Wisher619 said:

sorry actually this is what I would do....see where your res is....ppm wise....then that will tell you where you need to add
next fill up 1 gallon of water and put 1tsp of tiger in and take a ppm reading then and another tsp and keep going until you match where you need to be...as in say all your nute come to 650 so you need 200ppm to reach 850......you keep adding to the gallon until you reach 200 ppm and that will tell you how many tsp per gallon to reach your desired ppm for that nute.....then just times that by your res size and you are good to go

sorry if my explanation sounds super basic....just wanted to be super clear....for myself....cuz I am having an OCD moment

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Wisher619 said:

thanks man.....I just hate when I may come across condescending or anything like that....but I just wanted to be super specific so you dont have any .....OH SHIT WHAT DO I DO NOW...moments

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Irie Farmer said:

Inert means void of nutrients and has nothing to do with pH. It definitely affects pH and will drive it up even more than Rockwool, even after it's cleaned and soaked in a solution of 5.5 for 48 hours. It will stabilize but your pH will still rise as it runs through your system and the ionic reaction in your root zone will cause it to rise. Also I wouldn't suggest running a pH of 5.2 even though it will rise very quickly as you stand a good chance of nitrogen burning your roots. Anything below 5.4 can get sketchy if it's making direct contact with the roots with no buffering like you have with soil. Run your micros through your system only at a pH that low if you notice a deficiency, which I don't think you will if you are using a complete nutrient solution at a starting point of 5.6 and within a week you'll be up around 6.3 or so when it's time for a solution change.

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Wisher619 said:

looks good bro.....yeah man I say 3 more weeks till chop chop.....

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Wisher619 said:

check out this greasy iced out slut
View attachment 608704
View attachment 608706

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wasfromks said:

Oh damn sexy bro....dude I will get some better pics for you this weekend....bro my sluts are so frosty they look like they went through a freeze chill...like fucking winter all up in there but feeling like summer....hehe

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Wisher619 said:

yeah so you will keep running hydroguard @100 cuz it holds no ec value...no ppms....as you start to cut back.....what I do is drop to 75% of 100 for each product....
so lets say you are running micro at 10ml per gallon.....you would drop down to 7.5 ml per gallon
50% would 5ml and so on
and that would be for all products
so just bust out the calculator and x's what ever each product is by .75 and run that for a week.....then the next week 50% or .5 and then the following 25% or .25 and the last week at .25 every time the water drops...refill with fresh water and allow the nutes to slowly be taken...last 2 days just ph'd water.....
people used to think you could flush something out of the plant
you cant....
but what you are doing is forcing the plant to cannabalize it self of all nutrients stored....which actually tells the plant the end is near and to ripen up
in nature with weather changes and tempreture changes as well as water or lack there of...these plants will stop taking in what nature is providing and kill itself essentially
we just mimmick that

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wasfromks said:

OK I totally dig this...so hyrdogaurd at 100% (it won't even effect ppm). Everything else run at 75%. With exception to the tiger bloom as well. I took your advice on that and only ran it at 1/4 strength. I read that it is very strong and easy to burn up plants, and most hydro users were using it at 1/4. So with that said I only used 4tbs, should I just drop that down 1 1/2 tbs per res change? I change my res every 7 days so I could just taper it off basically right?

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