CannabisJohn
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Plugged drain line or dirty drain pan.
last post was an issue with my fujitsu mini split. had a leak somewhere from installation. Caused to unit to form ice and not work properly. had the line re sealed and charged back up...now 2 months down the line im noticing water droplets pooring out of the back of the unit. any idea why? thanks in advance.
last post was an issue with my fujitsu mini split. had a leak somewhere from installation. Caused to unit to form ice and not work properly. had the line re sealed and charged back up...now 2 months down the line im noticing water droplets pooring out of the back of the unit. any idea why? thanks in advance.
Hey CJ. This thread is excellent man. I'm working on converting a 10x10x8 bedroom. I'm inland NorCal so it's really hot for a long summer. I have to have a/c so am considering a Freidrich window unit. How can I maintain "adequate" co2 levels without installing a full on burner/controller? Will I need to exhaust the room (and a/c) periodically? Will I need a dedicated fresh air intake (was thinking a 6 inch max fan with a filter), or can I pull in air through the a/c unit? I'm sure I'll eventually seal the room but I want to dial in all other factors for the first few cycles. Thanks Man!
Thanks for that CJ. So I just read somewhere else that the CO2 levels inside a typical home are typically higher than outdoor. Agree? If so, I should be pulling air from inside and exhausting out the room's window or into the garage/attic, right? I can do either, but only want to do one. I do plan to supplement with CO2 in the not too distant future so don't want to make unnecessary mods.
Do you have an opinion on the Aura brand of mini-splits? Specifically the DIY version that comes pre-charged with quick connect fittings. It's cold enough now that if I run lights at night, I could get by fine with pulling outside air to cool the room until about mid-March or so. By then, I can save up enough for the mini-split and do it right with supplemental CO2 without doing a window shaker. If I go that route, what size mini-split should take care of 800 cu.ft. running 3k of lighting?
LH
Mitsubushi is my brand. LG also good.
I'm now.running the Mitsubishi I got. Night and day difference between the garbage ideal air.
The ideal.air pulled gallons of water out of the air and dried everything out. The Mitsubishi barely pulls any water which makes things a lot easier on my humidifier.
Also the outdoor unit is whisper quiet, can barely hear it when it's running. The ideal air sounded like a huge metal rattling box of nuts and bolts.
So glad I made the switch
Hey John!
3 rooms measuring 16.5 x 30 ft, height is 8.5 ft in two of them and 16+ ft in the third, how would you cool these rooms if each room was 16 kw? (and if each had 20kw)?
Best wishes.
2-4 ton split systems in each room for 16kw and 2-5 ton split systems for each 20 kW room. Hang air handlers in room. If done properly you don't even need any duct work either. In the 16 ft room hang the air handler 10-12 ft off of floor depending on tall your plants get and how high your lights need to go
Thank you John!
If done properly and done without duct work does that mean that I could do this with out needing a HVAC guy?
I wouldn't say you need an HVAC pro to properly install a split but you do need the equipment and some basic kniwledge. If you plan on installing a few of them in the future and are a handy guy that likes learning I'd invest in the equipment and do a little learning. The only downside to self installs is warranty issues if a problem arises.Thank you John!
If done properly and done without duct work does that mean that I could do this with out needing a HVAC guy?
No. You need a HVAC guy for proper install.
I wouldn't say you need an HVAC pro to properly install a split but you do need the equipment and some basic kniwledge. If you plan on installing a few of them in the future and are a handy guy that likes learning I'd invest in the equipment and do a little learning. The only downside to self installs is warranty issues if a problem arises.
Hey CJ see your very intelligent when it comes to this subject so first let me say thank you for all your knowledge, second you've been answering people for years hats off to you! OK so my issue, I have 4800 unvented with a brand new Kenmore 25,000 btu window unit inside my grow space due to winter, I've read enough to know you will recommend 3,800 more btu, I have the back of the ac unit sealed, which I'm going to attach pictures, the problem I'm having though is I did not start having cooling issues until the neighbor complained which forced me to install a 6"inline fan, so from the back of ac I have solid 6" elbow to 8" 745 cfm fan to 6" inline phresh filter to a 6" elbow to 2ft metal ducting to 6" elbow to 4ft metal ducting to 8" 745 cfm fan to flex duct out the window, my room gets very balmy 90 degrees and I could cook an egg on the ducting, what am I doing wrong? I've thought about bigger ducting or putting my glass back in the hoods I do have then for which is 3 of them, thought about insulating the duct work and thought about building box around the back to circulate more air but I'm tired of spending money on things that are not working at all. Please help attaching pics. PS unit shown is not the new unit but is installed exactly the sameView attachment 561179View attachment 561180 View attachment 561181
How much bigger 10" 8" ?Fan,ducting, and box need to be bigger.
How much bigger 10" 8" ?
Thank youGet a fan that does at least 1000 cfm. Make the box as big as you can and come out side of it with duct to fan. Make duct same size as fan and use the fewest elbows as possible.
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