caregiverken
Fear Not!
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sounds like you have russets:(Dealing with this pest right now. The preflower sites, and nodes turn a grey brow on affected areas? With leave curling and yellowing with the petiols getting covered with maroon(ish) spots?anyone tried a soil drench with azamax ? My sprayer(s) are in the shop. Fucked by the timing.
for me, yes met52 and I also still have and will use takedown from monterey. But that is just pyrethrin.So Met52 is your guys go to right now? About to order some up. I just read both of your guys threads. I think I may be dealing with a similar issue, in a similar area. Appreciate you both taking the time to post. Noticed a few earlier flowering plants with almost all dead stigmas. One had some slight leaf cupping. Working with a cheap 100x handheld scope I'm not having any luck actually id-ing them though. Maybe time to upgrade that...
I never mentioned it in my thread or anywhere else yetYa, I first tried usuing a regular 30x jewlers loop, no way. Saw your video, and at 400x they are still tiny. Used the 100x a bunch today and still not a definite id, but I got a feeling. Ordering the Met52.
Thanks for a quick response. Been spraying a rotation of azatrol and Bt along with an essential oil spray I just started. I also recently used aloe vera 200x for that salycilic acid and that SAR response. I just let my girls get too thirsty trying to conserve water, and made them weak I'm thinking.
any links to share? @Joshy
no problem, and thanks for the reply!Sorry SunGrown, my comment was made about the article in the first post and in general. Unfortunately, I have no other papers on the topic.
no problem, and thanks for the reply!
I think the DE is most beneficial when used to treat the cracks and different hiding places but have heard success stories when used in veg, when they're small (mine are). I just sprayed with Azamax and EZ Wet and then coated my room with DE, need a dustin mizer or sifter to be more thorough.@GR33NL3AF yes i tried the dia-earth but was too impatient they weren't dying and some of my plants are 8 foot+ coating them in DE wouldn't have looked good or been beneficial to the ladies but i could be wrong! i do dust the insides with the ingenious tool i found on amazon but I feel D.E. is more of a preventive as a "killer" of existing mites. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003UGX742/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
All good advice and the hydro store makes $$ on what they sell.There's an epidemic of these guys and broad mites in our community (Sierra Foothills) right now. The local grow shop reports 1 out of 3 of their customers has an infestation. This particular shop tends towards organics and they are recommending foliar sulphur to everyone. They say 9 out of 10 are having success. I just started last night.
We have the russets, only on our clones, not on the seed plants (all are outdoor). I was able to see the critters with a 30x loop, though I have really good eyesight and they were just barely visible. I picked up a 100x scope yesterday and was able to positively ID them as russets.
I misted with sulphur last night for the first time and every mite I looked at afterwards was dead (or at least not moving...). This morning, 95% were not moving, but a couple strays here and there were alive and ambling.
Here's a copy of my conversation with the helpful people at the grow store:
I researched broad mites in the forums, found some more "natural" things that people had reported good results with and am wondering, Do you have any experience with any of these?
http://bioworksinc.com/products/suffoil-x.php
http://bigtimezyme.com/html/bigtimeexterminator.html
I read on a forum something like "I'd never smoke anything I sprayed with sulphur..."
Here's the reply:
So there are lots of attractive designer type products that claim to kill mites. Some actually work. I am not family with the above three, but I do have some ideas.
The first one is rosemary oil and geranium oil, both awesome killers of insects. Plant some in the garden with pyrethrum for next year and some german chamomile which seems to repel mildew. There are products sold in town here that have those ingredients, the SNS line has them.
Suffocating oil. Just like headlice mites do not like oil. The most effective are mineral oil (yuch), Canola, coconut, sesame and fish oil. Adding things like rosemary, lavender, coriander, eucalyptus, basil, cinnamon, all help, kill and or repel. SM90 is one like that, organicide is another. Adding cocowet to any spray helps a lot, as does adding yucca or molasses (which plants love).
There are also biological that help. Met 52, Swirski predatory mite, predatory nematodes, a thrips predator cucamaris?, lacewings, mantis', and thriple threat-which has three predatory mites-only one the californica one-works on russets.
Despite all this, Sulfur has by far been the most effective for folks. Especially when one adds yucca or cocowet with it. Be sure NOT to add an oil. Lime can also help.
I've been reading about the DE, but now I can't remember where (I thought it was here on the farm). IIRC, broads are most prevalent at the new growth/growing tips, and IIRC 60x won't be strong enough, I think you need something like 100x to see them.I noticed some tell tale signs of Broads/Russet recently and tried spotting them with a 60x, I did notice a couple two-spotted mites but couldn't accurately identify any broads. Where would Broads primarily colonize?
In any case, these are new plants meant for my new room and I will be treating with the same remedies my co-workers have used to rid themselves of Broads/Russet Mites in the past. It's as follows:
EZ Wet (Sugar Detergent/Wetting Agent)
Azamax
Stylet Oil
And I think the big missing piece of the puzzle, which I haven't heard anyone discuss yet is Diatomaceous Earth. Which is a fine dust that is meant to be sifted over your plants and the surrounding area. The particles in the dust rip open ALL soft bodied insects when they come in contact with it and it is completely harmless to humans. I plan to dust my room top to bottom after every spray.
Just before I flip I will give them a single dose of Forbid and then when in flower continue using EZ Wet, Stylet Oil and throw in some Mega Wash(Mighty Wash).
I will keep you farmer's posted of my progress.
We've already reverse engineered a couple of SNS products, the biggest problems were figuring out which order to add and mix ingredients because emulsification is the trick. Bulk rosemary oil can get a bit spendy, but I think it's worth it. The other stuff is stupid cheap, but a big bottle of organic rosemary oil cost me about $80, IIRC.
I've been reading about the DE, but now I can't remember where (I thought it was here on the farm). IIRC, broads are most prevalent at the new growth/growing tips, and IIRC 60x won't be strong enough, I think you need something like 100x to see them.
Don't leave out the vegetable (castile) soap in your mix. It's not just a good adjuvant, it helps remove the waxy coating on many soft-bodied insects, again IIRC. You don't have to use a liquid castile, you can also take a hard bar of soap and simply take a vegetable peeler and shave off the soap. When I do that I don't really measure as accurately as I do when I'm measuring out liquid soap, I just approximate the same amounts. So, if for example a treatment recipe says to use 2T/gal, I'll shave off what looks like 2T. Make sense?
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