help me add some hydro to my life!!

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connoisseurde420

connoisseurde420

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I would say I am somewhat experienced in soil, soil-less, and outdoor, but very little hydro action. I want to make a little experiment and add one light of hydro to my op. I have no idea where I will go from there.

I have been reading a lot of information and not done yet but I'm thinking of doing small plant count (about 4) and either a form of rdwc or uc.

I need to veg in a separate room as the flower room will be contstantly full.

I will have 2hp chiller and will be running 3k at a time

How much will it cost me to DIY. I'm too handy to buy one out of the box. Cost is not determining factor but I don't want to unnecessarly spend money.

My timeline is about a month to have this completed. Your thoughts will be appreciated.

C
 
aSilvrHaze

aSilvrHaze

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~$500ish is what my DIY UC 4 site 5gal Lowe's bucket setup cost me. Water pump, air pump, buckets, pvc, fittings, diffusers. I went upscale with the air pump and diffusers, the pump was almost $150 and the diffusers were like $80, so thats a big chunk.
 
connoisseurde420

connoisseurde420

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sweet thats within my reach pretty easy. what kinda yields. with what strain, with how much veg. what seals did you use, I see a lot of people having problems with leaks
 
rick ratlin

rick ratlin

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Ebb and flow or top drip is way simpler, and cheaper to set up. Easy peasy to clean too.

If you're only doing 4 plants, I'd suggest top drip set up. You don't need a huge reservoir like an ebb and flow set up does. Cheap too. The most expensive part is the tray, but you're a DIY guy. For top drip, you'd need a pump.(185 gph should be plenty $15) a rez ($15), dripper tubing and emmiters($15), all available at the casa depot. Drip clean helps too, not cheap but really concentrated. Get a copper coil ($15)from the store (located by the plumbing/pvc area) and use your chiller to cool the rez.

For simplicity sake, hydroton is a great medium, just rinse well before you pot.

Veg time is minimal due to fast growth rates.

Too much to go wrong with UC if you're not committed. Not a hater, just saying
 
connoisseurde420

connoisseurde420

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I can find 4x4 table for cheap 30$ so not worth my effort to build that part but would need to make a stand. w
what kind of weight do you get. how do you time your pump. how big a res site would I need?
 
rick ratlin

rick ratlin

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OK, I'll break down your Q's.

Weight is Entirely dependent on you, and the strain. Here's 3 strains, with a small cookies to the way left. first on left is chem urkel, then a Sativa leaning Stardawg, then a really garlicy stardawg.
DSC 4277 see what i mean?

Pump timing is based on size of plants, media, time flooded, etc, so many details. In reality, there is no answer, you'll just have to spend some time with your ladys, meaning wait till the signs to water. I look at the lower leaves, not the top of the plant. by the time the tops are wilting, full turgor pressure is lost. No biggee, but not good either.

I run hydroton. Let me say now that there are a bunch of types out now. Some types hold more water, they are real porous and misshapen. Those are better for flood and drain. Some types are more spherical, and don't hold water. These are better for top drip. That being said, I run top drip and ebb and flow with both types, and it works fine. Why do I run both? Cause I can't read packaging. I prefer the round hydroton, easier to clean, dries faster( you can water more often) When the hydroton mine stopped being the source(google it) many types began to come out instead of the standard stuff. The porous stuff does not float (mostly) and the spherical hydroton floats. blah blah

So for pump timing, I run no veg sog in 5.5 " pots, and flood a minimum of 5 times during flower. (every 3 hours starting at lights on, and last watering is 1 hour before lights off. This is with the porous hydroton that holds more water. For the non-porous hydroton, I was watering 8 times during 12 hours. Keep in mind larger plant, more watering.

The timer is the standard analog 15minute timer everybody has. Digital timers scare me for water applications.

For top drip, these numbers will apply to the porous hydroton. In veg I run 15 on 15 off. I found my rez got too hot running the pump full time. For flower, I run the same timing as my ebb and flow timing. I'm just getting adjusted to top drip, so this is not set in stone. Any hydroton top drippers feel free to chime in.


For rez size, top drip will not require nearly as much rez size as ebb and flow. For my ebb and flow set up I use the tuff boxes (27 gallon) and fill 22 gallons worth. 3x3 OD tray on top. I top off bout a gallon every 1.5 days. I only flood just about 3 inches, not much. That is about 12-15 gallons to fill. For a 4x4 tray your gonna need a Big rez. You can offset the need for a huge rez if you can fill in the remaing space in the tray. Here's my ghetto attempt at it with some tupperware, after harvest pics. This reduced my total flood volume from 14 gallons to 8gallons.
DSC 4952

If I could go back, I'd have started with top drip, much less water to waste.

My stands are home built outta wood, then painted with kilz. Remember, water is about 8 pounds a gallon. Make em' strong! They're on casters, cause I rotate my trays every 2 days.
DSC 4104
Here's a 3x3 ID tray with a 50 gallon rez. Notice the rez sits on a rolling tray too.
DSC 4120

That's all I got conny, hope it helps, just trying to give back. I will say, the hydro section is weak here. Seems all the action goes on in UC or MPB, or coco. You know there's a ton of folks working with straight hydroton, just so easy peasy. I've been running the same 5 50 Liter bags of hydroton for the past 3 years. For a perpetual gardener, thats a huge savings. Wash over some chicken wire to get the roots and crap off, soak in a strong h202 mix, Then final rinse, and dry over teh same chicken wire rack, done. And don't believe the crap about a pump failure will kill your plants in hours. I've got some moms that have been sent to the garage, going on 3 days now, still not fully wilting. about 100 degrees in there too. Now get to researching!
 
Green Giant

Green Giant

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@rick ratlin. What is your ceiling height above your table? I have limited height so I have never looked into a set up like yours.

Looks nice. Keep up the good work!!
 
rick ratlin

rick ratlin

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@rick ratlin. What is your ceiling height above your table? I have limited height so I have never looked into a set up like yours.

Looks nice. Keep up the good work!!


Thanks for the kind words Green Giant

The tables are 25" tall, top of the pots are 33" The height of the table is decided by how big the rez is.
The trays are wrapped in panda to light proof, but I took it off to show you the set up in use. 185gph eco plus 1/2" line in top drip recycling. Ebb and flow is 3/4" return. Notice the rolling tray is cut just outside the parameters of the flood tray. This allows anchor points for the trellis, making it much sturdier.
DSC 5258
Ceiling is 8'

That gives me 5.5' or 66" between pots and the ceiling. take away about 16-20" from both the cool tube and and that gives you 40-60" of possible growth

This pic that is a yard stick next to the bulb, I've got about 26 inches from the reflector to the ceiling. 12" from tube to canopy. The plants are 26" started at 9 inches. Also, notice the air pump just above the right side of the reflector in the back. It sits in the cold air flow of the a/c, keeping the water nice and cool. That's a aaw attached to a cool tube, two trays under 1K hps, each 4 weeks apart.
DSC 5255

You can run some big bushes, these ladies started at 36", and I really tied em down hard, they're currently they are 12 days in now and are 28" tall. Gotta stay on it every day to pull it off.
DSC 5260


And to prove i'm not bs'n, here's my new stardawg from seed, smells like shrimp scampi.
DSC 5261
There are 2 rules i abide by

1. minimal veg no more than 15 days 2. air cooled lights

With this method, I'm not overwhelmed come harvest time, and stay well within legal numbers too.

Hope this helps!
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

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RDWC is quite stable once you learn your way around it. Did I read that you're planning to buy a 2 Ton chiller? What are you going to do with it, and how? I use the same size unit to cool, dehuey AND chill my RDWC... for a 16kW op! So, I'm thinking it's a little overkill for just 3kW of lights?
 
connoisseurde420

connoisseurde420

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damn rick thanks for the detailed post! I have definately added top drip to my options looks super simple lo veg etc everything im looking for with less water. let Ya know if I need any more help if I go that way... nice to see you pull off with that table so high off the the ground too. I have 8ft ceilings too. o by the way what's typical weight for you?
tyy - I am getting the 2 ton chiller to cool my bare bulb aaws. there are 3k on a flip, plus dehumidifier, plus cool the veg in the summer time. I want this to be year round production room. my 1hp ecoplus won't keep up with 2k so I have portable running till chillking comes. I thought about a 1.5 hp chiller but am afraid they are only rated at 12k btu. that only covers the light from my bulbs... always taking suggestions.


rdwc is what I tried before. was doing alright but there were many errors made, as that was early in my experiments around ten years ago lol. but I'm seeing how fast you hydro guys put out and I'm jelous with my soil plants vegging for months. Also I'm interested to see the quality difference between hydro and soil less using same nutrients. have to be honest...never see good hydro its always a step below what I do but I always hear it CAN be that good. To end, most commercial guys ditch soil for their big ops. Time to step my game up.

thanks guys
 

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