DowNwithDirT
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aloha guys
good to see another set of heads working to figure this thing out
hopefully we can find out with certainty what the problem is soon - then we can really fight it and at worst, learn to control it.
I wish you were right Aladeen. But, and this is just my opinion, clean sterile clones that are cuts of cuts of cuts of cuts of cuts of an infected plant are still ticking time bombs - they will blow up. Also, if cleanliness and sterility was really the answer, the issue would not be passed down thru seed progeny. But it is. Something that is passed down from generation to generation is a matter of heredity.
nice thread Grit
stay up homies!
I've talked to a lot of people about this and many assure me that it can be grown out of it.
its just needs to veg out of it. clean/sterile clones, maybe a gen or two but the plant can bounce out of it if you feed it healthy enough. i think the main thing is you guys are either using the same bennies hardcore which develop overpopulations/ as well as drown out o2, we need regimens of ALTERNATING species and brands of bennies as well as cleaning methods. bugs arent the only thing that come resistant, and if you feed OG bio war every week i can see that happening, switch it up to great white, etc, any other spores, then do a diff cleaning method, circle around, dont let them build tolerance to anything
Anybody read this thread? Lol just givin ya a hard time!This is going to get interesting if the tests come back Negative. If it comes out positive, please post the lab results.
From some locals in our area........
I sent a sample to the lab as well and tested positive for fusarium oxysporum. Yields had dropped 50% and it took me a couple years to figure out exactly what was causing this. Rarely have I had plants wilt, but the pathogen creates symptoms that resemble nitrogen toxicity with leaf curl, and magnesium deficiency with purple stems and odd looking growth. Fan leaves get small and more narrow, especially once more pk is added in flower. We are constantly cleaning everything with Physan 20, drenches with subdue maxx/heritage, using the root and foilar pack from Og Bio War, and this pathogen doesn't seem to go away. RH has to be 60%+ or plants will not perform at all. Touring many grows in Colorado I see all the signs of it. Feel that it will be a huge issue soon for many people. I can track the fusarium back to some cuts and feel it took 6-8 months before it started effecting me. Two years later and it's becoming difficult to produce a pound a light. When I start new genetics they perform 1-2 rounds and then become sick. Now I just need to figure out how to co-exist with it because it's at multiple locations and we take lots of precautions to avoid cross contamination.
I've only had a few plants wilt in a few years. Major signs are around week 3, once PK starts to be increased. That added stress makes the plant look unhealthy with deficiencies and yellowing. Also get the pink stems like P or mag deficiency. If you ever see a plant where all the leaves are small and same size throughout the plant is a sign. When you harvest look at crown, you'll see the pathogen entering the plant through the root system and into the plant leaving a brown ring.
Your folks have gotten a positive ID for fusarium?
That would be great if so.
This is going to get interesting if the tests come back Negative. If it comes out positive, please post the lab results.
Anybody read this thread? Lol just givin ya a hard time!
Yes he said he had it and it was tested POSITIVE like two pages ago
But the seeds can be sterilized using H2O2, rubbing alcohol, bleach, or hell, maybe even milk could work, right? I mean, if I'm reading this right then it's not like viruses that are actually embedded in the embryo, it's on the seed coat/hull/husk, and that implies to me that it might be killed.I have been doing some reading. If it is Fusarium, it's worse than I thought!
Fusarium is passed through seed! That means seeds are not safe anymore!
"If seed is taken from infected plants, the seed itself is usually healthy, but the seed coat often becomes contaminated by microscopic pieces of infected tissue and by spores. Many important Fusarium wilt diseases are spread in this manner. It is always prudent to treat seed with a fungicide or heat to destroy the fungus on the seed and to protect the emerging seedlings from infection."
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/r280100811.html
"Fungicides are not effective to control this soil borne pathogen."
http://ipm.ifas.ufl.edu/resources/success_stories/T&PGuide/pdfs/Chapter5/Fusarium.pdf
I also read that this fungi easily goes airborne! I'll find the link later.
Now we know it's passed through seed and that fungicides don't work and that it's airborne. (Eagle 20 is no longer a magic bullet) It just makes the work Im doing that much more important. It's going to take a great deal of work to preserve and restore these OG's, but I'll get it done.
This is the same kind of vector control necessary to prevent spread of Septoria. You do have to change how you do things, I found the easiest was to use saucers or any other kind of water-holding container to set the plants in, then water that. Of course, I'm not sure how that could be addressed in other systems, like DWC or hydro, or UC buckets.The fungus produces two kinds of spores. Chlamydospores are resistant to drying and adverse conditions, and enable the fungus to survive extended periods in soil. Conidia are produced in a sporodochium, which is a mass of conidiophores (conidia-bearing stalks) placed tightly together. Sporodochia are sometimes visible as small, pink-to-orange cushions on dead tissue as well as along hyphae. Conidia are spread by splashing water and can contaminate tools and hands. There are two types of conidia: macroconidia (large, multi-celled spores) and microconidia (small, one-celled spores). Conidia generally are not airborne, but the fungus can become airborne in bits of infected plant debris, in dust, or in splashing water.
Again, it looks like this is more easily controlled in some scenarios than others.Fusarium wilts are favored by high air and soil temperatures (75° to 86°F) and disease may not occur at low soil temperatures (below 68°F). An infected plant may remain symptomless at lower temperatures. The fungus can be spread through the use of infected cuttings or other forms of vegetative propagation taken from healthy appearing but infected plants.
?? pH and NO3 management, hints at management/husbandry practices, no?Liming soils and using nitrate nitrogen fertilizer have been effective for management of Fusarium oxysporum on chrysanthemum, aster, gladiolus, cucumber, tomato, and watermelon.
E20 was never a magic bullet. A few years ago I started a thread on the issue of resistance due to E20.(Eagle 20 is no longer a magic bullet)
aloha guys
good to see another set of heads working to figure this thing out
hopefully we can find out with certainty what the problem is soon - then we can really fight it and at worst, learn to control it.
I wish you were right Aladeen. But, and this is just my opinion, clean sterile clones that are cuts of cuts of cuts of cuts of cuts of an infected plant are still ticking time bombs - they will blow up. Also, if cleanliness and sterility was really the answer, the issue would not be passed down thru seed progeny. But it is. Something that is passed down from generation to generation is a matter of heredity.
nice thread Grit
stay up homies!
View attachment 408169 View attachment 408170 View attachment 408171 View attachment 408174 View attachment 408176View attachment 408177View attachment 408180 View attachment 408184 what up out there I was able to get some pics of the cookie monster , really weird leaf twisting and mutating, also one pics of a twisted mutated branch, I took a few shots of the wifi mom that im sure is starting to through dud branches, its hard to tell but if you've grown wifi or an OG you no what the growth pattern is. I also found some crazy branches comming off a main branch where the branch is fowering, the stem itself is growing cylaxes off of it. Ill get those pics tonght when I finish up my clean up.
I've talked to a lot of people about this and many assure me that it can be grown out of it. As far as treating:
Glomus intradices
bascillus subtillis
azospirillum brasilianse
and
trichoderma
all cycled in at differnet times.......
all it takes is some google work here boys.
Fusarium and glomus intradices
fusarium and azospirillum brasilense
fusarium and bacillus subtilis
A Trial for Biological Control of a Pathogenic Fungus (Fusarium solani)
by Some Marine Microorganisms
fusarium and trichoderma
I talked with a homie today who has flowered over 1000 duds and he had the problem over 2 yrs ago. He said he cleaned shit up and threw away any and all cuts that showed symptoms.....new moms every 3-4 months....
Said that the problem almost always reared its head when clones went from cube to cup or cup to 1 gal.
They also had a much better time restoring the plants in their greenhouse and noted that it was harder to get a sizeable dud to come back but rather starting from fresh cuts and growing them out under the sun.
Correct....
it has been tested positive for fusarium oxysporum.
I don't have them in hand.....but yet again I will copy and repaste this.
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...ts-worse-here-everyday-fusarium-solani.51997/
and from the homie nug life who operates a dispo in our are and right next to where I work.
I sent a sample to the lab as well and tested positive for fusarium oxysporum. Yields had dropped 50% and it took me a couple years to figure out exactly what was causing this. Rarely have I had plants wilt, but the pathogen creates symptoms that resemble nitrogen toxicity with leaf curl, and magnesium deficiency with purple stems and odd looking growth. Fan leaves get small and more narrow, especially once more pk is added in flower. We are constantly cleaning everything with Physan 20, drenches with subdue maxx/heritage, using the root and foilar pack from Og Bio War, and this pathogen doesn't seem to go away. RH has to be 60%+ or plants will not perform at all. Touring many grows in Colorado I see all the signs of it. Feel that it will be a huge issue soon for many people. I can track the fusarium back to some cuts and feel it took 6-8 months before it started effecting me. Two years later and it's becoming difficult to produce a pound a light. When I start new genetics they perform 1-2 rounds and then become sick. Now I just need to figure out how to co-exist with it because it's at multiple locations and we take lots of precautions to avoid cross contamination.
@We Solidarity knows these people too as many in this industry do.
So you yourself haven't actually grown duds out of their dud condition?
Again, Ill wait for others test results as I had none of those problems in my full on duds in flowers. None of the twisting, leaf mutation, toxicity, yada yada. Yield didn't drop per say- it was just worthless. If you count the loss due to duds then sure maybe thats the loss, but not in physical size. Fan leaf size did not change in flower either and there was no PK added....doesn't sound like what I've dealt with at all. And I've definitely had dud branches and dud plants much like delae posted. Besides the mini plants in veg- are all those symptoms what you are experiencing? Or are they like Delaes pix- full on buds with fucked/lack of trich and no smell?
check your pH IMO, and what's your RH? The purple in the cookies will leaf twist with a high pH watering.View attachment 408169 View attachment 408170 View attachment 408171 View attachment 408174 View attachment 408176View attachment 408177View attachment 408180 View attachment 408184 what up out there I was able to get some pics of the cookie monster , really weird leaf twisting and mutating, also one pics of a twisted mutated branch, I took a few shots of the wifi mom that im sure is starting to through dud branches, its hard to tell but if you've grown wifi or an OG you no what the growth pattern is. I also found some crazy branches comming off a main branch where the branch is fowering, the stem itself is growing cylaxes off of it. Ill get those pics tonght when I finish up my clean up.
Correct....
it has been tested positive for fusarium oxysporum.
I don't have them in hand.....but yet again I will copy and repaste this.
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community...ts-worse-here-everyday-fusarium-solani.51997/
i had my testing done at my local agricultural extension office. not sure that this is necessarily an option for everyone since, technically, extension office labs aren't supposed to test cannabis (due to USDA federal funding guidelines), but i figured it was worth a try and submitted a plant labeled as tomato and it worked out fine. you will need to take in (or maybe you could overnight mail it) a plant sample consisting of the roots and the base of the crown (the very bottom of the stem/trunk) so you will have to kill a plant to get the sample. just ask them for a "plant diagnostic analysis" with a "fungal/bacterial culture" -- it costs about $20 and they will call you with the results after a couple days. if the extension office is not an option or there isn't one close by, any lab with plant/water/soil diagnostics should do, just look for one nearby (or make sure you can overnight to them) since they will need a fairly fresh sample.
-inuyasha
someone with duds should throw some pollen on a dud and grow out the progeny to see what happens.
In light of this issue it seems to me that the practice of soaking all your seeds together in a cup of water to start germination is a bad idea. If the fusarium is on the hull or shell of a particular seed the water soak could just spread it to them all.We haven't been treating our seeds, but given this, it would be an easy enough precaution to take. :) I'm glad you posted that stuff.
Is it duding, or dudding? Duding kinda means something different to me and it involves a hat.
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