Grow Room Electrical

Natural · May 7, 2014

Oldmanstoner said:
Okay a question that might already be answered but, I have a 200 amp box in this place an want to use the dryer plug that has two 30 amps pushing the 240 dryer wall plug. Didn't look till I started an realize that the outlet I have gotten to match up with the power strip that comes from the ballast a 1k magnetic ballast is rated only for 20 amps. Now the wire hooking to the dryer plugin is braided an looks to be #6 wire, pretty thick stuff an no good way of hooking it to the outlet that matches up with the ballast wire. Can I cut off the male plug end an put one that would match up with the dryer wall plug? The ballast should only pull what it needs correct at least that is the way it is with 120 never hooked ballast up to a 240. Thanks for any assistance you can give me with this plus can I find a double female connector instead of a single like HD or Lowes has for 240 wall plugs or do I need to go another way?

seems like a giant pain in the ass to go through all of that for just one light..why not plug it into a regular outlet?
It would be fine to re-wire your power cord with a dryer plug end..if the dryer plug will tighten down real good where you connect the wires. The problem with that is you won't be able to run a timer with that plug end. If it was me I would pay the $100 for a 30 amp light controller..it would allow me to add more lights later and the set up would be clean and moveable. You can wire the 30 amp controller with a plug to match your dryer outlet, using copper 10-2 with ground...even if your dryer is a 4 prong. You would just be eliminating the use of your neutral, while leaving it intact. Just be sure to test the lines and put the hots to hots and the ground to ground when you wire the dryer plug end.

sidenote...#6 awg seems pretty heavy for a 30 amp dryer circuit..and braided at that? ..makes me think it is aluminum instead of copper. If that's the case..runs using aluminum have to be thicker gauge to carry the current without major voltage drop.

sidenote #2....be sure to get into your magnetic ballast and switch the tap wire to the one marked "220"...that is if it isn't an obvious switch @ the exterior of the ballast

Oldmanstoner · May 7, 2014

Well when I add the 1k light in with all the 400's an fans it just too much for my regular circuits but low an behold the dryer plug is right there within 10 feet! So, I think to myself when I'm at the hydro store to pick up the 240 plugs that fits my 1k ballast I have laying around, like 3 I think? See two of them but think there is another run laying around someplace? So right now I'm wanting to add a 1k with the 400's an see how the heat does, which it did okay till I started popping my timer an breaker then I think to myself that isn't gonna stop me!

This Light Controller, didn't even think of that (honestly don't know what that is but from the name i get the drift), great call now need to find one, it seems to me that lowes or home depot didn't have one or just not with the other electical stuff, guess that is another visit to hydro shop or would a light store have one? Guess I can just shop online, oh yea the fun just doesn't end!

Now I should have 60 amps to use since this place has two 30 amp tied together for the dryer which does seem like a lot but you gotta know this old man that wire this place up! Gear head an tends to use what he has an doesn't believe in going small like the wire, now thinking about how the wire looked it looked copper to me. Just went an looked, an it is copper wire! Wow, obviously he wired that years ago! Never seen this wire used in a dwelling an I wired more then one up for these purposes but just enough for 2 1k lights an always used 120. This might be the first place I go with more then 2 lights, kind of my ever increasing expansion. Now I'm thinking that the light controller can be use in conjunction with a switch box so my ballast can be use for two different rooms? Yea I think that would be the obvious thing to do!

Thank You Naturalist

Natural · May 8, 2014

Oldmanstoner said:
Well when I add the 1k light in with all the 400's an fans it just too much for my regular circuits but low an behold the dryer plug is right there within 10 feet! So, I think to myself when I'm at the hydro store to pick up the 240 plugs that fits my 1k ballast I have laying around, like 3 I think? See two of them but think there is another run laying around someplace? So right now I'm wanting to add a 1k with the 400's an see how the heat does, which it did okay till I started popping my timer an breaker then I think to myself that isn't gonna stop me!

This Light Controller, didn't even think of that (honestly don't know what that is but from the name i get the drift), great call now need to find one, it seems to me that lowes or home depot didn't have one or just not with the other electical stuff, guess that is another visit to hydro shop or would a light store have one? Guess I can just shop online, oh yea the fun just doesn't end!

Now I should have 60 amps to use since this place has two 30 amp tied together for the dryer which does seem like a lot but you gotta know this old man that wire this place up! Gear head an tends to use what he has an doesn't believe in going small like the wire, now thinking about how the wire looked it looked copper to me. Just went an looked, an it is copper wire! Wow, obviously he wired that years ago! Never seen this wire used in a dwelling an I wired more then one up for these purposes but just enough for 2 1k lights an always used 120. This might be the first place I go with more then 2 lights, kind of my ever increasing expansion. Now I'm thinking that the light controller can be use in conjunction with a switch box so my ballast can be use for two different rooms? Yea I think that would be the obvious thing to do!

Thank You Naturalist

ya..online or at the hydro shop will have the controllers.
Still not sure what you mean by saying you have 60 amps or (2) 30 amps tied together??
Your circuit in the panel is going to determine your max amps. Over-size wire will only help to carry the voltage without loss better. The circuits (breakers) are sized to be close to the max amps of your appliance. 60 amps is for electric ovens...30 amps is for electric dryers...etc. So, if you have a double pole 30 amp circuit..you just say "220v(double pole) 30 amp breaker"..not (2) 30 amps tied together.
If you truly have "two 30 amps tied together...you say, it is a double pole 220v 60 amp circuit. What determines this is what the circuit says in the panel..not the wiring size.
Just so we are on the same page..I'm sure your dryer circuit will be fine for your use..just want a better understanding of what you're dealing with.

Another option...If you are truly just using one ballast and you want to flip it...it being a magnetic you will need to power that sucker down for around 20 minutes in between flips..so a 220 timer is essential. But you could skip the controller and just use a 220v 15 amp timer. Just wire your 10-2 with ground to a dryer plug end and instead of hardwiring a controller at the other end..just wire a nema 6-15r (see pix below). This is where you plug in your timer.

Of course..this would limit you to one ballast.

Billyboat · May 14, 2014

hiboy said:
U can put 100 amps each phase. Of course u should follow the 80% rule.
Hb

How Does the power factor of 1.73 come into play?

I have 3 separate 100 amp 3 phase meters at my building(conjoined units) that I am trying to squeeze all 80% out of....so it all has to be balanced and I wanna do it right the first time as I'll be doing all the electrical work again.

Billyboat · May 15, 2014

@hiboy

QLTYlab · May 19, 2014

I have a Nema 10-20 receptable powering a heater and would like to use the outlet for my lights. Is this possible? I know this is an older uncommon outlet so don't want any safety issues.

Natural · May 20, 2014

QLTYlab said:
I have a Nema 10-20 receptable powering a heater and would like to use the outlet for my lights. Is this possible? I know this is an older uncommon outlet so don't want any safety issues.

It runs your heater doesn't it? I see these running air conditioners in homes for the most part..just don't exceed 80% capacity of the 20 amp circuit.
Code has jumped up to 4 wire instead of the 3 wire nowadays. It's safer to have the neutral and ground separate. It was acceptable to use the neutral wire as a ground wire in old 220v work..it was assumed that the larger wires in the bigger appliances would have less chance of breaking/faulting...compared to a smaller appliance. I'd find it interesting if you could trace the neutral/ground wire back to the panel on this circuit to see if they bonded to the neutral bus or the ground bus. Both the neutral and ground are bonded at the panel..but it would be more copacetic if it was bonded to the ground bus (being closer to the actual earth ground if you have one). It is quite possible that your heater is utilizing both 120v and 220v, but I don't know if it truly is.

QLTYlab · May 20, 2014

Natural said:
It runs your heater doesn't it? I see these running air conditioners in homes for the most part..just don't exceed 80% capacity of the 20 amp circuit.
Code has jumped up to 4 wire instead of the 3 wire nowadays. It's safer to have the neutral and ground separate. It was acceptable to use the neutral wire as a ground wire in old 220v work..it was assumed that the larger wires in the bigger appliances would have less chance of breaking/faulting...compared to a smaller appliance. I'd find it interesting if you could trace the neutral/ground wire back to the panel on this circuit to see if they bonded to the neutral bus or the ground bus. Both the neutral and ground are bonded at the panel..but it would be more copacetic if it was bonded to the ground bus (being closer to the actual earth ground if you have one). It is quite possible that your heater is utilizing both 120v and 220v, but I don't know if it truly is.

Thank you for the detail @Natural. So would I need to trace the ground before using with my ballasts? I am just concerned about the ballasts mainly, they will be well under the 80%. Also, since the normal 240v ballast cord won't work, can I get the 10-20 male plug and use with romex?

Natural · May 20, 2014

QLTYlab said:
Thank you for the detail @Natural. So would I need to trace the ground before using with my ballasts? I am just concerned about the ballasts mainly, they will be well under the 80%. Also, since the normal 240v ballast cord won't work, can I get the 10-20 male plug and use with romex?

No need to trace the ground..it's good to go. I was mainly curious. Without experience, messing around in the panel isn't a real great idea.

Yes, I think the easiest route for you, would be to wire a matching plug end with romex. 12/2 with ground would be ok with one ballast..I like to go with 10/2 with ground when using a couple or more ballasts for that size circuit. The caveat would be to use a conduit for the romex..or hang it out of reach. The solid copper wire in romex can be harmed and that would be a problem. Also, be sure to test your hots to a ground and make sure you wire the ground correctly through your plugs/romex/receptacle end..easy peasy.
A simpler route would be to seek out a 20 amp rated converter plug..it will be harder to track down, but I believe they use the crows foot type receptacle in Australia and New Zealand.

QLTYlab · May 20, 2014

Awesome dude thank you so much! @Natural

Natural · May 21, 2014

QLTYlab said:
Awesome dude thank you so much! @Natural

If you don't need the extension of romex wire to get closer to where you're housing your ballast and can have your ballast near the receptacle (using added lampcord), you can just switch out the crows foot outlet for one of these 20 amp receptacles. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Leviton-...e-Single-Outlet-Ivory-R51-05821-0IS/100357020
If you go this route, it helps to have experience re-wiring old outlets, as it's easy to break the wire and you'd have to use jumpers. Most circuit problems are going to arise at junctions/ loose connections. Just be slow and gentle with old wiring and you'll be straight.
..and if you wanted to use your old heater..you can wire a new 220v plug end for it. Of course that would be harder to explain if you're in a rental.

DC105 · May 22, 2014

Damn Qlty, sounds like you need DC over for an inspection and quality inspection of sample products. lol, nice bro!

QLTYlab · May 27, 2014

@Natural dude you rock, thank you so much! I'll see if the distance could work and still stay under lamp cord length limits. The romex run might be less noticeable though.

@DC105 haha get out here dude!

Smokeyjojackson · Jun 20, 2014

I am looking to wire up a 100amp sub panel to run 10 1kw lights @240 and will also need a few 120 receptacles for fans, AC, Dehumidifier, etc.

I will be replacing 5 outlets that are pigtailed off of an Intermatic timer fed through a 30 amp circuit on the main panel.

My plan so far is to replace the 30 amp double pole breaker with a 100 amp and use it to feed the sub panel.
The sub panel will be located roughly 3 feet from the main panel.

I am unsure of what size/type of wire to use.

Is there a specific tutorial you might recommend for the wiring? I have seen a few but nothing with a solid schematic for me to follow.

Is there anything I am not thinking of that you might suggest?

Natural · Jun 20, 2014

#3 copper 3-wire with ground (may have to call around to find it)
wire it the same way you would any circuit breaker
just make certain that your ground bus and neutral bus are clearly separated inside your subpanel. sometimes there is a tab that needs to be broken

You could use #4 copper, but you will need to jump down to a 90 amp circuit breaker

lykaboss247 · Jun 21, 2014

Hey guys i am building a new grow room and i am getting a dedicated 30 amp line ran, i wish to run this power box but the mounting point will be about 10 foot away from the outlet, it seems it comes with a hard wire option, but i don't see allot of info about hard wiring these. Anyone have any pictures of the hardwired? Is this something i could do myself... i live in a non medical state so having an electrician wire it up is probably not the best idea, also i know very little about electrical is this something i could hard wire myself?

Natural · Jun 21, 2014

I looked up their installation pdf https://www.1000bulbs.com/pdf/powerbox-702915-instructions_1.pdf ..and it looks like they offer split bolts for hardwire installation with no internal wiring diagram. This leads me to believe that to hardwire this controller, you actually disconnect the provided plug and join that with your new 10 feet of wire off your new circuit. Never actually opening the controller.
You can do it this way or just wire a proper receptacle to your new run and use it it like plug-and-play. If you go the split bolts route, be very aware that arcing between these connections is powerful. I do 220v junctions on un-inspected work as in grow ops, but I never do this for any customers in the field. Buy the high temp electrical tape and wrap the ever loving piss out of the split bolt connections. I put my work in a large metal junction box with strain reliefs. Then I separate the junctions as much as I can inside the box. Then I mount it out of reach..always keeping my eye on the tape to make sure it's doing it's job.
Honestly, if I were you, I would go with the plug -and-play method, as it is an easy and cheap job and works very well.

lykaboss247 · Jun 21, 2014

I emailed the company as well,They just responded back, apparently you can order it with any length of cord for the plug and play which is perfect. Thanks for the response natural!

Frostynugman · Jun 21, 2014

I use one of these things for 4 lights. works like a charm!

labud · Jun 27, 2014

I'm renting a 3000 Sq ft. , 5 bdrm house with 200 amp panel . I want to run 20 flowering lights ,1000s or 600s and 10 veg. Lights 400s ...i know i have to go 240 for the lights , what's the best way, sub panels..?

Grow Room Electrical

Grow Room Electrical

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