Mrb53 said:

BUG OFF - 100% Organic non-GMO - a foliar that can be used all the way to harvest, and leaves entirely zero residue, and it scrubs, cleans, conditions, protects the plant, even gives it potassium and pure vitamin c, which both get absorbed though the stomas, and also though the dermal layers of the plant. This stuff will even hold water (hydroscopic) during times of heat stress, and reduce (lower) the freezing temp of dew on the plant. It uses bio-organic methods (bacteria, nano micelle colloidal particles) that attack the bugs ability to digest things, inactivating their digestive enzyme capacity, starving them, inhibit their ability to make proteins, Dissolving their exoskeleton, dissolving the newborns, and eggs. It's a multi-prong strategy that basically kills them by multiple avenues. comes in 20ml bottles for $30. Dilution ratio 15ml per gallon of water. Effigy is 2 weeks after mixing, shelf life 1 year. Just ask ME!

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A foliar treatment would not help with fungus gnat much. The larvae are in the media. Seems like a super high $ price for it. Only one gallon of mix for $30?

A foliar spray is all that is needed for the substrate...$30 for a gallon - at 20ml, there is more than a gallon...It does not kill adults, they die off, it kills eggs, larvae, soil/substrate bound insects. Can also be used as a watering treatment for deep rooted insects. With potassium and Vit c, it actually helps the plant.
I treat my 32 Sq Ft tent (over 20 containers) with just a standard spray bottle (less than 1 quart). with about 5 bottles per treatment, that works out to about USD$7.50 a treatment. It does not pay for me to make smaller bottles but everyone who has purchased this have had issues resolved in 1 to 2 treatments, with same bottle. I had 1 user use the entire bottle but they were treating an entire grow room (over 250Sq Ft, including exhaust tubes, fans, equipment...for MOLD. With mold, you just have to make sure you spray everywhere and not miss any spots. If mold is already tunneling in the buds, sorry, NOTHING FIXES THAT....LOST CROP
Unmixed, shelf life 1 year. Mixed - 2 weeks..treats gnats, white fly, thrips, even mites (mites will require to be washed off the buds..no other product can do this without affecting taste, potency, and at FLOWER TIME...NO MOLD! Will prevent mold for the 2 week effigy.
Also controls MOLD and can serve as a residue / cleanse without touching / harming the THC. No other product on the market can do this..and all organic..you can drink this stuff.

BogartAmungus said:

Has anybody tried beneficial nematodes for gnats? I was actually going to start a thread asking about using nematodes in your pots. I know its best to keep soil moist so that might be a deterrent. I am going to try some in my garden and around the lawn for grubs and mostly for Ants. Hope to kill the queens. But it also said effective for fungus gnats.

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Yes. I've had some early pest issues that are starting to look much more under control. Plants got burned making them much more susceptible and I started noticing white flies along with thrips. Bugs always get in through the vents, it's just part of it.
I got the triple threat nematode product from arbico for my veggie beds and greenhouse. The shops seem to sell them by 30,000-50,000 populations and is usually S. feltiae. That is the same species that attacks fungus gnats.
I innoculate every few days for a couple weeks coinciding with my watering schedule and try to keep the soil moist while they are active. Once the food source is gone, the nematodes kind of just die off so you might have to re-inteoduce them as your pests occur.
Diatomaceous earth is supposed to be pretty good for soil gnats in general but you don't want to breathe it in at all.
H2o2 or hydrogen peroxide when used in the appropriate concentration can be effective at killing the larvae, and probably the eggs as well.
Evaluate if you're over-watering and adjust appropriately, they have a much harder time in a drier environment

I fix em with this one drench and top dress if I need to with DE easy fix . Od hope you can get it sorted use yellow sticky traps for the flying adults as well .

Mrb53 said:

A foliar spray is all that is needed for the substrate...$30 for a gallon - at 20ml, there is more than a gallon...It does not kill adults, they die off, it kills eggs, larvae, soil/substrate bound insects. Can also be used as a watering treatment for deep rooted insects. With potassium and Vit c, it actually helps the plant.
I treat my 32 Sq Ft tent (over 20 containers) with just a standard spray bottle (less than 1 quart). with about 5 bottles per treatment, that works out to about USD$7.50 a treatment. It does not pay for me to make smaller bottles but everyone who has purchased this have had issues resolved in 1 to 2 treatments, with same bottle. I had 1 user use the entire bottle but they were treating an entire grow room (over 250Sq Ft, including exhaust tubes, fans, equipment...for MOLD. With mold, you just have to make sure you spray everywhere and not miss any spots. If mold is already tunneling in the buds, sorry, NOTHING FIXES THAT....LOST CROP
Unmixed, shelf life 1 year. Mixed - 2 weeks..treats gnats, white fly, thrips, even mites (mites will require to be washed off the buds..no other product can do this without affecting taste, potency, and at FLOWER TIME...NO MOLD! Will prevent mold for the 2 week effigy.
Also controls MOLD and can serve as a residue / cleanse without touching / harming the THC. No other product on the market can do this..and all organic..you can drink this stuff.

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I think I understand it a little better. Is this something you are making? I could not find any info on Bug Off anywhere. So the 20 ml of concentrate makes a little over a gallon of mix at 15 ml per gallon that will kill just insect larvae or eggs? But not mature insects.

What I do not get is how much of a hassle using these products, that are hazardous (look at the warning labels, look up the ingredients). By the time you finish messing around, your time, the effort...you think it is worth it compared to "mix with water, spray"?

Rootbound said:

I think I understand it a little better. Is this something you are making? I could not find any info on Bug Off anywhere. So the 20 ml of concentrate makes a little over a gallon of mix at 15 ml per gallon that will kill just insect larvae or eggs? But not mature insects.

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Yes, it is a home made nano micelle solution...Kills off the offspring to end the perpetuation of the species but does not affect the plant or adults. Adults will not live long enough to take down the plant (unless you are so infested the plant is already ready for the trash)

Ok here we go to start with if u use coco and and soon as u see one or two there will be lots coming out as they are starting to hatch so the larvae have been there for awhile so the theory is if u get them it's because of smelly rotten roots and the green algae build up for them to feed on if your grow is good and healthy roots u won't get them ... the other way is using organic food which hasn't cured right or the larvae is in it e.g. worm juice the best way is to have taps on pots to fill the pot right up e.g. drench it for 10 mins then flush it out and I have sum in brain left for the next to feed then flush it till tub has got rid of smell and set it back with chems again because soon as u dreach they come out to get away and come back again after so the next to feeds will get them and break the cycle

Earth worms eat the eggs and larvae to so it's a must to add worms if u use organic soils to eat roting vegetation in the organic soil or there is white crytal rocks which stops them to as it meant to cut them like razor blades but to have them in room. Is why are they there in first place e.g. root problems

I used Neem oil mixed in sprayer. Sprayed the floor of the tent inserted tray. Sprayed tray. Then during Veg state I sprayed the plants and the floor again. Have a 16” fan set to medium speed pointed at wall and not plants for circulation and it has kept the gnats to a minimum. I will see a few here and there but they have not been a problem. At least on this run. I have about 3 more weeks on the current grow. I will incorporate some of the suggestions I have seen in this thread as well which will hopefully remove them completely.

Mrb53 said:

BUG OFF - 100% Organic non-GMO - a foliar that can be used all the way to harvest, and leaves entirely zero residue, and it scrubs, cleans, conditions, protects the plant, even gives it potassium and pure vitamin c, which both get absorbed though the stomas, and also though the dermal layers of the plant. This stuff will even hold water (hydroscopic) during times of heat stress, and reduce (lower) the freezing temp of dew on the plant. It uses bio-organic methods (bacteria, nano micelle colloidal particles) that attack the bugs ability to digest things, inactivating their digestive enzyme capacity, starving them, inhibit their ability to make proteins, Dissolving their exoskeleton, dissolving the newborns, and eggs. It's a multi-prong strategy that basically kills them by multiple avenues. comes in 20ml bottles for $30. Dilution ratio 15ml per gallon of water. Effigy is 2 weeks after mixing, shelf life 1 year. Just ask ME!

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Do you have a link to the product you are using?

St.Cloud said:

Do you have a link to the product you are using?

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We are in the process of setting up the website...no link for now, just a description here and the description from before

100% organic non-GMO Plant based PH and protease inhibitors (several), homemade solution is using bio-organic methods (bacteria, nano micelle colloidal particles (over 26) and Vitamin C, potassium to help in growing and root protection for young plants) that attack the bugs ability to digest things, inactivating their digestive enzyme capacity, starving them, inhibit their ability to make proteins, Dissolving their exoskeleton, dissolving the newborns, and eggs. It's a multi-prong strategy that basically kills them by multiple avenues. This stuff will even hold water (hydroscopic) during times of heat stress, and reduce (lower) the freezing temp of dew on the plant. It's a nano particle that can clean an oil on one end, but it's connected to a water molecule on the other end (water miscible). They are nanosized colloidal dispersion's prepared from amphiphilic molecules, with a hydrophobic tail and a hydrophilic head. The hydrophobic core acts as a reservoir for hydrophobic drugs (or nutrients, enzymes) and the hydrophilic shell stabilizes the hydrophobic core. When It comes in contact with THC, it basically "scrubs" it, but leaves no residue, in fact, it removes residue. Prevents and kills ANY type of mildew (disclosure - will not address / treat mold already tunneling inside the buds....sorry but too late if it has reached that point). Originally $30 per 20ml, now pre- selling at $20 per 20Ml bottle...for limited time. Shipping not inc. Just ask here and we can arrange...Paypal, MO, cash, etc...Please chose Insect or Mold control. Can also be used as a residue cleanse (New formulation Fresh & Clean). When It comes in contact with THC, it basically "scrubs" it, but leaves no residue, in fact, it removes residue (Scientific = It cleans by it's molecular structure, it's able to get really close to the trichomes without actually touching them, and it captures little impurities, or can deposit medication or nutrients with it's little structure. Micelles act as emulsifiers that allows a compound that is usually insoluble in water to dissolve, inserting the long hydrophobic tails into the insoluble dirt while the hydrophilic head face outside and surround the nonpolar dirt. aka, the contaminates get "stuck" in them, then are washed away).

I use BTi. Use it in the first watering with your soil and then maybe once a month. Gnatrol, mosquito bits, microBElift. All the same for the most part. Concentration is different. microBElift is the best price imo

Homesteader said:

I use BTi. Use it in the first watering with your soil and then maybe once a month. Gnatrol, mosquito bits, microBElift. All the same for the most part. Concentration is different. microBElift is the best price imo

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We got our insights from BTI...It just wasn't enough. There was SO MUCH more a beneficial bacterial could do if the micelles were added, so we tested and IMPROVED SUBSTANCIALLY

St.Cloud said:

I used Neem oil mixed in sprayer. Sprayed the floor of the tent inserted tray. Sprayed tray. Then during Veg state I sprayed the plants and the floor again. Have a 16” fan set to medium speed pointed at wall and not plants for circulation and it has kept the gnats to a minimum. I will see a few here and there but they have not been a problem. At least on this run. I have about 3 more weeks on the current grow. I will incorporate some of the suggestions I have seen in this thread as well which will hopefully remove them completely.

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If you’re in dirt you can top dress neem meal (6-1-2) to the soil or soak the meal and use it as a drench (then top dress with the used neem). You can also use the soak in a sprayer (if you filter), so you won’t have any oil residue on your stuff. (I only use the oil on the actual plant.)

So help me understand...oil, any oil, leaves a residue on the plant. Oils at flower time do not only leave a horrible taste on the product but they are also dangerous. I keep seeing all these alternative to organic methods that are safe, digestible, value added but people keep coming up with all these "difficult to use, messy, require excess time and effort, use ingredients and processing methods that have placed some of the ingredients on the dangerous / banned lists but people continue to use them.
This is why we developed our OWN product. We got tired of companies putting profit above our safety, lying and misleading facts
DO you think our solution is too exepensive at $20 for ml (like $4 a spray bottle with 5 applications per bottle)? And treats Mold, Pests, and residue while adding Vitamin C and Potassium

If u see a couple your pots are full of larvae like I said as they are starting to hatch so u think they are not doing much but the larvae eat the fine feeder roots and make your weed like when u have spider mites and lose weight and taste shit plant still grows and u think they don't do much but they are making your plant sick they even borrow up in the main stem and give u collar rot I place moth balls near my enter door or hang them off stem on plant to keep them away but they there because of the smell of decomposition u see them in your lawn around the cut wet lawn clippings as it decomposed so that's what attracts them so use a sterilizer for first 3 weeks to kill all bad bacteria in medium and in plant first and use a good quality compost organic food that has the larvae already removed in processing not back yarder stuff

Mrb53 said:

So help me understand...oil, any oil, leaves a residue on the plant. Oils at flower time do not only leave a horrible taste on the product but they are also dangerous. I keep seeing all these alternative to organic methods that are safe, digestible, value added but people keep coming up with all these "difficult to use, messy, require excess time and effort, use ingredients and processing methods that have placed some of the ingredients on the dangerous / banned lists but people continue to use them.
This is why we developed our OWN product. We got tired of companies putting profit above our safety, lying and misleading facts
DO you think our solution is too exepensive at $20 for ml (like $4 a spray bottle with 5 applications per bottle)? And treats Mold, Pests, and residue while adding Vitamin C and Potassium

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Yes. I can sprinkle $1 of Bti, approved for organic farming, and end a gnat problem. I don’t see anyone suggesting spraying neem oil during flowering, and it’s fine to spray on vegging plants. Personally I wouldn’t use it to kill gnats (as Bti is so much cheaper/easier, and if I used neem in soil I’d use a meal) but it’s a good naturally pesticide for PM preventative, kills adult gnats, mites, whiteflies, aphids, thrips, cucumber beetles, leaf miners, spittlebugs, grasshoppers, etc.

St.Cloud said:

I used Neem oil mixed in sprayer. Sprayed the floor of the tent inserted tray. Sprayed tray. Then during Veg state I sprayed the plants and the floor again. Have a 16” fan set to medium speed pointed at wall and not plants for circulation and it has kept the gnats to a minimum. I will see a few here and there but they have not been a problem. At least on this run. I have about 3 more weeks on the current grow. I will incorporate some of the suggestions I have seen in this thread as well which will hopefully remove them completely.

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this forum aint big enough for both these profile pics

Ghosttrainx said:

Ok here we go to start with if u use coco and and soon as u see one or two there will be lots coming out as they are starting to hatch so the larvae have been there for awhile so the theory is if u get them it's because of smelly rotten roots and the green algae build up for them to feed on if your grow is good and healthy roots u won't get them ... the other way is using organic food which hasn't cured right or the larvae is in it e.g. worm juice the best way is to have taps on pots to fill the pot right up e.g. drench it for 10 mins then flush it out and I have sum in brain left for the next to feed then flush it till tub has got rid of smell and set it back with chems again because soon as u dreach they come out to get away and come back again after so the next to feeds will get them and break the cycle

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You can still have a fungus gnat problem with perfectly healthy plants and roots.