When I got them last year I was pissed off when someone said to burn them, but wasted a year and lost 2 grand in top shelf genetics. Would have been best off taking clones and submerging them everyday for a month while bug bombing the rooms every 4 days. If you have plants in various stages of life, they can keep popping up over and over. Good luck. PS dunking at this point and/or spraying a lot will cause mold.

You guys, I've been growing for 26 years and I have never seen anything like this. It's like there is something else. Something invisible. The damage is occurring so fast that it can't just be spider mites. But I scope and scope and scope some more, and all I find are spider mites. And massive damage. Damage that comes on so fast that it can take down a totally healthy plant in a matter of days.

What happens if you pop off pyrethrin bombs in your flower room?

I have plants that I found 2 or 3 mites on a couple days ago, that are now dying. I will post pics when the lights go on again tomorrow

F.Dupp said:

I have plants that I found 2 or 3 mites on a couple days ago, that are now dying. I will post pics when the lights go on again tomorrow

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Something so severe like that with spider mites seems strange really, I mean they fuck things up really bad but they aren't that fast acting. Did you checked for russet and/or broadmites?

Any close ups photos of the damage ?

F.Dupp said:

You guys, I've been growing for 26 years and I have never seen anything like this. It's like there is something else. Something invisible. The damage is occurring so fast that it can't just be spider mites. But I scope and scope and scope some more, and all I find are spider mites. And massive damage. Damage that comes on so fast that it can take down a totally healthy plant in a matter of days.

What happens if you pop off pyrethrin bombs in your flower room?

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I'm 100% against spraying anything in flower, if they are 7 of 9 weeks flowering I would just bubble bag everything fresh frozen, or send to a lab to destilate it for you if you are in a legal state and sell it for cartridge makers to cut the losses.

Than bomb the shit out of everything with pure bleach no dilution and let it liquefy the mofos for 30-60 minutes, apply in proper protection gear and full head mask with proper filtration rated for chlorine gases, and a pesticide 20L backpack sprayer, than clean/wash everything in the grow before new flowering.

On Tuesday I found one mite on this plant. Now it's dying from the bottom up

Is there spider mite damage on those dying leaves? I agree that it looks like there's something invisible, like maybe the mites are spreading a disease. That's a wild-ass guess, of course, but I didn't notice my plants with spider mites doing that.

Zatoichi said:

Have heard someone say isopropyl and water 50/50 but test first. Should dissipate rapidly. Might want t take lower bud off and test then check with microscope.

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I used a 3:1 water to isopropyl alcohol solution. Water alone can knock mites off leaves, and that's one of the recommended remedies. I didn't notice any problems using an alcohol solution and it's easy to mix and store. I haven't noticed the plants having any problems with it.

LoveGrowingIt said:

Is there spider mite damage on those dying leaves? I agree that it looks like there's something invisible, like maybe the mites are spreading a disease. That's a wild-ass guess, of course, but I didn't notice my plants with spider mites doing that.

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When I brought up the fact that dude sent me bugs on discord, I started getting messages from other people he sent bugs to. They said that even after they beat the spider mites, some phantom menace persisted, until they had to shut down and start over. I hoping that's not the case, or it's 4 months of work down the drain. And all of my genetics will be lost...

I just bought a case of hardcore pyrethrin bombs on Amazon. But they won't be here for a week. So I'm gonna pop off some shitty ones from the hardware store in the meantime. Whether or not I have to do a hard reset, I am going to kill these nasty MFers. They need a painful death

LoveGrowingIt said:

I used a 3:1 water to isopropyl alcohol solution. Water alone can knock mites off leaves, and that's one of the recommended remedies. I didn't notice any problems using an alcohol solution and it's easy to mix and store. I haven't noticed the plants having any problems with it.

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I'm afraid my plants are packed together too tightly for sprays to be fully effective. I need fog. Thick, toxic fog that chokes these f**kers to death.

After seeing the pictures of your grow rooms, I have a much better understanding of what you're dealing with. I sure hope this works out okay for you. Best of luck to you.

LoveGrowingIt said:

After seeing the pictures of your grow rooms, I have a much better understanding of what you're dealing with. I sure hope this works out okay for you. Best of luck to you.

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Thank you. I'm prolly gonna need it

I just bought a fog machine. That'll help

LoveGrowingIt said:

I do too! I'm dealing with them now. I started spraying with AgroMagen GrowSafe Bio-Pesticide. Last night was the first application. I killed most of them with hydrogen peroxide and isopropyl alcohol, but I couldn't get them all. I also cut off and destroyed leaves where I saw signs of the mites. I raised the humidity, too. I'm hoping the GrowSafe will finish the job.

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^^^^ This

This stuff works so well I have been telling everyone about it for a long time, now. I feel only a few people have taken me up on my advice but it works! I promise it works! I had a friend spraying everything from AzaMax to Eagle 20 on his buds fighting both red and 2 spotted spider mites that would NOT die! I came over and sprayed the AgroMagen stuff one time and his jaw about hit the floor the next morning when he noticed 97% of the mites were dead already. It kills eggs, too! A well applied spray of this stuff is pretty much 1 and done, 2 or 3 sprays to be extra safe. AND it's Organic/OMRI listed.

Edit to add - check it out! It's worth every penny. It can also be used at all stages of growth from clone/seed through harvest. Won't burn your plants like neem, won't kill honeybees, but does a VERY good job at getting rid of spider mites, aphids, WPM, just about every pest you will encounter while growing cannabis.

Deadstill said:

^^^^ This

This stuff works so well I have been telling everyone about it for a long time, now. I feel only a few people have taken me up on my advice but it works! I promise it works! I had a friend spraying everything from AzaMax to Eagle 20 on his buds fighting both red and 2 spotted spider mites that would NOT die! I came over and sprayed the AgroMagen stuff one time and his jaw about hit the floor the next morning when he noticed 97% of the mites were dead already. It kills eggs, too! A well applied spray of this stuff is pretty much 1 and done, 2 or 3 sprays to be extra safe. AND it's Organic/OMRI listed.

Edit to add - check it out! It's worth every penny. It can also be used at all stages of growth from clone/seed through harvest. Won't burn your plants like neem, won't kill honeybees, but does a VERY good job at getting rid of spider mites, aphids, WPM, just about every pest you will encounter while growing cannabis.

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Are you affiliated with AgroMagen?

F.Dupp said:

You guys, I've been growing for 26 years and I have never seen anything like this. It's like there is something else. Something invisible. The damage is occurring so fast that it can't just be spider mites. But I scope and scope and scope some more, and all I find are spider mites. And massive damage. Damage that comes on so fast that it can take down a totally healthy plant in a matter of days.

What happens if you pop off pyrethrin bombs in your flower room?

Click to expand...

Could you also have broad mites?? They are much smaller and hatch in the leaves. Is the flower lacking smell?? Look at half life of any chemicals you use and see if OK for cannabis and/or tobacco. If safe for produce not necessarily safe for smoke.

Deadstill said:

^^^^ This

This stuff works so well I have been telling everyone about it for a long time, now. I feel only a few people have taken me up on my advice but it works! I promise it works! I had a friend spraying everything from AzaMax to Eagle 20 on his buds fighting both red and 2 spotted spider mites that would NOT die! I came over and sprayed the AgroMagen stuff one time and his jaw about hit the floor the next morning when he noticed 97% of the mites were dead already. It kills eggs, too! A well applied spray of this stuff is pretty much 1 and done, 2 or 3 sprays to be extra safe. AND it's Organic/OMRI listed.

Edit to add - check it out! It's worth every penny. It can also be used at all stages of growth from clone/seed through harvest. Won't burn your plants like neem, won't kill honeybees, but does a VERY good job at getting rid of spider mites, aphids, WPM, just about every pest you will encounter while growing cannabis.

Click to expand...

Eagle 20 is fungicide with 245 day half life and banned in many states for cannabis - https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Myclobutanil

F.Dupp said:

When I brought up the fact that dude sent me bugs on discord, I started getting messages from other people he sent bugs to. They said that even after they beat the spider mites, some phantom menace persisted, until they had to shut down and start over. I hoping that's not the case, or it's 4 months of work down the drain. And all of my genetics will be lost...

I just bought a case of hardcore pyrethrin bombs on Amazon. But they won't be here for a week. So I'm gonna pop off some shitty ones from the hardware store in the meantime. Whether or not I have to do a hard reset, I am going to kill these nasty MFers. They need a painful death

Click to expand...

Research half life of any chemicals used.

If dying from bottom up could be pythium, fusarium, botrytis. If any of those, every plant has it from hydroponic solution. I bought clones from 2 vendors recently and both arrived on verge of death from stem canker, caused by one of those. Tumi genomics has cheap tests for molds and HLVD, The mother test kit may be best for you. One problem is must buy ten items. This is from my name stitch guide to plant problems which can be found as sticky in infirmary forum on icmag, which also discusses broad mites -

Stem Canker (Stem Rot)

Stem cankers are what the name is, they form on stems from a fungus similar to white and yellow leaf spot. Weather can affect the way stem cankers can live; wet humid weather is what makes this fungus thrive. Canker fungus is caused and entered the same white and leaf spot fungus enters the plants, it enters through an open cut, wound, pruned wound, or pest infestation that has caused damage by eating leaves or chewing on the stem’s or stalks and can be transferred through rain. It can also get in through susceptible plants that have been wounded through environmental factors like animal attacks, pruning, LST (Low Stress Training), and using cutting utensils that are not sanitary that may have fungus or bacteria on them. Damage to the plant occurs in the form of a yellowish-brown discoloration on the lower portion of the stalk. Later, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the plant dries out and dies.They form mostly on the stems, but severe cases spotting starts to form on the leaves from internal tissue being cut of nutrients and water. In between nodes is where stem cankers start to form, and move up the plant, around the 3rd, 4th and 5th node is where it will mainly affects the plants. Stems will have brown lesions; eventually have a dark reddish-brown sunken canker in the stem. Sometimes if severe the wound may reopen and appear split in the middle of the area of the wound on the stem and can also create a buldge. The lesions can extend up the plant over 3 or 4 nodes, once this happens the plant starts to wilt from vascular uptake being cut. This gets confused with root rot when the plant starts to wilt, and leaves turn yellowish brown and or spots, because the stem canker does not show itself yet once this starts to happen. Once the stem canker has been observed and if not treated, the leaves will start to wilt with yellow, white and brown spots, similar to white and yellow leaf spot. When plants are affected by this, the plant is more susceptible to more fungus and viral infections, from air borne spores.


Prevent and Control

Preventing stem cankers is about the same way other fungus problems, making sure you treat wounds to your plant with H202, making sure your plants are free of pest’s and if you use tools to LST (low stress training) your plants pruning, and training, make sure all tools are sterilized before and after using them. Spraying your plant with fungicides in the months or times this fungus spreads. It’s very important that you catch this fungus before it gets to bad, once the damage has been done to the plant; the only way to get rid of this is to chop the plant down and treat the area that has been infected. Planting other plants near and or around this area can and will re-affect other plants when a new season starts.
Once your plant does have this, using fungicides until it is gone is crucial; if the canker has worsened foliar feeding is a must to help keep the plants vigor, strength and stamina in fighting the fungus. Stem cankers take over by slowly reducing the plants uptake and thus takes over the susceptibility of the plant and the fungus then takes over and worsens more quickly. Using anyone of these products will help control or eliminate stem cankers. (If the plant is to bad, nothing can save it and the plant must be cut down and tools sanitized to stop the spread of the fungus.) (Note: When using chemical and or organic control methods, do not spray the buds, and for health and safety reasons, stay away from spraying around the buds if all possible.)


Physan 20
TR-11000 Pyrethrum
Garden Disease Control
Multi Purpose Fungicide
Top Spin

Safer's Garden Fungicide
Concern Copper Soap Fungicide
Guardian Angel
Serenade Garden Disease Control OMRI
Safer 3-in1 Garden Spray OMRI
Sulfur Vaporizer
Organocide
SM-90
Any fungicide containing lime sulphur
Concern Copper Soap Fungicide

Go on Amazon.

Zatoichi said:

Could you also have broad mites?? They are much smaller and hatch in the leaves. Is the flower lacking smell?? Look at half life of any chemicals you use and see if OK for cannabis and/or tobacco. If safe for produce not necessarily safe for smoke.

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I'm thinking that it is broad mites. I'm sending some leaf samples in to an entomologist to confirm.

DO NOT EVER BUY CLONES ON DISCORD FROM A DUDE NAMED PNWSTRAINHUNTER, OR A DUDE NAMED AUDI. They both knowingly send you bugs. Audi is even a thief who will call you a liar and a scammer after he seems you thrips, aphids, and mites. All on one cut.

And I highly doubt that the cuts are even the strains he says they are.