Grow #2 - Indoor hydro tent

(Grow #1 documented here: https://www.thcfarmer.com/threads/n...ing-to-feel-like-i-have-a-black-thumb.110586/)

Seeds: 1 x Blueberry Fem Auto, 1 x White Widow Fem - both from Seedsman.com
Since the Blueberry auto doesn't need lights on a timer, I think I can get away with this pairing and just wait to flip the light schedule until WW is ready, even if Blueberry is already flowering.

Germination started July 22nd. (I just use wet paper towels)
Blueberry sprouted July 24th, White Widow July 26th.
Both transferred to rockwool July 27th.

Starting hydro water + anti-fungal only.

I washed down the tent walls with Clorox spray, and soaked the hydro gear + air stones in bleach water to clean up from grow #1. Not sure if this is necessary, but it seemed like a decent idea.

Boring "day 1" picture:
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Couldn't resist peaking in the tent again... there's life!! WW germinated first (I posted the dates backward originally), so she was expected to show first. Still makes me feel a bit better seeing some green peeking out. <newbie feelz>

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BlueBerry finally emerging from the rockwool:
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White Widow making me proud:
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Today marks 12 days from dry seed.

Buckets have 6.5pH water with SouthernAG anti-fungal, and dual air stones. No nutrients.
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
Looking like a good start bro. I would drop ph to 5.6 and top feed every other day until second set of true leave the prob everyday until the roots hit the water. 150-200ppm and they should be happy.
 
Question: I have my dwc set up in my closet that is steady 75-80 degrees. How does one keep the reservoir water cool? Without my intervention, the water sits at 75ish. So I have been putting an ice pack in a ziploc and hanging it inside my 5 gallon res. Also I’m new to this so please be gentle.
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
Question: I have my dwc set up in my closet that is steady 75-80 degrees. How does one keep the reservoir water cool? Without my intervention, the water sits at 75ish. So I have been putting an ice pack in a ziploc and hanging it inside my 5 gallon res. Also I’m new to this so please be gentle.
Imo and I may get some flack from some growers is that 75f is fine. I won't go into the whole ins and outs unless someone wants to. There is a slightly less dissolved oxygen at the temp but it's absolutely doable. The issue is you need to make sure you are either running a sterile system like hydrogen peroxide or a live system like hydrogaurd. This will prevent root infections from occurring and no matter what temp you run one of the 2 is a must. I run my hydro system at 72f. The other important factor is to make sure you have good gas exchange. If you want a cheap way without a chiller put your system on a basement concrete floor and use a small aquarium heater like $30 to maintain your temps. Much cheaper than a chiller.
 
Thanks!! I learned from my last attempt and now Hydroguard is on my list of musts. I wish I had a basement here. I keep hearing mix reviews on hydrogen peroxide though when I was trying to correct my mistakes. Again thanks for your quick response.

Imo and I may get some flack from some growers is that 75f is fine. I won't go into the whole ins and outs unless someone wants to. There is a slightly less dissolved oxygen at the temp but it's absolutely doable. The issue is you need to make sure you are either running a sterile system like hydrogen peroxide or a live system like hydrogaurd. This will prevent root infections from occurring and no matter what temp you run one of the 2 is a must. I run my hydro system at 72f. The other important factor is to make sure you have good gas exchange. If you want a cheap way without a chiller put your system on a basement concrete floor and use a small aquarium heater like $30 to maintain your temps. Much cheaper than a chiller.
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
Thanks!! I learned from my last attempt and now Hydroguard is on my list of musts. I wish I had a basement here. I keep hearing mix reviews on hydrogen peroxide though when I was trying to correct my mistakes. Again thanks for your quick response.
Personally I would stick to hydrogaurd. If you are in the US you can buy a product called southern AG fungicide. It's basically a super concentrated hydrogaurd. Exact same strain bacillus amyloliquefaciens D747. I think it's about 1ml per 20gal to equal the same dose as hydrogaurd and much much cheaper.
 
Imo and I may get some flack from some growers is that 75f is fine.
It's cool this topic came up because water temperatures have been on my mind.

The primary argument against higher water temperatures seems to be the resulting unwanted growth of BadThings(tm). Apparently the smart farmers with pocket protectors and clipboards (no offense intended whatsoever, as long as your pocket protector matches your clipboard) have determined that keeping the water below 70F will keep BadThings(tm) from taking hold. Problem is, keeping the water below 70F is not a trivial task for the budget-minded small grower.

Rotating water bottles between the freezer and reservoir is a pain in the @$$. I don't have a cooler location available to move my tent unless I want to excavate a few yards of soil from my crawlspace. (I am far, far too lazy to even think about this for more than 30 seconds). Active cooling would be either expensive, messy, or both.

My BigPlan(patent pending) for Grow #2 is to maintain a healthy dose of anti-fungal and damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!

If I can't grow DWC without adding more complexity, I'm going to have to try soil. I don't really like soil. I have no respect for it and have always treated it like dirt. (tiny laugh)
 

Aqua Man

Staff member
Supporter
It's cool this topic came up because water temperatures have been on my mind.

The primary argument against higher water temperatures seems to be the resulting unwanted growth of BadThings(tm). Apparently the smart farmers with pocket protectors and clipboards (no offense intended whatsoever, as long as your pocket protector matches your clipboard) have determined that keeping the water below 70F will keep BadThings(tm) from taking hold. Problem is, keeping the water below 70F is not a trivial task for the budget-minded small grower.

Rotating water bottles between the freezer and reservoir is a pain in the @$$. I don't have a cooler location available to move my tent unless I want to excavate a few yards of soil from my crawlspace. (I am far, far too lazy to even think about this for more than 30 seconds). Active cooling would be either expensive, messy, or both.

My BigPlan(patent pending) for Grow #2 is to maintain a healthy dose of anti-fungal and damn the torpedoes, full speed ahead!

If I can't grow DWC without adding more complexity, I'm going to have to try soil. I don't really like soil. I have no respect for it and have always treated it like dirt. (tiny laugh)
Actually the pocket protector ppl are wrong. Bad thing are not caused by temps. In fact pythium is not one species there are various types and they thrive in all temps. The issue with temps is the speed at which it can progress. Warmer temps increase the metabolic rate of bacteria, fungi and plant growth. Also all the beneficial bacteria are aerobic. Pythium can thrive even in anaerobic conditions. So DO is important for not only bacteria bit also plants. But at 75f you may have a slightly lower DO holding capacity but that's not the problem, the problem is the rate of replenishment of DO levels and this is where good gas exchange is important so that as the DO is used up it is replenished as fast as it's being taken from respiration of plants and bacteria. Bacteria blooms can severely increase the demand on o2 and the warmer the water the more respiration occurs from both plants and bacteria as thier metabolic rate is increased and in turn growth rates.

The keep water under 70f is an old partial myth and partial truth.
 
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