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wow..i just read a post by cannibisjohn offering help with HVAC related issues..I was supprised at the amount of interest and people needing help of one kind or another..if it helps anyone I am also a HVAC contractor in Fl. for over 28 years now..any help i can give id be more than glad to.even as far as providingl tech support for those who want to installe there own equipment. with the right tools its not all its made out to be....automation and controls are my thing so let me know...
Don't be messing up my action. Just kidding. Installs are fairly easy but I think most people don't want to spend extra money for tools to use once. Also technically it is illegal but we both know how that works (EPA rules that online retailers don't care about). Plus the operating pressures of the new R410A.
sorry man wasnt trying to step on your hoses there just thought id see if i could help out some..seemed like you got jumped there..
Is the vacume pumps only purpose to check for a leak? I purchase a dual zone Klimeaire about 6 months ago. It came with pre-flared 25' line sets all ready to go. I installed it without vacuming the lines and it has been running great ever since. Hope I didn't do anything two wrong.
Nope theyr correct air in the system is considered a noncondensable gas so it will increase condensing temp and pressures and absolutly kill efficiency and drasticly shorten the life span of the equip in general..what you have now is a contaminated charge that REALLY needs to be recovered and disposed of and the system dryer changed and then pumped down before installing a virgin charge you will see an imed increase in system performance and elect comsumption as wellBest to have a pro out to do this is at this point. It shouldnt take more than two hours laybor total and whatever the trip charge is plus cost of ref. Hope this helpsIs the vacume pumps only purpose to check for a leak? I purchase a dual zone Klimeaire about 6 months ago. It came with pre-flared 25' line sets all ready to go. I installed it without vacuming the lines and it has been running great ever since. Hope I didn't do anything two wrong.
Thanks you guys for the info. Its not that Im to cheap to hire a pro its just well you know. Could I take the compressor to a pro and heave him change the system dryer and install new R410A then bring it back but this time use a vacume pump the way I should have to start with.
i have a 3phase 208v a/c unit but only have 240v power , can i make this work with some sort of transformer?
i have a 3phase 208v a/c unit but only have 240v power , can i make this work with some sort of transformer?
You could allways change the compressor to a single phase pump. The fan motors should be single phase, unless this equip is larger than 5 tons or 480v
its 10 ton :worried:evilgrin0040::bongsmi:
wow..i just read a post by cannibisjohn offering help with HVAC related issues..I was supprised at the amount of interest and people needing help of one kind or another..if it helps anyone I am also a HVAC contractor in Fl. for over 28 years now..any help i can give id be more than glad to.even as far as providingl tech support for those who want to installe there own equipment. with the right tools its not all its made out to be....automation and controls are my thing so let me know...
Could you go into details on how one could cool 2 rooms with 1 5 ton split AC? Can you explain how the "off" room would be cooled? It seems like the basics would be each room would have 1 supply and 1 return duct, both with motorized or electric dampers. If each set of dampers have their own tstat are they simply controlled by temp? or temp and time?
also, where would the tstat for the air handler go? Or do you need 1 in each room?
If the "off" room fully opens it's dampers, doesn't the "on" room lose 50% of it's cooling capacity when the "off" room needs cooling? Is there a better and more precise way? For example, the "off" room only needs to cool a dehumidifier, so it seems like it would only need around 1 ton of cooling, as opposed to 2.5 tons (half of the 5 ton unit)....or is it better to not mess around with with percentages and simply open the dampers all the way in hopes that it cools the "off" room quickly and then returns to fully cooling the "on" room?
Thank you in advance....being able to cool 2 rooms with 1 AC saves so much on amperage and costs!!!
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