Grow room design issue different than the usual

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dingfriesRdone

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Overview
I have a 12'x12' flower room that has been giving me issues for the longest time. The main problem here is that the room is right next to my furnace. So I am constantly battling heat issues. The summer time is bad because of the 90degree heat outside, and the winters are bad because the furnace will kick on and spike the room temperatures.

Set up:
I currently have one 600w HPS with Magnum XXXL reflector with the insulated jacket on it and another 1000w HPS with Magnum XXXL reflector with the same insulated deal on it. There is one 8" High Output fan hooked up sucking the air from the two reflectors and exhausting it outside.

I am running an aeroponics perpetual grow with 6 rubbermaid 10 gallon totes that are stacked on top of each other. Top tote has 4 net pots that have vegged plants,of desired size, in them. The bottom tote is the reservoir that sits on the cool basement floor. Water is pulled from bottom tote via hose and delivered up to the top tote and sprayed at the net pots and dangling roots. Water hits the plants and drains back to the bottom tote. Timer is set up to come on for 15 minutes and off for 45 minutes.

Problem
With that being said, my current high temperature hits 79 degrees with my flower room door closed. Not that bad, but not that good when you're having your reservoirs inside the flower room. I have no where else to put them because of the furnace in the winter time heating the reservoirs up past desired temperature. I want to get my room temperature down to 72-74 so The reservoir temps don't get much above 70. This is where I could use some intelligent feedback.
Options
I have been thinking of sealing the room and getting two of those "ice box" deals to put on the outside of each reflector, but don't those need some sort of reservoirs themselves that need to be chilled?

My other thought is to leave the room temperature alone and get a water chiller. But I have 6 of these setups that I run. What am I suppose to do, use the chiller on each setup for a day and switch it? No that cant do.

Another thought would be to get a mini split. But where should I mount it? On the outside wall of the flower room? Wouldn't be a bad idea if the room was sealed, but right now it isn't and the air gets pulled from that furnace room. So in the winter months I would have the heat of the furnace and the mini split.

Ive been running this setup for a year now with mediocre yields, but no where close to a gram per watt. I can hardly cover the costs to keep my medical grow going.
Help?
Think of this as a challenge. I consider myself an intelligent guy and I along with a friend cant seem to crack this case. Last resort is to go to soil and live with the temperatures. Any suggestions?
 
sedate

sedate

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63
First off - this is sort of impossible without pics.

If you want good ideas - post pics of the area and your current grow with as much context and wide-angles as possible.

Secondly -

dingfriesRdone said:
With that being said, my current high temperature hits 79 degrees with my flower room door closed. Not that bad, but not that good when you're having your reservoirs inside the flower room. I have no where else to put them because of the furnace in the winter time heating the reservoirs up past desired temperature. I want to get my room temperature down to 72-74 so The reservoir temps don't get much above 70. This is where I could use some intelligent feedback.

That doesn't really sound that bad - and if you aren't losing crops to root rot/pythium I don't quite know why you want to throw thousands of dollars at this issue. Dropping your res temp isn't going to increase your yields by itself unless your root systems are suffering - and the higher res temp only matters as a vector for root rot/pythium.

dingfries said:
Ive been running this setup for a year now with mediocre yields, but no where close to a gram per watt. I can hardly cover the costs to keep my medical grow going.

Um. Legal medical growers don't really get 1 gpw.

1 gpw is dozens of clones flowered immediately into a SCROG.

Medical grows with huge wattage numbers and smaller numbers of plants do not put down efficiency numbers like that . . . no matter what you may have heard . . .
 
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dingfriesRdone

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Hey thanks for the fast response. I will upload pictures ASAP.

Taking them as we speak.
 
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theTinker

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I battle somewhat similar issues and i found a solution for my own particular issues.

Maybe it might lend help to you.

In summer, I exhuast outside. As much as possible. and keep the adjoining living areas as cool as possible. which is often near impossible but my temps MAX are 27C at the hottest summer day so im ok with small heat issues during this time. Most growers cant even manage that so i consider it a victory.

In Winter, I run a closed loop cooling strategy for the lights. Air from my living area (or outside i guess would be fine) cools my lights in cool tubes and i exhaust back INTO my living areas. This heats up my home quite well. Its a comfortable temperature so i rarely use my heating. This means my furnace rarely gets used, my living quaters air is never too warm to cause any problems to the temperature of the grow, and my home gets heated for free in comparison. Perhaps this lack of furnace usage will help you battle your problem.

Hope it helps.
 
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dingfriesRdone

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I've uploaded a bunch of photos, check them out. I think I will start leaning towards a sealed room. I'm getting sick of the bugs. I have about $3,000 to make it happen. Help me with a shopping list anyone?
 
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dingfriesRdone

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hanging-dehumidifier-tent-32685


All the pictures under my name on this post are of my grow setup.
 
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dingfriesRdone

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All the pictures under my name on this post are of my grow setup.
 
sedate

sedate

948
63
Um.

In the future it might help to post to the correct thread. You'll get way more help in general.

A couple of things -

1) Those rubbermaid bins are great DWC containers - but those plants are too tall and you'd need like 12 - 20 of them flowered at 10" or so across two containers to get near 1 gpw. You'll also need a screen. Too many other factors here to really nail it down more than that.

2) You need a pre-filter on your carbon scrubber. I don't know why exactly - but they make the things last much, much longer and much more effective. And have the fan "suck" through the filter - not "blow" . . .

3) Your room isn't crowded and you said that you have air access - why can't you just run a 12000 BTU portable A/C?

4) Your grow really looks fine and your wasting your money at 79 degrees. You do not need to chill stand-alone DWC's like that dude. IMHO.
 
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dingfriesRdone

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I would like to seal it off. Pull air from another room in the cool basement and run it through the lights and outside. Then run co2 and a controller. This will spike the humidity obviously and i would most likely have to put the dehuey in the actual flower room. So the minisplit would allow me to be able to add a grow tent with another 600w mh for a final veg stage. What do you think?
 
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dingfriesRdone

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I cant make it more than 3 days without the reservoirs smelling like a fish tank.
The only thing that seems to help is putting 8 drops of bleach per gallon into each reservoir. But by doing this I do believe it will counter act the Rhizotonic that I put in there. Any thoughts?
 
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dingfriesRdone

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Also I was thinking about putting both lights in a row along the back side of the room and run them in a straight shot. Pull the air from another room in the basement, through the lights and outside. That way there should be no smell. Would it be wise then to get a CO2 unit?
 
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dingfriesRdone

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Another thought... In image 6 it shows the air pump the pumps air to those two reservoirs. Is this really even necessary with these setups? I could see if the roots sat down in the water. But the water sprays up to the top tote and falls back down to the bottom. The roots have 45 minutes of air to soak up. Any thoughts?

Hey I know this is randomly put together but I would really appreciate any and all feedback. Thanks guys
 
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