Fermented Plant Extracts and making your own nutrient line

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Hashshashin

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hello everyone, i'm an active organic gardener and hate paying for nutrients unless their RAW INGREDIENTS. i think this is what makes organics great, the ability to use the natural sources from around us such as rocks, river silt, weeds, flowers and left over food. After learning from fellow members at ICmag i have become literally obssesed with different ways of making nutrients and supplements for your plants.

As some of you may know there is a such thing known as AACT or Actively Aerated Compost Tea. This is a way to encourage microlife to grow and take on your medium to encourage the break down of insoluble nutrients. Available nutrients are what are always listed on the label of nutrients so well take a look at sea kelp. Some people rate dry sea kelp as 0-0-2. However it has insoluble nutrients of about 3-6-6. In order to break down these water insoluble nutrients we need the microlife to consume them, like the phrase "feed the soil, not the plant". Now the reason i state this is because what we are making is NOT a compost tea. Dont call it one, because it is very incorrect.

Feremented Plant Extracts are easily made using lactobacillius cultures and help break down the plant extract with a lot less smell. For those of you who dont know Lactobacillus is great stuff for those stinky mixtures, not to mention just great for your organic medium in the first place. The reason FPE are different than AACT is that these plant extract are meant to make those insoluble nutrients into available nutrients via fermentation. You can store these FPE after being strained which can be held up to about a year i believe. You can use FPE instead of buying all these organic based not true organic line ups. By making certain types of FPE you are able to make a completle fertilizer regimine. All that is necessary for a good organic grow nutrient wise is fish and seaweed since they have such high inavailable nutrients.

Another way to make a FPE is just by putting your dry ingredients a water container shaking/stirring it up as often as you can for 2-4weeks than strain. This is how i make my Ascophyllum Nodosum liquid fertilizer and i think it works well. Making your own liquid fish is a great thing also and can be much better than storr bought fish emulsion. You gain the fat, proteins, vitamins, omega acids and calcium(if fish bones are included).

I'm not going to put any recipes on here until i see that there is an interest in doing so. If there is also an interest i will put up a thread about ascophyllum nodosum.

I'm sorry its very early in the morning and i have chronic back pain and had a terrible night. I wanted to finally get onto writing this just to see if theres an interest in this. Have a good morning everyone.

BTW- I am also known as Big ballin 88 on Icmag if i know any of you from there. Well see how this forum works out for me.
 
TheCoolestMan

TheCoolestMan

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Im glad u reached the farm BB! This will teach me a lot, im already in love with AN i have noticed huge diference in roots development, i was impress to say the less.

Also i started using it to root clones as u showed me, i mixed humic acid with and rootech hormone gel, since its my first time to clone i wanted to add more chance. Next i will use humic acid and AN only on some and see if it works that way. Can't wait to read more from u brother! Be safe...
 
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Hashshashin

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OH there is intrest, there is enough intrest from this guy right here, to count for several thousand growers, i love making fermented extracts to feed my plant, i would love some info, especially if we can keep it as technical/scientific as possible, i make mine with 4 large long airstones laid in the bottom of a 10 gallon tub, and i have a real nice powerful air pump that really pushes air through the water, i have many different things i put in my extract including GH Florablend, Bat guano (0-7-0, .5-.5.-1 i think), liquid karma, vermiblend, few other things, i would love some info on how your brew your solution, and what you use, there is a pretty good recipe thread on here already thats worth checkin out for sure,

This is one thing i should have mentioned. Using oxygen makes it an AACt not a FPE. The problem is we need the fermentation process due to alcohol and pH to change. This is what breaks down the insoluble nutrients. Granted thats a good AACt you can do wtihout the GH Florablend as excess sugars create bacterial blooms which is uncessary and can be a problem due to the population of bacteria intaking most or in the worst case all of the dissolved o2. As long as you have food sources for the fungi the life cycle will occur and different microorganisms will be produced over time.

I'll go over AACT a different time. This thread is all about Fermentation.

I will help you break the habit if interested so you can make your own liquid karma. I'll post that thread here next which is on Ascophyllum Nodosum. With few organic ingredients you can make a something that covers all the basics just like LK.
Since your interested i'll tell you how i make my AN FPE without LB. i only do this because at the time i didnt realize there was a water soluble powder already available. This way you'll get an idea how to make it though.

Ascophyllum Nodosum Extract

1. Take about a cup per gallon of powdered Ascophyllum Nodosum and molasses, in this case the bacterial bloom is beneficial since were trying to remove the o2 to create a fermentation.
2. Put powder in bottle and mix with water. Shake until mixed well. Leave cap loose and place somewhere you'll see it
3. Everyday shake/stir it as much as you can and than keep lid loose again.(Remember to tighten the lid if your gonna shake it!!)
4. Do this for 2-4 weeks you'll notice a creamy head layer to the solution when shaken. It will also be a nice light brown color and should smell sweet.
5. Once you can see that the life has ceased inside the solution(Lack of bubbles at top) you filter the solution so the original food source is drained.
6. You can put this in a bottle and store it up to a year, dilute it as necessary. I can't guarantee a nutritional analysis, but YOU CAN BURN PLANTS WITH THESE, so start low and work your way up. Maybe try it on some garden plants before you try your valuable crop. That is how FPE differ from AACT, they are nutrient extracts not microbial extracts.

Fish Fermentation- This is a FPE but is another fermented product. I think its the best you can get and works much better with Lactobacillus because i hate the smell while fermenting and lactobacillus takes good care of the smell. I'd suggest using papaya if you cant find LB, because it has enzymes that help break down the matter. It works well for FPE or Fish Hydroslate.

1. Grind down left fish you may have, the oilier the fish the better(salmon, mackerel, tuna; if they have bones in them thats even better). Grind this in a blender with until its a paste to make sure to speed up the process.
2. In a bucket fill with a carbon source half full such as sawdust. Mix water fish, molasses and humic acid.
3. Let this rot for a couple of weeks and stir as much as possible(once a day) until it has rotted.
4. You can add this straight to your compost/soil mix which is what i do. It adds pretty much all the good things you can imagine. Vitamins, Omega Acids, Proteins, Macro nutrients, Micro nutrients and Humic/Fulvic Acids.

Fish plus seaweed Ascophyllum Nodosum in general provides everything that liquid karma does. Granted LK smells a lot better and can be used as a foliar feed. I think the fish hydroslate is a great thing when "cooking" your soil though since it brings many microbes to the mix.

TCM- i'm glad you liked my idea on Ascophyllum Nodosum. Right now i'm to the point where since i use cloning powder i simply mix 50powder/50AN.
My favorite is to soak the clones in the solution of AN and humic acid directly after being cut to make sure theres a minimal chance of o2 from entering the wound. 15-30mins later I dip in the 50/50 powder and plant directly in jiffy cubes with some mychrozzial in the hole.
Its worked well for me, with the exception of finding the right clone mix and the move. Just make sure not to let a cut sit out of water for to long after being snipped, thats probably the biggest killer IMO.
 
TheCoolestMan

TheCoolestMan

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Now we can talk about organic!! I live very close to ocean and can have access to fish and AN, im on to try making my own since i have a lil garden outdoor. I will be back here tomorow and share the project!

The cloning with AN seems great my clones still have their leaves pointing straight up, all the top are bending and curvig them self to reach some light! So far so good...

I have tones of questions lol but its time for bed here soon, will be back tomo peace brother!
 
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Hashshashin

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I've been interested in organics for quite some time now. I've just started using Subcool's super soil and am loving it so far. I know that it's working I just don't know why it's working. There are a lot of terms that I don't understand, and in turn can't keep up with the discourse. Are there any good books on organics that will break this down for me? And are there any "must reads" for an organic enthusiast?

Glad to see more threads on organics!

I'm glad you asked! There are many good books out there, which is how i got started. As a starter book you should look into "Teaming with Microbes". Biology is the main science involved with organics, not chemistry since were not just chucking nutrients. Were feeding the soil to allow the micros to break down nutrients. In turn the plant will demand what it whats and send chemical signals which in turn influences the rhizosphere(rootzone) to act a certain way therefore effecting uptake of certain nutrients. This is an important book to understanding why we feed the soil. I can tell you why ingredients in each mix are good theres more to life than just elements. The best thing is if you guys happen to live in the UK find some stinging nettles. They are truly a nutrient god and have everything!

This is why in organics we have no need to flush, as long as its really organic. Salts make bud harsh not just chemicals since in reality their gases. When using organics plants will sense the end up their life period which is the period when they swell up and will stop up taking nutrients. with chems it people force their plants to take more N till a week or two towards flower than flush. i like letting the plant act as it feels.

I really hope this thread is open to people creating their own nutrients and getting away from the typical just go and buy it mindset. We have sources all around us it just takes some knowledge to make it work. I'm basically switching forums because the amount of ignorance going on. People just want to use EJ and pay $100 for the whole line every 6 months, and all th power to them. I just know that for under $60 I can support myself for years. Rock dusts, guanos and soil recycling are big factors. If you haven't i definitely recommend recycling your soil mix especially if there's guano or rock dusts in the mix. Most bat guano doesn't even begin to break down until after your first grow in that soil.

I have a supersoil from a friend of mine and i think is truly the best mix available. There is a lot of science that went into these mixes and i will never go back. i dont understand why people spend as much as they do on Fox Farms soil and than they toss it. i just buy a bale of peat a bag of Pine bark mulch and toss it together with all my ammendements and other ingredients necessary. If you already have a soil that orks for you though thats great. YOu have no need to add anything untill necessary and can build on that soil after its been recycled for the first time.
 
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Hashshashin

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When you harvest your plant the roots are left in the soil. i look at these an organic matter which is a good source of food for the micros and broken down nutrients. I love using left over soil which is the basis for recycling. After each grow pull out the old soil and put it in a big container or compost pile if you'd like. Your simply going to amend by what you would is necessary after each grow. This is usually not a whole lot because if you miss anything you can feed with fish&seaweed. This soil is full of microlife and if using all organic techniques should be humus rich and an ideal living medium that a plant can sustain itself if necessary. Soil building is like making a soup you mix the ingredients until everything taste just right. After you get down how to make your base you can start experimenting. Organic matter is always going to have to be put back after a grow my favorite sources are compost, EWC or aged pine bark fines.

Thank you, the reason i've come here is in hope of inspiring others to take on a fully organic approach instead of being contempt with a nutrient regiment. I grow many plants with cannabis being a one. People at my old board didnt care for anyones thought because its not what they wanted to hear. I just want to help people get the best from their surroundings. Weeds are your best source of plant fertilizers i feel, you never really realize the benefits since we're raise to hate them. in my yard 80% of the weeds are edible and members of the lettuce family. I would've never known that if i didn't get into what my weeds can do for me.
 
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hotrod68

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Hashshashin,

This is a great thread more people should grow organic keep the info comming. I'll be picking up that book (teaming with microbes) as well.

HR68
 
TheCoolestMan

TheCoolestMan

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Hash bro how are u today? I will start a project this summer on making nutrients as u sugested. I probably use this thread to follow the project and watch the pics. Im in need of ratio about the fermented fish.

3. Let this rot for a couple of weeks and stir as much as possible(once a day) until it has rotted.

Can u tell me how much of humic acid, molases fish etc...have to be mixed? Also im wondering how much of that mix can be added to 3 cubic feet of soil?

Shall i let the fish rotten at the air or cover it? I amfraid it will attract cats if i have it in my garden. Can this be done indoor like in a garage? How long this fish have to rot?

ahah as u can see i have tones of newbie questions! I wil start slowly lol
 
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Hashshashin

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Hash bro how are u today? I will start a project this summer on making nutrients as u sugested. I probably use this thread to follow the project and watch the pics. Im in need of ratio about the fermented fish.

3. Let this rot for a couple of weeks and stir as much as possible(once a day) until it has rotted.

Can u tell me how much of humic acid, molases fish etc...have to be mixed? Also im wondering how much of that mix can be added to 3 cubic feet of soil?

Shall i let the fish rotten at the air or cover it? I amfraid it will attract cats if i have it in my garden. Can this be done indoor like in a garage? How long this fish have to rot?

ahah as u can see i have tones of newbie questions! I wil start slowly lol

Hey bud, cover the mix for the sake of neighbors and women. This isn't something you want just sitting open because it will attract all sorts of crap you dont want. I also dont like using fish indoors as a foliar feed unless highly diluted due to stench. I really dont measure things out to much except for half the bucket with a carbon source, as they will pick up the excess nitrogen leaching out. Using biochar and a wood mulch would be a great ammenedment for your soil. I'd probably use aboout a cup of molasses for 5 gallons buckets humic acid I would just give some splashs of just to make sure its in there.

I dont mind questions, i'm happy when people are interesting in getting rid of an unnecessary cost.
 
dextr0

dextr0

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Lacto Bacilli

One of the major workhorse beneficial indigenous microorganism used in natural farming is lacto bacilli. This particular beneficial microorganism is popularly used in composting that specifically arrest foul odors associated with anaerobic decomposition. Lactic acid bacteria thrive and feed on the ammonia released in the decomposition normally associated with foul odors. So if you need to decompose or ferment wastes less foul odors, lactic acid bacteria is the specific bacteria to use. Its application in organic farming is enormous. In aquaculture, one of the problem is related to water quality. Poor water quality stresses the fish which in turn stunts their growth and affects their health. This is very evident specially on high density and tank aquaculture. The ammonia produced through fish excretions pollute the water and stress the fish. With regular addition of this beneficial microorganisms to the water, this ammonia problem is minimized, if not fully arrested. It helps hasten or complete the denitrification or converting wastes into forms not harmful to fish.

Spraying diluted solution of lactic acid bacteria serum to the plant and soil helps plant growth and makes them more healthy. As it is applied to the soil or the leaves, these beneficial bacteria aid in the decomposition process, thus allowing more food to be available and assimilated by the plant.

Lactic acid bacteria is also known to produce enzymes and natural antibiotics aiding effective digestion and has antibacterial properties, including control of salmonella and e. coli. To farmers, what are observed are the general health of the plants and animals, better nutrient assimilation, feed conversion and certain toxins eliminations.

Here’s a simple method of collecting this type of microorganism. Lactic acid bacteria can be collected from the air. Pour rice wash (solution generated when you wash the rice with water) on a container like plastic pot with lid. Allow air gap at least 50-75% of the container. The key here is the air space. Cover the (not vacuum tight, allowing air still to move into the container) container with lid loosely. Put the container in a quiet area with no direct sunlight. Allow the rice was to ferment for at least 5-7 days. Lactic acid bacteria will gather in 5-7 days when temperature is 20-25 degrees C. Rice bran will be separated and float in the liquid, like a thin film, smelling sour. Strain and simply get the liquid. Put this liquid in a bigger container and pour ten parts milk. The original liquid has been infected with different type of microbes including lacto bacilli. And in order to get the pure lacto bacilli, saturation of milk will eliminate the other microorganisms and the pure lacto bacilli will be left. You may use skim or powdered milk, although fresh milk is best. In 5-7 days, carbohydrate, protein and fat will float leaving yellow liquid (serum), which contain the lactic acid bacteria. You can dispose the coagulated carbohydrate, protein and fat, add them to your compost pile or feed them to your animals. The pure lactic acid bacteria serum can be stored in the refrigerator or simply add equal amount of crude sugar (dilute with 1/3 water) or molasses. Do not use refined sugar as they are chemically bleached and may affect the lactic acid bacteria. The sugar or molasses will keep the lactic acid bacteria alive at room temperature. One to one ratio is suggested although sugar, regardless of quantity is meant simply, serving as food for the bacteria to keep them alive. Now, these lactic acid bacteria serum with sugar or molasses will be your pure culture. To use, you can dilute this pure culture with 20 parts water. Make sure water is not chemically treated with, like chlorine. Remember, we are dealing with live microorganisms and chlorine can kill them. This diluted form 1:20 ratio will be your basic lactic acid bacteria concoction. Two to four tablespoons added to water of one gallon can be used as your basic spray and can be added to water and feeds of animals. For bigger animals, the 2-4 tablespoons of this diluted lactic acid bacteria serum should be used without diluting it further with water. Lactic acid bacteria serum can be applied to plant leaves to fortify phyllosphere microbes, to soil and compost. Of course, it will help improve digestion and nutrient assimilation for animals and other applications mentioned before. For any kind of imbalance, be it in the soil or digestive system, lacto bacilli can be of help.

One of the popular beneficial microorganism innoculant sfrom Japan (EM) contains lactic acid bacteria as its major component, including photosynthetic bacteria, yeasts, actinomycetes and fermenting fungi. These are pure culture imported from Japan and can be subcultured through the use of sugar or molasses. These other microbes can be cultured in several ways by farmers themselves.

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Forest Beneficial Microorganisms

One technique in culturing other beneficial microorganism is getting them fro your local aged forest. One way is finding a healthy old robust tree in your local forest. Check the humus litter around the tree. The tree should have accumulated real deep humus, litter, compost of at least 2 feet to 1 yard deep. In this area through observation, we can deduce that soil fertility and microbial biodiversity are high. Our goal is to trap and culture these diversed, aged beneficial indigenous microorganisms. The technique that we use in trapping these microorganisms is the use of carbohydrate like cooked rice. Microorganisms will be attracted to food. So generally, what we do is to put the cooked rice on a flatter container with lid. For example, you can use a plastic lunch box and add about an inch of cooked rice allowing air space in the container. What is important here is a larger area to trap those microorganisms. It is suggested that you cover this container with metal netting or equivalent protecting it from animals like rats that may undig your container once you bury it in the litter, humus of your local forest. In 2-10 days (relative to temperature), you may undig your container and will notice contamination of microorganisms like white and other color molds on the cooked rice. The cooked rice has been infected now with microorganisms of your local forest. The next step is to add 1/3 amount of crude sugar or molasses to the infected cooked rice. After a week, the concoction will look like sticky, liquidy rice. You may then add equal amount of crude sugar or molasses to keep it for storage, arresting microbial activities, in a cooler area. To use, you may dilute this serum with 20 parts water. This diluted form shall then serve as your basic forest microorganisms. You may strain it and put in a container.

Another version of trapping similar forest microorganisms is simply getting the litter, humus and spreading them sparingly to the top your cooked rice. Forest leaf molds can also be used. The same procedure will be followed as described in the culture of local forest microorganisms.

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Bamboo Microorganisms

Another method of gathering microorganism is through burying your container with cooked rice on bamboo plants litter. Apparently, bamboo through observation and experience in the East, attracts powerful beneficial microorganisms as the roots of the bamboo exude sugary substances that attract beneficial microorganisms. The same procedure is followed as described before in its culture.

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Plant Specific Microorganisms

An equal specific method is trapping beneficial microorganisms of specific plants you want to grow or growing. For example, if you want to trap and culture beneficial microorganisms from rice, you should then select healthy, vigorous rice plant, cut them and put inverted cooked rice container over the cut rice plant. Again, beneficial microorganisms specific to rice will be attracted to the cooked rice. You can use this technique to any other plant of choice and the same procedure of culture will be used as previously described.

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Rhizobium Nitrogen-Fixing Bacteria

One of the most popular nitrogen-fixing bacteria is rhizobium. It is amazing that when we coat our legumes with these specific bacteria, legumes grow well and more nitrogen is fixed on the soil. Amazingly enough, basic culture of these beneficial bacteria is simple. Once we have seen those nodules created by the bacteria fixing nitrogen on the roots of the legumes, we can assume that there are lots of these rhizobia and nitrogen fixed. Just pull out the legumes plants on a very specific stage, especially towards their flowering/fruiting stage. A simple method of culture is simply get the soil with these leguminous bacteria and mix with crude sugar with equal ratio of crude sugar. Rhizobium bacteria will proliferate feeding on the sugar and thus can be mixed with your next batch of legume seeds for inoculation. Our concoction or recipe of beneficial indigenous microorganism (BIM) is 50% lactic acid bacteria and the rest is 50% of the other microorganisms cultured. So you may use 1part forest microorganism, 1 part bamboo microorganism and 1 part specific plant microorganism mixed with 3 parts or 50% lacto bacilli. The more diversed microbes, the better. However, we will still use 50% of the total beneficial indigenous microorganisms to be lactic acid bacteria. The rest you can experiment and make your own observations and formulations. I cannot really tell you specifically what microbes we get from the different sources we have mentioned. As a rule, I only use the above BIM for plants. For animals, I use just pure lacto bacilli for we have isolated this as described. We have used the bamboo microorganisms for fermenting feeds to be fed to animals.

Different type of microorganisms thrive on different type of foods. As you can see, we use principally carbohydrates and sugars. But it will be equally important that we provide these beneficial indigenous microorganisms with other nutrients. In fact, we mix or add fermented plant extracts (fermented plant and fruit juices), ginger-garlic nutrients, brown rice vinegar and fish amino acid. That’s why in most instances, we mix these beneficial indigenous microorganisms with bionutrients to make it more effective.

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Bionutrients

In the creation of biological nutrients, bionutrients, the basic process is the traditional fermentation. Fermentation process is a better system than simple extraction like boiling the plant materials, through infusion like making tea. In the United States, where compost tea is getting popular in organic agriculture, compost is made into tea, sugar or molasses are added, fermented to increase microbial population. A simple general formula or recipe in fermentation can be done for plants. For example, seaweeds. If you simply infuse seaweeds (which are quite difficult to breakdown, therefore hard to extract active ingredients), you may not get a more potent extracted active ingredients. If you ferment the same materials by adding sugar or molasses, it is easily broken down (biologically) by microorganisms and thus making nutrient more available. Microorganisms get their energy from sugar in fermenting the materials. Most healthy foods are fermented foods. Through fermentation, food are easily broken down, enzymes created, nutrition improved. That’s the reason why fermented foods like yogurt or kimchi (Korean pickles) are more nutritious than plain milk or vegetables.

In making bionutrients, the simple formula is to add 1/3 crude sugar or molasses and mixed with materials to be fermented and extracted. For example, let’s take papaya fruit fermented extract. We chop as thinly as possible ripe papaya, unwashed and unpeeled. We then add 1/3 crude sugar or molasses to the total weight or approximate volume of the papaya materials. Put the materials with at least 50-75% air gap and cover loosely with a lid and let it ferment for at least a week. After a week, you will notice some molds and microbial infections and will start smelling sweet, sour and alcoholic. The materials are then strained and liquid generated will be your pure fruit papaya extract. You can dilute this with 20 parts water. This diluted form can be used as bionutrient, using 2-4 tablespoons per gallon of water. Again, this extract can be added to animal drinking water and feeds, to compost pile or sprayed/watered to plants leaves and roots. This will be a good source of nutrient for plants or animals, and also for our beneficial indigenous microorganisms. Papaya extract is good source of enzyme pappain, beta-carotene and Vitamin C for example. So extract any plant material and just try to find out what kind of nutrients they have you can use for animal and plant nutrition. Should the materials you intend to use for extraction do not have much moisture (as compared to our papaya fruit example), you may add water enough to the level that will moisten all the materials.

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Specific bionutrients, fermented plant and other material extracts we have used to a great success and you can adopt for their specific use:


Kangkong (water spinach) Fermented Extract

This is essentially used as growth promotant. Kangkong is sometimes called water spinach. It is a kind of vegetable that typically grows in fresh water. It can also grow in highly moist soil. It s basic characteristic is it grows very fast, similar to the rapid growth of kelp in the seas. To the natural farmers, this kind of plant or similar plant for that matter have natural growth promotant. In the scientific agricultural parlance, we speak of natural growth hormones like gibberellins, auxins and cytokinins. Plants that grow fast will have a better concentrations of these natural growth hormones. By observation, kangkong or kelp or even mugwort will fall on this category. Thus, axillary buds of kangkong, plants like cucumber, squash and watermelon will be good materials to ferment for this purpose. Once these are fermented, active ingredients extracted, you may use this to spray and/or water your plants. You will notice a great improvement in the growth of your plants.

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Banana-Squash-Papaya (BSP) Fermented Extract

One of the major fermented extract we use for plant flowering and fruiting, specially for vegetables, are extracts from banana, squash and papaya. Apparently, these materials have high level of potassium especially banana, and beta carotene. Although I have not tried a similar recipe using materials readily available here in the US, I will presume that materials substitute can be used. For your own experimentation, you can possibly use comfrey, squash and carrot. Le me know if they will work. In the Philippines, when we induce flowering of mangoes, conventional agriculture use potassium nitrate. We have tried with success natural materials high in nitrogen and potassium. Interesting enough, our local organic farmers have experimented using seaweed extract in inducing flowering of mangoes. Isn’t it seaweed extract have lots of natural growth hormones and trace elements, and good source of nitrogen and potassium? Check out the kinds of materials you can ferment and use to induce growth, flowering and fruiting.

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Fish Amino Acid

As a general rule, the higher the protein of the materials, when composted or fermented, the higher the nitrogen. We use a lot of fish scraps to generate high nitrogen on our fish extracts. Here in the US, fish emulsion is pretty popular. Again, on basic fermentation of this material, we use crude sugar or molasses, third ratio of the fish scraps. I personally like using molasses than crude sugar not just for cost considerations, but molasses minimizes those fishy odors. I have added lactic acid bacteria in fermenting these fish scraps that arrest the foul odors very evident of fish emulsion foliar fertilizers.

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Calcium Phosphate

A lot of agriculture advisers have used calcium phosphate for better plant growth, health, pest and disease controls. Natural farmers use this bionutrient very specific. Under the theory of Nutrioperiodism developed by a Japanese horticulturist, Yasushi Inoue in the 1930’s, plants and animals need a very specific nutrient relative to the stage of their development. In the plant, there is the essential vegetative growth , changeover and the reproductive periods. In animals, like humans, there is the infantile, juvenile and adulthood. It is not only critical to provide the right nutrient at the right stage of the development, but also critical to use or apply specific nutrient of calcium phosphate in the juvenile or changeover period. For the plant, for example, we know that nitrogen is critical on the vegetative stage as potassium is critical in the flowering and fruiting stages. It is however, the changeover period that is most critical that will determine the quality of the final reproductive stage. At this stage, an additional nutrient is badly needed by the plant. And this is calcium phosphate. Calcium phosphate is good for plants’ “morning sickness”. It is the stage that additional baby needs to be fed or the process where flower/fruit is about to come. Ash made from soybean stems are excellent for this purpose.

Here is a simple, natural method of generating calcium phosphate. Get eggshells and roast them enough to generate some good ashes. Afterwhich, dip these roasted eggshells on about equal visual volume of vinegar. Allow it to sit for a couple of weeks until eggshells are practically broken down by the vinegar acids. You may use this diluted 20 parts water and can be sprayed or watered to the plants during the changeover period.

When this is applied to that changeover period, it will improve plant health and productivity. The use of calcium phosphate is important to natural farmers. This however, does not mean that we shall forget the nutrient timing application of other critical nutrients for plant growth both macro and micro nutrients, given at the right stages and combinations.

We consider this very important bionutrient needed by the plants used by natural farmers.

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Ginger-Garlic Extract

The original recipe of the natural farmers of Korea use not only the ginger and garlic materials, but also Chinese herbs like Angelica acutiloba, Glycurrhiza uralensis and Cinnamomum loureirii. These Chinese herbs have one basic common denominator, they are good for digestion. We have used simply equal amount of ginger and garlic, less these Chinese herbs. This is our natural antibiotics we use for plants and animals.

Remember the high level of sulfur on garlic? It is a good fungicide. The ginger-garlic extract is quite different from the plant extracts we have discussed. We soak the chopped up ginger and garlic in beer or wine overnight or 12 hours. Then we add 1/3 crude sugar and let it ferment for a couple of days like 5-7 days. They we add alcohol which stabilizes and arrests fermentation. The alcohol should be at least 40% proof. The active ingredients of the ginger and garlic is extracted in finale with the use of alcohol similar to herbal tincture we are familiar with in homeopathy. Remember that ginger and garlic are highly medicinal and highly nutritious. We have used them as natural antibiotics and in preventive medicine. We have used this concoction on chicks and chickens and have made them healthy throughout. Of course, we also use them when we see animal weakening and when they are sick. We have used them on fungal problems of plants. We have used them for rheumatism. The uses are enormous both for plants and animals. The potency of your plant extracts are relative to active ingredients that are available from the plants you are extracting. Most importantly, the part of the plants. For example, the energy on the plant part is most concentrated on the seed, fruit, leaf and other parts of the plants, to that general order. Seed is where the plant procreate itself. By simply adding moisture and heat, seed will germinate and will derive its nutrient for growth from its own seed. What natural farmers are saying is that the energy or nutrition is more potent on the seed, fruit will be second and on the leaf third. That’s the reason why when we ferment seeds like grain, our dilution for use is 1:1000 instead of 1:500. This is just a guideline.

Sometimes, you can use more diluted form but with more frequent applications. There is really no clear cut rule. Things have to be based on experimentations, experiences and observations.


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Designer Compost

Improved, more potent, otherwise know as bokashi in Japan is essentially naturally fortified with macro and micro nutrients, or bionutrients and biodiversed beneficial indigenous microorganisms.

Here is a typical recipe we use in the Philippines:
- Rice Bran 10 kilos
- Copra Meal 20 kilos
- Coco Peat 20 kilos
- Chicken Manure 30 kilos
- Charcoal Dust 20 kilos
- BIM* 1 liter
- Molasses 1 kilo
- Bionutrient 1 liter
• Beneficial Indigenous Microorganism

Similar recipe can be adopted here in the US, replacing or substituting similar materials above. A basic formulation that I use is very similar to the general formulation I use for animal feeds. Basic formulation consists of 80% carbohydrate, 17% protein and 3% Vitamin/Mineral. When we apply this formulation to our designer compost, we likewise find 80% carbon source, 17% nitrogen and 3% trace elements, as a matter of rule.

For the rice bran, you can substitute wheat or any inexpensive grain bran. Our copra meal or the materials residue after extracting oil from coconut can be substituted with corn meal or inexpensive meal that has ample amount of protein. Soybean is a good substitute or any other legumes. Coco peat can be substituted with peat moss. I will probably use sawdust or any materials high in carbon and lignin. Any kind of grain hay can also be used. Any kind of animal manure can likewise be used. It is however ideal to use chicken manure because of its more potent ingredients as far as macro nutrients like nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium and calcium, not to mention its good source of micro nutrients. Charcoal dust is used for it is a basic carbon which natural farmers find a good media or substrate for proliferation of beneficial microorganisms. And of course, the use of molasses (as sugar source) that really improve the population of microorganisms since it is a basic food source for them. Bionutrient will be a concoction of high level of macro and micro nutrients. Depending on your goal, like higher level of potassium for example, we kind of emphasize our bionutrient with fermented extract high in potassium. Likewise, if your intention is to have a more potent level of nitrogen, our bionutrient shall emphasize high level of nitrogen source like fish emulsion or plant leguminous extract. You can likewise add and ferment rock dusts. The general key however, in this designer compost formulation or bokashi is potent biodiversed beneficial indigenous microorganisms and bionutrients. You may adjust this basic recipe relative to your requirements and observations. When you try to analyze our Philippine basic recipe, you will notice that it is pretty much satisfying the general formulation I have mentioned as to carbohydrate-carbon, protein-nitrogen and vitamin / mineral - micronutrients ratios. The real key to this recipe is providing a greater population of biodiversed beneficial indigenous microorganisms and bionutrients, with lots of carbon and organic matter. I bet you, it will make also good compost tea.

I have deliberately included this bokashi in this presentation to show that we natural farmers consider beneficial indigenous microorganisms and bionutrients of great importance for soil fertility and animal health. As we establish a healthy fertile soil, we observe healthy plants, animals, community and planet. Living soil is dependent on biodiversed microbial populations and nutrients that create a stable, balance and harmonious soil that determines healthy plants and animals. As we “farm with air, water and sunlight”, and nutrient, we likewise farm with microorganisms vital to soil fertility.

As sustainable agriculture is based on soil fertility to perpetually sustain production, so is soil fertility is determined by diversity and balance of microbial ecologies.
 
M

mrbong73

580
28
Organic higher learning

I would highly recommend visiting this forum for some excellent info on organic growing.
I hope it's not out of line to link this. The knowledge should be shared.
http://forum.grasscity.com/organic-growing/

Also, regarding this thread in particular. This product is an example of what can be used in the FPE and Bokashi composting process. Along with many other uses.
 
B

Bubblemang

Guest
GS - no offense but EFF advanced nutes. they perpetuate misinformation and make money off of it. they are the worst nute company of all.

OP - effing great thread. bumpity bump bump
 
G

Green Supreme

Guest
Hate the company not the product. This thread was about fermented plant extracts and that was the topic of my post. Apologies to the offended, I guess. Peace GS
 
B

Bubblemang

Guest
Hate the company not the product. This thread was about fermented plant extracts and that was the topic of my post. Apologies to the offended, I guess. Peace GS

sorry bout that, no need to apologize. i just hate AN, but they do have a couple decent products. GO FERMENTED PLANT EXTRACTS!
 
Jack Dupp

Jack Dupp

507
93
mrbong73- Thanks for posting the link to the GC forums. Great info.

I am currently starting a Lacto Bacillius Culture (EM) using the rice wash method.

I can't wait to see what FPE's and homemade Bokashi will do to my garden.
 
justiceman

justiceman

2,718
263
This thread is awesome! I'm aware of certain nutrients like Pura Vida Organics, Bio Canna, and General Organincs witch are basically Plant Fermented Extracts but their cost is considerably high.

I've heard that PFE are the best source of nutrition. I like your Sea Weed PFE recipe. I think I'm going to try that out. I ran Sub Cools super soil for my last outdoor run. Somewhere in the beginning of flowering I started to run into a Nitrogen deficiency. Am I able to literally trap N by adding more of a carbon source to the soil. Not to mention If I added some type of N fixing bacteria. I Like your view and passion about Organics. It's motivating. If you have any other PFE recipes I would LOVE to look at them. Thanks for coming here and making this thread. I appreciate it greatly!

Oh and what is AN Plant Fermented Extract? Don't know what AN stands for.
 
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