Log In Register
  • Thread starter Thread starter Don_Keydyk
  • Start date Start date
  • Tagged users Tagged users None

Greetings From Berkeley, CA!

Don_Keydyk 10 Replies 493 Views
Page 1 of 1 · Replies 1–11 of 11
1
Don_Keydyk

Don_Keydyk

Posts
4
Reactions
5
Joined
Aug 24, 2026
Points
3
Hey, all! Glad to be here amongst like-minded folks, and happy to see there are still old-school forums that are thriving despite social media having killed off most of them.

I’ve been wanting to grow for decades, but due to various circumstances and timing I’m just now undertaking my first endeavor with some autos outdoors. I’m thrilled to finally be able to grow my own, but I’ve started running into some issues late. Apologies for how long and possibly boring this might be, but I want to pass on as much info as possible.

I started small and simple with two plants back in June, and everything was going pretty well until fairly recently. The biggest issue I’d faced until then was the weather, which is pretty mild in this part of the Bay Area year round but June and July were especially gloomy and chilly this year.

I started in 1/4 gallon grow bags with a 50/50 mix of coco/Royal Gold Kings Mix, and kept them indoors for the first 10 days after germination before taking them outside to get some diluted sunlight.

When they seemed ready to be outdoors full time, I dropped them into 5 gallon grow bags. The bottom 1/3 of the grow bags had a 50/50 mix of Royal Gold Kings Mix and Nature’s Living Soil for Autos, and the top 2/3 was straight Royal Gold.

I’d been top watering (pH adjusted to 6.3) for the first month or so before switching to a wicking system, but started seeing signs of possible nutrient burn or lockout about two weeks into using the bases (yellowing leaves, and also the tips of the colas). I top watered and the runoff tested at 5.02, so I flushed both plants until the runoff was at 6.3 and went back to top watering every 2-3 days. I should’ve checked the EC, but didn’t think it would be an issue due to the soil I was using. Probably a dumb move, as it was possibly depleted.

This was at the very beginning of the month, and it seemed like the switch back to top watering was the right move, but in the last week I’ve had the yellowing spread through some of the colas and I’m worried that I wasn’t vigilant or proactive enough in making further corrections. I had to be away from home for a bit, and the problem had advanced while I was away.

I initially dismissed budrot because the yellowing areas were firm and not soft to the touch, and I didn’t see any of the telltale signs of mold, but honestly my eyes are dogshit so I should’ve sought out help sooner. The most recent pic I took (today) I pulled the bud apart and can see what *might* be mold below. But again, dogshit vision. I’ve been worried about the heavy humidity here, but was hoping the low dew point would help. Now I’m just hoping at least one of the plants is salvageable here towards the end of flowering, 93 days in.

The autos are from Mephisto. The darker plant is Figgie Smalls, and the lighter one is HubbaBubbaHaze. Aside from the yellowing, and now rusting, the HBH has still been throwing out some white pistils, which surprised me. I kinda thought I’d be chopping at least one of them by day 80 or so.

I’m now seeing some very light yellowing on the FS, and I’m wondering if I should just chop it (if it’s not a mold issue, and there are salvageable areas). I’ve been watching for the trichs to change a little more, they’re still mostly clear. I’d take early over never, though.

Again, I’m happy to be here and grateful for any help and knowledge! I’m sure I’ve forgotten some relevant info, despite the lengthy first post.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4870.jpeg
    IMG_4870.jpeg
    461.5 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4882.jpeg
    IMG_4882.jpeg
    433.4 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4875.jpeg
    IMG_4875.jpeg
    584.6 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4874.jpeg
    IMG_4874.jpeg
    480.7 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4873.jpeg
    IMG_4873.jpeg
    467.4 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4871.jpeg
    IMG_4871.jpeg
    489.4 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4868.jpeg
    IMG_4868.jpeg
    453.8 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4879.jpeg
    IMG_4879.jpeg
    392.3 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4881.jpeg
    IMG_4881.jpeg
    468.7 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4880.jpeg
    IMG_4880.jpeg
    439.8 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4877.jpeg
    IMG_4877.jpeg
    487.5 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4876.jpeg
    IMG_4876.jpeg
    481.4 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4869.jpeg
    IMG_4869.jpeg
    398 KB · Views: 2
It would appear as though pics 4, 5, 6 ,7 and 8 all have bud rot. Pic 11 may also be early stages of bud rot. I dont mess with it at all, have always just thrown away the plant. A couple pictures show a lot purple, so its tough to tell from just a single picture of each plant.
 
So I chopped the areas that were showing the most yellowing, the main cola being the worst by far, and there is definitely bud rot. I cut about two inches below the visibly rotted areas, and there was at least no brown mushy area at the center of the cut. The stem was white and firm, seemingly healthy.

I also cut off a few buds where the tips of both the leaves and buds were showing hints of yellow, but I didn’t see any spores or fungus in those buds when I split them apart. Pics of removed buds and snipped stems for reference, maybe someone with better eyes can take a look and offer feedback.

Is there still a possibility to salvage parts of this plant?
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4887.jpeg
    IMG_4887.jpeg
    365 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4890.jpeg
    IMG_4890.jpeg
    398.9 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4891.jpeg
    IMG_4891.jpeg
    397.5 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4892.jpeg
    IMG_4892.jpeg
    413.8 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4893.jpeg
    IMG_4893.jpeg
    283.5 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4895.jpeg
    IMG_4895.jpeg
    411.9 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4896.jpeg
    IMG_4896.jpeg
    513.8 KB · Views: 2
  • IMG_4897.jpeg
    IMG_4897.jpeg
    429 KB · Views: 2
what i do and works is wherever you cut out the rot spray that area with a mix of water and isopropyl at around 50-60% strength,.
 
what i do and works is wherever you cut out the rot spray that area with a mix of water and isopropyl at around 50-60% strength,.
I appreciate the input! I took an alcohol-coated swab to the cut areas earlier, but didn’t spray. I’ll keep that in mind for future use, though.

Did any of the areas remaining after you’d cut out the rot show any signs at all of rot or other issues? I can’t see anything mold or spore-like in the remaining buds that I’ve pulled apart to inspect, though a few of them have a little bit of yellowing at the tips and on the leaves. I’m hoping it’s a sign of something other than mold.

And did you chop down the rest of your plant immediately after cutting out the rot, or did you let it go until it finished flowering?
 
I appreciate the input! I took an alcohol-coated swab to the cut areas earlier, but didn’t spray. I’ll keep that in mind for future use, though.

Did any of the areas remaining after you’d cut out the rot show any signs at all of rot or other issues? I can’t see anything mold or spore-like in the remaining buds that I’ve pulled apart to inspect, though a few of them have a little bit of yellowing at the tips and on the leaves. I’m hoping it’s a sign of something other than mold.

And did you chop down the rest of your plant immediately after cutting out the rot, or did you let it go until it finished flowering?
the iso normally kills it in its tracks,. if there’s a yellowing leaf from a bud while others are green it usually means the beginning of rot just pull it out as it’ll literally come out easily than i stick the sprayer in there and give a little squirt,. some strains are more resistant than others etc,.
i keep the plants growing until finished as i don’t smoke weed, i make hashish or hash oil,. no mold or fungas can enter the trichome head,.
 
Keep in mind that Nick is using 99.9 Iso that he is whacking in half. Berkeley is probably going to be a rough place for rot! The way the humidity shoots up into the 80s all night thanks to that marine layer. Budro loves that shit! When you get into deep flower! Growing right on the coast presents its own set of problems! Or in this case the bay! Used to visit there a lot in the 70s! Pretty wild back then!😍 Berkeley is a high humidity area! Compared to 10 or 15 miles inland!
 
the iso normally kills it in its tracks,. if there’s a yellowing leaf from a bud while others are green it usually means the beginning of rot just pull it out as it’ll literally come out easily than i stick the sprayer in there and give a little squirt,. some strains are more resistant than others etc,.
i keep the plants growing until finished as i don’t smoke weed, i make hashish or hash oil,. no mold or fungas can enter the trichome head,.
I gave the yellowing leaves a good tug, and all of them seem pretty firmly connected. Non slipped out easily like the ones earlier on the bud site I removed.
Keep in mind that Nick is using 99.9 Iso that he is whacking in half. Berkeley is probably going to be a rough place for rot! The way the humidity shoots up into the 80s all night thanks to that marine layer. Budro loves that shit! When you get into deep flower! Growing right on the coast presents its own set of problems! Or in this case the bay! Used to visit there a lot in the 70s! Pretty wild back then!😍 Berkeley is a high humidity area! Compared to 10 or 15 miles inland!
Duly noted! I’m hoping the problem sites I’ve removed so far will be enough, but only time will tell. I only have 91% iso atm, but I’ll make a mix using it if I have to.
Yeah, the humidity here is through the roof. I was hoping the low dew point would be in my favor, but the last hour or two before sunrise it sometimes drops down below that dew point and gets to the point of condensation. Next grow I’m going to have to find a spot indoors to park the girls by a fan for the night. Or set up an outdoor fan. That should reduce my mold risk by at least a decent amount.
I bet Berkeley was especially fun in the 70’s! You aren’t kidding about the shift in climate over a very short distance. Like you said, 10 or so miles inland and you’re looking at very different conditions.
 
Keep in mind that Nick is using 99.9 Iso that he is whacking in half. Berkeley is probably going to be a rough place for rot! The way the humidity shoots up into the 80s all night thanks to that marine layer. Budro loves that shit! When you get into deep flower! Growing right on the coast presents its own set of problems! Or in this case the bay! Used to visit there a lot in the 70s! Pretty wild back then!😍 Berkeley is a high humidity area! Compared to 10 or 15 miles inland!
I totally agree. I grew in Hayward for years and the marine layer and humidity made for some challenges. Threw away plants every season. Even in the greenhouse.
 
I gave the yellowing leaves a good tug, and all of them seem pretty firmly connected. Non slipped out easily like the ones earlier on the bud site I removed.

Duly noted! I’m hoping the problem sites I’ve removed so far will be enough, but only time will tell. I only have 91% iso atm, but I’ll make a mix using it if I have to.
Yeah, the humidity here is through the roof. I was hoping the low dew point would be in my favor, but the last hour or two before sunrise it sometimes drops down below that dew point and gets to the point of condensation. Next grow I’m going to have to find a spot indoors to park the girls by a fan for the night. Or set up an outdoor fan. That should reduce my mold risk by at least a decent amount.
I bet Berkeley was especially fun in the 70’s! You aren’t kidding about the shift in climate over a very short distance. Like you said, 10 or so miles inland and you’re looking at very different conditions.
91% is fine it’s the same just with more water in it, 70% is the same just the math is different in mixing up a 50% strength,..
 
Page 1 of 1 · Replies 1–11 of 11
1
Back
Top Bottom