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jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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Here ya go @Smokingreenz

Broad mite is becoming an increasing problem
Columns - Plant Health
Hundreds of samples come into the Cornell University diagnostic laboratory each year. Of the greenhouse inquiries, most begin and are resolved at the pathology lab.

Hundreds of samples come into the Cornell University diagnostic laboratory each year. Of the greenhouse inquiries, most begin and are resolved at the pathology lab.

Many of the insect and mite infestations are relatively easy to identify and don’t usually require the services of a diagnostician. The few exceptions include a large number of broad mite problems associated with spring annuals and cut flowers. Broad mite infested plants are usually submitted as a suspect disease problem. The broad mite symptoms are easily mistaken for those caused by pathogens, herbicides or environmental factors. There are some clues that can help in early recognition before broad mite infestations have spread and damage is severe. Controls need to be carefully selected because not all that work against spider mites are effective on broad mites.

Identifying broad mites
Unlike the more familiar two-spotted spider mite, broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus) belongs to a separate family of “thread-footed” (tarsonemid) mites, which also includes cyclamen mite. Full-grown broad mites are much smaller than two-spotted spider mites and almost invisible to the naked eye (a 10-20X magnifier is helpful).

Adult mites are pale white to almost translucent in color and they have hind legs that are somewhat threadlike in appearance. The females are a bit “broader” in the middle compared with the cyclamen mite.

The “polyphago” part of the Latin name is a clue to the mite’s wide host range including many common greenhouse and outdoor plants. Plants on which broad mites are commonly seen include gerbera, begonia, New Guinea and standard impatiens, English and Algerian ivies, salvia and zonal geranium. Less common hosts include chenille plant, plectranthus, marigold, celosia, hydrangea, fuchsia and jasmine.

There have been complaints of broad mite on peppers (both greenhouse transplants and field production), greenhouse cucumbers and even on potatoes. The host range extends well beyond the crops mentioned. There is no evidence so far that this subtropical mite overwinters outdoors in colder areas like New York.

Signs of broad mites
Broad mites produce translucent or pale white oval eggs, which are uniquely ornamented with small, raised dots that distinguish them from cyclamen mite. Two-spotted spider mite eggs are much larger and spherical. Broad mite eggs are surprisingly large, nearly the size of the females. They are one of the key pieces of evidence when confirming a broad mite infestation.

After the eggs hatch, the flimsy “eggshell” left behind collapses onto the leaf surface. These remnants can confirm the broad mites presence even after an infestation has been controlled.

Usually the mites and eggs can be found on the undersides of leaves, but they are sometimes found on the upper surfaces as well. During warm, dry conditions the mites seem to be isolated to the terminal growth or leaf undersides, or associated with areas where the dense plant canopy results in higher humidity. In some cases layers of terminal leaves can be peeled away to locate mites or eggs or numerous leaves can be scanned to confirm the presence of the pest. It is helpful to submit several symptomatic plants when requesting a diagnosis.

Infestation symptoms
Infestations are usually seen when growers notice distortion and stunting of new growth. Growers frequently mention that the symptoms appeared suddenly. Leaves may be strap-like or cup downward and sometimes flowers are also affected with petals stunted and discolored or with streaks and fine flecks similar to thrips damage.

On standard impatiens, the leaf cupping is also a symptom of downy mildew. Leaf distortion on New Guinea impatiens also looks very much like cultural or environmental (cold temperature) issues, or sometimes resembles thrips damage. Occasionally growers have submitted samples suspecting ethylene or 2,4-D (herbicide) injury.

Two other fairly distinctive symptoms include the fine bronzing under leaves (e.g. gerbera, begonia, celosia and others), and a russeting (brown, corky bark-like texture) on stems of many plants. Both of these symptoms also resemble injury from insecticidal soap sprays.

Broad mite infestations have been most common on vegetatively-grown crops and rarely observed on plugs and seed-grown plants. I suspect this points to the origin of many infestations and has much to do with the increased numbers of complaints since the late 1980s, corresponding to changes in production methods. Broad mite is nearly impossible to detect early and sometimes the source is within a grower’s own range. Growers should work cooperatively with propagators to address the situation when incoming material is the suspected source of infestation.

Also, be aware of the potential of broad mites to hitchhike on the legs of whiteflies. This raises the need to monitor whitefly infestations where broad mites are also found.

Easy to control
The good news is that broad mite is relatively easy to control. In greenhouse vegetable production, biological control with preventive releases of Neoseiulus fallacies, a predatory mite, is often used. This beneficial mite prefers a greenhouse environment that is warm and not too dry, with temperatures in the upper 60°Fs to 70°Fs and humidity ranging from 60-70 percent.

Miticides work well and are more commonly employed for curative use to “clean up” a problem. Not all miticides control broad mites.

Currently labeled products for ornamental greenhouse plants include Avid (and generic versions), Sanmite, Akari, Judo and Pylon. In New York, Akari is not yet labeled for use on broad and cyclamen mites. Note label warnings about plant sensitivity and product information bulletins. Unless labels indicate otherwise, start with two applications around a week to 10 days apart. Make sure to obtain good spray coverage with contact miticides.

Examine new plant growth carefully a week after the last application. Plants should start to appear normal if the treatments are successful. If repeat applications are needed, avoid rotating Sanmite with Akari, as they have similar modes of action. Fortunately, miticide resistance has not yet been a problem with broad mite.

Dan Gilrein is extension entomologist, Cornell University Cooperative Extension, Long Island Horticultural Research and Extension Center, (631) 727-3595; [email protected].

http://www.greenhousemag.com/article/gm_0909_broad_mite_plant_health/
 
S

Smokingreenz

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8
jumpincactus said:
Here ya go @Smokingreenz

Broad mite is becoming an increasing problem
Columns - Plant Health
Hundreds of samples come into the Cornell University diagnostic laboratory each year. Of the greenhouse inquiries, most begin and are resolved at the pathology lab.

Hundreds of samples come into the Cornell University diagnostic laboratory each year. Of the greenhouse inquiries, most begin and are resolved at the pathology lab.

Many of the insect and mite infestations are relatively easy to identify and don’t usually require the services of a diagnostician. The few exceptions include a large number of broad mite problems associated with spring annuals and cut flowers. Broad mite infested plants are usually submitted as a suspect disease problem. The broad mite symptoms are easily mistaken for those caused by pathogens, herbicides or environmental factors. There are some clues that can help in early recognition before broad mite infestations have spread and damage is severe. Controls need to be carefully selected because not all that work against spider mites are effective on broad mites.

Identifying broad mites
Unlike the more familiar two-spotted spider mite, broad mite (Polyphagotarsonemus latus) belongs to a separate family of “thread-footed” (tarsonemid) mites, which also includes cyclamen mite. Full-grown broad mites are much smaller than two-spotted spider mites and almost invisible to the naked eye (a 10-20X magnifier is helpful).

Adult mites are pale white to almost translucent in color and they have hind legs that are somewhat threadlike in appearance. The females are a bit “broader” in the middle compared with the cyclamen mite.

The “polyphago” part of the Latin name is a clue to the mite’s wide host range including many common greenhouse and outdoor plants. Plants on which broad mites are commonly seen include gerbera, begonia, New Guinea and standard impatiens, English and Algerian ivies, salvia and zonal geranium. Less common hosts include chenille plant, plectranthus, marigold, celosia, hydrangea, fuchsia and jasmine.

There have been complaints of broad mite on peppers (both greenhouse transplants and field production), greenhouse cucumbers and even on potatoes. The host range extends well beyond the crops mentioned. There is no evidence so far that this subtropical mite overwinters outdoors in colder areas like New York.

Signs of broad mites
Broad mites produce translucent or pale white oval eggs, which are uniquely ornamented with small, raised dots that distinguish them from cyclamen mite. Two-spotted spider mite eggs are much larger and spherical. Broad mite eggs are surprisingly large, nearly the size of the females. They are one of the key pieces of evidence when confirming a broad mite infestation.

After the eggs hatch, the flimsy “eggshell” left behind collapses onto the leaf surface. These remnants can confirm the broad mites presence even after an infestation has been controlled.

Usually the mites and eggs can be found on the undersides of leaves, but they are sometimes found on the upper surfaces as well. During warm, dry conditions the mites seem to be isolated to the terminal growth or leaf undersides, or associated with areas where the dense plant canopy results in higher humidity. In some cases layers of terminal leaves can be peeled away to locate mites or eggs or numerous leaves can be scanned to confirm the presence of the pest. It is helpful to submit several symptomatic plants when requesting a diagnosis.

Infestation symptoms
Infestations are usually seen when growers notice distortion and stunting of new growth. Growers frequently mention that the symptoms appeared suddenly. Leaves may be strap-like or cup downward and sometimes flowers are also affected with petals stunted and discolored or with streaks and fine flecks similar to thrips damage.

On standard impatiens, the leaf cupping is also a symptom of downy mildew. Leaf distortion on New Guinea impatiens also looks very much like cultural or environmental (cold temperature) issues, or sometimes resembles thrips damage. Occasionally growers have submitted samples suspecting ethylene or 2,4-D (herbicide) injury.

Two other fairly distinctive symptoms include the fine bronzing under leaves (e.g. gerbera, begonia, celosia and others), and a russeting (brown, corky bark-like texture) on stems of many plants. Both of these symptoms also resemble injury from insecticidal soap sprays.

Broad mite infestations have been most common on vegetatively-grown crops and rarely observed on plugs and seed-grown plants. I suspect this points to the origin of many infestations and has much to do with the increased numbers of complaints since the late 1980s, corresponding to changes in production methods. Broad mite is nearly impossible to detect early and sometimes the source is within a grower’s own range. Growers should work cooperatively with propagators to address the situation when incoming material is the suspected source of infestation.

Also, be aware of the potential of broad mites to hitchhike on the legs of whiteflies. This raises the need to monitor whitefly infestations where broad mites are also found.

Easy to control
The good news is that broad mite is relatively easy to control. In greenhouse vegetable production, biological control with preventive releases of Neoseiulus fallacies, a predatory mite, is often used. This beneficial mite prefers a greenhouse environment that is warm and not too dry, with temperatures in the upper 60°Fs to 70°Fs and humidity ranging from 60-70 percent.

Miticides work well and are more commonly employed for curative use to “clean up” a problem. Not all miticides control broad mites.

Currently labeled products for ornamental greenhouse plants include Avid (and generic versions), Sanmite, Akari, Judo and Pylon. In New York, Akari is not yet labeled for use on broad and cyclamen mites. Note label warnings about plant sensitivity and product information bulletins. Unless labels indicate otherwise, start with two applications around a week to 10 days apart. Make sure to obtain good spray coverage with contact miticides.

Examine new plant growth carefully a week after the last application. Plants should start to appear normal if the treatments are successful. If repeat applications are needed, avoid rotating Sanmite with Akari, as they have similar modes of action. Fortunately, miticide resistance has not yet been a problem with broad mite.

Dan Gilrein is extension entomologist, Cornell University Cooperative Extension, Long Island Horticultural Research and Extension Center, (631) 727-3595; [email protected].

http://www.greenhousemag.com/article/gm_0909_broad_mite_plant_health/
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Thanks, I will look more into these mites. Very helpful info in this artcle.
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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BroadMitesOnWhiteFly.jpg


Broad mites hitch hiking on a larger whitefly
 
jumpincactus

jumpincactus

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Mite Treatment: Heat Treatments

Russet, Cyclamen or Broad mites are very sensitive to heat. They are more difficult to control in winter than in summer due to lower greenhouse temperatures.

  • Hot Water Treatment: Soaking infested plants in water held at 111 - 115 degrees F for 15 minutes will destroy these mites without damage to most plants. (Not recommended for Medical or Hemp growers: use Hot Air Treatment)
  • Hot Air Treatment: This method can only be used in contained areas (areas or rooms that can be sealed) by raising the air temperature to 115 degrees F for 15 to 20 minutes. Best results were reported with 100% humidity using (at least) two circulation fans to create some vortex1. As all eggs may not be terminated using this method, weekly repeat applications may be necessary to achieve desired results.
Note 1: Fans are usually NOT necessary for small tents, closets, etc. (if installed, use the return air system for re-circulation). NEVER place fans so they are blowing directly on your plants; they will dehydrate.

Note 2 for Cannabis Growers: efficacy of heat treatment is directly proportional to your canopy density: as canopy density increases, heat treatments will become less effective as pest insects will simply retreat into new node formations. Heat treatments are most effective while in veg cycle.

Mite Treatment: Diatomaceous Earth (DE)

Diatomaceous Earth is a very cost effective method for controlling pest insects, but has some limitations:

  • DE is not target specific. Can not be used with beneficial predator mites in either soil or foliar
  • Looses efficacy in high humidity or becomes wet.
  • Repeated applications can leave undesirable foliar residue
Using Diatomaceous Earth in conjunction with regular Heat Treatments should provide good results.

Mite Treatment: Biological Control (provide supplementary control of Tarsonemid and Eriophyid mites)

Mite Treatment: Natural Bio-Pesticides (OMRI Listed)

  • Beauveria bassiana (Mycotrol -O) is a fungus which infects insects with a disease known as the white muscadine. When spores of this fungus come in contact with the cuticle (skin) of susceptible insects, they germinate and grow directly through the cuticle to the inner body of their host. The fungus proliferates throughout the insect's body, producing toxins and draining the insect of nutrients, eventually killing it.
    • Note: Mycotrol and Botanigard are not specifically listed for Eriophyid or Tarsonemid mites. In this program it is used primarily for the control of vectors: Thrips, Whitefly, etc. that rapidly transport the pest throughout your garden. However, scouting at numerous sites has shown high instances of white muscadine infection in both families of mites.
    • Safety: Beauveria products are reduced risk pesticides. Even so, applicators should wear:
      • long-sleeved shirt and long pants,
      • shoes plus socks
      • dust/mist filtering respirator (WP formulation),
      • waterproof gloves, and
      • goggles (ES formulations).
      • Restricted entry interval (REI) - 4 (ES) or 12 (WP) hrs.
      • Pre-harvest Interval - 0 days (exempt from residue requirements)
    • Environmental safety is good. These products are generally non-toxic to beneficial insects, however, applications to areas where bees are actively foraging should be avoided. Beauveria products should not be applied to water, as they are potentially toxic to fish.
  • Chromobacterium subtsugae (Grandevo) is naturally derived from a newly discovered bacterium, commonly known as Achromacil™, which produces a number of compounds that contribute to the creation of complex modes of action, resulting in a potent biopesticide that is highly active against labeled insects and mites. Control of pests is achieved by unique combinations of repellency, oral toxicity, reduced egg hatch, and reduced fecundity (ability of pest to reproduce). Has also been shown to maintain populations of most beneficial and introduced biological controls.
  • Isaria fumosorosea (=Paecilomyces fumosoroseus), the active component in PFR-97, is a naturally occurring fungus which infects many insect and mite pests that occur on foliage and other aboveground plant, as well as many soil-dwelling pests.
http://www.everwoodfarm.com/Pest_Insect_Cross_Listing/Help_with_Russet_Cyclamen_and_Broad_Mites
 
S

Smokingreenz

31
8
I've looked for weeks for these mites and I've killed all that I can find with a 10x magnafying glass ( not many).
The plant is still doing the same thing.
It's growing healthy and green but srill curling crazy bad
 
S

Smokingreenz

31
8
This is what it's doing. Like I said. It's growing green and healthy, just it's curling like that on all new growth.......HELP!!! It's NOT BROAD MITES
 
20160605 142331
Organikz

Organikz

3,562
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I must say the OG biowar was one of the reasons I don't have fungus gnats. Once it became part of my routine along with high quality neem oil they faded away.
 
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