Fungus Gnats In Hydro Ton?

[SodaLicious]

hello farmers. I recently setup a 4 plant r d w c. Plants have been in the system for 10 days. I've noticed little black fly looking things on top of the plastic i use to cover the buckets.

If they are gnats is it because I'm watering to much?

200 gph Eco submerge able pump
1/2" main feed with 2 1/4" spaghetti lines top feeding into hydro ton about 2" below surface. Constant feeding night and day.

5 gallon buckets 1" return lines Gravity back to rez which is 40 gallons.

Water temp 70*.

Room temp 72*

1 600 watt metal halidte 24" from plant tops.


Any suggestions?

 

[Seamaiden]

Bump!

 

[latewood]

Not surte why you have pests. Sprinkle some food grade codex Diatomaceous Earth on your medium; This will get rid of the gnats or whatever, and kill the newborn after the eggs hatch.

As some advice. I would not run my solution when lights are off. We do not feed the plants at night; they can operate off of stored nutrients; although, plants do not feed unless they are receiving light.

 

[SodaLicious]

Not surte why you have pests. Sprinkle some food grade codex Diatomaceous Earth on your medium; This will get rid of the gnats or whatever, and kill the newborn after the eggs hatch.

As some advice. I would not run my solution when lights are off. We do not feed the plants at night; they can operate off of stored nutrients; although, plants do not feed unless they are receiving light.

I have run systems identical to this one before and always top fed. I will shut it off in their dark cycle. Wait they are on 24hr. I might bump it down to 20/4

 

[latewood]

Cool. I see. Sometimes it is hard ot exactly understand what the other totally means. Thanks for the clarification. 20.4 is better if you ask me. PLants; Like Humans; Need rest. Peace

 

[cephalopod]

Are you sure they're fungus gnats and not root aphids? I'd be putting out sticky cards right away and looking for bi-valves at the end of the abdomen and inspect your roots and net cup for crawlers.

 

[cephalopod]

 

[cephalopod]

 

[SodaLicious]

Are you sure they're fungus gnats and not root aphids? I'd be putting out sticky cards right away and looking for bi-valves at the end of the abdomen and inspect your roots and net cup for crawlers.

Thanks for the advise. I have some sticky cards that will get put in right away

 

[cephalopod]

Next time you do a res change you can drop a little dish soap in and just top up with plain water until you're at the point of over flowing your buckets, run for 10-15 mins drain, rinse, refill. If you have any crawlers or adults this should push them out of you cups and hydroton and at least give you some kind of idea what you're dealing with. Also you can start pulling hydroton out from around the stem looking for eggs and crawlers. Otherwise the popular treatment is a systemic Merit [imidacloprid] and it seems like I see all kinds of different recommendations on the p.h.i. times. I think the fact that you're in hydroton vs. soil will work in your favor. Best of Luck and as crazy as it sounds, heres to hoping on gnats. If you're not planning on using ladybugs or other predators, spread some tangle foot around your stem [I like to use some tape around my stem first to avoid putting a petroleum product directly on my plants] and some more tf around your net cups. [I'd use tape there too.]

 

[Seamaiden]

Good advice if these are indeed RAs, assuming you're not in flower. If you use imidacloprid, you begin a PHI clock of 60 days.

 

[SodaLicious]

Thanks for the replies. Nippon further investigation there seems to be no flies anymore. I did put the sticky trap out and looked at the hydro ton. Doesn't seem to be any crawlers.

 

[SodaLicious]

I checked the sticky trap today. No signs of pests. Maybe just some random bugs. I do use a passive system so it's possible. I will watch closely over the next couple weeks. The roots are just coming out pf the net pots. should I raise my water level now? I have about 4" in the buckets now.

 

[cephalopod]

Good advice if these are indeed RAs, assuming you're not in flower. If you use imidacloprid, you begin a PHI clock of 60 days.

I have read state agriculture papers that place it from 7-21 days, I've seen 90-120 days and some of the tree and shrub says up to a year. The agriculture applications are using imidacloprid in the 40% and 50% concentrations, where as the bayer stuff seems to be at 1.4% and .72%. I'm not saying that it makes for a shorter half life, but when I read those state papers, it really made me wonder.

 

[cephalopod]

I checked the sticky trap today. No signs of pests. Maybe just some random bugs. I do use a passive system so it's possible. I will watch closely over the next couple weeks. The roots are just coming out pf the net pots. should I raise my water level now? I have about 4" in the buckets now.

Yeah you should be able to drop your level to below the cups an inch or two is where I like to start.

 

[Seamaiden]

I checked the sticky trap today. No signs of pests. Maybe just some random bugs. I do use a passive system so it's possible. I will watch closely over the next couple weeks. The roots are just coming out pf the net pots. should I raise my water level now? I have about 4" in the buckets now.

Definitely continue to do so. While I see no signs to suspect RAs, it really is better to be proactive on these things because once you see the plants decline, it's a real battle.

I have read state agriculture papers that place it from 7-21 days, I've seen 90-120 days and some of the tree and shrub says up to a year. The agriculture applications are using imidacloprid in the 40% and 50% concentrations, where as the bayer stuff seems to be at 1.4% and .72%. I'm not saying that it makes for a shorter half life, but when I read those state papers, it really made me wonder.

Indeed. I no longer use it and didn't find relief for my RA issue when I did, Triazicide was the "winning" ticket for me. In this scenario I figure it's better to take the most cautious approach, since many of us directly consume what we produce. The farmers who use this stuff regularly...? Probably not so much.

For the PHI, I went with the information that came with the product, Merit75, IIRC. It's been a few years, thank GOD.

 

[SodaLicious]

After another close inspection there is no sign of any pests. Nothing on the sticky trap and nothing on the rocks. Things are looking good. I will post an update picture tonight

 

[SodaLicious]

My humidity is way to low. The plants sedm fine but I know they would be happier with a higher RH. It's currently at 20% and I can't seem to raise it. I put a cool must humidifier in the room bug because it's a passive exhaust system it seems any humidity introduced is quickly replaced with the new air being brought in. Any ideas or suggestions?

 

[cephalopod]

My humidity is way to low. The plants sedm fine but I know they would be happier with a higher RH. It's currently at 20% and I can't seem to raise it. I put a cool must humidifier in the room bug because it's a passive exhaust system it seems any humidity introduced is quickly replaced with the new air being brought in. Any ideas or suggestions?

I'm thinking a ultrasonic humidifier/fogger, maybe something alongs the lines of a swamp cooler on the in-take. Bubble some buckets of water in there too? Personally I might change the corrugated hoses for something smooth walled, but if they're not a problem rock'em. Glad to hear you're pest free.

 

[SodaLicious]

I'm thinking a ultrasonic humidifier/fogger, maybe something alongs the lines of a swamp cooler on the in-take. Bubble some buckets of water in there too? Personally I might change the corrugated hoses for something smooth walled, but if they're not a problem rock'em. Glad to hear you're pest free.

I like the bilge hose for flexibility. The intake is passive from a room below.