Growing without nutrients fox farm

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Piero

Piero

46
18
Hello ,
I have one photo gelato 15 days away from switching to 12 . I feel is not that bushy , I have not fertilize the plant once as I’m using fox. Farm Terracraft.
As of today This is the gelato in writing about
Thanks
 
Growing without nutrients fox farm
Growing without nutrients fox farm 2
Growing without nutrients fox farm 3
OutdoorGrowGuy

OutdoorGrowGuy

51
18
Hello ,
I have one photo gelato 15 days away from switching to 12 . I feel is not that bushy , I have not fertilize the plant once as I’m using fox. Farm Terracraft.
As of today This is the gelato in writing about
Thanks

Hello Piero,

"I have one photo gelato 15 days away from switching to 12 . I feel is not that bushy" -

15 days is a stretch I think. You'll be disappointed with the yield, and it'll likely never get it's health back.
Height will be a big issue. It's very tall for your space already.
I feel you should nurse it back to health before you change the light cycle.
Once the plant's health is coming back, I'd chop the top right out before flipping to 12/12. About 3-4 nodes down. (halfway down the photo)
It should encourage more outward, bushy growth.

"I have not fertilize the plant once as I’m using fox. Farm Terracraft."

Mother Earth Terracraft?
Seems to suggest fertilizing after 2-3 weeks.
I believe much of what you're seeing might be for this reason.

How long have you had it in this container?
Have you any general purpose / veg fertilizer on hand? You may well need some.
There's also room on top for organic material, if that's your shtikk.

Also I must be honest and suggest a small amount of gypsum, dolomite lime, or both to amend. It'll help condition your soil and aid with nutrient uptake.
If you need NPK because of depleted soil, then you likely need calcium too. At least that's what I've always found in my own experience. A small handful as a top dressing will not hurt anything. So long as it's gypsum or dolomite. (stay clear of regular lime / garden lime, or oyster shell flour)

Do watch you're not overwatering as already mentioned in above posts. Never used a moisture meter myself, but I wouldn't rely on it for accuracy.
A pot that size can easily go several days without water.

"15 days away from switching to 12"-

Maybe a week or two longer. Once back to health.
Go easy on any fertilizer, especially the bottled stuff. Less is generally more.
Top the plant before changing your light cycle.

GL.
 
Piero

Piero

46
18
Hello Piero,

"I have one photo gelato 15 days away from switching to 12 . I feel is not that bushy" -

15 days is a stretch I think. You'll be disappointed with the yield, and it'll likely never get it's health back.
Height will be a big issue. It's very tall for your space already.
I feel you should nurse it back to health before you change the light cycle.
Once the plant's health is coming back, I'd chop the top right out before flipping to 12/12. About 3-4 nodes down. (halfway down the photo)
It should encourage more outward, bushy growth.

"I have not fertilize the plant once as I’m using fox. Farm Terracraft."

Mother Earth Terracraft?
Seems to suggest fertilizing after 2-3 weeks.
I believe much of what you're seeing might be for this reason.

How long have you had it in this container?
Have you any general purpose / veg fertilizer on hand? You may well need some.
There's also room on top for organic material, if that's your shtikk.

Also I must be honest and suggest a small amount of gypsum, dolomite lime, or both to amend. It'll help condition your soil and aid with nutrient uptake.
If you need NPK because of depleted soil, then you likely need calcium too. At least that's what I've always found in my own experience. A small handful as a top dressing will not hurt anything. So long as it's gypsum or dolomite. (stay clear of regular lime / garden lime, or oyster shell flour)

Do watch you're not overwatering as already mentioned in above posts. Never used a moisture meter myself, but I wouldn't rely on it for accuracy.
A pot that size can easily go several days without water.

"15 days away from switching to 12"-

Maybe a week or two longer. Once back to health.
Go easy on any fertilizer, especially the bottled stuff. Less is generally more.
Top the plant before changing your light cycle.

GL.
 
Piero

Piero

46
18
Hello Piero,

"I have one photo gelato 15 days away from switching to 12 . I feel is not that bushy" -

15 days is a stretch I think. You'll be disappointed with the yield, and it'll likely never get it's health back.
Height will be a big issue. It's very tall for your space already.
I feel you should nurse it back to health before you change the light cycle.
Once the plant's health is coming back, I'd chop the top right out before flipping to 12/12. About 3-4 nodes down. (halfway down the photo)
It should encourage more outward, bushy growth.

"I have not fertilize the plant once as I’m using fox. Farm Terracraft."

Mother Earth Terracraft?
Seems to suggest fertilizing after 2-3 weeks.
I believe much of what you're seeing might be for this reason.

How long have you had it in this container?
Have you any general purpose / veg fertilizer on hand? You may well need some.
There's also room on top for organic material, if that's your shtikk.

Also I must be honest and suggest a small amount of gypsum, dolomite lime, or both to amend. It'll help condition your soil and aid with nutrient uptake.
If you need NPK because of depleted soil, then you likely need calcium too. At least that's what I've always found in my own experience. A small handful as a top dressing will not hurt anything. So long as it's gypsum or dolomite. (stay clear of regular lime / garden lime, or oyster shell flour)

Do watch you're not overwatering as already mentioned in above posts. Never used a moisture meter myself, but I wouldn't rely on it for accuracy.
A pot that size can easily go several days without water.

"15 days away from switching to 12"-

Maybe a week or two longer. Once back to health.
Go easy on any fertilizer, especially the bottled stuff. Less is generally more.
Top the plant before changing your light cycle.

GL.
Thank you , I’ll give it a week or so to see any improvement if not I’ll abort the grow and start and auto . Always a bad experience with photos . If the yield that I’m sure it will be disappointing Plus the energy cost etc . I think is better to restart.
thoughts
 
OutdoorGrowGuy

OutdoorGrowGuy

51
18
Hi!
It has been in the same container since day one . I do have this nutrients
Thanks
Just go slow with it.

Maybe only some 12-6-6 for now. Only 1/3 to 1/2 recommended. See if it responds well and take things from there.

And if you'd prefer using calmag to dry amendment, start off small as well. It will be adding nitrogen content as well.

I'm not familiar with recharge, but if it's a microbe inoculate they tend to affect ph if used overzealously.

Thank you , I’ll give it a week or so to see any improvement if not I’ll abort the grow and start and auto . Always a bad experience with photos . If the yield that I’m sure it will be disappointing Plus the energy cost etc . I think is better to restart.
thoughts
If you don't see improvement, then it might be best to start over.

In my honest opinion, if it's only a matter of a week or two's more time, then it's worth trying to see it through. Otherwise it's all just wasted time.
You might be lucky to get a few ounces, once topped and those lower branches take the lead.

Also consider your lighting. The plant looks like it needs more light. They tend to grow very tall and leggy if there isn't adequate light for them.
Might be light distance, or the light source itself.
If you mention the type of light and output, I'm sure someone will give give some advice.

No problem and good luck.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

26,480
638
Hold tight bro lemmie find timeline pics of the gelato I absolutely crapped on the entire grow.
 
Aqua Man

Aqua Man

26,480
638
I finished 1 the other 1 finished at another grow and 1 was male. Had 3 to start.

Flip is the first. So crowded I found 2. The second pic is after I moved some plants and culled males

3 is close to harvest after beating the crap out of it as it hated the light intensity, nutrient concentration and the few times I had drunken timer mishaps and it dried to the point the were completely slumped over a couple times.

The red dots are the gelato.

Lmao I beat that plant beyond belief and I don't think I have ever grown a plant so abused. The rest tolerated things much better as they were liking thw light and nute concentration.

Have some hope.
 
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growsince79

growsince79

9,065
313
Thank you , I’ll give it a week or so to see any improvement if not I’ll abort the grow and start and auto . Always a bad experience with photos . If the yield that I’m sure it will be disappointing Plus the energy cost etc . I think is better to restart.
thoughts
I thought autos were supposed to be harder to grow. Can't top, transplant or clone. Grows balls every time the dog farts etc.
 
Imzzaudae

Imzzaudae

1,571
263
Lets take a realistic look at your plant. Yellowing lower leaves. Nitrogen deficient.
The striped leaves are also showing signs of Magnesium deficient
Check your PH.
If pH is outside the desired rang (preferably at pH 6. Epsom salts are often used to fix the problem. Try adding a teaspoon of epsom salts to a liter of water and seeing how your plants respond to a feed.
First
Get the PH under control 6.0
No higher. You can use a tablespoon or 2 of apple cider vinegar in a watering can of water to sour the soil.
This is important as the plant cannot see many needed nutrients in the soil if the PH is out of it's range.
It can literally starve to death with everything it needs present in the soil.
2- Go get yourself some Pro-Mix 12-6-6 and water with it 1/2 strength. Keep an eye on the PH for the entire grow.
Pro-mix in black bottle is super easy to use and available at most hardware stores. When you switch to 12 12 switch to Pro-mix 5-15 5.
This is as easy as it gets and your plant will give you it's all.
Growing indoors you need to look study and practice. Mainlining and low stress training.
From what I can see. The plant is very long between nodes. This tells me the light is to far away from the plant.
Not enough light. Ether drop the light down or move the plant up closer to the light.
 
2Bad

2Bad

3,418
263
Lets take a realistic look at your plant. Yellowing lower leaves. Nitrogen deficient.
The striped leaves are also showing signs of Magnesium deficient
Check your PH.
If pH is outside the desired rang (preferably at pH 6. Epsom salts are often used to fix the problem. Try adding a teaspoon of epsom salts to a liter of water and seeing how your plants respond to a feed.
First
Get the PH under control 6.0
No higher. You can use a tablespoon or 2 of apple cider vinegar in a watering can of water to sour the soil.
This is important as the plant cannot see many needed nutrients in the soil if the PH is out of it's range.
It can literally starve to death with everything it needs present in the soil.
2- Go get yourself some Pro-Mix 12-6-6 and water with it 1/2 strength. Keep an eye on the PH for the entire grow.
Pro-mix in black bottle is super easy to use and available at most hardware stores. When you switch to 12 12 switch to Pro-mix 5-15 5.
This is as easy as it gets and your plant will give you it's all.
Growing indoors you need to look study and practice. Mainlining and low stress training.
From what I can see. The plant is very long between nodes. This tells me the light is to far away from the plant.
Not enough light. Ether drop the light down or move the plant up closer to the light
Well we don’t know how far the light is it could actually be too close from the burnt tips. Judging by the No training that’s why his plant that tall
 
Imzzaudae

Imzzaudae

1,571
263
This plant is nutrient locked. Always remember the yellowing lower leaves is what Nitrogen deficiency looks like.
The clawing leaf tips are a sign of to much Nitrogen . We have a conflict.
Add the stripped leaves = Magnesium deficient.
3 visible nutrient issues.
PH issues are very prevalent with indoor grows and new comers to the hobby. This is why I say check the PH. Get it bang on 6.0 and the plant will start growing again.
I'm a fan of organic growing but opening a bag of fancy potting soil and calling it organic, well lets just say that I'm not all that sure on that one.

I do not believe that there is enough bacterial or microbial life in a bagged soil of any kind to sustain a grow without adding nutrients along the way.
And it is this lack of bacterial or microbial life that lead me back to PH. PH issues can and do pop up with this kind of grow.
Before he starts throwing a bunch of nutrients at it that the plant does not need. Remember it's locked.
A $20.00 soil test kit from his local garden center will work wonders rather than guessing.
A soil PH test will tell him where he is at. in short order. If it's above 6 bring it down to 6.0 and the plant will regain its health.
I'd suggest using a test kit rather than an electric tester, I have 3 they just don't work well enough to rely on. A wast of money.
Also do an NPK test they are quick and easy. You don't need to go to the grow shop and drop a bunch of money on fancy grow fertilizers.
You can get Pro Mix at about any hardware or garden center and it's great stuff. Super easy and it works.
As I'm an outdoor grower with large plants, I do boil egg shells once a month extra = Calcium and add this calcium rich water to my watering can.
When my plants start stretching. I add cucumber skins to the egg shells and boil them as well. Cucumber skins very high in potassium.
So Cucumber skins and extra calcium via boiled egg shell and skins water once a month during the flower stage.
IMG 2309 2


All the best. Hope this helps.
 
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