Newer construction and electrical codes have these "Arc fault" c/b for most of the 15 & 20 amp circuits supplied, those offer more "arc" style protection to supplied electrical devices. (they don't do anything for smoke) But they're (Arc-fault c/b's) a little temperamental in some situations and some early brands had false tripping issues. Neither here nor there, as they aren't to widely adopted yet.So that protection is for electrical surge as in if your home was struck by lightning. Most have some type thermal trip integrated, but not all. Otherwise lots of people use them, I've got several under my desk with a plethora of cords for my computer and ancillary crap. For our growing endeavors where we may not be watching 24/7 or even in the same room is my only concern with untended electrical apparatus. Lights, fans, tubes that can explode, ballasts that can do the same rupturing their insulation and innards all over. I've seen some controllers that have heat or smoke inputs that will shutdown all the power when/if something like a high heat or smoke situation arises. That would be ideal from an electrical safety outlook. Peace.
It should be fine to supply the miniscule load of the fan, it will only protect you from lightning (electrical surge) damaging the fan and anything else you have plugged into it. That's all the protection it provides, hope that clarifies what I was saying. Let me know if I've answered your question.ill re ask the ? I had
so I have a 100wat inline fan plugged in to a power bar with a surg protection rated to hold up to 3000 jul of power
with it be ok
It should be fine to supply the miniscule load of the fan, it will only protect you from lightning (electrical surge) damaging the fan and anything else you have plugged into it. That's all the protection it provides, hope that clarifies what I was saying. Let me know if I've answered your question.
So your asking is it ok using a power strip to supply a exhaust fan, that trips said protection device? No. find the problem, check for a wiring fault, most likely check everything you've done.
The power box above is an construction site distribution system, not associated with power strips.
Thanks for clarifying my erroneous assumption. Wow $4/ft. and $ 400 for the box (timer, one relay, four plugs, metal enclosure probably $100 in parts) is taking advantage of you/community. Just as a reference range cord can be obtained from any electrical supply in lengths, but then there's the connection to the plug and cracking the cover of the device, which then will void any warrantee.As far as I know you won't find a powerbox on a construction site, they are niche boxes for cannabis growers. Google dpc 8000 to see the model I use. The chord that's on it is the thickest I've seen, it was 4 dollars a foot.
No problem with a power strip (surge protector?) if its rated ti handle ithell thought id ask is it ok to put a exfan/inline in to a power strip I paid good money for it does 3000 jul before over loading
Thank you very much for taking time to understand my situation and try to help me . It means a lot. I'm trying to understand how it might play out, he sees the chords, interprets them as a subistute for permanent wiring? What if I say they are temporary for 90 days? And what about the room immediately adjacent to the kitchen, the power box can easily reach the next room but it has to pass by what used to be a door way but is really just an open room partition at this point. And do they really even violate people for residential extension chords? I can't find any examples .
And what are my rights as a tenant to switch the bedroom outlets to 240s? Would save me some headache but then how do I power the accessories without an extension chord lol...
1440 watts would be what the code would allow. The circuit breaker will carry that as long as there are no motors being started. Remember, you have some ballast loss in the lights that adds to the circuit total wattagehow many watts can a 15 amp pull before getting hot and poping??
I wouldn't say that's actually correct1440 watts would be what the code would allow. The circuit breaker will carry that as long as there are no motors being started. Remember, you have some ballast loss in the lights that adds to the circuit total wattage
No explanation necessary for me. Just trying to convey some basics to the guy with the issue. I've designed much more complex systems for longer than I want to admit.I wouldn't say that's actually correct
1440 watts is the amount that a 15 amp breaker should have maxed out with a continuous load of more than three hours but it would take more wattage for it to trip
Placing more wattage on a break or will just have the breaker we're out quicker but it will trip if there is a safety or heat
Hb
No240v outlet is connected to a 30amp breaker
240v x 30amp=7200 total kw
80%=5760 watts that can be used.
is this correct?
No
You can have a 240 V breaker on many different amperage sizes it depends on your draw is
Hb
You can put them both on 120 V or 240 V either one will holdok.
i would like to power two 600w lights (powered by phantom digital ballasts)
Alright. Got electricity sorted out. But now I wanna know if I can wire in another sub-50a if I already have 200 to the house. Did an electricity map and let's just say the wiring is... unorthodox. Lol. So I wanna a fresh box to play on. Is that to much draw for a residence? Like to much from the main line?Lost power on the circuit shown. Won't come back. No idea what to do. Moved lights to another set of plugs but I'm still without juice to a lot of the building.
Hard to say without being thereAlright. Got electricity sorted out. But now I wanna know if I can wire in another sub-50a if I already have 200 to the house. Did an electricity map and let's just say the wiring is... unorthodox. Lol. So I wanna a fresh box to play on. Is that to much draw for a residence? Like to much from the main line?
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