Everytime I turn my light up, I get the yellow brick road....

[HomegrownOhighO]

PH what is going in. Id check the ppm of what is coming out, even organics it can build up too much. It never hurts to see the ph that is coming out. But I wouldn’t stress over that too much regardless the number. A lot people that have limestone or gypsum or another buffer in soil and nutrients believe it’s not necessary and don’t worry about their ph. However it can still be too low or high which is what causes those lockout issues when ph is under 5.5 or over 7. Also if you use silica and add it in the wrong order you can cause a nutrient deficiency that way.

Again, you are so far along none of this really matters in your situation and really your plant really looks nice especially with everything it’s thrown at you. But could do those checks and see what they say and just take it as a learning opportunity. Everything is likely in range but always a good idea to check it every now and then

I do use silica too

 

[HomegrownOhighO]

some plants just dont want more light, are you using an app to check ppfd? where you are at in your grow is normally when i start turning down the light. How often are you hitting it with teas/microbes? maybe the gaia is being broken down fast enough for the plants to keep up with the increased light

Photoplus, recharge, silica, calmag, and a terp enhancer from tps nutrients. Those are my main amendments. Also, I do use the photone app.

 

[RGWD0202]

Photoplus, recharge, silica, calmag, and a terp enhancer from tps nutrients. Those are my main amendments. Also, I do use the photone app.

In what order do you typically mix the nutrients?

 

[HomegrownOhighO]

PH what is going in. Id check the ppm of what is coming out, even organics it can build up too much. It never hurts to see the ph that is coming out. But I wouldn’t stress over that too much regardless the number. A lot people that have limestone or gypsum or another buffer in soil and nutrients believe it’s not necessary and don’t worry about their ph. However it can still be too low or high which is what causes those lockout issues when ph is under 5.5 or over 7. Also if you use silica and add it in the wrong order you can cause a nutrient deficiency that way.

Again, you are so far along none of this really matters in your situation and really your plant really looks nice especially with everything it’s thrown at you. But could do those checks and see what they say and just take it as a learning opportunity. Everything is likely in range but always a good idea to check it every now and then

I also don't typically water to run off. Someone told me it's not good to do that on an organic grow. I've been water 1/4-1/2 gallon every 3-4 days.

 

[HomegrownOhighO]

In what order do you typically mix the nutrients?

So I usually do my calmag first, give it a good shake, wait about 15 min, check pH, pH with pH down, then I add my photoplus and recharge last. Also, if I do add terp enhancer, I do it prior to pHing.

 

[RGWD0202]

So I usually do my calmag first, give it a good shake, wait about 15 min, check pH, pH with pH down, then I add my photoplus and recharge last. Also, if I do add terp enhancer, I do it prior to pHing.

Make sure you add silica first, if binds with calmag and locks both of those out and I think causes other lockout issues as well when added after calmag. The science is a little confusing I honestly don’t fully understand the chemistry behind why order matters, someone explained it, I tried to research it and I still wrap my head around it.

Next time you use silica, add the silica first mix it really well and allow it to disolve, like 30 minutes to an hour before your calmag. I believe the order is silica, calmag, base, and then the rest of the nutrients you would use.

The purple petioles and the yellowing in the middle of the plant before the bottom tells me it’s mag deficiency.

 

[HomegrownOhighO]

Make sure you add silica first, if binds with calmag and locks both of those out and I think causes other lockout issues as well when added after calmag. The science is a little confusing I honestly don’t fully understand the chemistry behind why order matters, someone explained it, I tried to research it and I still wrap my head around it.

Next time you use silica, add the silica first mix it really well and allow it to disolve, like 30 minutes to an hour before your calmag. I believe the order is silica, calmag, base, and then the rest of the nutrients you would use.

The purple petioles and the yellowing in the middle of the plant before the bottom tells me it’s mag deficiency.

Well I just checked the trichomes too and it's maybe 5 % are amber but majority are still clear. In my head, I told myself 10 weeks at the minimum before the chop. Thanks, that explains sort of why I have had lockout issues this whole time. You sure can't beat experience.

 

[Captspaulding]

Well, also if you keep getting put on the yellow brick road all the time when you turn up your light, do it gradually over a 2-3 week period to let the plant harden off to the light slowly. Your plant is fading. But mag is being pulled too.
I’ve finished runs at just 50% output at 2ft above canopy, it’s not always about trying to squeeze your plants all grow. Some strains want to be babied. You start fading heavy, on the yellow brick road, this will help.

 

[RGWD0202]

Well I just checked the trichomes too and it's maybe 5 % are amber but majority are still clear. In my head, I told myself 10 weeks at the minimum before the chop. Thanks, that explains sort of why I have had lockout issues this whole time. You sure can't beat experience.

No not at all, every grow I hope to learn something. Hopefully this helps you, I was doing the same thing and after speaking with some very knowledgeable growers I learned the silica was causing serious issues because I was adding it in the wrong order.

What percentage of amber are you looking for?

 

[LoveGrowingIt]

It looks like this is an organic grow, so pH isn't as important as it would be otherwise. So, there probably isn't a need to change the pH of the water.

Calcium and magnesium are antagonistic with each other. That means too much of one can inhibit the uptake of the other. Commercial calmag products should account for that, but they can't account for what's already in the soil or the water. So, if it looks like a plant needs magnesium, for example, then adding calmag might not be the best thing to do if there's already an excess of calcium inhibiting the uptake of magnesium.