Flushing made easy...

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altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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Ok guys, I'm dialing in the organic "super soil" technique, and so far, I've had to flush all but 3 of my girls, and as I was performing a correctional flush today, I realized that it took me years to figure out how to do it easily and get it right. Not a difficult task, but skipping steps can turn it into a nightmare. I was thinking maybe i could save a noob or two some time, and maybe save their grow. I hate to flush, almost as bad as I hate to admit that I screwed up and need to do it!
This is not the final flush, although it can be used that way, to get your final flush started.
This is for when you have nutrient problems, and the book says to flush and feed with a mild complete fertilizer...
Anyhow, here goes.

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First, you need a plant with a disorder, duh. This Purple HeadKnocker is in super soil, and is being seriously overfed, along with a Potassium/phosphorous deficiency, due to pH issues. Organic nutrients will not "burn" your plants, but will cause stunted growth. As you can see her leaves are tiny, and have been that way for a bit now. The first sets of fan leaves died due to the pH problem, and were removed.

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Grab a 5 gallon bucket w/lid, and use a hole saw to cut some holes in the lid. This is the collection bucket for our runoff.

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Put your girl on top of the bucket, so runoff will flow right down into the 5 gal bucket. If you know whether or not your pH is high or low, you have a good starting point. I'm battling low pH, so I adjusted the pH of my flushwater to 7.7. If you have no idea, start with RO water or pH it to 7. Our target is between 6.2-6.8, in soil. Begin the flush SLOWLY. It's best to use a "shower head" style watering can, so the water is oxygenated and doesn't flood the pot too quickly. You want to avoid an inch of water sitting on top and soaking slowly into your soil. I use 2 cups to start, wait 5 min, and use 2 more cups. After another 5-10 min, your soil should be pretty wet, and you can go a little faster. you still want to avoid a quick flood, or your soil will get packed tightly and cause another set of issues. It's always good to use a fast draining soil, so packing does not become an issue.

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When the water has drained through the soil into the bucket, put the pot and plant back into your pot tray to catch anything still slowly draining. Check your pH. I checked it after 2.5 gallons of 7.7 water went through, and the pH checked in at 6.08.
Rule of thumb for a good flush is to use 3x the volume of your pot. This 4 gallon pot will get about a ten gallon flush, because I'm too pressed for time to wait on the last couple gallons, and I only have 2 extra 5 gal buckets.
Since 6.08 is not in the ideal range, the next 4 gallons of flushwater I adjusted to 8.3. When I measured the runoff, it came out to 6.20. That's in our target range, so I finished the flush with the 8.33 water. The 3rd and final measurement with 3.5 gallons of runoff came out to 6.38. Very nice!
Since this is super soil and I know I didn't flush all the nutrients out of the soil, I'm not going to add any ferts. If you were feeding with liquid fertilizer only, your soil should be severely depleted of nutrients, and at this point, you'd want to whip up a MILD batch of fertilizer, and adjust the pH to slightly higher than your target range (in my case, I'd use 6.9-7 when adding ferts).

You can use this technique for just about every nutrient overdose/deficiency that you'll run into. It's often better to correct a deficiency this way, rather then just adding the deficient nutrient. Many times the quick way will throw off your pH or the balance of fertilizers in your soil.

Hope this helps; happy to answer questions, comments, rebuttals, snide remarks, etc... I'll post pics of the purple HeadKnocker in a few days and see how the technique works. Keep your gardens green (and purple, in some cases). Peace
 
true grit

true grit

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Just curious, I know the rule of thumb is several times your pot size volume during flush but why is that? And I'll be honest, when i was running super soil TK suggested keeping up with intake pH and runoff pH. I did so when trying to figure out a lockout issue which I attributed to being too high or pH, when I really now think it may have been VPD issues and Calmag deficiencies. I checked runoff ph for about a week, saw no consistencies after a flush (as in it would stay steady for a few days, then right back to fluctuating)... stopped sweatin it. 2nd round, it was micro deficiencies, and I still think it was environmental issues.

Bout to repot some younger plants and give the super soil another go, but this time I will be not be paying attention to pH other than making sure its above 7 or so and I will feed kelp and calmag every watering (yes I know I could just add lime to the mix, but I wanna play and see if thats whats lacking)...and might just use tap on plants.

Don't know if u remember me talkin bout talking to sub, but turns out he DOES NOT use RO, and DOES NOT ph his water. He said he and a friend did a year long side by side ph'ing vs. not in the soil and found no considerable difference. BUT, he did say he just uses tap that is somewhere around 7.2.... quite a bit less precise than directions insinuate.
 
S

SYDAM23

Guest
Nice tip with the bucket..can i ask how long did u flush for b4 ur harvest and how often did u flush....once a day? 4 times a week?
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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'sup SYDAM- I only flush when I have a pH issue or nutrient deficiency/toxicity, and then for the final two weeks before harvest. The idea of a flush is to adjust pH and rinse excess nutrients out of the soil. If you're further than 2 weeks out, you'll want to add a mild complete fertilizer solution to restore nutrients you should have flushed out. The idea is to restore the proper nutrient balance so that all the nutrients are readily available. In super soil, however, I have not reintroduced major amounts of nutrients after a flush, only kelp and/or molasses.
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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still flushing...

Here's a couple shots of the system I use for larger containers. I also want to add that I try to flush in a staging area outside the garden if possible, and I keep a spray bottle of H2O2 to sanitize the system between each plant. This helps prevent the spread of any pests/diseases thru the flushing system.

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I also want to add that I've found that runoff can give false readings at times, and I now prefer using the $75 soil probe to see the general area of where my soil pH resides. The supersoil recipe I use (basically Subcool's) keeps the pH right around 6.3-6.5 throughout the bloom cycle, as long as the beneficial bacteria stay happy and healthy.
 
lazarus718

lazarus718

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Don't know if u remember me talkin bout talking to sub, but turns out he DOES NOT use RO, and DOES NOT ph his water. He said he and a friend did a year long side by side ph'ing vs. not in the soil and found no considerable difference. BUT, he did say he just uses tap that is somewhere around 7.2.... quite a bit less precise than directions insinuate.

Picked up on that too Grit...Sub just throws tap on them and doesn't bother with RO or pH-ing it. That's how I roll too. Most soils have good buffering capacity and his SS definitely is a stable one.
 
lazarus718

lazarus718

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Good thread Altitude, just came across it but was wondering when you suggest initiating the final flush...5 days before harvest, a week?
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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final flush

My preference is a two-week flush with only humic/fulvic and possibly a little molasses (2 tsp/ 5 gal! just a touch) at first. In most of my grows I use all-organic nutrients, but you still do not want high levels of phosphorous in your buds when you chop. I avoid a "flushing agent" whenever possible, but would recommend it for a soil grow with non-organic nutrients, at least on the first day of final flush.
Now I also must admit I've given up to 4 week flushes on test strains that did not finish as fast as I thought, haha! Those poor girls were pretty much starved by the end.
 
lazarus718

lazarus718

626
28
My preference is a two-week flush with only humic/fulvic and possibly a little molasses (2 tsp/ 5 gal! just a touch) at first. In most of my grows I use all-organic nutrients, but you still do not want high levels of phosphorous in your buds when you chop. I avoid a "flushing agent" whenever possible, but would recommend it for a soil grow with non-organic nutrients, at least on the first day of final flush.
Now I also must admit I've given up to 4 week flushes on test strains that did not finish as fast as I thought, haha! Those poor girls were pretty much starved by the end.

So on your two week flush now..do you soak through your soil every time and at what intervals? Do you just water without feed or do you actually flush?
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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Water w/o feed until I have a fair amount of runoff. In the end, water only. I usually water every 3-4 days, depending on how fast they're drinking. So they get flushed/watered about 3-4 times the last 2 weeks.
 
lazarus718

lazarus718

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Water w/o feed until I have a fair amount of runoff. In the end, water only. I usually water every 3-4 days, depending on how fast they're drinking. So they get flushed/watered about 3-4 times the last 2 weeks.

Nice bro, great thread...I haven't ever gone as heavy with nutes as I'm planning on doing in my current grow so really wanted to get a solid flush in before harvest. Think I'm going to employ the molasses this time as well. Thx for the info man, I'm sure it'll help many!!!
 
R

robz

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I just put a 5 gal. bucket with holes drilled in the sides upside-down into a 10gal. Rubbermaid trash tote to catch all my flush water.
 
altitudefarmer

altitudefarmer

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Nice. My back doesn't like moving liquid-filled rubbermaids, so I keep the weight a little more manageable, although it means more trips to the yard to dump the runoff nutrient/water.
 

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