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Grow Room Electrical

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Grow Room Electrical

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My interpretation is: the high leg can be used for either a 208V or 240V circuit, depending if you use neutral or one of the other two phases as the return.
 
My interpretation is: the high leg can be used for either a 208V or 240V circuit, depending if you use neutral or one of the other two phases as the return.

So what do they mean by 5% load? Load of the transformer? To or total load of the particular panel.

Thanks again bud
-lurkin
 
I don't see 5% load mentioned in that MikeHolt.com thread?

Hmm mabe it was a diff posting I found on google. I'll talk to my brother n law and see what he says about it.

Thanks
-lurkin
 
From engineeringradio.us:
According to a GE publication on transformers, open delta 3 phase power is undesirable because:

Although this connection delivers three-phase currents which are approximately symmetrical to a three-phase symetrical load, the currents flowing in the high voltage circuit are not equal nor are they 120 degrees apart. The maximum safe output of the bank operating in this manner is 58% of a 3 pot Wye/Delta bank. The system is grossly unbalanced, both electrostatically and electromagnetically.
 
From engineeringradio.us:
According to a GE publication on transformers, open delta 3 phase power is undesirable because:

Although this connection delivers three-phase currents which are approximately symmetrical to a three-phase symetrical load, the currents flowing in the high voltage circuit are not equal nor are they 120 degrees apart. The maximum safe output of the bank operating in this manner is 58% of a 3 pot Wye/Delta bank. The system is grossly unbalanced, both electrostatically and electromagnetically.


Nice! Thank you sir!
-lurkin
 
I've posted this question in a other topic already but I guess this is the appropriate topic for it.

"When it comes down to electricity my knowledge is pretty horrible and usually a friend does it for me but he's not available currently . So before I do this my self I was wondering if some one could tell me what kind of tool to use for the following matter,

There is a main cable running from the street into the house that goes to the main board of the house. Out of the main cable come multiple smaller cables but only one is connected to a 32amp switch. I would like to know if there is power on the remaining others cables that are currently not being used. Should a clamp meter(http://cfnewsads.thomasnet.com/images/large/827/827109.jpg) do the trick to figure this out? I know there are also these screwdrivers with a small light build inside but im afraid that this is too tricky on a powerfull cable."
 
Hello everyone,
Got an electrical question I would like some help with. I am running 4 600w lights off of a CAP8A controller, my question is do I really need to run 8gauge wire to the controller or am I good with 10gauge? I have a double poll 40amp breaker, if my math is correct without ballasts I am drawing 10amps with ballasts somewhere in the neighborhood of 16amps right? Thanks for the help in advance.
 
Hello everyone,
Got an electrical question I would like some help with. I am running 4 600w lights off of a CAP8A controller, my question is do I really need to run 8gauge wire to the controller or am I good with 10gauge? I have a double poll 40amp breaker, if my math is correct without ballasts I am drawing 10amps with ballasts somewhere in the neighborhood of 16amps right? Thanks for the help in advance.

Digital's don't spike at start up like magnetic ballast do..not sure what you're running. Almost sounds like magnetic the way you describe. Digi's might run you 3 amps each at the most...same as magnetics once they get warmed up.
Either way..just run 10-2 grounded with a 30 amp double pole breaker. That will give you room for spikes, or more lights. Just keep the run under 100 ft and it will be good up to 24 amps.
Personally, I run 4 1k's and a 600 on a 30 amp breaker, all digital, that's pretty maxed out..but all good.
 
HIBOY GOT A QUESTION FOR YOU....

I have a CAP8 controller that I am running 240 to and I have Nanolux 600w ballasts that state 120/240v. My question is will I have to switch out the power cord for my ballast in order to not fry it on 240 or will it make the adjustments automatically? The CAP8 instructions say to make sure that my ballast is wired for 240 before plugging into the controller. It seems to me that it should just be plug and play but I would like a second opinion on it. If you need more info I will be happy to give it. Thanks
 
HIBOY GOT A QUESTION FOR YOU....

I have a CAP8 controller that I am running 240 to and I have Nanolux 600w ballasts that state 120/240v. My question is will I have to switch out the power cord for my ballast in order to not fry it on 240 or will it make the adjustments automatically? The CAP8 instructions say to make sure that my ballast is wired for 240 before plugging into the controller. It seems to me that it should just be plug and play but I would like a second opinion on it. If you need more info I will be happy to give it. Thanks
the ballast detects the volts and makes adjustment as needed.they can actually run from 90v to 240v which also makes them great for generators during power outages.i run quite a few of the nanos and nextgen 600's.
 
HIBOY GOT A QUESTION FOR YOU....

I have a CAP8 controller that I am running 240 to and I have Nanolux 600w ballasts that state 120/240v. My question is will I have to switch out the power cord for my ballast in order to not fry it on 240 or will it make the adjustments automatically? The CAP8 instructions say to make sure that my ballast is wired for 240 before plugging into the controller. It seems to me that it should just be plug and play but I would like a second opinion on it. If you need more info I will be happy to give it. Thanks

Hiboy is really busy these days (geez who isn't right)..gave me permission to answer questions that I feel comfortable answering.
Six is dead on the money..the ballast will detect your voltage.
I too have a CAP controller. They make 2 kinds with different receptacles. They have a special receptacle called and X-Plug on some models. http://www.discount-hydro.com/products/C.A.P.-Universal-X%2dPlug-120{47}240-Receptacle.html so you don't need a 22ov power cord to run 220v.
This will run 120v power cords at 220v. It works because both your neutral and hot wire in your power cord are both sheathed and the same gauge. Hope that answers your question.
 
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Hey so when it comes to electricity i really know nothing, the only grows ive done have been micro grows with t5's, or working in other peoples grow rooms. So ive never really worried about wiring or having to wire anything up. Recently got a huge amount of grow stuff on craigslist for cheap, and am planning on moving into a new spot soon. Hopefully i can get into this spot and will have a full basement, or garage to work in.

My questions are what kind of wiring will i need to run this equipment. I have 2- 600 watt ballasts, one will be HPS and the other is a dimmable 600watt tht ill use for MH, along with that ill have 4 small fans for air circuation, i also have 2 hydrofarm inline fans, 1 is a 4 inch, and the other is a 6 inch. Not sure if ill have to use them both to cool both ballasts or if i set up my tents next to eachother if the 6 inch inline has enough juice to cool both lights and also have carbon scrubber.

I also have a 4ftx 2 bulb t5 i used for seedlings and clones, Im thinking of buying another 4ftx 4 bulb t5 and then either use my other 600watt ballast as HPS to bumb out 1200watt during flower, or just not using the second 600 watter and using T5's for vegging. But i would like to have the option of being able to run 1200 watts.

That being said, what kind of suff would i need to do electricity wise, if i set it up in the basement can i run those lights out of the existing breaker box, or is that not possible. Not sure if theres a thread on this already , but when it comes to electricity im lost, and also a bit scared as i had a close call with electricity as a kid, and i know how its not hard to fuck your day up.

Thanks
Dmac
 
Ya putting in a specific, additional breaker requires working inside the panel. This work needs to be done by an electrician, or someone with lots of actual experience. If you need to circumvent that type of work, I would suggest figuring out what each existing breaker controls. This can be difficult to manage, because sometimes you will have a hidden line on a particualr circuit..such as outside outlets, outside lights, etc. (particularly on a basement circuit or garage circuit). The best way would be to have at least a 15 amp 120v circuit dedicate to lights only and put your fans on another dedicated 15 amp 120v circuit.."dedicated" meaning nothing else is being powered by that particular circuit.
If you can drop some dough..have an electrician come in prior to setting up and install a 20 amp 220v receptacle/breaker in the basement under the guise of a woodworking appliance or something similar..that would run your lights and you could add to itif you need. Then run your fans on an exisiting basement circuit.
 
Hey so when it comes to electricity i really know nothing, the only grows ive done have been micro grows with t5's, or working in other peoples grow rooms. So ive never really worried about wiring or having to wire anything up. Recently got a huge amount of grow stuff on craigslist for cheap, and am planning on moving into a new spot soon. Hopefully i can get into this spot and will have a full basement, or garage to work in.

My questions are what kind of wiring will i need to run this equipment. I have 2- 600 watt ballasts, one will be HPS and the other is a dimmable 600watt tht ill use for MH, along with that ill have 4 small fans for air circuation, i also have 2 hydrofarm inline fans, 1 is a 4 inch, and the other is a 6 inch. Not sure if ill have to use them both to cool both ballasts or if i set up my tents next to eachother if the 6 inch inline has enough juice to cool both lights and also have carbon scrubber.

I also have a 4ftx 2 bulb t5 i used for seedlings and clones, Im thinking of buying another 4ftx 4 bulb t5 and then either use my other 600watt ballast as HPS to bumb out 1200watt during flower, or just not using the second 600 watter and using T5's for vegging. But i would like to have the option of being able to run 1200 watts.

That being said, what kind of suff would i need to do electricity wise, if i set it up in the basement can i run those lights out of the existing breaker box, or is that not possible. Not sure if theres a thread on this already , but when it comes to electricity im lost, and also a bit scared as i had a close call with electricity as a kid, and i know how its not hard to fuck your day up.

Thanks
Dmac

Sounds to me unless you are planning on expanding your grow into something larger you should be good using the current box. If all outlets in the basement are on the same breaker then you would need to add another one. I just veg with t5 24hrs seems to do all right for me. I have never used MH for veg so I have never seen the difference. I say use both in lines one for light venting and the other for the scrubber. More info is needed to make accurate call on the electrical. How many breakers is the basement on? Will you be expanding and adding more lights and ballasts? AC units?
 
Thanks for the response at the moment I'm not positive I'm in the process of looking for a house to rent and have my eye on a small 3 bedroom home with a single car garage. So I don't really know exactly what I'll do until I get the green light to move in.

How much does it cost for an electrician to install a new breaker box for said "woodworking" shop. Obviously hard with the limited info I'm providing , but any rough estimates? Are we talking a couple hundred or closer to a grand?
 
I'm thinking an ac won't be in the picture I'll probly use t5s to veg as there a bit cheaper. Also if I'm in the garage or basement I don't imagine a 600 wat hps getting to hot especially vented with the new inline I got.

I ran that 600 watt hps in a closet with a rinky dink fan as the exhaust and my plants turned out fine, obviously not dialed in great but it provided me with some dank. But I live In The north east so maybe In the summer I'll think about ac.
 
Thanks for the response at the moment I'm not positive I'm in the process of looking for a house to rent and have my eye on a small 3 bedroom home with a single car garage. So I don't really know exactly what I'll do until I get the green light to move in.

How much does it cost for an electrician to install a new breaker box for said "woodworking" shop. Obviously hard with the limited info I'm providing , but any rough estimates? Are we talking a couple hundred or closer to a grand?

A sub-panel will cost you more..but if there's room in the panel, you can just have a 20 amp 220v outlet put in for a few hundred dollars. It really depends on access..does he have to cut into drywall?..how long is the run, etc. Maybe peruse Craigslist for licensed electricians or ask around. There's lots of licensed guys who love side work and will do a good job for cheap. Get your place and we can help walk you through it. There may be a way around getting something installed. You aren't going to be pulling much in the way of amps..so it really just depends on how the electric service is set up in your new spot.
 
Sounds good going to check the place out this week, so ill have more info soon, thanks natural
 
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