Monster762
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- Jun 25, 2017
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But they’ll be in the house for sure. Unless I seal up til it’s over. And got to shut exhaust cause they’ll all go out the window.
But they’ll be in the house for sure. Unless I seal up til it’s over. And got to shut exhaust cause they’ll all go out the window.Or I can get ladybugs for like $5 per 2000.
Ok and what about green cleaner. I’ve heard a lot of people reccomend it for bug issues. It says til day of harvest and supposedly “exterminates” broad and russet mites. I saw foggers too. Specifically for gardens. $50 each. I’m gonna look into em all.The predator mites would be better imo. Ladybugs, inside could be hard to manage and don’t really know if they target broad mites.
This sounds good but what has been tried in flower of a weed plant and didn’t effect the bud? That’s why I’m asking here. Google don’t know our plants. 2 different products both say same thing good til day of harvest they say to actually spray on fruits you eat on day of harvest n be ok View attachment 847503View attachment 847504
Thanks. I like the sounds of that insecticidal soap with pyrethrum and not crazy expensive considering it’s 32 oz.I amputated my girl. Took the 2 branches with irregularities. No bugs detected under microscope so it was some genetic fuck up probably.
Now you alreay hit them with couple of products. If you do a pyrethrin bomb they will probably stay dead. You don’t need to do both pyrethrin and predators imo.
If they don’t find anything to eat they’ll die. So either get the predators or look into pyrehtrin. The thing about mites and they’re destined to fail indoors, imo, because they need a thriving prey population, so they can eat and breed and stay alive at healthy counts to actuall fend off another infestation.
Hope they stay clean.
hi there heres a picture of russet mites it may help you ,,macView attachment 847450 View attachment 847450
Ok first thanks for taking the time. I think I killed em. I did a complete hose down and root drench with spinosaid. Under every leaf. I let that soak in for couple hours n did it again. Then I sprayed everything with gardensafe fungicide3. I left in low lighted area but not dark for a day. So no light burn with all the moisture on foliage.Man, I kinda wish I got to this thread sooner.
I feel bad for ya, there was a lot of bad information brought forward.
My experience with broad and russet mites is extensive and I have done enough research on them for a lifetime.
First off. The photo that I quoted above, are NOT russet mites.
Hemp russet mites appear like microscopic maggots, as shown.
View attachment 847702
They are absolutely vile creatures. The damage is very obvious and specific if you know what you are looking for. They eat the freshest youngest most vigorous growth from the growing tips, and absolutely swarm pistils. They are so small and reproduce so quickly that (get ready for this) the areas they are concentrated turn yellow and sticky, as shown. The yellow is a pile of russet mites hundreds of thousands high. Absolutely disgusting and at this point, beating russets in a large scale grow is nearly impossible without losses.
View attachment 847705
View attachment 847704
Now, as for the suggestion of using neem to combat the broad mites you may or may not have.
Unfortunately I will strongly disagree with that one. Broad mites (as well as hemp russet mites, and cyclamen mites) find neem relatively benign. You may knock down populations slightly.
However, along with pyrethrins, without having a translaminar effect (able to travel through the leaf tissue, not to be confused with systemic) they are simply not effective against broads/HRM/cylamen. These mites are simply too small, and repeatedly hitting the colony with a mild pesticide which only kills a small portion of the adults, and NONE of the eggs, is FAR from ideal.
[https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26084090]
And unfortunately, as you have already sprayed neem, you will not be able to spray micronized sulfur, which has been recognized by many (large body of anecdotal references) to be THE treatment for broad/HRM. In the future, I recommend Safer brand wettable sulfur, 2tbsp/gal sprayed weekly for IPM, or every other day for 2 weeks if an outbreak occurs.
In a commercial setting where it is impossible to simply eliminate all biomatter and sanitize, I highly recommend doing a short rotation of spiromesifen (Forbid 4F) and abamectin (Avid) before starting sulfur, on vegetative plants only.
As for the predator mites, they lose effectiveness as soon as the resin begins to build. Around week 4 they are no longer financially viable.
A much better option for broad/russet mite treatment in flower is Nuke Em and Green Cleaner, rotated, being sprayed every other day to catch subsequent egg hatchings.
Anyways, onto your situation. I wouldn't rule out broad mites yet. You've come forward with some pretty classical signs of broad mites. I would keep scoping, primarily your tops. Can we see some close up photos of your tops? They seem a bit yellow. Also, do you spray your neem oil while the lights are on?
If you've got mites, your pistils will be constantly being eaten, and your new growth will be deformed.
Another observation I'm going to make is that all of your tops generally seem lighter, with purple stems. Have you checked your runoff to ensure that
A) you are not underfeeding
B) your plants are not locked out from the pH being off, or salt build up?
I spray nothing in flower. Neem on walls n floors with a rag. I spray in veg lights on or off t5 so I don’t really run into burn in there. They are broads there. The second pic is veg box. Now flower scope came back clean n I scoped good. 6 of the worse leaves n not a trace. No egg or bug. Lot of hairs though. I used a scope on phone with burst if needed for fast bugs. But nothing moved at all in flower. I am making sure I’m 100% clean n changed between boxes. Luckily they’re on opposite ends of house.Man, I kinda wish I got to this thread sooner.
I feel bad for ya, there was a lot of bad information brought forward.
My experience with broad and russet mites is extensive and I have done enough research on them for a lifetime.
First off. The photo that I quoted above, are NOT russet mites.
Hemp russet mites appear like microscopic maggots, as shown.
View attachment 847702
They are absolutely vile creatures. The damage is very obvious and specific if you know what you are looking for. They eat the freshest youngest most vigorous growth from the growing tips, and absolutely swarm pistils. They are so small and reproduce so quickly that (get ready for this) the areas they are concentrated turn yellow and sticky, as shown. The yellow is a pile of russet mites hundreds of thousands high. Absolutely disgusting and at this point, beating russets in a large scale grow is nearly impossible without losses.
View attachment 847705
View attachment 847704
Now, as for the suggestion of using neem to combat the broad mites you may or may not have.
Unfortunately I will strongly disagree with that one. Broad mites (as well as hemp russet mites, and cyclamen mites) find neem relatively benign. You may knock down populations slightly.
However, along with pyrethrins, without having a translaminar effect (able to travel through the leaf tissue, not to be confused with systemic) they are simply not effective against broads/HRM/cylamen. These mites are simply too small, and repeatedly hitting the colony with a mild pesticide which only kills a small portion of the adults, and NONE of the eggs, is FAR from ideal.
[https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26084090]
And unfortunately, as you have already sprayed neem, you will not be able to spray micronized sulfur, which has been recognized by many (large body of anecdotal references) to be THE treatment for broad/HRM. In the future, I recommend Safer brand wettable sulfur, 2tbsp/gal sprayed weekly for IPM, or every other day for 2 weeks if an outbreak occurs.
In a commercial setting where it is impossible to simply eliminate all biomatter and sanitize, I highly recommend doing a short rotation of spiromesifen (Forbid 4F) and abamectin (Avid) before starting sulfur, on vegetative plants only.
As for the predator mites, they lose effectiveness as soon as the resin begins to build. Around week 4 they are no longer financially viable.
A much better option for broad/russet mite treatment in flower is Nuke Em and Green Cleaner, rotated, being sprayed every other day to catch subsequent egg hatchings.
Anyways, onto your situation. I wouldn't rule out broad mites yet. You've come forward with some pretty classical signs of broad mites. I would keep scoping, primarily your tops. Can we see some close up photos of your tops? They seem a bit yellow. Also, do you spray your neem oil while the lights are on?
If you've got mites, your pistils will be constantly being eaten, and your new growth will be deformed.
Another observation I'm going to make is that all of your tops generally seem lighter, with purple stems. Have you checked your runoff to ensure that
A) you are not underfeeding
B) your plants are not locked out from the pH being off, or salt build up?
These are top right now. 2 minutes ago. They’re tied in net n the combo of light in there casts purple n yellow but when I block the lights off with hand the pistils whiteMan, I kinda wish I got to this thread sooner.
I feel bad for ya, there was a lot of bad information brought forward.
My experience with broad and russet mites is extensive and I have done enough research on them for a lifetime.
First off. The photo that I quoted above, are NOT russet mites.
Hemp russet mites appear like microscopic maggots, as shown.
View attachment 847702
They are absolutely vile creatures. The damage is very obvious and specific if you know what you are looking for. They eat the freshest youngest most vigorous growth from the growing tips, and absolutely swarm pistils. They are so small and reproduce so quickly that (get ready for this) the areas they are concentrated turn yellow and sticky, as shown. The yellow is a pile of russet mites hundreds of thousands high. Absolutely disgusting and at this point, beating russets in a large scale grow is nearly impossible without losses.
View attachment 847705
View attachment 847704
Now, as for the suggestion of using neem to combat the broad mites you may or may not have.
Unfortunately I will strongly disagree with that one. Broad mites (as well as hemp russet mites, and cyclamen mites) find neem relatively benign. You may knock down populations slightly.
However, along with pyrethrins, without having a translaminar effect (able to travel through the leaf tissue, not to be confused with systemic) they are simply not effective against broads/HRM/cylamen. These mites are simply too small, and repeatedly hitting the colony with a mild pesticide which only kills a small portion of the adults, and NONE of the eggs, is FAR from ideal.
[https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26084090]
And unfortunately, as you have already sprayed neem, you will not be able to spray micronized sulfur, which has been recognized by many (large body of anecdotal references) to be THE treatment for broad/HRM. In the future, I recommend Safer brand wettable sulfur, 2tbsp/gal sprayed weekly for IPM, or every other day for 2 weeks if an outbreak occurs.
In a commercial setting where it is impossible to simply eliminate all biomatter and sanitize, I highly recommend doing a short rotation of spiromesifen (Forbid 4F) and abamectin (Avid) before starting sulfur, on vegetative plants only.
As for the predator mites, they lose effectiveness as soon as the resin begins to build. Around week 4 they are no longer financially viable.
A much better option for broad/russet mite treatment in flower is Nuke Em and Green Cleaner, rotated, being sprayed every other day to catch subsequent egg hatchings.
Anyways, onto your situation. I wouldn't rule out broad mites yet. You've come forward with some pretty classical signs of broad mites. I would keep scoping, primarily your tops. Can we see some close up photos of your tops? They seem a bit yellow. Also, do you spray your neem oil while the lights are on?
If you've got mites, your pistils will be constantly being eaten, and your new growth will be deformed.
Another observation I'm going to make is that all of your tops generally seem lighter, with purple stems. Have you checked your runoff to ensure that
A) you are not underfeeding
B) your plants are not locked out from the pH being off, or salt build up?
They are broad mites. 100% sure. Not sure how different but they are labeled on the bottle. I’m ordering the insecticidal soap with pyrethrum. I also hit em with fungicide3 and 70% neem oil.Those guys drink spinosad for breakfast. Really......
When I had Russets, I would dip a branch in strait Neem or Spinosad and others to test effectiveness. They seemed to thrive in neem and spinosad.
I have a full proof plan to hold russets or broads at bay, but you are too late for that. The only products I would use in flower are far and few between. If I were you, I would.......
One round of Grandevo (read instructions) with heavy application
Second day, One round of Venerate (read Instructions) with heavy application
Fourth day, Grandevo
6th day Venerate
Then a daily hit with essential oils. I really like Pure Brand organic essential oils. Tea Tree oil does the best at killing bugs, however it smells. I would hit with Tea Tree oil first, then mix up to the citrus oils next. 10-30 drops per gallon of water, and use some yucca for a spreader. Your infestation I would hit them with 30 drops per gallon right off the bat.
Next year think predator bugs. You now have these guys, they will continue to show up crop after crop.
True bugs hate tea tree n I got that too. The flower leaves what you think? I scoped no bugs there. N cleaned scope between boxes too. My flower been looking dry up top. I water heavy twice a day now with full strength nutes in one and sugars in the other. I’m already on the predators. Any recommendations on them. Which ones? Inside in tent.Those guys drink spinosad for breakfast. Really......
When I had Russets, I would dip a branch in strait Neem or Spinosad and others to test effectiveness. They seemed to thrive in neem and spinosad.
I have a full proof plan to hold russets or broads at bay, but you are too late for that. The only products I would use in flower are far and few between. If I were you, I would.......
One round of Grandevo (read instructions) with heavy application
Second day, One round of Venerate (read Instructions) with heavy application
Fourth day, Grandevo
6th day Venerate
Then a daily hit with essential oils. I really like Pure Brand organic essential oils. Tea Tree oil does the best at killing bugs, however it smells. I would hit with Tea Tree oil first, then mix up to the citrus oils next. 10-30 drops per gallon of water, and use some yucca for a spreader. Your infestation I would hit them with 30 drops per gallon right off the bat.
Next year think predator bugs. You now have these guys, they will continue to show up crop after crop.
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