Grow Room Electrical

deniro · Mar 4, 2013

Natural said:
wow so because you can add you decided to answer electrical questions! gtfoh!
The largest single pole 120 volt breaker/circuit you will find in any US residential is a 20 amp service and 15 amp and 20 amp breakers use different gauge wire; for this reason you cannot replace your 15 amp breakers with 20 amp breakers at the service panel.
50 amp circuits are run using 220 volt style wiring..a completely different wiring arrangement.
If you guys have basic questions, the best thing to do is to go out and buy a Basic Wiring Book and read it several times to upgrade your knowledge of understanding.
ELECTRICITY IS NO JOKING MATTER!

Thanks for the intel, any is appreciated, because oviously i don't know jack about electricity.

Natural · Mar 4, 2013

washburn4life said:
This Is what I have discovered! have you ever amp probed the difference between digital balest and coil and cap

The digital ballasts are more efficient and pull slightly less amps. You won't notice a difference unless you are running racks. Some of the cheap digi's do not have RFI shielding which can affect your coaxial as well as your neighbors. I wouldn't run cheap bulbs in them either. So if they are in your budget..they run cooler, more efficient, they condition voltage swings, quicker start ups, and length of your lamp cord is less of a concern. I like them cause they burn brighter , stay cool, and I can switch voltage and bulb size with ease.

Natural · Mar 4, 2013

deniro said:
Does it also reduce the electrical consumption or not?
Thanks everyone!!

You probably sayin' geez this Natural guy is a dickhead, but a ton of people read this thread for understanding and you wouldn't believe how many people burn their houses down over stupid electrical mistakes.

Natural · Mar 4, 2013

deniro said:
Does it also reduce the electrical consumption or not?
Thanks everyone!!

The only savings you will have is barely detectable. On the 120v 15 amp, the copper wire is smaller and gives a bigger resistance as the "juice" flows along this conductor in the form of heat..especially when you are powering a higher wattage device. When you use 220v the path is of the juice encounters less resistance due to the bigger wire. It is dangerous to over load any circuit..it puts stress on the wiring and the junctions(which is the weakest point of any circuit) and can cause over-heating which leads to fire. It is more important to plot your usage with safety in mind before plotting how to save your electricity dollars.

jkbeing · Mar 4, 2013

deniro said:
Does it also reduce the electrical consumption or not?
Thanks everyone!!

No, just a more balance load when you run at 240v. And you shouldn't put more on a single line then the wire can take.

washburn4life · Mar 4, 2013

Natural said:
The digital ballasts are more efficient and pull slightly less amps. You won't notice a difference unless you are running racks. Some of the cheap digi's do not have RFI shielding which can affect your coaxial as well as your neighbors. I wouldn't run cheap bulbs in them either. So if they are in your budget..they run cooler, more efficient, they condition voltage swings, quicker start ups, and length of your lamp cord is less of a concern. I like them cause they burn brighter , stay cool, and I can switch voltage and bulb size with ease.

I have read all this, but one thing I'm confused with is that they burn brighter... like what is Lumitecks supper lumins?

I buy the cheepst bulbs I can get. Right now I get phillips 1000w MH and HPS for about $40 a piece wholesale I try ed an Eye Hortiulx MH and HPS, I never noticed much diffrence other then the $150 price tag, But I did not set up a test. So extra $150 for a balest and extra $100 for a bulb and you could buy 2x1000w set ups for the cost of one. Am I missing somthing I have 20 lights now and am about a month away from buying another 20 so I would like to figure out if I should start considering Digis.

I will never do any thing other then 1000w, and most cord runs are spliced on my light-balest whip, I add 35 ft or less of 14 AWG

And what do you mean stay cool?

Natural · Mar 5, 2013

washburn4life said:
I have read all this, but one thing I'm confused with is that they burn brighter... like what is Lumitecks supper lumins?

I buy the cheepst bulbs I can get. Right now I get phillips 1000w MH and HPS for about $40 a piece wholesale I try ed an Eye Hortiulx MH and HPS, I never noticed much diffrence other then the $150 price tag, But I did not set up a test. So extra $150 for a balest and extra $100 for a bulb and you could buy 2x1000w set ups for the cost of one. Am I missing somthing I have 20 lights now and am about a month away from buying another 20 so I would like to figure out if I should start considering Digis.

I will never do any thing other then 1000w, and most cord runs are spliced on my light-balest whip, I add 35 ft or less of 14 AWG

And what do you mean stay cool?

By cool, I mean that the ballasts barely feel warm to the touch compared to magnetics that get very warm.
Digis have only really been getting to be a more worthy product in the past 2-3 years...basically less failures..longer warranty's..and more competition in the market. The super lumens will use up a bulb quicker..and I wouldn't use the setting unless I was trying to get the last bit of life out of my bulb.
Digi's have been known to blow cheap bulbs and personally I would not run anything but Eye and Ushio in them. (for safety reasons)
I think you are trying to justify the cost on a budget for commercial and you may not be able to.
My personal advice is to maybe try out at least a couple of them and see if you like them..bud quality weight..and see if you can tell a difference. My intuition tells me that you would be better suited to keep on doing what you have been doing, so as not to be disappointed that you spent more money for little difference.
I encourage you to start a thread and take a poll for your situation..there are a lot of commercial growers here that can give you some valuable input.

caveman4.20 · Mar 5, 2013

i think the ballast of digitals are cooler but bulb runs hotter and opposite for magnetic......

deniro · Mar 6, 2013

Natural said:
The only savings you will have is barely detectable. On the 120v 15 amp, the copper wire is smaller and gives a bigger resistance as the "juice" flows along this conductor in the form of heat..especially when you are powering a higher wattage device. When you use 220v the path is of the juice encounters less resistance due to the bigger wire. It is dangerous to over load any circuit..it puts stress on the wiring and the junctions(which is the weakest point of any circuit) and can cause over-heating which leads to fire. It is more important to plot your usage with safety in mind before plotting how to save your electricity dollars.

Thank you Natural!!!

deniro · Mar 6, 2013

Natural said:
The only savings you will have is barely detectable. On the 120v 15 amp, the copper wire is smaller and gives a bigger resistance as the "juice" flows along this conductor in the form of heat..especially when you are powering a higher wattage device. When you use 220v the path is of the juice encounters less resistance due to the bigger wire. It is dangerous to over load any circuit..it puts stress on the wiring and the junctions(which is the weakest point of any circuit) and can cause over-heating which leads to fire. It is more important to plot your usage with safety in mind before plotting how to save your electricity dollars.

Well said!!!

deniro · Mar 6, 2013

jkbeing said:
No, just a more balance load when you run at 240v. And you shouldn't put more on a single line then the wire can take.

Can you give me an example for better understanding, because I don't know jack about electricity, thanks jkbeing. In regards to "you shouldn't put more on a single line then the wire can take". Do you mean: I shouldn't put more wattage on a circuit/breaker than the wire can take? And, how would I find out what the existing wire can take if I'm correct?

jkbeing · Mar 6, 2013

deniro said:
Can you give me an example for better understanding, because I don't know jack about electricity, thanks jkbeing. In regards to "you shouldn't put more on a single line then the wire can take". Do you mean: I shouldn't put more wattage on a circuit/breaker than the wire can take? And, how would I find out what the existing wire can take if I'm correct?

240v= 4 wires. 2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground. 120v=3 wires. 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground. When you run lots of power you want your 2 hot legs @ 240v to have even amps running on each side. Sometimes you can read the wire size on the wire, but if the wire had a 15amp breaker don't go over 15 amps. 80% is the safe load. Most motors amp spike when they start up, so you should leave a little room. If you feel a wire thats almost too hot to touch, then it is being overloaded. Learn as much as you can before you ever do anything, I've messed up and burned shit down, doesn't feel good.

deniro · Mar 6, 2013

jkbeing said:
240v= 4 wires. 2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground. 120v=3 wires. 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground. When you run lots of power you want your 2 hot legs @ 240v to have even amps running on each side. Sometimes you can read the wire size on the wire, but if the wire had a 15amp breaker don't go over 15 amps. 80% is the safe load. Most motors amp spike when they start up, so you should leave a little room. If you feel a wire thats almost too hot to touch, then it is being overloaded. Learn as much as you can before you ever do anything, I've messed up and burned shit down, doesn't feel good.

THANK YOU JKBEING!!!

Dr.stickerdick · Mar 6, 2013

Look at your equipment name plate for amps. / volts. This is your power consumption. The resistance of the wire from the service panel to the receptacle or disconnect is virtually zero. The resistance IS from the electric utilization device. Most of these questions and answers on here prove you should be seeking out a licensed electrician. There is way too much use of rule-of-thumb circuit calculation going on. I love you guys but many answers are misguided, well meaning but still misguided. ,,,,,,,,,,Peace

fishwhistle · Mar 6, 2013

Well said stickerdick,our resident sparky hiboy has been MIA for a minute and its kinda run amok in here.
Deniro,keep in mind that 240v can also be 3 wires hot/hot/grnd,dryer plugs and straight 240 is often run this way,i beleive the extra wire(neutral)comes into play when you have an appliance that uses both 120 and 240 like an electric oven or a lighting controller with both 120 and 240 plugs and like JK said remember the 80% rule!

Natural · Mar 6, 2013

Dr.stickerdick said:
Look at your equipment name plate for amps. / volts. This is your power consumption. The resistance of the wire from the service panel to the receptacle or disconnect is virtually zero. The resistance IS from the electric utilization device. Most of these questions and answers on here prove you should be seeking out a licensed electrician. There is way too much use of rule-of-thumb circuit calculation going on. I love you guys but many answers are misguided, well meaning but still misguided. ,,,,,,,,,,Peace

"virtually zero" is the same statement as "barely detectable". I stand behind every statement I've made on here..which is to help give a better understanding of electricity.

deniro · Mar 7, 2013

Dr.stickerdick said:
Look at your equipment name plate for amps. / volts. This is your power consumption. The resistance of the wire from the service panel to the receptacle or disconnect is virtually zero. The resistance IS from the electric utilization device. Most of these questions and answers on here prove you should be seeking out a licensed electrician. There is way too much use of rule-of-thumb circuit calculation going on. I love you guys but many answers are misguided, well meaning but still misguided. ,,,,,,,,,,Peace

I definitely agree! I need a cool licsenced electrician, thanks Dr.stickerdick for your time and advice!!

deniro · Mar 7, 2013

Natural said:
"virtually zero" is the same statement as "barely detectable". I stand behind every statement I've made on here..which is to help give a better understanding of electricity.

Thank you Natural!!!

deniro · Mar 7, 2013

jkbeing said:
240v= 4 wires. 2 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground. 120v=3 wires. 1 hot, 1 neutral, 1 ground. When you run lots of power you want your 2 hot legs @ 240v to have even amps running on each side. Sometimes you can read the wire size on the wire, but if the wire had a 15amp breaker don't go over 15 amps. 80% is the safe load. Most motors amp spike when they start up, so you should leave a little room. If you feel a wire thats almost too hot to touch, then it is being overloaded. Learn as much as you can before you ever do anything, I've messed up and burned shit down, doesn't feel good.

Thanks jkbeing!

caveman4.20 · Mar 9, 2013

is it more electricity to start up a 1000 watt ballast then to keep it running i plan on turning off and on 1000 watt lights for SLT scattered lighting techinique....

Grow Room Electrical

Grow Room Electrical

deniro

Natural

Natural

Natural

jkbeing

washburn4life

Natural

caveman4.20

deniro

deniro

deniro

jkbeing

deniro

Dr.stickerdick

fishwhistle

Natural

deniro

deniro

deniro

caveman4.20

Privacy & Transparency

Privacy & Transparency