I understand that the NO3 testers have changed over the past few years, with models that offered metering higher ranges of NO3 becoming unavailable IIRC. <--- That's a huge qualifier, btw, IIRC.
My interpretation is that sap sugar levels are that they are used as a measure of health, not so much ripeness, with the idea being the your goal is appropriate sugar content at the right times of day as well. Another instance of reading something in hardcopy that I cannot recall exactly where it was read, so I can't go lay my fingers on it and retype here for you. But in essence you don't want to see high sap sugar levels first thing in the morning (though hell if I can remember WHY, I think this was another article by Hugh Lovel I read and he lays so much on you that your brain had better be nicely folded before starting) as it indicates the wrong type of physiological activity, but you do want to see progressively higher sap Brix levels as the day goes on, as an indicator of health inasmuch as it can show how well the plant is making sugars. Or some shit like that.
One of the problems I've had with measuring plant sap is getting sufficient sap from cannabis. Even using the petiole, I have very poor hand strength and have trouble getting enough sap to get a good reading. Using a refractometer is almost second nature to me as they're also used in saltwater and brackish fishkeeping to measure salinity (or, more correctly, specific gravity).
The other, more or less obvious, is how one properly manipulates conditions so as to achieve this kind of sugar progression. Never mind about the sap pH! But it is another one that I'd like to get my head and practices fully wrapped around.