It's also gravity fed. It's strictly there for convenience. The thought behind the idea was to fill my lower and plant resevoirs a little faster than relying on the float valve for 30 gallons. I have valves on everything so I decide where it gets it's water and where it sends it.Ok I see. Out of curiosity, what is the purpose of the top-off plumbed into the pump vs gravity feed into the res?
I ask because if it's a a convenience thing and not vital to normal operation you could try unhooking the inlet hose and submerging the pump instead w the outlet hose left the way it is. Hook the inlet hose back up as needed.
Makes sense.It's also gravity fed. It's strictly convenience. The thought behind the idea was to fill my lower and plant resevoirs a little faster than relying on the float valve for 30 gallons.
Welcome and thanks for the input. I'll mount the pump near the floor to see if that can remedy the situation.You have a nice set up going there. Going to follow. I always keep my pumps outside the reservoirs and even with lower reservoir to prevent any siphoning and also for water temps. If your room is getting to 80 in the summer you will need all the heat control you can get to keep your water temps inline. Go easy on the nutrients especially the additives. The GH, silica, and AG is a real good start. I would start with 50% on the GH. Those air pumps are just noisy as hell. I tried everything and the best I could do was setting it on a big soft towel. RDWC is loud and a lot of work but I have had my best grows doing it.
All those pumps are very loud, and the bad news is they get louder..My air pump is hella loud so it may just end up here. I tried everything but hanging it.View attachment 1330387
I run 2 of the https://kensfish.com/collections/alita-air-pumps-1/products/alita-al-40-linear-air-pump in my rooms, one is 10 yo the other is 3 yo with no problemsThe pump will not primeitself. It either needs to be below the water level or you could try to see if a check valve installed in the line would work.
All those pumps are very loud, and the bad news is they get louder..
This is the most powerful and silent pump going; https://kensfish.com/collections/al.../alita-al-6a-linear-air-pump-12-gang-manifold
They offer larger but IME you don't need more.
The pump if from this page; https://kensfish.com/collections/alita-air-pumps-1
Really great pumps.
Set up is looking good.
With how everything is plumbed, the check valves seem the easiest route. I can't source them locally so I have two on order.The pump will not primeitself. It either needs to be below the water level or you could try to see if a check valve installed in the line would work.
All those pumps are very loud, and the bad news is they get louder..
This is the most powerful and silent pump going; https://kensfish.com/collections/al.../alita-al-6a-linear-air-pump-12-gang-manifold
They offer larger but IME you don't need more.
The pump if from this page; https://kensfish.com/collections/alita-air-pumps-1
Really great pumps.
Set up is looking good.
So I'm seeing two different adapters to control a different light with ACs controller. Type A for 0-10v dimming and Tybe B for resistive dimming. The Type B is the one I want to control a spiderfarmer light (SE5000), correct? I'm under the impression it's just a potentiometer in the driver.Cool! I am on board this train. I just got a system running using the controller 69 with all that stuff. Works great so far. I put my spider farmer light on it w the adapter as well. For early veg I found it much easier to maintain temps and rh by having it cycle the exhaust vs auto or always on low speed. Good luck!
Sorry just saw this, it depends which ballast it came with I believe. Spider Farmer branded ballast takes the type B but there is a compatibility chart that will verify.So I'm seeing two different adapters to control a different light with ACs controller. Type A for 0-10v dimming and Tybe B for resistive dimming. The Type B is the one I want to control a spiderfarmer light (SE5000), correct? I'm under the impression it's just a potentiometer in the driver.
Looking good man, big day!View attachment 1332769
Got everything plumbed, finally. I'll test the drain out after I grab some lunch. I even ran a coupke power cycles and the pump didn't seem to siphon itself dry so the check valves I ordered will be for added protection. Exciting day so far today.
Ok cool, man. I'll look for that chart, thanks.Sorry just saw this, it depends which ballast it came with I believe. Spider Farmer branded ballast takes the type B but there is a compatibility chart that will verify.
Is that 510 ppm reading straight out of the tap?EC pen shows 510 ppm. I know that's high, but is it something I should worry about or should I adjust accordingly?
I'm very pressed for space so I would have to add the RO resevoir in the crawlspace. I really don't like that idea, but I'll do what's necessary. That just sets me back a little further. Better to be as well prepared as possible, I suppose. I'm just not sure how I'd go about getting that large of a tank into the crawlspace. It's about 4-5 feet of vertical space but the opening is too small, for sure. Outside may be my only other option unless I could squeeze a barrel into my bathroom lol. I could use a shelf in there, I guess.As far as getting an RO set up, you want to keep that separate from your hydro system. I had a 55 gallon water storage barrel that I converted into a storage vessel for my grows. I have a submersible pump in the bottom of the barrel and just pump water out of there when I need it. You can plumb that thing to your res with a float shut off valve to automatically top off your res if you wanted to do that. You would need two of those valves, one in your res and one in your RO storage tank so it shuts off when full too.
Keep in mind that those RO filters take some time, you also need a waste line because the way they work they generate some waste water. I would hook up to your supply line and install a float shut off valve that will stop production when your vessel is full. Then you will always have water when you need it.Realistically, I would only need to fill it the day prior to a res change, but that wouldn't allow for emergencies. If it sat, filled, would it need bubblers to keep it oxygenated?
Yeah that was my concern initially, the time it would take to get the 35-45 gallons of water my system will hold. I think if I can make the space, I'll get a 50 gallon barrel and a seperate pump. My systems plumbing isn't something I want to mess with anymore. I just got it finished up today. Running a line to my bathroom isn't an issue. I just don't wanna mess with my complicated manifold I cobbled together. A seperate submersible and a hose would to the trick when the time comes.Keep in mind that those RO filters take some time, you also need a waste line because the way they work they generate some waste water. I would hook up to your supply line and install a float shut off valve that will stop production when your vessel is full. Then you will always have water when you need it.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?