Bib4tuna
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Strong grow blend 2tsp/A & 1tsp/B Mild Bloom blend 1tsp/A & 2tsp/B that’s per gallon. It’s a two part A & B systemDoes it say the doses of each? 5ml? 10ml?
I’m doing outdoor so there’s no flip. It’s a 3wk old clone. For my area where I live this is time when plants just start flowering outdoor.So I'd switch to mild bloom once you switch to 12/12
About 15 hrs of light in days right now.So I'd switch to mild bloom once you switch to 12/12
Oh shit you're outdoor I forgot. I'd keep doing veg nutrients until you get to 12/12About 15 hrs of light in days right now.
Ok so stick with strong bloom blend until days reach 12/12?Oh shit you're outdoor I forgot. I'd keep doing veg nutrients until you get to 12/12
Yes. I guess it really depends on the medium and how it holds nutrient. I grow in soil so I like to pre-load. You're right. Liquid fertilizer is much more available initially than organic matter that needs to go through the entire process of breakdown to the molecular level where the roots can effectively take up the nutrient but liquid fertilizer still needs to catabolize into the smaller molecules that make it available to the plant. Is it faster in uptake? Sure. It doesn't need to break down as much but there is still a process that it needs to go through before it can be absorbed. That's why you see companies like Advanced Nutrients chelate their products so that the ionic bonds are already in place for the plant to uptake.I'm of the opinion through lots of experience that plants need veg nutes until around 2 weeks into flowering or else your plants ends up yellowing really early. Usually start Blom nutes when they actually start budding(eek 2 or 3 of flower)
Your not growing organic so you don't need to pump in phosphorus before it needs it. With organics you have to feed it before it needs it so the soil can brake down the organics and make it available for the plants. With salt nutes your feeding it what your watering in as it availableto plant as your watering it in.
Early flower needs tons of N for the stretch, not lots of phosphorus.
I grow organically so maybe I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure you don't want to give your plants tons of phosphorus right at the start of flower( stretching first 3 weeks) as it need nitrogen in abundance at that stage. That's what I used to do when I used salt nutes, if I fed flower nutes at start of flower during stretch at 4 weeks your plants start yellowing.
Just my 2 cents
Well the op is using salt nutes I believe so I don't think he wants to up the phosphorus or hold it back from stretching since he's outside and his plant is rather small but i may be wrong. You may be right he might have enough N in that field he has planted in, it looks like lots of vegetation is growing in the field.Yes. I guess it really depends on the medium and how it holds nutrient. I grow in soil so I like to pre-load. You're right. Liquid fertilizer is much more available initially than organic matter that needs to go through the entire process of breakdown to the molecular level where the roots can effectively take up the nutrient but liquid fertilizer still needs to catabolize into the smaller molecules that make it available to the plant. Is it faster in uptake? Sure. It doesn't need to break down as much but there is still a process that it needs to go through before it can be absorbed. That's why you see companies like Advanced Nutrients chelate their products so that the ionic bonds are already in place for the plant to uptake.
Cultivar is also a factor when choosing how to effectively deploy your nutrient scheme. In my case, I'm growing a cultivar that matures within 8 - 10 weeks. This cultivar, GG4, because of its sativa lineage, naturally stretches in the flower process. By loading nitrogen into the flower stage I'm promoting more stretch which is what I'm trying to control. If I had a large grow room with high ceilings then I can see where continuing nitrogen input at that level would make sense but I'm limited in the space I have to work with. As flower approaches I typically up the PPM with a nitrogen rich solution before flip to keep enough nitrogen available to the plant. Along with the natural organic breakdown occurring at the same time I'm feeding there should be more than enough nitrogen in the soil to get the plant through its stretch phase while phosphorous is doing its thing in terms of flower formation. It's really a balancing and timing act where I'm trying to get enough nitrogen to the plant without promoting the characteristics that I want to control.
Essentially what I'm doing is lengthening the window where flower production is happening rather than more leaf and branch formation. High nitrogen in the soil when flip is in progress is going to slow that process down.
Of course, I could be totally wrong on ALL this and just burping out Broscience so if you have any links with empirical data that says otherwise I would love to review it.
True. I didn't take into account the location. I'm so used to most on here who grow in tents. I can see your logic on that end and it pretty much coincides with what I had posted previous about it depending on the different variables the plant is in.Well the op is using salt nutes I believe so I don't think he wants to up the phosphorus or hold it back from stretching since he's outside and his plant is rather small but i may be wrong. You may be right he might have enough N in that field he has planted in, it looks like lots of vegetation is growing in the field.
If I were him I would give it veg nutes till it started to actually show buds and stretch is almost over before he switches to higher phosphorus flowering mixture so he doesn't end up with super yellow plants 4 weeks into flowering
But that's just my opinion and opinions are like assholes everyone has one
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