flora nova bloom additives

[splakdawg]

Hey wassup farmers have a quick question for the farm that hopefully some of the good knowledgable folks here can answer.
I plan on doing a run in coco using flora nova bloom as my base and wanted to know what additives should i use. I usually use big bud and overdrive as my additives , and silica and molases and sensizyme in intervals. Thx in advance guys

 

[souf69]

Ive ran Fn with Od and pro tekt silica and had great results. Dont forget the cal mag. Are you doing drain 2 waste?

 

[splakdawg]

Im doing hand watering
I forgot to mention cal magis a stable in any ofy gardens so its alwayson hand, i run alot of kushes and chems. I see u only mentioned o.d and nothing to replicate big bud or big bud does that mean its not needed

 

[souf69]

Hand watering is cool, just dont let em dry out to much. Ive never really been a fan of big bud, maybe someone else will chime in and give their opinion. Are you running any teas from cap or any type of bennies?

 

[splakdawg]

Yea im running great white. Brewing up their first tea as we speak

 

[Seamaiden]

I've done it using Koolbloom, both formulae (dry & liquid are different) at very low doses beginning every 10 days after flipping. I included molasses, again at very low doses, and used MgSO4 (Epsom salt) at the rate of 1g or 1/4tsp/gal, alternating with a 6% organic Ca. I learned with the FNB to start very low, I start at 2mls/gal.

I personally detest the combination Ca:Mg products. Their ratio of Ca:Mg is too low, IMO/IME. Once I separated them, I could feed them alternately, could feed much more Ca without overdoing the Mg, which is what many plants, especially anything that's like The White, want and need. I strongly suggest everyone who runs coir try using Ca separately from Mg, for those reasons and a few more.

1) You can ensure that your plants will never develop a Ca-. Because Ca is immobile, once detected by the grower it's usually too late, often just before the plants are ready to finish.​

2) Mg- are extremely easy to correct, and it's too easy to use too much Mg because the ratios are usually 2:1 or 3:1. This ratio of Ca:Mg is too low, the lowest ratio IME/IMO is 4:1, and 6:1 is even better.​

3) Once experienced, you will NEVER confuse a Mg- with a Ca- again! There is no such thing as a Cal-Mag deficiency UNLESS the plants are deficient in both at the same time.​

4) Because they're not being combined in every feed, you can push higher levels of other nutrients, including micronutrients.​

​

I noted some differences using the old dry formulation of Big Bud, but that had aminos in it, and everything AN can be done SO MUCH cheaper it's stupid.

Yea im running great white. Brewing up their first tea as we speak

You probably want to know that you'll likely be undoing, or actually killing the microbes that you're culturing if you push these chemical salts too hard. Go very easy on them. That serves a dual.. no, triple purpose of disallowing salt build-ups to occur in the root zone, and it'll save you some scratch, too.

 

[splakdawg]

I've done it using Koolbloom, both formulae (dry & liquid are different) at very low doses beginning every 10 days after flipping. I included molasses, again at very low doses, and used MgSO4 (Epsom salt) at the rate of 1g or 1/4tsp/gal, alternating with a 6% organic Ca. I learned with the FNB to start very low, I start at 2mls/gal.

I personally detest the combination Ca:Mg products. Their ratio of Ca:Mg is too low, IMO/IME. Once I separated them, I could feed them alternately, could feed much more Ca without overdoing the Mg, which is what many plants, especially anything that's like The White, want and need. I strongly suggest everyone who runs coir try using Ca separately from Mg, for those reasons and a few more.

1) You can ensure that your plants will never develop a Ca-. Because Ca is immobile, once detected by the grower it's usually too late, often just before the plants are ready to finish.​

2) Mg- are extremely easy to correct, and it's too easy to use too much Mg because the ratios are usually 2:1 or 3:1. This ratio of Ca:Mg is too low, the lowest ratio IME/IMO is 4:1, and 6:1 is even better.​

3) Once experienced, you will NEVER confuse a Mg- with a Ca- again! There is no such thing as a Cal-Mag deficiency UNLESS the plants are deficient in both at the same time.​

4) Because they're not being combined in every feed, you can push higher levels of other nutrients, including micronutrients.​

​

I noted some differences using the old dry formulation of Big Bud, but that had aminos in it, and everything AN can be done SO MUCH cheaper it's stupid.

You probably want to know that you'll likely be undoing, or actually killing the microbes that you're culturing if you push these chemical salts too hard. Go very easy on them. That serves a dual.. no, triple purpose of disallowing salt build-ups to occur in the root zone, and it'll save you some scratch, too.

Thx for the insight seamaiden and i dontmix my teas with anything chem related. Just ewc, bennies , molasses and kelp

 

[Seamaiden]

Floranova is a chemical salt fertilizer, and while the numbers look low, my plants respond as though they're very concentrated.

Guaranteed analysis: Total Nitrogen 4.0% (Ammoniaical Nitrogen 0.25%, Nitrate Nitrogen 3.75%); Available Phosphate 8.0%; Soluble Potash 7.0%; Calcium 4.0%; Magnesium 2.0%; Sulfur 2.0%; Chelated Iron 0.1%. Also contains non-plant food ingredient Humic Acids derived from leonardite 0.1%. Derived from: Ammonium Molybdate, Ammonium Phosphate, Calcium Nitrate, Potassium Nitrate, Potassium Phosphate, Potassium Borate, Magnesium Sulfate, Cobalt Sulfate, Copper Sulfate, Manganese Sulfate, Zinc Sulfate, Iron DTPA.

Like I said, as long as you go easy you should be golden. Start low, then work your way up as the plants respond, and keep things flowing through the coir so as to avoid salt build-ups.

I used to use the following recipe before I went all-organic, alternating with the FNB, I would use 15mls/gal Fox Farms Big Bloom + 1T molasses/5gals, as the drench. To this I might have added Ca or Mg, but because this acts as a mild feed + flush, I preferred to keep those to alternating with FNB feeds, FNB+Ca, or FNB+MgSO4.

Worm castings can be used also as top-dressing, or mixing directly with the coir (as long as you're careful not to use too much, otherwise can make the mix sludgey and heavy).

 

[altitudefarmer]

Roots Organic H-P-K (0-5-4) bloom booster for organic results with FN.
I have run FN with only Epsom salts 1/4 tsp/gal, the occasional kelp boost, and HPK with great results in soil and soilless. In coco I'd bet you need a calcium boost.

 

[pussOGbrah]

seamaiden you know ur shit..ca/mg ratios are so important in coco as they compete with each other in the medium. This is why i think head/rez formula is not good in coco unless your in mid-late stretch and supping lots of ca.

i use equal parts micro/bloom gh + some calplex in coco veg-first 10 days flower.. the ca/mg ratio is 5:1 +some ca from added calplex.


does anyone have a good calcium supp that doesnt have any mag and is readily available? Calplex is getting discontinued i think. I went out and bought 2 5 gallon jugs down to my last one

 

[Seamaiden]

Calcium-25, CaNO3, so account for that nitrogen in your mix. Be careful handling it, do NOT get the granules wet!

I wish I felt as confident in my knowledge level as you, I feel I have so much to learn yet. There are a lot of other members and mods here who I feel know quite a bit more than I do, but I will take your compliment and thank you for it. :)

 

[pussOGbrah]

the ca 25 is interesting but isnt it cal chloride, not cal nit? Also seems like its meant as a foliar? do you use as foliar or handwater?

it kinda looks similar to cutting edge plant amp.

Im scared to add a lot of calchloride to my medium because of ph swings and chlorine (not sure if enough to kill bacteria/fungi)

I wish some nute company started making a nice clean, chelated, soluble and available calcium carbonate product like gh calimagic, but with out the iron and magnesium nitrate..

 

[Seamaiden]

Oh shit, is it? I was going off memory, not the container. I use it as both a foliar and root drench. I don't like CaCO3 because of its effects on alkalinity and pH. With the Ca-25, I use about a teaspoon/gallon, am an organic grower and haven't seen anything that indicates it's killed microbes or macrobes.

 

[pussOGbrah]

i still appreciate the suggestion and will store the ca-25 in brain vault for later use in another application ;seems like a good product.

I actually just found a really good possible replacement for calplex..

Age old organics makes ca-libur 20, -meant for soil application or foliar-, which is 20% calcium carbonate +"plant gums" (whatever they mean by that).. They say use 5ml a week seems high @ 20%ca but i could see using it at 1-2ml a gallon with each feed in coco.

pretty stoked on this as its hard to find pure calcarb in soluble/chelated form.

 

[pussOGbrah]

oh and ive never seen any neg reactions on ph from the calplex (calcarbonate), everything good over here fwiw. But ive always been worried about it affecting ph, but what is the alternative? Gypsum might work, but i dont like the extra sulfur at all, and i dont want to amend coco in any way. Cant use calnit in flower because it has N which i cut at day35..

 

[Seamaiden]

IIRC, Yosemite Sam (seems to be gone from ICM, not a regular poster here) has a recipe using gypsum that's pH stable. Just can't remember what it is or where to find it. Hrm.

 

[pussOGbrah]

yeah gypsum is really ph stable thats the big +.

I just dont like the added sulfur that comes with it, i kno i have enough in my base feed.

I also dont want to deal with the whole amending my coco thing cause its extra work, and the control you get with bottled nutes is sweet. otherwise just do soil ya know?