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Flushing is a bad practice based on flawed science.

  • Thread starter Thread starter YarraSparra
  • Start date Start date Jul 19, 2014
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Flushing is a bad practice based on flawed science.

YarraSparra Jul 19, 2014 567 Replies 149,711 Views
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DO IT

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#261
What strain??? Looks a lot like the tangerine dream I got.
 
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Seamaiden

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#262
midwestdensies said:
Most grapes are dry farmed anyway for max flavor. Well the "head stash" stuff.
Click to expand...
I SO wish that were true. I wish (wishing in one hand vs shitting in the other..!) that agricultural water use were monitored, at the very least, so that the 15% of total use would not be that which is carrying 100% of the burden to save it. Literally.
shoestring said:
Yes. Leaching (as it is correctly called in the straight horticulture and gardening world ) because of a ph imbalance, to remove accumulated salt build up in the root zone, or to correct an over fertilized soil is quite different than what we indoor marijuana growers call flushing. Not many mj growers heard of or employed the so called ''technique'' of flushing before the internet and more specifically overgrow.com. Funny that really good marijuana that tasted and smelled great was being grown with hydroponics and in spare rooms and basements all over the globe WAY before this. If one could read up on the actual science behind plant nutrition and how and why plants take up minerals through the leaves and roots they would find that ''flushing'' the way its done in the majority of grow rooms accomplishes very little and quite often is detrimental to plant health in all but the very last days before harvest.
Click to expand...
Leaching is necessary because so many growers overuse their fertilizers. Again, that's a "hittin' the bottom line" kinda thing in my world.
 
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MedicineFarm

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#263
thank you for the complement!! my drip frequency is 20 sec on one hour off 24/7 so i never go above 900ppm so it sounds close to your method Fo Sho.
 
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MedicineFarm

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#264
the strain is white fire OG. mmmm tasty.
 
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shoestring

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#265
Thats cool medicine farmer. Is your manifold on actual drippers or is it open quarter inch tubing? I myself would like to hear what coco dtw growers are doing as far as pot size, plant size, ppm, and.frequency/duration of those ppm's. I do open tube no drip 45 sec in one or.2 gallon bags and push it up to 2 45 sec feeds daily about 5 weeks in. Ppm running from 600 to 900 on all varieties iam ripping.
 
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MedicineFarm

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#266
 
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MedicineFarm

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#267
1/2 inch tube to a 3/8 barb to 1/2 pvc. the holes are 3/16 dia. this fits on my six inch par geo quick drain style block. solution just flows out, no pressure, no clogs. the hole is drilled slightly uphill from the flat spot that rests on the block to prevent roots from growing into the dripper.
 
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MedicineFarm

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#268
the 1 1/4 dimension should be 1 1/2
 
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shoestring

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#269
I gotcha. Thats individual sites. Mines just half inch tubing made into a loop with barbed ''L'' and a ''T'' in the front. With quarter inch tubing with stakes nestled in each growbag. If ya dont do it exact sizes some sites get.fed.more or less. They still do but.its negligible. Tried doing a quarter inch ''T'' off of the half inch main tube years ago so i could get a two for one site.with only a one hole punch but it was all uneven flow rates. Best use a single barbed quarter inch fitting.
 
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MedicineFarm

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#270
with this set up i am feeding 12 sites with a 396 gph pump and because there is no resistance it just flows evenly throughout with minimal hesitation in the dripers at the end of the run.i don't know if its because of the larger diameter or what but i never have issues with uneven distribution. this set up gives me four corners of love on each 6 inch block.
 
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MedicineFarm

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#271
sorry to stay a bit off topic, seeing the results so far i will never go for a 10 day "flush" again but it will depend on the final results after the cure. i am also going to test for ppms in the final product as well.
so much fun trying new things, this site is the shit!!!!
 
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shoestring

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#272
Yeah mf. I can dig it. I got 4 to 6 tables depending on season. Winter rocks!!. 2 3x6 ers with 4 600's and 2 to 4 4x4's with 1000's over each. Got 6 40 gallon trash barrels from h depot with a thousand gph aqua whatever pump fer each table. So i can dial in a strain or 2 similar per table. Works fer me. Ive ran small building grows years ago but ive scaled back. For houses with basements in michigan about 4000 to 8000 is about as hobby as i wanna get.
 
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shoestring

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#273
Pvc frame.net trellis is bomb. Especially.2 tier but.yer timing has gotta be on point to catch them floppy heads. Lol
 
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KiLoEleMeNt

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#274
Ok so back on topic again let me ask this about flushing why has no one mentioned. Flush from a bottle(or perhaps they did and I missed it in the blur) however i use a full black label line in a 55gal hydroponic system. when it's the last three days I dump the tank fill with ro water and add the recommended amount of FLUSH from a bottle??? not just plain water and I don't fade none of that it's 1800-2500 ppm all the way depending on what it is I am growing! Someone like to chime in on why I am the only one using FLUSH FLUSH and not just water (and if your gonna say cash i don't Wana hear it thanks)
 
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midwestdensies

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#275
KiLoEleMeNt said:
Ok so back on topic again let me ask this about flushing why has no one mentioned. Flush from a bottle(or perhaps they did and I missed it in the blur) however i use a full black label line in a 55gal hydroponic system. when it's the last three days I dump the tank fill with ro water and add the recommended amount of FLUSH from a bottle??? not just plain water and I don't fade none of that it's 1800-2500 ppm all the way depending on what it is I am growing! Someone like to chime in on why I am the only one using FLUSH FLUSH and not just water (and if your gonna say cash i don't Wana hear it thanks)
Click to expand...
First and foremost I'm trying to learn and never claim to be right. Im extremely interested In everyone's process and everytime has something to learn/contribute...
With that said I'm using ro and feed extremely light with my base. Max 5 ml which equates to. 500ppm and I usually feed 4-4.5 from late veg until mid week 7. Then I drop base to 2 ml per gal which is around 200 ppm or so.
Then last 7-10 days after runoff is down to similar in to out ppm it's strait water. And I get stellar results that never make peoples throats rough. Which is a bigger factor at play...
Many things taste great etc etc but does your throat get the rasps when trying to sleep or just plain chill and enjoy the ride?.. For me my meds are smooth. Always . I still am open to try some methods bc I've grown organically and not flushed with amazing results but not with my bread and butter rooms. Thanks for listening and staying open to methods I know I will always be open to others.
 
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midwestdensies

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#276
A little nug porn to send good vibes for diversity
 
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MedicineFarm

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#277
KiLoEleMeNt said:
Ok so back on topic again let me ask this about flushing why has no one mentioned. Flush from a bottle(or perhaps they did and I missed it in the blur) however i use a full black label line in a 55gal hydroponic system. when it's the last three days I dump the tank fill with ro water and add the recommended amount of FLUSH from a bottle??? not just plain water and I don't fade none of that it's 1800-2500 ppm all the way depending on what it is I am growing! Someone like to chime in on why I am the only one using FLUSH FLUSH and not just water (and if your gonna say cash i don't Wana hear it thanks)
Click to expand...
hey brother, good to hear you! are those ppms from the bottle or is that what ur res is reading?
 
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DO IT

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#278
taken from wiki... Not the best source but until I find something else this should do...

  • Nutrients are moved inside a plant to where they are most needed. For example, a plant will try to supply more nutrients to its younger leaves than to its older ones. When nutrients are mobile, symptoms of any deficiency become apparent first on the older leaves. However, not all nutrients are equally mobile. Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are mobile nutrients, while the others have varying degrees of mobility. When a less mobile nutrient is deficient, the younger leaves suffer because the nutrient does not move up to them but stays in the older leaves. This phenomenon is helpful in determining which nutrients a plant may be lacking.
Basically what you are doing in bloom when you flush, you forcing the plant to move essential nutrients to the flowers. The reason is because that is the soul purpose of BLOOMING, it to creat flowers( BUD). This is why your leaves yellow out instead of the bud. The plant takes all of the essential nutrients and pumps them into the BUD. This is the reason all your leaves die and the Bud stays green.
 
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KiLoEleMeNt

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#279
@MedicineFarm those are my actual rez read outs I have tried so many ways of doing my ppm and ec but i have found starting at 400 - 500 ppm and then every week bump it 300 - 500 ppm depending on what the plants say until I hit 15-1800 ppm 2.8 Ec then I chill on it do my flip and if I see no leaf curl or any signs of over feed I will bump 200 ppm even evey two weeks either till 2500 ppm 3.5 Ec or until I see an issue then just back off a bit on the ppm and N I have found this way to work best for me because if I feed light I get fluffy buds and if I feed only what it is supposed to get according to the bottle i feel they lack in size and yield so in the end 72 hours I use the flush nutrients bottle and i have never had a black bowl or harsh nugget (unless it was screwed already-bugs-mold-other) now I know some of you will call this bad practice but i have been around the block a few times and have to say it's the way it works for me best just like toping off not dumping the rez every two weeks I only dump rez two times during entire grow at flip and at flushing (unless there is some real issue) however keep in mind i use lots of other stuff with my black label to allow it to do this as well such as O2 it's and oxygen nutes basically peroxide high amounts of humic acid, molasses, kelp, and the occasional cal mag +
 
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KiLoEleMeNt

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#280
@midwestdensies I have tried to feed that low a few times and never had good yield off of it but you are correct in it being a sound way to grow I am a huge supporter of don't over feed (however I am a hypocritical joke on this matter) but i also feel that if you have the cash for the nutrients and can flush super well then I see no problem with going all the way up to 2500 (if you have heavy feeders and do it gradually) I only recommend doing something like this in hydroton because it is real easy to kill your entire crop ( I never have but in soil yes at this numbers ) by putting so much into rockwool or soil it will burn the roots but just 10 min of plain water on hydroton and bare root every few hours seems to work super for me
 
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Thread info

Replies 567
Views 149,711
Started Jul 19, 2014
Latest post Oct 9, 2023
Starter YarraSparra
Forum General Indoor Growing

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