Experience running RO/DI water in grow?

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yetiman5150

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I have been using the Reverse osmosis/de-ionized water in my grow for a couple of years. I have to use the di-ionization as I have a large saltwater reef aquarium. My water always reads at zero TDS. Am I potentially removing too many of the natural elements in my water?

I obviously supplement quite a bit of cal/mag, but wondering what else I may be missing in the equation. My grows have been decent, but there is plenty of room for improvement.

Any ideas?

Either way, glad i was referred to this network, I've learned more reading here than years of word of mouth.
 
sixstring

sixstring

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If your using a good nutrient line your plants should be getting everything they need. It's nice knowing what is in there ;)
 
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yetiman5150

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Thanks. I am Using Nutri-Plus in coco at about 40% strength and supplementing with Cal/Mag and hygrozyme, PPMs about 1100. Seems to be working well since i reduced the mix strength.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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I have been using the Reverse osmosis/de-ionized water in my grow for a couple of years. I have to use the di-ionization as I have a large saltwater reef aquarium. My water always reads at zero TDS. Am I potentially removing too many of the natural elements in my water?

I obviously supplement quite a bit of cal/mag, but wondering what else I may be missing in the equation. My grows have been decent, but there is plenty of room for improvement.

Any ideas?

Either way, glad i was referred to this network, I've learned more reading here than years of word of mouth.
I use an RO/DI unit, and yes, you have to add back the minerals. The main issue is pH stability. You may be removing many things from the water but nothing that can't be added back fairly easily, especially those carbonates.

I used to work the trade, btw. (Ornamental aquatics) I'd love to see your tank. :)
 
og dmc

og dmc

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Sea Maiden, Do you add any tap water to your treated water? I have been told that you should add a small amount of tap water to act as a buffer. Personally, I have sdded as much as 1/4 tap to the RO water, and I have sued straight RO water with really good results. But i do use allot less PH up when I add tap. Other than that I cant tell any real difference.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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Oh, you'd better believe it! I also save as much rain water as I can so I don't have to use the RO/DI. I measure EC and if it's really low, and especially if I'm using a feed that drives pH down, I'll add some of my unfiltered (landscape) well water to bring up alkalinity and thus, help stabilize pH a wee bit. It's when I use straight well water with indoor growing that I have problems. Outside never had a problem, only ever use the unfiltered well water. But then, I don't really 'feed' my outdoor plants except when I'm preparing the beds and planters, otherwise it's occasional teas and top-dressings, a few foliars as I feel are necessary and I do as little as I can other than that. I like using the sea salts (Sea-90), but that's another thing entirely.
 
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yetiman5150

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Thank you for the great input. I certainly did have pH stability issues when I was running DWC. I'll try that, assuming I should put an air stone in the tap water and let sit to evaporate everything added in the municipal water system?
 
woodsmaneh

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and I'll toss in this little bit of info on RO water

Peace all

How to buffer reverse osmosis water

Here is a great tip for those who use reverse osmosis water, to buffer your water and help stabilize pH. There are two ways, both efficient.

- For those who prefer simplicity, all you have to do is add 20% tap water to your reverse osmosis water.

- For the purists who do not want to use tap water, or whose water is particularly bad, here are two easy steps:

1 – First increase your pH up to 10.0 with pH Up or potassium carbonate
2 – Then bring it down to 6.0 with pH Down

In both cases you’ll obtain water well adapted to hydroponic nutritive solutions, while avoiding untimely pH fluctuations.

You need to raise pH first because the “buffer” elements have a very high pH or very low pH. You can start by adding acid, but then you will need pH up to raise your pH.
You need to buffer R.O. water simply because pure water has no buffering capacity. It is subject to big swings in pH every time you add something to the solution, making it unsuited for cultivation. Using pure R.O. is a classic source of failure.



If you’re using reverse osmosis water, add 50-100 ppm of Cal/Mg; this helps to buffer your water so nutrients absorb better.


What happens is that the basic/alkaline components (mainly calcium) that are responsible for the high PH (as in 7.3 or 7.6) also buffer it together with the more neutral components. As soon as you add SOME acid, the basic elements neutralize it in 24 hours, but loose some potency, respectively get eliminated partially within the "reaction". If you repeat that process, the alkaline components- and their buffer capacity get lower and lower until the alkaline buffer is "gone". The "last" time you add ph-down/acid to your water, it will drop drastically to perhaps under 5. This mostly happens when a week PH down is used repeatedly. With Nitric acid at 75 or 95 %, this will not happen; it will get the alkaline elements down in one shot. But that is the stuff that burns through concrete floors like alien blood and it's truly not everyone's cup of tea.

PH of boiled water of 8.4 after 13 hours of boiling is "normal" because you evaporate lots of water, while calcium and other alkaline elements (already responsible for the high pH) remain in the water and hence will be present in higher concentration and push up the pH. There may also be some chemical reaction and transformation within these 13 hours of boiling, I don't know of.

Nutrients generally lower and buffer a certain pH, that's what any mineral composition with an acidic sum, added and dissolved in water does anyway. NUTRIENTS are actually made to lower the PH, as the usual 7+ is not suited. The only difference is that some manufacturers point this out explicitly while others don't. Some manufacturers may indeed add some more of specific components like mono potassium phosphate that helps lowering and buffering such Ph, but that's pretty much it. As a side effect (when running higher EC) you may have excessive Phosphorus that will result in Ca deficiency.

But in this context it is important to know that a higher nutrient concentration will lower the pH more than a weaker ratio. Hence in some cases it's not a bad idea to simply (slightly) increase the nutrient concentration by a click or two. It's also a reason why some manufacturers recommend higher concentrations as needed, and some commercial growers push the nutrient concentration higher.

If the PH of the base water is too high, most nutrients can't bring it down to around 6 and that's (only) where pH down- as in acids or other components are required. In ANY case it is always best to have, use or get water that is around and not (much) over 7.

RO water is fine, but take care what nutrients you use, as with some extra acidic nutrients (many are developed with areas in mind that have an excessive amount of calcium carbonate in the (well)water) you may end up with an unwanted but extraordinary low PH as well.

Attention, Ph and EC are interconnected; EC reading of a nutrient solution will not be the same at PH 5.0 as it is at 7.0!


and this for all who finished reading ^^^^

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yetiman5150

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NIce. Sounds a lot like what we have to do in the aquarium, but most use extremely high dollar pH buffer solutions or a calcium reactor. Not saying that all the chemistry makes sense, but it makes sense, lol.
 
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yetiman5150

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The semi-related other question here is in regards to moving the nutrient solution up a "click or two." I know that if i feed a full strength nutrient regimen from Nutri-Plus, the ppm is at nearly 2100 on the 700 scale, and had caused tip burn and in my opinion locked them out temporarily. I know there are several variables at play here, not just the nutrient strength, and feel that I all too often misdiagnose issues. The plants are happier at around 1100 without a doubt, but appear a a bit paler green in color. I'm wondering if I am possibly seeing a slight deficiency now? A work in progress, and striving for improvement every day, all I can do.
 
Seamaiden

Seamaiden

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Yetiman, this is where photos in good light can help us help you. Whole plant as well as closeups of the problems being observed.
Thank you for the great input. I certainly did have pH stability issues when I was running DWC. I'll try that, assuming I should put an air stone in the tap water and let sit to evaporate everything added in the municipal water system?
That's if you can simply evaporate what's put in the system. There are a few things to be cognizant of. For one, pipes--they corrode, so water treatment facilities will add buffers to keep the pH stabilized upward. Chlorine can also do this, as can chloramine--these are the two primary antimicrobial products used in municipal water supplies. One can be aerated off (chlorine), one cannot (chloramine). That means you may have to use something to break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia. IIRC, citric acid works for this. I'm a fish-thing and we tend to use stuff like sodium thiosulfate.

Woodsman, I discovered my water has temporary hardness, the hardness level can be reduced by a full 40% just by boiling. Thing is, for tens of gallons it's not very efficient. Then you have to separate the mulm from the rest of the water, or the whole thing was just an exercise. Good reading, btw, thanks for posting that up. :)
 
woodsmaneh

woodsmaneh

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Yetiman, this is where photos in good light can help us help you. Whole plant as well as closeups of the problems being observed.

That's if you can simply evaporate what's put in the system. There are a few things to be cognizant of. For one, pipes--they corrode, so water treatment facilities will add buffers to keep the pH stabilized upward. Chlorine can also do this, as can chloramine--these are the two primary antimicrobial products used in municipal water supplies. One can be aerated off (chlorine), one cannot (chloramine). That means you may have to use something to break the bond between the chlorine and ammonia. IIRC, citric acid works for this. I'm a fish-thing and we tend to use stuff like sodium thiosulfate.

Woodsman, I discovered my water has temporary hardness, the hardness level can be reduced by a full 40% just by boiling. Thing is, for tens of gallons it's not very efficient. Then you have to separate the mulm from the rest of the water, or the whole thing was just an exercise. Good reading, btw, thanks for posting that up. :)

My RO system tales care of everything in the water for me, so I start from about 4ppm and than condition for a day than add food and let it sit for a day then check all readings than into the system.

I live in the country and am on a well and every season my ppm's change so I just RO it.
 

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