (about 10 1000 watt lights less) at this time as i can early spring, winter and late fall where the average temp during sundown would be minus 5 degrees farenheit.
This translates to a warmer grow room, alot warmer chiller room and when your chiller doesnt have cold air running through it it doesnt perform nearly as well and your water is going to get warmer. So the different seasons are going to play havoc on water temp and if you didnt shell out for the biggest chiller then your probably not going to have much success in the warmer months. I have battled with the summer for many years now and have finally decided to install a 2.5 ton friedrich a/c unit in my chiller/resevoir/lightboard and ballast room. I need to keep that room under 65 degrees or i have big problems.
As far as i am concerned with many years of expierience, the chiller is the most important piece of equipment there is..... PERIOD. Knowing what your chiller is doing, how its running and understanding how a chiller works is the 2nd most important step.
dds
Keep in mind there are a few of us out there, killing the mpb, who don't have active journals ;) The mpb's that failed for the most part always drifted from the dds blueprint or had environmental, mechanical, or genetic issues. The biological diseases were more than likely the result of an equipment or sanitation failure. If your an experienced grower and follow dds lead, you can do really well given the right genetics. But if your inexperienced and somehow stray from his blueprint, be prepared for headaches.
Mostly tho, its people biting off more than they could handle with limited RDWC experience.
Mostly tho, its people biting off more than they could handle with limited RDWC experience.
I agree but when you combine no experience with not following the blueprint then there is a train wreck coming in the future, and not the strain. :)
Following his exact blueprint is bullshit. Most of the current sucessful MPB'ers are using the cheaper tub setup developed way back. Now not following the environment or cutting other corners may have been an issue. Mostly I think the issue was people that did not have the experience biting off more than they could chew, and the fact the external conditions in other areas are totally different. Whats going on outside the room makes a huge difference.
Mostly tho, its people biting off more than they could handle with limited RDWC experience.
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