First Grow In A Long Time.

  • Thread starter Iceman2494
  • Start date
  • Tagged users None
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
so it’s been almost 10 years since my last grow . Decided to give it a go again for fun .

Seeds:northern lights and super lemon haze.

Soil : 707 organic soil

Lighting: 600w led .. for now

Seeds germinated yesterday . Planted today .
My question is there any reason to put it under the light if they haven’t popped out of the ground ? It’s been awhile .
 
Jack og

Jack og

Supporter
2,898
263
18/6 till leaves are popping then transition that to 24/7 until you ready to flip
 
DETtoPDX

DETtoPDX

91
33
I’d put them under the light for warmth, and it will encourage the growth out of the soil. You don’t even need a fan on really if you’re still waiting for them to pop, humidity is actually a plus. Keep the temp and light up and they’ll be out of the ground in 24-48 hours most likely. CFL’s are also a good way to go, and they can be placed as near as 2 inches from your plants safely, great for seedlings.
 
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
I’d put them under the light for warmth, and it will encourage the growth out of the soil. You don’t even need a fan on really if you’re still waiting for them to pop, humidity is actually a plus. Keep the temp and light up and they’ll be out of the ground in 24-48 hours most likely. CFL’s are also a good way to go, and they can be placed as near as 2 inches from your plants safely, great for seedlings.
I can see the lemon haze about to pop up . Can tell with nl. I have enough patience. I also have a 900 watt led cob light . I’ll wait till they get bigger . Or should I wait till flowering to use both ?
 
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
I can see the lemon haze about to pop up . Can tell with nl. I have enough patience. I also have a 900 watt led cob light . I’ll wait till they get bigger . Or should I wait till flowering to use both ?
Went to check this morning. Lemon haze poked out of ground with a crown still on . Nl nothing . Went to see if any changes . Still same as I put in . Put it barely over the surface this time . Tad drop of water and I’ll wait and see .
 
DETtoPDX

DETtoPDX

91
33
Went to check this morning. Lemon haze poked out of ground with a crown still on . Nl nothing . Went to see if any changes . Still same as I put in . Put it barely over the surface this time . Tad drop of water and I’ll wait and see .
Nice, some are slower than others. The good news about doing it in soil, is there’s no harm really done if you stay patient. Keep it moist by spraying it, and if you don’t have a misting bottle you may want to invest, very cheap from the grow stores for a perfect (and handy) exact measuring tool marked with mL by scale of 100 up to 1 liter usually. Make sure you wait for now. Don’t do anything for at least 4 days or more, maybe google that. It also helps to cling film pots or use a humidity dome with root pod starters, I even like the heat mats. If all else fails and I get impatient, and this happens pretty rarely, I will carefully dig across the surface for seeds. And I mean carefully, like perlite by perlite, chunk by chunk. I’f you see any thing that resembles growth, don’t panic, that’s good, just leave it and gently scoop a light amount of dirt back over him. put the seed in water and soak it for 24 hours. Paper towel method can get messy, but if soil doesn’t work, you can always try soaking it In water for 24 hours, and then plant again. Don’t exceed 24 hours, dont risk drowning the seeds. AGAIN if you’re GONNA DIG BE careful... twice only ive’d used a toothpick to individually dig perlite and such out the way a bit. But when I plant, I surround the seed’s location with toothpicks for an X marks the spot:jimlad: good luck be patient
 
Last edited:
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
Nice, some are slower than others. The good news about doing it in soil, is there’s no harm really done if you stay patient. Keep it moist by spraying it, and if you don’t have a misting bottle you may want to invest, very cheap from the grow stores for a perfect (and handy) exact measuring tool marked with mL by scale of 100 up to 1 liter usually. Make sure you wait for now. Don’t do anything for at least 4 days or more, maybe google that. It also helps to cling film pots or use a humidity dome with root pod starters, I even like the heat mats. If all else fails and I get impatient, and this happens pretty rarely, I will carefully dig across the surface for seeds. And I mean carefully, like perlite by perlite, chunk by chunk. I’f you see any thing that resembles growth, don’t panic, that’s good, just leave it and gently scoop a light amount of dirt back over him. put the seed in water and soak it for 24 hours. Paper towel method can get messy, but if soil doesn’t work, you can always try soaking it In water for 24 hours, and then plant again. Don’t exceed 24 hours, dont risk drowning the seeds. AGAIN if you’re GONNA DIG BE careful... twice only ive’d used a toothpick to individually dig perlite and such out the way a bit. But when I plant, I surround the seed’s location with toothpicks for an X marks the spot:jimlad: good luck be patient
Wish I would have thought of that for nl . I looked and couldn’t find . Did carefully but no luck . force a fart you shit your pants . Hopefully she pops up sometime . If all else fails lemon haze is up and hat removed. I have wrap on top . To keep humidity in . Problem is I live in the south . Yea I know easy humidity. Nosey neighbors so I can’t go out side to let break ground and house could harvest a penguin.think I did this one time and waited till root grew and was distinct from soil . Oh well life finds a way . Other hand . I know the soil I have is hot . Is there any rush on feeds or cal mag in the week coming ?
 
Last edited:
DETtoPDX

DETtoPDX

91
33
Wish I would have thought of that for nl . I looked and couldn’t find . Did carefully but no luck . force a fart you shit your pants . Hopefully she pops up sometime . If all else fails lemon haze is up and hat removed. I have wrap on top . To keep humidity in . Problem is I live in the south . Yea I know easy humidity. Nosey neighbors so I can’t go out side to let break ground and house could harvest a penguin.think I did this one time and waited till root grew and was distinct from soil . Oh well life finds a way . Other hand . I know the soil I have is hot . Is there any rush on feeds or cal mag in the week coming ?

Short answer: No, wait 7-14 days. Long answer: Most potting soils should have some sufficient calcium and magnesium for the first 1-2 weeks of growth, watch for any yellowing at all. Soil typically buffers pH well, especially when dolomite like is mixed in. Adding cal mag to water changes the pH. You have to test the pH after you add all the nutrients like Calmag and grow boosters. A lot of potting soils from fox Farm and other popular brands add it. Dolomite Lime also deposits CalMag into the soil. Whether or not you add cal mag to also depends on your water source. Reverse osmosis, always add CalMag. If you’re just doing tap water, like I am, you’ll have some cal mag already in there, thats why the pH is so high in tap water. In tap there’s also some chloramine, city water is treated for cleanliness. If you are using well water (ground) you will have maybe TOO MUCH cal mag and other metals. A TDS meter will read the electrically charged ions like cal mag in the water. Get this for well water, not for the other tap, distilled or reverse osmosis varieties of filtered water. If you are adding nutrients to your water to feed, you may still want a TDS Meter to make sure you’re not over feeding your girls. Again the TDS Meter helps measure all the ions in the water, like those in your nutrient feeds. This will stop you from burning them! The metal ions are measured in parts per million, the meter does this for you.
Ideal Ppms by stage: Seedling(w1)=100-250ppm. Early veg(w2/3)300-400. Late veg (450-700) Early flower=(750-950). Late flower=(1000-1600). Flushing is only necessary with bottle nutrients being used, like cal mag. So flush with DISTILLED or REV OSMOSIS water with 0 ppm if possible, done 1 week before harvest. Right now you should wait a week
As mentioned the pH is also super high in tap, 8.2. Pot plants in soil like their root zone slightly acidic, 5.5-6.5. It makes sense to water with 5.5-6.0 in veg and 6.0-6.5 in flower. I like a pH of 6.0 for veg. Get a cheap pH pen on amazon or local grow store if you haven’t. I use absorbic acid at a rate of 50mg/gallon to eliminate chloramine, and it also brings down the pH to where I need it, it’s just vitamin c. Plants actually love it, it’s a water soluble vitamin. Hope that helps y
 
Skunked

Skunked

549
93
so it’s been almost 10 years since my last grow . Decided to give it a go again for fun .

Seeds:northern lights and super lemon haze.

Soil : 707 organic soil

Lighting: 600w led .. for now

Seeds germinated yesterday . Planted today .
My question is there any reason to put it under the light if they haven’t popped out of the ground ? It’s been awhile .
Are these old beans? This would be an interesting grow.
 
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
Short answer: No, wait 7-14 days. Long answer: Most potting soils should have some sufficient calcium and magnesium for the first 1-2 weeks of growth, watch for any yellowing at all. Soil typically buffers pH well, especially when dolomite like is mixed in. Adding cal mag to water changes the pH. You have to test the pH after you add all the nutrients like Calmag and grow boosters. A lot of potting soils from fox Farm and other popular brands add it. Dolomite Lime also deposits CalMag into the soil. Whether or not you add cal mag to also depends on your water source. Reverse osmosis, always add CalMag. If you’re just doing tap water, like I am, you’ll have some cal mag already in there, thats why the pH is so high in tap water. In tap there’s also some chloramine, city water is treated for cleanliness. If you are using well water (ground) you will have maybe TOO MUCH cal mag and other metals. A TDS meter will read the electrically charged ions like cal mag in the water. Get this for well water, not for the other tap, distilled or reverse osmosis varieties of filtered water. If you are adding nutrients to your water to feed, you may still want a TDS Meter to make sure you’re not over feeding your girls. Again the TDS Meter helps measure all the ions in the water, like those in your nutrient feeds. This will stop you from burning them! The metal ions are measured in parts per million, the meter does this for you.
Ideal Ppms by stage: Seedling(w1)=100-250ppm. Early veg(w2/3)300-400. Late veg (450-700) Early flower=(750-950). Late flower=(1000-1600). Flushing is only necessary with bottle nutrients being used, like cal mag. So flush with DISTILLED or REV OSMOSIS water with 0 ppm if possible, done 1 week before harvest. Right now you should wait a week
As mentioned the pH is also super high in tap, 8.2. Pot plants in soil like their root zone slightly acidic, 5.5-6.5. It makes sense to water with 5.5-6.0 in veg and 6.0-6.5 in flower. I like a pH of 6.0 for veg. Get a cheap pH pen on amazon or local grow store if you haven’t. I use absorbic acid at a rate of 50mg/gallon to eliminate chloramine, and it also brings down the pH to where I need it, it’s just vitamin c. Plants actually love it, it’s a water soluble vitamin. Hope that helps y
Thanks for all the info . I will def have to come back to this as a ref .im not using tap . Using bottle water .
 
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
Should I keep plastic wrap over for humidity still ? Lemon haze did a lot of growing over night . Opened up and started first set of leaves !also found nl seed . Decided to put it back in a paper towel and heat it on a pad till she opens up a little more . She barely has a tiny tap root sticking out .
 
Last edited:
DETtoPDX

DETtoPDX

91
33
Should I keep plastic wrap over for humidity still ? Lemon haze did a lot of growing over night . Opened up and started first set of leaves !also found nl seed . Decided to put it back in a paper towel and heat it on a pad till she opens up a little more . She barely has a tiny tap root sticking out .

Once they’v broken the surface pop that plastic off! If the seedling starts to grow super tall, move the light a little closer. They look great man.
 
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
Once they’v broken the surface pop that plastic off! If the seedling starts to grow super tall, move the light a little closer. They look great man.
It has grown a good bit today. Mostly stem and first leaves . Moved closer to light. Thinking of going 260w 304 qb . Think that will be sufficient for 2 plants all the way through ?
 
Jack og

Jack og

Supporter
2,898
263
It has grown a good bit today. Mostly stem and first leaves . Moved closer to light. Thinking of going 260w 304 qb . Think that will be sufficient for 2 plants all the way through ?
Maybe for veg but man you will need to up to about 700min for flower
 
DETtoPDX

DETtoPDX

91
33
Will this work? For 2 plants?

First great choice, the quantum boards are good. What’s the size of your growing space? To answer, 260 watts is a little low for 2 plants with room to grow. I think 400-600 watts is more what you’re looking for. I use chip on board (COB) LEDs; Vero, Citizen and CREE are the only COBs worth mentioning. Rest suck. Vero is the most efficient besides the boards. Timber grow labs and Horticulture Lighting Group are probably the two best light brands out there for LED. You could basically just get two of those boards sets and mount them together, watt driver’s side by side on a metal frame. Or, search elsewhere for another 400w ish LED. The light is an investment. It is probably the most important part of the set up besides your soil being #1. Don’t skimp, I had a $100 “1000w” LED on amazon and it was garbage.
 
Last edited:
Iceman2494

Iceman2494

324
43
First great choice, the quantum boards are good. What’s the size of your growing space? To answer, 260 watts is a little low for 2 plants with room to grow. I think 400-600 watts is more what you’re looking for. I use chip on board (COB) LEDs; Vero, Citizen and CREE are the only COBs worth mentioning. Rest suck. Vero is the most efficient besides the boards. Timber grow labs and Horticulture Lighting Group are probably the two best light brands out there for LED. You could basically just get two of those boards sets and mount them together, watt driver’s side by side on a metal frame. Or, search elsewhere for another 400w ish LED. The light is an investment. It is probably the most important part of the set up besides your soil being #1. Don’t skimp, I had a $100 “1000w” LED on amazon and it was garbage.
Tent is a 2x4? Kind of strapped on cash for now .
 
Top Bottom