yep thanks for putting me right about the Mites ,,i thought that they were broad mites so posted that picture lol..oh well what ever mites or what every they are a bloody nuisance ,,,,mac,,Man, I kinda wish I got to this thread sooner.
I feel bad for ya, there was a lot of bad information brought forward.
My experience with broad and russet mites is extensive and I have done enough research on them for a lifetime.
First off. The photo that I quoted above, are NOT russet mites.
Hemp russet mites appear like microscopic maggots, as shown.
View attachment 847702
They are absolutely vile creatures. The damage is very obvious and specific if you know what you are looking for. They eat the freshest youngest most vigorous growth from the growing tips, and absolutely swarm pistils. They are so small and reproduce so quickly that (get ready for this) the areas they are concentrated turn yellow and sticky, as shown. The yellow is a pile of russet mites hundreds of thousands high. Absolutely disgusting and at this point, beating russets in a large scale grow is nearly impossible without losses.
View attachment 847705
View attachment 847704
Now, as for the suggestion of using neem to combat the broad mites you may or may not have.
Unfortunately I will strongly disagree with that one. Broad mites (as well as hemp russet mites, and cyclamen mites) find neem relatively benign. You may knock down populations slightly.
However, along with pyrethrins, without having a translaminar effect (able to travel through the leaf tissue, not to be confused with systemic) they are simply not effective against broads/HRM/cylamen. These mites are simply too small, and repeatedly hitting the colony with a mild pesticide which only kills a small portion of the adults, and NONE of the eggs, is FAR from ideal.
[https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26084090]
And unfortunately, as you have already sprayed neem, you will not be able to spray micronized sulfur, which has been recognized by many (large body of anecdotal references) to be THE treatment for broad/HRM. In the future, I recommend Safer brand wettable sulfur, 2tbsp/gal sprayed weekly for IPM, or every other day for 2 weeks if an outbreak occurs.
In a commercial setting where it is impossible to simply eliminate all biomatter and sanitize, I highly recommend doing a short rotation of spiromesifen (Forbid 4F) and abamectin (Avid) before starting sulfur, on vegetative plants only.
As for the predator mites, they lose effectiveness as soon as the resin begins to build. Around week 4 they are no longer financially viable.
A much better option for broad/russet mite treatment in flower is Nuke Em and Green Cleaner, rotated, being sprayed every other day to catch subsequent egg hatchings.
Anyways, onto your situation. I wouldn't rule out broad mites yet. You've come forward with some pretty classical signs of broad mites. I would keep scoping, primarily your tops. Can we see some close up photos of your tops? They seem a bit yellow. Also, do you spray your neem oil while the lights are on?
If you've got mites, your pistils will be constantly being eaten, and your new growth will be deformed.
Another observation I'm going to make is that all of your tops generally seem lighter, with purple stems. Have you checked your runoff to ensure that
A) you are not underfeeding
B) your plants are not locked out from the pH being off, or salt build up?
Yeah I’m contimplating buying predators n releasing in flower box even though I seen none in there. Correct me if I’m wrong but I think just Incase it’s worth the money even if they don’t have mites to feed on. Just from security standpoint.https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/threads/broad-mite-control.76141/
There are people battled with this shit. As i told i never combatted them and hope never have to and those eggs are 100% broad mites. Oil seems to suffocate them and actually there is a azamax and iso mix recipe that would do the job as a spray on contact probably, but canola and orange oil seems to be proven in effectiveness by researches even tho this guy had less than optimal results, complete coverage and frequent application is important with these. First you may wash them with pressurized cold water outside to knock as many of them as you can. Then go with canola and orange or do the azamax/iso mix. Then release predators. I hope you can save them cause all i hear is they are a bitch to get rid off.
I just wouldnt go with avid, forbid or any other heavy chemical with my plants and i think they are not suited for indoors anyway. You breathe the air inside after all. Tho i can see avid is proven to be the most effective against broad mites, canola oil does the job too. Also never thought about sulfur. Yeah thats a safe option too.
Well anyway you’ll find much more, using the search function.
Yeah I’m contimplating buying predators n releasing in flower box even though I seen none in there. Correct me if I’m wrong but I think just Incase it’s worth the money even if they don’t have mites to feed on. Just from security standpoint.
Ok I’ll google some predators real quick I just want something safe for flower that targets broads.Yeah there are a lot of predator names being thrown around in the thread. I think you should. But as said it’ll take time.
Ok I’ll google some predators real quick I just want something safe for flower that targets broads.
Ok I’m just trying to do a sweep even though flower tent showed no bugs. I’m in week 3As I stated above, predators lose efficacy after week 4 in flower due to heavy resin production.
yeah honestly I don’t give too much a chit about the veg plants but the net is different story. I saw no bugs in flower. But that don’t mean there isn’t a couple that’ll multiply if I don’t shut em down.Sending in predator mites now is like going into Nam. Nuke’m then a heavy water douche after chop. But if were mine, blowtorch it.
The 2 bad ones in veg 1 is probably best to just get it out of here. It’s bad but the rest seem to be happier. I’m gonna treat them for a week. My insecticidal soap with pyrethrin be here in couple days n I’ll blast that too in there. Different pesticide.
Yup I did a light pk boost. My ph I was running feeds at 6.0. Someone mentioned bringing it up a little so I went 6.2 and colors coming back. So I think it helpedWhat's your PH like? And have you by any chance just given a Phosphorus boost?
Hmm they did green back up after raising ph. But I also added to feed so I can’t say for sure what helped. I’m running 6.2 now though.When ever I use a Phosphorus boost I get a Zinc def similar to what you have, don't know why? But a higher PH seems to be the way to sort it.
They are broad mites. 100% sure. Not sure how different but they are labeled on the bottle. I’m ordering the insecticidal soap with pyrethrum. I also hit em with fungicide3 and 70% neem oil.
Flower box looks ok. I saw none. It’s on other side of house. Predators are my choice if I see one there. Ton of predators n seal the box.
True bugs hate tea tree n I got that too. The flower leaves what you think? I scoped no bugs there. N cleaned scope between boxes too. My flower been looking dry up top. I water heavy twice a day now with full strength nutes in one and sugars in the other. I’m already on the predators. Any recommendations on them. Which ones? Inside in tent.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?