Goin hydro!

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Farmer Jon

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Trays, Ebb-n-flow, Rockwool, Chemical nutes (advanced A+B), H202, Chiller...no air stones.

IMO pests are drawn to organic based anything, and if aphids are a problem the first change I would make is the nutrients I used.

Make sure the wool gets dryish between feedings and refresh your res every 3-4 days with H202.
The larger the res the more stable the nutrients will remain.

The chiller may not be required but it is a nice fail safe.

The most common problems I have seen arise with this method occurs with frequent over waterings, or allowing algae to build up giving nats, white-fly's and other pests a nice place to grab a snack (h202 keeps the algae in check).
FJ
 
Chronic Monster

Chronic Monster

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. Sadly, root aphids will attack in hydro just as fast as in soil.

WTF :sign0065:

Damn I didn't know that... I see some root aphid threads on another site(which are scarier than any movies I have seen in the last 10 years, lol)

Is it harder, easier or about the same when dealing with the root aphids in a hydroponic environment.
I guess the type of hydro system would make a difference..

What about aero or (r)dwc???? (what I do the most).

Do root aphids fly? Anyone got a good up close and personal picture I kinda wrote them buggers off being a hydro guy.. Think I need to know my enemy a little better..*maybe someone can drop me a link, or post a pic*

Im really looking forward to your thread Motarebel, always fun trying something new :) :joint:
 
Snowblind

Snowblind

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Guys please JACKS HYDROPONIC with added CALCIUM NITRATE. Its dirt cheap!!!!!!!!!! Ive talked about this at great length on a couple grow threads....its a cannabis specific nutes........why are you all mixing up crap, 22 part mixing charts, all of these additives, wasting your money on BULLSHIT NUTES without even understanding the ppm of what you are feeding your plants relative to the ppm that your plants actually want and need to best utilize specific elements. Please, if you dont know what the exact ppm breakdown is of what in the nutes that you are feeding your plants, then what the hell are you doing? Its called flying blind and Im sure many indoor growers are experienced with this and simply dont care because "bro I get results". Indoor hydro is about understanding a plants most minute details and controling the environment in order to make adjustments and maximizing the results. Anything short of that is a waste of resourses of which time is a big one.

Hydro affords you the luxery of understanding exactly where you are at, at all times with your nutes, specifically in the root zone. What more could one ask for in order to achieve the best results...great yield and great potency with great taste and a clean burn to a white ash........the roots should be your focus.

Whats your N to P to K ratio? You guys thinking about that? How does this relate to your Mg and Ca? What is the difference in these ratios between flower and veg. What does Sulphur as a an element contribute to the final results of growing cannabis?

THE FIRST RULE for Hydro....
1)Indoor Hydro = a sterile grow environment so no organics needed.................ok? Thats a good start. You must embrace this idea.

In a hydro setting im using DUTCH MASTER ZONE at the rate of 1ml per gallon in the reso. This keeps the water nice and clean.......and yes for starting out a simple 4 by 4 white botty flood table over a 50 gallon black active aqua reso (not 40 gallon the black 50 gallon) from hydrofarm with a 400 gph pump is your best best. I like 9 plants per light in DIRT BAGS, similer to smart pots , but cheaper with hydroton work very well. You will only need to flood twice a day cycle as the dirt bags retain a great amount of moisture.

I dont want to rant too much here so I might start a thread in the hydro section.....

Anyway my real point is use Jacks Hydroponic, start with a simple tray flood and drain, try to grow drain to waste, if not frequent changes at least once a week reso changes and grow weed that tastes amazing in hydro.

Also will someone here please post the exact elemental ppm breakdown of their flower formula for shits and giggles?

This is a 2.8-1-4.17 ratio of N-P-K...... I run this throughout flower for a base line nute profile of aprox.... all done with Jacks and Calcium Nitrate....
N...113
P.....41
K....171
Ca...90
Mg...50
S.....65

I add the epsom salt for added Mg for strains such as
StarDawg. The idea is that my balanced formula is very low in terms of overall ppm or ec. Im at 800 ppm at a .5 conversion on my meter. This is very low and the plants grow like crazy. Nice cool feed! Anyone else do this kind of thing?


You can adjust either the amount of Jacks or the amount of CaNo3 to tailor the formula to your needs.

What elemental ppm ratio do you guys grow with in terms of N-P-K in flower? I want to find out why everyone is doing a PK boost?

If so when for how long and how much ppm of P? The plant can only utilize so much P at a time........keep the P at 40 ppm and taste the pleasure!


Stretch panda over the tray like a thin membrane clipped into place, no light should hit the roots ever! Light + nutes + air = algea!

By the way I grow on both tables and with a bucket system. I install 1/2 bi-pass valves on all of the buckets lines. Makes clean-up and managment much easier after opening and closing the valves to control the h2o flow. The simple addition of bipass vavles affords you a lot more control.

Sorry to rant.
 
M

maestro

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Well what I assume bro is yo general knowledge of MJ is top notch. The biggest deal to any change is understanding its fundamentals n you got that down pat bro. No worries. bet you can school 95%+ FARMERS here n 3% of the other 5% heads are so in the clouds...doubt they know what they know.

Hydro should just be an easier n more efficient way to get consistent good yields n have slightly more control all around. I think you'll enjoy just how exactly ya can dial the show in with a nice set up. This whole hobby is very inclined to lean towards each individuals needs n tastes. I loves me some nasty redheads yo likes them mean brunettes...to each his own. A frustrating yet facinating fact about horticulture is you'll never know it all....I ran a SOG nonstop for over 12 years until I got sick,been farmin long before that n raised by an herb farmer n I still learn something every cycle it seems. I Like that.

Hang tough
 
Motarebel

Motarebel

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Hey there Kaya,good to see ya back around!

Thanks for the support maestro,i will get this down.

Snowblind, i'm a big fan of Jack Peter's products. I started off using Peter's professional ferts , then they changed to Jack's classic once they downsized. I have been using the JC to suppliment when the organics didn't work fast enough.
 
heavydutykevork

heavydutykevork

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Anything organic with poop will contain RA and Nats,, soil or hydro they love both. They don't like chem ferts. They have new ebb and flows with 5gallon buckets that I think would work great and very easy to use now cleaning them is a different story. Good luck and karma in ur ventures. Peace and Respect HDK
 
rawman

rawman

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I've personally seen aphids in a RDWC set-up they can live in anything no doubt but if you are switching to hydro though the flow n grows look awesome and making your own RDWC is also awesome!
 
BlackBart

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I would start off with chem ferts just to learn how to dial in your setup ,it will be easier them Organic . Once you get some grows under your belt you could switch over to org. Its a bit trickier (if that's a word ) then the chem ferts . I like PBP myself ...been using it for years as well as Bio Bizz which is a little more of a pain in the ass to use but your bud comes out will killer flav . Don't fuck around, get a good PH and EC meter .
 
GreenThumbBill

GreenThumbBill

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My advice would be to start small, Mota, if you're just getting a feel for it. I found e-n-f trays to be the easiest, if not the most efficient way to grow hydro. Sadly, root aphids will attack in hydro just as fast as in soil. The nice thing is not bringing questionable soil into the grow.
I have had success in the past by baking my soil before introducing it into the garden. Huge pain in the ass, but it'll kill any fungus gnats or root aphids in the mix. 45 min @250. I used a meat thermometer to make sure the temp in the middle was at least 225 before I removed it from the oven. No chemicals required.
Best of luck to you brother. Peace
What kind of container do you put the soil in for the oven?
 
T

tngreen

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ive been coco for years and wont switch. good luck with the choosing, keep it simple.
 
Witchking

Witchking

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I'm doing the same thing Mota. Been in Coco for a year and a half now. I'm looking at doing some DIY DWC tubs or Aero. A buddy of mine does aero and has been trying to get me to switch for a bit, I must admit after seeing his results i'm definenity leaning twords the Areo. Even in coco , he's probably yielding double what I am and his colas are as thick as a man's arm...huge! The only thing that scares me about Aero and kinda about hydro in general is the absolute reliance on your power not going out. If those pumps stop running ...your plants are dead meat, no joke. I also have relized that jumping into hydro will require a signifigant investment in some new equipment that i've never really used before..so we'll see. My goal though is to use up the 2 bags of coco I have left and the next round of clones will go into the new system...and my dozens pots will go on a shelf in the garage.:) Hopefully!
Good to read you mota and have a fine weekend.
~WK~
 
J.P.

J.P.

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yeah really mota,
Some other variables to integrated in your grow...
The timing for the roots spray-oxygen, an access to see the roots (very important for cutting if the buzz of your system is not oriented correctly this avoids the too long internodes on a branch too) ..
You will learn that the pH is very important also, a stabilized is the best ..
For a big B it must be great !
(...)
TakeCare
 
Motarebel

Motarebel

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Well i got a new 12 bucket ebb + flow system to test run from a local hydro store and a bro is sending a 6 bucket RDWC. I'll snap some pics as i go and with your help i'll get the hang of it.
 
cannarado

cannarado

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Well i got a new 12 bucket ebb + flow system to test run from a local hydro store and a bro is sending a 6 bucket RDWC. I'll snap some pics as i go and with your help i'll get the hang of it.

That 6 bucket system will blow it up mang!
 
Snowblind

Snowblind

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If you dont make your own nutes at least by and run from dry powders such as Jacks or Crop King!

No AN ever! They really suck for what they have done to our industry.

No boosters!

No additives!

Simple.....3-1-4......see where that leads you.
 
FLB

FLB

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If you dont make your own nutes at least by and run from dry powders such as Jacks or Crop King!

No AN ever! They really suck for what they have done to our industry.

No boosters!

No additives!

Simple.....3-1-4......see where that leads you.

Well said! I stick with the old reliable GH 3 part. And flush for at least 3 wks with straight RO. And keep it sterile. All the other stuff out there is snake oil. Best of luck playin in the water mota!:banana1sv6:
 
RIVAL79

RIVAL79

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Kick ass, Mota! Good luck with the new gear bro. I'm about to run a 3x6 E&F with 3-600's! What do u plan on running in them hydro setups? Good luck with everything bro. I can't wait to see what comes off this project.
 
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