humics are "organic matter" mostly really small stuff that's ancient.
important components of humus, the major organic fraction of soil, peat, and coal (and also a constituent of many upland streams, dystrophic lakes, and ocean water)
humic substances were often viewed through a lens of acid–base theory that described humic acids, as organic acids, and their conjugate bases, humates, as important components of organic matter. Through this viewpoint humic acids were defined as organic substances extracted from soil that coagulate (form small solid pieces) when a strong-base extract is acidified, whereas fulvic acids are organic acids that remain soluble (stay dissolved) when a strong-base extract is acidified.
There's probably some cute formula I could give you if I was intelligent enough on this matter. It would probably look something like the following: A- + B+ <=>(A- +C+) (B+ + C-) The arrows indicating greater or equal too.
Essentially, what humics do, is provide some basic building blocks to the puzzle and also allow "buffering capacity"
Buffer capacity (β) is defined as the moles of an acid or base necessary to change the pH of a solution by 1, divided by the pH change and the volume of buffer in liters; it is a unitless number. A buffer resists changes in pH due to the addition of an acid or base though consumption of the buffer.
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The plants look really good BTW, I would keep adding a little potassium anyway you can.
I would use some monopotassium phosphate at this time, pH balanced with some potassium hydroxide.
Watch your runoff ph and adjust accordingly, don't go any extreme, try to keep it right around 6.5 Aqua might have some other advice, or perhaps some of the others, but that's what I would suggest. For what it's worth.
At this point, I'd hit them with a mild dose usually every few days until there finished.
Thanks! The monopotassium phosphate and potassium hydroxide you said about what is that for exactly ? I was trying to keep everything strictly organic but I’m getting a lot of recommendations of using non organic supplements and I’m beginning to wonder if keeping it organic has more negatives than positives ?
If you want to stay completely natural, I would suggest wood ash. NPK about 0-1-3 (not too much, it can burn, lol, even if it's not on fire).
Wood ash is about four percent potassium, and less than two percent phosphorus, magnesium, aluminum, and sodium. The small amounts of these nutrients is the reason that ash is considered a “low grade” fertilizer. In terms of commercial fertilizer, average wood ash would be about 0-1-3
This might actually be an even better suggestion, for those who want to be completely organic.
Also, remember what happened with this grow, and adjust your formulary on your soil next time to try and compensate for this deficiency this time around, learn from it, formulate another plant and carry it out. But regardless, you nailed it.
If you feed 1ml per ltr, and you have a 10ltr pot?
my bad I just was having a read up and was curious what humic was. It’s not my post !
The plants look really good BTW, I would keep adding a little potassium anyway you can.
What I usually do here is this: I use some monopotassium phosphate at this time, pH balanced with some potassium hydroxide.
Watch your runoff ph and adjust accordingly, don't go any extreme, try to keep it right around 6.5 Aqua might have some other advice, or perhaps some of the others, but that's what I would suggest. For what it's worth. (yellowing/browning leaf tips).
At this point, I'd hit them with a mild every now and again until there finished. How far are you away from harvest?
I'm using 3gal pots XD, I got 5L bottles I use for watering, so just use 2 bottles now.
I'll check how much PPM is in 10ml bloom feed, I forgot to do it last night, took ages to get things done, my bad :)
That's okay I don't mind it, it's always nice to learn more
Thank you Frank, I've keep the PH as close to 6.5 as I can, since the Pen messed up, the replacement PH Pen wasn't much better so been using the PH Drops which are actually insanely accurate. Only thing is, they don't give you an exact number.
I think we got 4more weeks left.. Maybe 3more weeks until harvest
The yellow, could it be caused by nutrient lockout? Everyone was feeding there plants 1ML BLOOM feed to 1L water while we done like 200ML BLOOM feed to 5L water lol..
Either way, we gave it an emergency 10L water only last night 'it was dry'
So next time we'll give it 10ML of bloom feed for the 10L water.
Feeding has confused me like hell lol.
Look at my grow, 4 plants growing into the lights, 3 inches from. I use 1ml to ltr. Just in 8th week of flower, down with in the next couple of weeks, best I've done in my present space is 11 and a half gallon jars, dry.
Chemistry's persoanl grow.
Yo T n G's, thought it was time to dump my buddies start up grow thread and sundry and start a new one. I only grow for my own needs, been smoking since I was a kid, so I like a nice smoke, and as we all know, if you want anything doing right, then do it...www.thcfarmer.com
Yes, it could be pH related, no doubt. That's always a consideration, especially when you get where your currently at, usually it gets in the low range, and needs to be brought back up. I actually do that periodically, but I've got stuff that's in my mix that's there as a buffer hopefully to keep it from going the other way as well.
Ph meters can be inaccurate, bromothymol blue cannot, it's fail safe.
It's possible to use ph to "liberate" some nutrients, (like rock phospate, with a base) if you really know what your doing. Personally, I don't use any of the digital meters anymore. I use nothing but the chemicals, because there way more reliable even though their not always as narrowly accurate, (if routinely and properly calibrated, a big IF) but if you get your colors well, a good solid yellow is where you want to be, or a slight yellow/green actually. Either way, you want to avoid an "orange" tint, and anything blue is far too basic.
If you suspect lockout. CHECK the pH of your runoff by flushing with pure, unadulterated (filtered) or distilled H20
When I"m at this point, I'm usually using a surfactant with much of my watering, I use yukka, but any surfactant will do, even mild organic soap in the roots. Especially if your experiencing or noticing any types of drainage issues. (caused by excessive salt accumulations) Also, your surfactant puts your roots in better contact with your solution (ie. a wetting agent).
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All I run is Canna Vega a/b Flores a/b and Cannazym enzym, a splash of Calmag and that's it, just add water.
Too many PPM's stalls all plants, even outdoors. Next time you'll know better.
Yo man what’s good. I been growing a year so fairly new myself. But troubleshoot. 1) check tempature and stilled air. 2) check soils PH. 3) look into Cal-Mag feeding. That’s what id recommend
Yo man what’s good. I been growing a year so fairly new myself. But troubleshoot. 1) check tempature and stilled air. 2) check soils PH. 3) look into Cal-Mag feeding. That’s what id recommend
Give all of the yellow and brown leaves a tug, the ones that are ready to be removed will pull off with no resistance. Also, at this point it will difficult to tell if you have resolved the issue. Even if the plant is currently in completely ideal conditions most of the brown and yellow leaves will continue to look worse as the plant nears completion.This browness appears to be spreading to other plants ?. Should we remove all brown leaves or wait and see ?.
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