First Time Grow guides or advice?

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J44

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Hi,

New to growing, this is first attempt have a couple of automatic seeds and was wondering if theres a basic guide anywhere to follow for the grow? I have searched and read up as much as I can find on this forum.

I have plenty of room indoors.

a full spectrum LED 600W and a sunmaster HPS with dimmer.

Hygrometer

Bluelab Nutrient meter.

will get a moisture meter for watering

Anything else I should get?

Which nutrients should I feed with?

I have some Ionic grow and hardwater grow but I plan to use Rainwater as much as possible.


I plan to use wet paper towel in bag method for two days or until I see a few mm root.

then transport to rockwool (should I soak these first?)

Then I was going to use 90cm either fabric pots or aerated pots with a soilless promix (any reccomendations there seems to be lots of options)

Then just make a rainwater feed mix and water alternativly with the feed mix and plain rainwater when the moisture meter is reading dry 1/4 up the pot.

Keep temprature around 22-24degC then drop to 17 during lights off time

LED light at 26" above the top of plants moving closer during the grow. HPs 24" moving down towards 15" dependant upon heat. may not use the HPS depends how warm the room stays but if needed ill use the extra light. at which stage should I start switch lights from 24h to a cycle?

Maybe start some LST at around half total height (50-70cm so would introduce at around 30cm)

Does this sound acceptable or do I need some more reading time?

Any advice is greatly welcomed Id like to establish a good base set up that yeilds good results that I can then make alterations to over a few grows and see what I find works best.

TIA
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

2,178
263
Nothing I see is jumping out as a problem ... Just a few things to keep in mind. It takes a while to really master the skills required to grow from seed to harvest without a hitch. There will be a learning curve. This does not mean you won't harvest some quality buds your first time. It does mean that as your skills improve your yield and quality will too. Experience is the best teacher ... I've been growing for multiple years now. I've harvested lots of quality buds, but I'm still learning a lot on every run.

Good book for your library: https://www.amazon.com/Cannabis-Gro...1?keywords=ed+rosenthal&qid=1642873126&sr=8-1

There are many other books that are good, but this one is up to date for the most part. It was released in Oct 2021 in it's latest edition.
 
SativaKid

SativaKid

53
18
Hi,

New to growing, this is first attempt have a couple of automatic seeds and was wondering if theres a basic guide anywhere to follow for the grow? I have searched and read up as much as I can find on this forum.

I have plenty of room indoors.

a full spectrum LED 600W and a sunmaster HPS with dimmer.

Hygrometer

Bluelab Nutrient meter.

will get a moisture meter for watering

Anything else I should get?

Which nutrients should I feed with?

I have some Ionic grow and hardwater grow but I plan to use Rainwater as much as possible.


I plan to use wet paper towel in bag method for two days or until I see a few mm root.

then transport to rockwool (should I soak these first?)

Then I was going to use 90cm either fabric pots or aerated pots with a soilless promix (any reccomendations there seems to be lots of options)

Then just make a rainwater feed mix and water alternativly with the feed mix and plain rainwater when the moisture meter is reading dry 1/4 up the pot.

Keep temprature around 22-24degC then drop to 17 during lights off time

LED light at 26" above the top of plants moving closer during the grow. HPs 24" moving down towards 15" dependant upon heat. may not use the HPS depends how warm the room stays but if needed ill use the extra light. at which stage should I start switch lights from 24h to a cycle?

Maybe start some LST at around half total height (50-70cm so would introduce at around 30cm)

Does this sound acceptable or do I need some more reading time?

Any advice is greatly welcomed Id like to establish a good base set up that yeilds good results that I can then make alterations to over a few grows and see what I find works best.

TIA
Seeds are the most important thing. Soil is second. But I'm going to tell you about soil because your committed. I always feel good about helping someone that is committed. So peat based soils is my choice because eventually you can overcome the weaknesses of Peat and it can be really good if you recycle it and grow only natural. It's dirt cheap up in the North and is the basis of every branded soil as in Promix. The biggest problem with peat moss is it's very acidic. So to mellow it through the batches to a neutral state. When you reach neutral and alive after running a few batches of plants your buds will be giant and dripping wet. You wont use any fakes nutes or calmag. So you start with a lot of soil and a clean garbage can to store extra soil in between batches. Start by adding 30% Perlite to the Pro Mix or Other Peat Based Soil. This will help lower the PH because by volume Perlite is close to 7.5 Ph. And each batch I add about 1/2 a cup of Gaja Green Power Bloom 2-8-4. It's mostly bone meal that helps to raise the Ph. And next I add 1/8 teaspoon dolomite lime to my 20 gallon dechlor barrels(garbage cans) and this will gradually raise the ph of the soil. And lastly use extremely lightly fish emulsion to fertilize in veg and banana peel tea to fertilize in flower. So my best tip buy 4 clean pliable garbage cans that you can stack in a nest. Because in off season you store your soil in then and can mix soil in there a bit. Plus you need 2 Dichlorination barrels for water. It takes 3-4 days to get the chlorine out so you rotate barrels.
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

2,178
263
Seeds are the most important thing. Soil is second. But I'm going to tell you about soil because your committed. I always feel good about helping someone that is committed. So peat based soils is my choice because eventually you can overcome the weaknesses of Peat and it can be really good if you recycle it and grow only natural. It's dirt cheap up in the North and is the basis of every branded soil as in Promix. The biggest problem with peat moss is it's very acidic. So to mellow it through the batches to a neutral state. When you reach neutral and alive after running a few batches of plants your buds will be giant and dripping wet. You wont use any fakes nutes or calmag. So you start with a lot of soil and a clean garbage can to store extra soil in between batches. Start by adding 30% Perlite to the Pro Mix or Other Peat Based Soil. This will help lower the PH because by volume Perlite is close to 7.5 Ph. And each batch I add about 1/2 a cup of Gaja Green Power Bloom 2-8-4. It's mostly bone meal that helps to raise the Ph. And next I add 1/8 teaspoon dolomite lime to my 20 gallon dechlor barrels(garbage cans) and this will gradually raise the ph of the soil. And lastly use extremely lightly fish emulsion to fertilize in veg and banana peel tea to fertilize in flower. So my best tip buy 4 clean pliable garbage cans that you can stack in a nest. Because in off season you store your soil in then and can mix soil in there a bit. Plus you need 2 Dichlorination barrels for water. It takes 3-4 days to get the chlorine out so you rotate barrels.
3-4 days will not remove chloramines, which is what most municipal water sources are using currently. It's why they are using it ... it doesn't evaporate easily. A better approach is using a dechlorination filter system designed to remove sediment, heavy metals, and chloramines.
 
SativaKid

SativaKid

53
18
3-4 days will not remove chloramines, which is what most municipal water sources are using currently. It's why they are using it ... it doesn't evaporate easily. A better approach is using a dechlorination filter system designed to remove sediment, heavy metals, and chloramines.
If you want perfect yes. But I use such system and in warm weather 3-4 days is good enough. It all depends on money spent and value returned. If it didn't work my soil wouldn't be alive and my buds wouldn't be so damn big and sweet. I can build any system I want but the question is why? I'm just a hobbyist that grows my medicine. But if I wanted to play with building water treatment systems or maintaining expensive ones then I would for hobby sake. But I'm probably going to work on a tea brewing system. Different interest for different people. I like your system for home use so if you can combine both great. I worked in commercial water filtration for a while and my employer had wealthy people that had custom systems in their houses. One house had dechlorinated water piped through half the house because the wife was a princess type and chlorine kills your skin. Another person had a big pool built out of stone and mortar that had trout in it. Everything was automatic for this mineral enhanced massive fish pond, even heat in the winter and cold in the summer. Plus perfect mineral balance and water filtration. A $200,000 fish pond in Canada. I worked in product development but my buddy in service requested me on interesting jobs, what a pal. Because of him I seen some cool rich people stuff. A guy with a massive 8 car garage with super oversize stalls and all sealed terra cotta floor. His water system was not interesting. And the best was putting a Desal system on a small island for a rich man. He took us there daily by helicopter, YES!
 
MIGrampaUSA

MIGrampaUSA

2,178
263
If you want perfect yes. But I use such system and in warm weather 3-4 days is good enough. It all depends on money spent and value returned. If it didn't work my soil wouldn't be alive and my buds wouldn't be so damn big and sweet. I can build any system I want but the question is why? I'm just a hobbyist that grows my medicine. But if I wanted to play with building water treatment systems or maintaining expensive ones then I would for hobby sake. But I'm probably going to work on a tea brewing system. Different interest for different people. I like your system for home use so if you can combine both great. I worked in commercial water filtration for a while and my employer had wealthy people that had custom systems in their houses. One house had dechlorinated water piped through half the house because the wife was a princess type and chlorine kills your skin. Another person had a big pool built out of stone and mortar that had trout in it. Everything was automatic for this mineral enhanced massive fish pond, even heat in the winter and cold in the summer. Plus perfect mineral balance and water filtration. A $200,000 fish pond in Canada. I worked in product development but my buddy in service requested me on interesting jobs, what a pal. Because of him I seen some cool rich people stuff. A guy with a massive 8 car garage with super oversize stalls and all sealed terra cotta floor. His water system was not interesting. And the best was putting a Desal system on a small island for a rich man. He took us there daily by helicopter, YES!
I think you need to research chloramine. It literally takes months to dissipate from a water source. You can filter it out or you can use chemicals to neutralize it. It This probably isn't an issue in a salts based grow but it's a huge issue with organics. It kills the microbes.
 
SativaKid

SativaKid

53
18
I think you need to research chloramine. It literally takes months to dissipate from a water source. You can filter it out or you can use chemicals to neutralize it. It This probably isn't an issue in a salts based grow but it's a huge issue with organics. It kills the microbes.
I will look it up. But usually with chlorine type things. The chlorine dies in killing the life. I polish with a bit of bacteria per gallon and let it sit for a day. The bacteria I add is a bit of mixed banana tea or diluted fish emulsion.
I think you need to research chloramine. It literally takes months to dissipate from a water source. You can filter it out or you can use chemicals to neutralize it. It This probably isn't an issue in a salts based grow but it's a huge issue with organics. It kills the microbes.
I will sounds interesting. I've not worked in water for over 25 years. Thanks for the tip!
 
freezeland2

freezeland2

2,019
263
If you want perfect yes. But I use such system and in warm weather 3-4 days is good enough. It all depends on money spent and value returned. If it didn't work my soil wouldn't be alive and my buds wouldn't be so damn big and sweet. I can build any system I want but the question is why? I'm just a hobbyist that grows my medicine. But if I wanted to play with building water treatment systems or maintaining expensive ones then I would for hobby sake. But I'm probably going to work on a tea brewing system. Different interest for different people. I like your system for home use so if you can combine both great. I worked in commercial water filtration for a while and my employer had wealthy people that had custom systems in their houses. One house had dechlorinated water piped through half the house because the wife was a princess type and chlorine kills your skin. Another person had a big pool built out of stone and mortar that had trout in it. Everything was automatic for this mineral enhanced massive fish pond, even heat in the winter and cold in the summer. Plus perfect mineral balance and water filtration. A $200,000 fish pond in Canada. I worked in product development but my buddy in service requested me on interesting jobs, what a pal. Because of him I seen some cool rich people stuff. A guy with a massive 8 car garage with super oversize stalls and all sealed terra cotta floor. His water system was not interesting. And the best was putting a Desal system on a small island for a rich man. He took us there daily by helicopter, YES!
A good cheap non elaborate filter on Amazon that removes chloramine

Garden Hose Filter - Removes Chlorine, Chloramines, VOCs, & Pesticides/Herbicides https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007I6MN7...t_i_0GVWW0A8EDZQCKSAS68D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
 
SativaKid

SativaKid

53
18
That's really all you need. Filter system does not need to break the bank. I use a very similar filter outside for my garden and greenhouse. I use a different system inside though.
I'm just starting to look up Chloramine. I'm pretty sure it is nasty stuff even before I start my readings but my city does not use it, asked a guy on facebook that I know works in that department of our city. Lets hope they don't go "new and improved" anytime soon. Thanks again.
 
SativaKid

SativaKid

53
18
That's really all you need. Filter system does not need to break the bank. I use a very similar filter outside for my garden and greenhouse. I use a different system inside though.
GSC 6E 13 16
 
ComfortablyNumb

ComfortablyNumb

5,770
313
Seeds are the most important thing. Soil is second. But I'm going to tell you about soil because your committed. I always feel good about helping someone that is committed. So peat based soils is my choice because eventually you can overcome the weaknesses of Peat and it can be really good if you recycle it and grow only natural. It's dirt cheap up in the North and is the basis of every branded soil as in Promix. The biggest problem with peat moss is it's very acidic. So to mellow it through the batches to a neutral state. When you reach neutral and alive after running a few batches of plants your buds will be giant and dripping wet. You wont use any fakes nutes or calmag. So you start with a lot of soil and a clean garbage can to store extra soil in between batches. Start by adding 30% Perlite to the Pro Mix or Other Peat Based Soil. This will help lower the PH because by volume Perlite is close to 7.5 Ph. And each batch I add about 1/2 a cup of Gaja Green Power Bloom 2-8-4. It's mostly bone meal that helps to raise the Ph. And next I add 1/8 teaspoon dolomite lime to my 20 gallon dechlor barrels(garbage cans) and this will gradually raise the ph of the soil. And lastly use extremely lightly fish emulsion to fertilize in veg and banana peel tea to fertilize in flower. So my best tip buy 4 clean pliable garbage cans that you can stack in a nest. Because in off season you store your soil in then and can mix soil in there a bit. Plus you need 2 Dichlorination barrels for water. It takes 3-4 days to get the chlorine out so you rotate barrels.
I agree, but this is the hard way to do it.

We do it the easiest way I've been able to figure out so far.
We build a living soil, add the MBE's (Microbes, Bacteria, Enzymes) and let it cook for two weeks to increase their population count before planting. Done.

This is how we do it ---> SF1000 goes Organic in our 2x4 | THCFarmer
 
SativaKid

SativaKid

53
18
I agree, but this is the hard way to do it.

We do it the easiest way I've been able to figure out so far.
We build a living soil, add the MBE's (Microbes, Bacteria, Enzymes) and let it cook for two weeks to increase their population count before planting. Done.

This is how we do it ---> SF1000 goes Organic in our 2x4 | THCFarmer
Good way for sure. My process is evolving to the sweetest natural soil and teas, and headed your way as I learn.
 
SativaKid

SativaKid

53
18
@SativaKid Nice flowers. What strain?
This strain and others are in the bud growing seeds right now. I'm stoked. Trying to start a private seed trading club with 6-10 members where everybody has to send one batch of fire seeds they grew to the other members. Everybody makes 5-9 new friends, receives 5-9 batches or 5 fems or 10 regulars seeds of something noteable and sends 5-9 batches of his best grown strain.
 

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