SweetLeafGrow
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Yes, this was the argument for keeping temps lower. Hit almost 74F in the res last night and it wasn't too hot yesterday in the low 80's. I expect it to get a lot warmer if I don't do something.Im assuming he was telling you that so you dont get root rot. . cause with root rot. .all nutrients have a hard time. Warmer temps promote root rot is what im guessing he was talking about.
The air pump is in the same room as everything else and the temp currently is 70F in the tent, water in the res is sitting at 69F currently.I seen my comment about you running a live system. What room is your airpump in? Whats the temp of the room your air pump and res is in? I have to cool my bedroom with a window unit. Anyways gotta go back inside work
Yea keep your temps low since this is also your first rdwc grow. Since your live you wont have issues running in the low 70s as long as you pot is well aerated and no light gets in there.The air pump is in the same room as everything else and the temp currently is 70F in the tent, water in the res is sitting at 69F currently.
H202 and bbs or am I reading it wrong?Hey sweetleaf,
I hope the chiller turns out to be necessary, either way nice to have control.
I find that DO is better at lower temps (i.e 68*) but bacteria grows a bit faster at higher temps (i.e. 72*)
DO really helps the plants and combats anaerobic bacteria. I have done some testing and with my airstones I am able to get the DO to about 150% or about 15mL/L range. That is great for BB and plants. So if you really want to tweak this, my results would guide a higher initial temp in the res when first starting because small plants don't use as much O2 and building that colony fast will fight root rot. Then after the colony is fully established, you can bring the temps down with the chiller to the 68 - 70 range for best plant performance.
If you do it right, here is what you have to look forward to:
View attachment 1257127
Root mass is approx equal to bud mass, or at least they correlate. So this would be a "big" harvest situation if that is your goal.
EDIT: I keep hearing that nutes satin roots. Not true. H2O2 damages root tissue for the sterile guys, and they interpret that as micros staining. No staining there and these have been fed a full diet sans H2O2.
EDIT EDIT: That gap between the bottom of the net pot and where the root mass starts is the distance below the pot where the water line sits. Hopefully you were able to get yours adjusted down a bit.
Sorry sans means without. I really should learn to speak english.H202 and bbs or am I reading it wrong?
Sometimes my literary purple prose gets in the way of communication.Thanks Moe. Trying to understand what you are saying.
Pardon my ignorance, but what is DO? Also, what is sans H2O2? Is that a typo or did you just mean Hydrogen Peroxide? Are you running sterile?
I see the gap, mine is a bit higher than yours looks but I was worried about getting it too low for those short roots. I'd say it's about 1/2" to 3/4" gap on what I have now and I did notice this morning that some roots are showing out the bottom of the basket, not a lot, but some are def poking their head out. I can let it get lower once roots are down in the water I'm guessing.
I figured it was due to my lack of understanding. Dumb it down for us next time. I'm actually good at dumbing it down cause im pretty um . . wait. . im just dumb :(Sometimes my literary purple prose gets in the way of communication.
DO = dissolved Oxygen.
Sans H202 means no H2O2 used. H2O2 is Hydrogen Peroxide. For those coming after, this is what is used by some RDWC growers in place of bacteria and is considered a "sterile" grow.
I am not sterile. If I was, and was running H2O2, those roots would have a red tinge to them which is the H2O2 damaging the epidermis of the root.
As far as the water reaching the roots - it is not necessary when the plants first go in. All those bubbles come up to the surface, pop, and sprinkle the roots continually, even if only an inch long. They will get in that water in short order. It's like aeroponics for a short time until they do. But the other thing you will likely notice is a stall in vertical growth of the plant as the roots grow faster and the rhizosphere develops. Not to worry, often you want to back down the lights for a few days while the roots catch up to the growth above ground.
I'm currently sans 3/4" tubing
Ahahaha. Now I have to remove sans from my lexicon. Wait, probably need to remove lexicon from my um what was I saying?
what chiller did you get? If the same as mine I can help you with the fittings needed.
Can you show a pic of the brown on the roots? Slimy or smelly?
How is your oxygenation? What air pump / stones are you running and where?
In a pinch just freeze a 2 liter bottle with water in it and put it in the res. If you had 2, you could keep one in the freezer and one in the res and swap out as needed.
Depending on what the roots look like, worst case scenario is you need to run some H2O2 for now to kill off Pythium or whatever you have. You can keep it sterile at that point or go back to live once it is gone and the H2O2 is out of the system.
EDIT: These will help you know when it is safe to put the bacteria back in if you end up going the peroxide route:
The test strips I linked above are what I used to use when I was sterilizing a system. So, harvest done, wanna get all the crap out before you start again, easiest way is peroxide at about 50PPM. Run it like that for a day or 2, then do water changes until there is no peroxide detected on the strip before adding bacteria back in.Never seen H202 test strips ?
As far as testing water strips are known to be the least accurate method but a good fall back/ quick check??
My understanding of H2O2 in water is that it converts to water and oxygen with the standard dose of 1-3 ml. per gallon in 12-24 hours .
Does it somehow last longer in grow systems ?
I have used plenty of H2O2 in tanks of water that were anything but sterile. Never had an issue?
I agree the air stone looks contaminated unless it is diatoms that naturally grow in new system until they eat themselves out of house and home. Could be months,but in water the brown 'slime' is not a issue to be concerned with. They do not need light.
I have ZERO hydro experience so maybe it has different meaning, but it could be diatoms also.
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