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First Time Indoor Grow 3k Sq Ft

  • Thread starter Thread starter WestsideCali
  • Start date Start date Jun 30, 2016
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First Time Indoor Grow 3k Sq Ft

WestsideCali Jun 30, 2016 60 Replies 8,082 Views
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WestsideCali

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#21
m8ty said:
Botanical insect killer garden soap works very well.
Click to expand...
Is this something I spray at night? How often can I use it?
 
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noone88

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#22
We all use this one:
 
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noone88

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#23
IPM = Integrated pest management

OGs are finicky and not easy to master. Very little room for error and everything needs to be dialed in. Plus its a 70 day crop versus an 8 weeker. Even if you decide to stay with OG's, your quality will be a grade B at best. Yield will be low also.

I would grow a cash cropper, something like Blue dream of GDP. They are resilient to drought and overwatering and strong natural defense toward pests. You need something fast and consistent if you want to learn. And then rinse and repeat for 3-5 years.
 
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WestsideCali

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#24
noone88 said:
We all use this one:
Click to expand...

New
Just ordered it! Looks like a huge help! Thank you!
 
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Wildill

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#25
Do you plan on running co2 in those rooms
 
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WestsideCali

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#26
Wildill said:
Do you plan on running co2 in those rooms
Click to expand...
Yes. The room is set up to be between 1100-1500 ppm c02 during day and off during night
 
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Savage Henry

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#27
Out of curiosity what does your runoff ec look like (numbers wise) if it's +/- 0.3 ec from your feed ec then it's a sign that that plants are over or underfed.
 
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WestsideCali

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#28
Savage Henry said:
Out of curiosity what does your runoff ec look like (numbers wise) if it's +/- 0.3 ec from your feed ec then it's a sign that that plants are over or underfed.
Click to expand...
What is "ec" abbreviated for? Oh when we feed is always 5.9-6.0 and nutes are around 1000ppm. We dos a runoff yesterday and got a ph of 6.6 and 600ppm
 
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Savage Henry

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#29
WestsideCali said:
What is "ec" abbreviated for? Oh when we feed is always 5.9-6.0 and nutes are around 1000ppm. We dos a runoff yesterday and got a ph of 6.6 and 600ppm
Click to expand...

Electrical conductivity. Ec is a pretty deep topic, I suggest searching around here and Google for some thorough reading on the subject. For the sake of this discussions it can be used as another way to measure ppm.

Anyway, I'm thinking the yellowing and such on your leaves is a sign of a deficiency based upon your runoff readings. I'd up your fertilizer concentration until the runoff equalizes with it.

Edit: also do a search in here for grow journals from user @nMEEKS. Quite an education.
 
Last edited: Jul 1, 2016
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MSH

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#30
Congratulations on the grow op and good luck with it. It looks like you have a Mg def, post pics in the infirmary section to get better help with that.

I don't know how big your plants are at this stage but if they are still "teens" you can mix a solution in a bucket using whatever pesticide you think will work (I use rosemary oil) and dunk every plant completely in that solution. I recommend taking them out of the room and doing it there and clean clean clean the room before they go back inside it.
 
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Spectre

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#31
Sorry to hear you got dirty clones. That's expected in southern Cali, and even northern Cali nowadays. Making your own clones will save you a lot of money and frustration in the future. Another problem is the mites you got have probably been hit with every chemical under the sun by now from the original cloners. The only thing that would get rid of them would be an Avid/Forbid/Floramite regimen w/ three days between spraying. These chems will linger in your flowers no matter what since you're already flowering.

Another suggestion would be to simplify your nutrient schedule. Seeing as you're fairly new to large-scale production, this will also save you money and a lot of confusion about what's wrong with your plants until you dial in the environment, which is always number one. I'd recommend General Hydroponics Flora Micro & Flora Bloom w/ some CalMag. After you're more comfortable with how things should be running, you can tailor your nutrient solution to the strains you're running.
 
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WestsideCali

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#32
MSH said:
Congratulations on the grow op and good luck with it. It looks like you have a Mg def, post pics in the infirmary section to get better help with that.

I don't know how big your plants are at this stage but if they are still "teens" you can mix a solution in a bucket using whatever pesticide you think will work (I use rosemary oil) and dunk every plant completely in that solution. I recommend taking them out of the room and doing it there and clean clean clean the room before they go back inside it.
Click to expand...

We lit off the last pyrethrum foggier last night and this morning they were still visible. It's not awful... No webbing or anything but I want to eliminate them. I'm gonna continue to hit them with Nuke Em every three days for now.

You've got me thinking....we have a second flower room that's still empty. It'll be very time consuming to clean them one by one but do you recommend bleaching that empty room then transferring them? They were in veg for 4 weeks now almost done with the second week of flower. They are reaching the trellises which is placed 45" above the tables.

You can see we have nice new growth...but the discoloring of the lower flowers has to be from the mites right?
 

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WestsideCali

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#33
Spectre said:
Sorry to hear you got dirty clones. That's expected in southern Cali, and even northern Cali nowadays. Making your own clones will save you a lot of money and frustration in the future. Another problem is the mites you got have probably been hit with every chemical under the sun by now from the original cloners. The only thing that would get rid of them would be an Avid/Forbid/Floramite regimen w/ three days between spraying. These chems will linger in your flowers no matter what since you're already flowering.

Another suggestion would be to simplify your nutrient schedule. Seeing as you're fairly new to large-scale production, this will also save you money and a lot of confusion about what's wrong with your plants until you dial in the environment, which is always number one. I'd recommend General Hydroponics Flora Micro & Flora Bloom w/ some CalMag. After you're more comfortable with how things should be running, you can tailor your nutrient solution to the strains you're running.
Click to expand...


Sounds good. We did a runoff and noticed the ppm were still around 550 so they weren't taking many of the nutrients. We did a couple days of just RO and some of these recharge shells(pictured below) in the mixture to help stop any nutrient locks.
 

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Spectre

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#34
The plants look droopy and overall unhappy.

What's your environment like? Temps and RH?

The leaf damage isn't from the mites. It's likely from your nutrients. If you don't have an EC meter, we need you to tell us the conversion for the ppm, which is either 500 or 700. EC is just easier because it's universal.
 
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MSH

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#35
Yeah those plants sure look unhappy and the discolouration is your nutes/evironment. like I said above post a pics in the infirmary and get proper help diagnosing what it is that's wrong - because something is wrong, not just mites.
 
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WestsideCali

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#36
Set at 500 on the . Temperature of the room is set at 78 with humidity that stays around 40%. The meter is set at 500.
Spectre said:
The plants look droopy and overall unhappy.

What's your environment like? Temps and RH?

The leaf damage isn't from the mites. It's likely from your nutrients. If you don't have an EC meter, we need you to tell us the conversion for the ppm, which is either 500 or 700. EC is just easier because it's universal.
Click to expand...

Set at 500 on the . Temperature of the room is set at 78 with humidity that stays around 40%. The meter is set at 500.
 
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WestsideCali

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#37
MSH said:
Yeah those plants sure look unhappy and the discolouration is your nutes/evironment. like I said above post a pics in the infirmary and get proper help diagnosing what it is that's wrong - because something is wrong, not just mites.
Click to expand...
I agree the plants don't look very happy and I would love to tackle that. When you say infirmary I'm assuming you mean flower room while lights are on. The photos always have this yellowish hue to them because of the lights. I'll take photos of the Full plants, multiple leaves closeup. Anything else in particular I can take photos of that may help diagnose?
 
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MSH

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#38
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/forums/cannabis-infirmary.57/

This is the infirmary, post pictures there including environment description etc and you will most likely get help fixing your problem.

Take pictures while lights are off or take a plant outside the room and take pictures of it there so it's not under the HPS lights.
 
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WestsideCali

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#39
MSH said:
https://www.thcfarmer.com/community/forums/cannabis-infirmary.57/

This is the infirmary, post pictures there including environment description etc and you will most likely get help fixing your problem.

Take pictures while lights are off or take a plant outside the room and take pictures of it there so it's not under the HPS lights.
Click to expand...

This is great! Didn't know at all about this section and I appreciate you clarifying. I will take a flower out on my next trip and take some photos under normal light and update everyone with some of the thermometer and humidity readings. Thank you.
 
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Spectre

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#40
WestsideCali said:
Set at 500 on the . Temperature of the room is set at 78 with humidity that stays around 40%. The meter is set at 500.
Click to expand...

First off, you need to raise your humidity. 40% is way too low. You need to be at 60% minimum and 70% would be ideal. Your temp is also low for a room with co2. 85 degrees would be better.

So as of now you're feeding around 2.0 EC and your feeding schedule has you topping out at 3.4 EC during week 7. This is ridiculously high. Either you should be on the 700 conversion scale or your feeding schedule is way too heavy.
 
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Replies 60
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Started Jun 30, 2016
Latest post Jul 19, 2016
Starter WestsideCali
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