Bretzy420
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Is azamax safe to use on indoor plants? I had some diatomaceous earth so I coated the bottom of the leaves using a makeup brush and put a good layer on the top soil for now.You probably need a magnifier to be able to see them but it does seem to be mites. The picture with the underside of the leaf looks like it's full of eggs.
What are you thinking of using to remove them? I like to use a product called Azamax for mites.
Yeah it's safe, I've only used it as a soil drench though. Wondering how @PooToe is using it?Is azamax safe to use on indoor plants? I had some diatomaceous earth so I coated the bottom of the leaves using a makeup brush and put a good layer on the top soil for now.
My first thought as well... now if he's got a gang of calcium already in the soil then maybe it's a lockout? just read the OP more thoroughly.. seems like it's been 8 days since he top dressed, the amendments need to be broken down into a usable nutrient for the plant. That could take 14 days, and that's if there's a healthy thriving soil full of biodiversity, bacteria, fungi, protozoa, etc. Easily done by adding some compost and/or earthworm castings. Lot to take in if your not accustomed to the garden. The quick fix until all that gets settled is daily foliar sprays. And quick means about two weeks the same unfortunately bit it'll work. Get some compost (BAS has some real good stuff) in there asap. Good luck man.Spider mites leave tiny white spots on the leaves, and I don't see any. They live on the underside of the leaves. I need magnification to see them, so I can't tell if they're mites from the pictures. To me, it looks like a nutrient problem--possibly calcium. The yellowing pattern resembles nitrogen deficiency. I wouldn't rule out over watering, as well. I'm wondering about the pH, as well. Organic nutrients usually don't require pH adjustment.
Thank you so much man I really appreciate it. I'm glad that it's hopefully not mites I've heard terrible things. I did buy some boogie brew black fly larvae frass when I first bought my nutrients. Do you think that would work or should I buy some compost and/or worm castings? Thank you again!My first thought as well... now if he's got a gang of calcium already in the soil then maybe it's a lockout? just read the OP more thoroughly.. seems like it's been 8 days since he top dressed, the amendments need to be broken down into a usable nutrient for the plant. That could take 14 days, and that's if there's a healthy thriving soil full of biodiversity, bacteria, fungi, protozoa, etc. Easily done by adding some compost and/or earthworm castings. Lot to take in if your not accustomed to the garden. The quick fix until all that gets settled is daily foliar sprays. And quick means about two weeks the same unfortunately bit it'll work. Get some compost (BAS has some real good stuff) in there asap. Good luck man.
I just adjusted my ph to 5.5 in my reservoir I'm using a tray2grow system and the collector reads almost 6ph exactly. It was pretty high Saturday like 6.8. I just got my established plants moved over to it. Those are the ones that started to show those signs on some leaves so I was confused and concerned. They've been on the system about 9 days now. Could the high ph cause a lockout possibly? I haven't top watered at all just letting it ride on the system top watered when I applied the Dr earth top dress waited a few days and moved them to the system.Spider mites leave tiny white spots on the leaves, and I don't see any. They live on the underside of the leaves. I need magnification to see them, so I can't tell if they're mites from the pictures. To me, it looks like a nutrient problem--possibly calcium. The yellowing pattern resembles nitrogen deficiency. I wouldn't rule out over watering, as well. I'm also wondering about the pH. Organic nutrients usually don't require pH adjustment.
Compost/Worm castings have all the magic to make everything you drop in the soil work. I have to point out that the pH of organic soil runs a little higher than what bottle fed nutrients use. Bottled fed nutrients work best between 5.5-6.5 abouts.. organic soil works its magic between 6-7 pH.Thank you so much man I really appreciate it. I'm glad that it's hopefully not mites I've heard terrible things. I did buy some boogie brew black fly larvae frass when I first bought my nutrients. Do you think that would work or should I buy some compost and/or worm castings? Thank you again!
I foliar apply for mites and other bugs.Yeah it's safe, I've only used it as a soil drench though. Wondering how @PooToe is using it?
My understanding is the stuff is a concentrated active ingredient of neem oil. It freakn works. It's my go too when all else fails. I was initially skeptical to the product and scoffed at the guy at the hydro store for trying to sell it to me, didn't faze him, I'm small beans compared to his usual costumers...lol. But we had an unusual pattern of weather last year that brought in these gnats like crazy. I had no choice almost. The Azamax did the job. What ratio do you use for foliar sprays?I foliar apply for mites and other bugs.