Help OG Kush has problems

LoveGrowingIt · Nov 26, 2024

Gr33ndoc said:
Even though it is often said that humidity is not so important in the vegi, I suspect this is the reason. Air that is too dry, resulting in a lack of transpiration (moisture is released too quickly via the leaves, resulting in salinization? Burning? ).
I will get a humidifier and keep the humidity higher during the next cycle with the OGKush.

I think humidity is important throughout a plant's life, but the reasons for that importance changes. If they transpire excessively, they may not be able to provide moisture and nutrients to every part of the leaves. That can be a cause of chlorotic leaf tips, and could explain what you're seeing. Also, as the plant grows and the foliage increases and releases more moisture into the air, the plant itself affects the humidity level. That could explain why the problem goes away as the plant gets bigger.

DillyTrying2Learn · Nov 26, 2024

Gr33ndoc said:
That could be the case, the question is, why can't the plant absorb the calcium?
Is it the strain? The humidity? PH value?

The company SanLight has videos on Youtube, they did the experiment why CalMag deficiency comes.
They did not find a solution.
One suspicion is that the strains today grow very quickly and have a lot of power and cannot absorb enough calcium.
Another suspicion is the LED lamps. I didn't have anything like that in the past with NDL.

They also said that not all strains show this behavior. Some get it very early, some get it very late or not at all.

me too ;-)

My first run the problem lasted about 2 or 3 weeks in veg, this time I'm ready to flip and it's still happening. I also switched from Athena to Jacks due to cost.

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

Here are pictures from today. It doesn't get any better than this.
I'm going to spray BAC Plant Vitality Plus tonight before lights out, it's a fine stuff. If it is a fungus, it should be slowly contained.
Overall it looks healthy, which I find strange. Excess would also be noticeable on the top tips, but they look healthy.

Could it be that the disease is already in the seed? Cultivated 2 x and 2 x this problem.

Bdubs · Nov 27, 2024

Stomata closure, unable to transpire. 1.74 VPD in veg is way too high.

bring that to .9-1.2 max in veg on VPD. Make sure the stomata is fully open and able to transpire. If the plant can’t transpire, the leaves dry and crisp up from retaining moisture.

This is most likely an environmental issue not a plant issue. Back to the basics. If Ph is good, water temps is good, ppm is good, light isn’t burning then environment is your issue.

If I saw 1.74 VPD on my probe, I would be in the room immediately trying to bring the humidity up or temps down. Hell in flower I would be in there twice as fast fixing environment as 1.74 is more like late flower VPD.

Fix the environment and you correct her drinking/eating. Then you can asses this deficiency.

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

Bdubs said:
Stomata closure, unable to transpire. 1.74 VPD in veg is way too high.

bring that to .9-1.2 max in veg on VPD. Make sure the stomata is fully open and able to transpire. If the plant can’t transpire, the leaves dry and crisp up from retaining moisture.

This is most likely an environmental issue not a plant issue. Back to the basics. If Ph is good, water temps is good, ppm is good, light isn’t burning then environment is your issue.

If I saw 1.74 VPD on my probe, I would be in the room immediately trying to bring the humidity up or temps down. Hell in flower I would be in there twice as fast fixing environment as 1.74 is more like late flower VPD.

Fix the environment and you correct her drinking/eating. Then you can asses this deficiency.

Hi Dbubs!
Thank you very much for this detailed explanation! It was also my thought that the humidity is too low (currently 40%) and the temperature too high (25°C).
It's winter here at the moment and the warm heating air dries everything out.

Could it be compared to dry lips/eyes in humans? Because the air is too dry? I have a humidity of 35% in the living room where the grow boxes are!
This air is then drawn into the box. As the plant does not yet transpire enough, there is no humidity in the air.

This was also one of my thoughts, thank you very much! I ordered a humidifier yesterday and until then I will hang wet cloths in the box :-)

I hope that I can get the problem under control this way.

You think it's not a fusarium?
Are the burnt areas caused by the water from the blowers being released too quickly into the environment, causing salts to be deposited in the leaves, which in turn leads to burns?

amneziaHaze · Nov 27, 2024

35% is not good for a living room even we humans love 60%.
Hey how are your calcium and magnesium so you feed her that?

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

amneziaHaze said:
35% is not good for a living room even we humans love 60%.
Hey how are your calcium and magnesium so you feed her that?

I know, but I find it difficult to achieve a higher humidity level with active heating.
I think the humidifier will arrive tomorrow, I hope it will be better then.

There should be enough CalMag in it. I use T.A/GHE Tripart Softwater. I have written to GHE and sent them my water values. They said there was enough.

I also add silicates from GHE, these are supposed to promote the absorption of calcium.

My tap water contains 51mg/L calcium and 16mg/L magnesium with a pH value of 7.7

It also concerns ONLY OG Kush from Barneys Farm. Not for the first time, 2nd time, same batch of seeds.
Banana Punch and Runtz Muffin from Barneys no problems.
Special Queen RQS no problems.
Sticky Beast Zamnesia no problems.

I think the strain is a mimosa

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

Bdubs said:
Stomata closure, unable to transpire. 1.74 VPD in veg is way too high.

bring that to .9-1.2 max in veg on VPD. Make sure the stomata is fully open and able to transpire. If the plant can’t transpire, the leaves dry and crisp up from retaining moisture.

This is most likely an environmental issue not a plant issue. Back to the basics. If Ph is good, water temps is good, ppm is good, light isn’t burning then environment is your issue.

If I saw 1.74 VPD on my probe, I would be in the room immediately trying to bring the humidity up or temps down. Hell in flower I would be in there twice as fast fixing environment as 1.74 is more like late flower VPD.

Fix the environment and you correct her drinking/eating. Then you can asses this deficiency.

It occurs to me that the leaf temperature of healthy leaves is about 21°C, the damaged/dry leaves over 31°C!
They “cook” :-)

amneziaHaze · Nov 27, 2024

In a small space you could put a bucket of water with an airstone it makes a small impact

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

amneziaHaze said:
In a small space you could put a bucket of water with an airstone it makes a small impact

good tip, I'll try that until the dehumidifier arrives.
Thanks to you!

Bdubs · Nov 27, 2024

Bdubs said:
Fix the environment and you correct her drinking/eating. Then you can asses this deficiency.

Just to be clear here. Don’t change your nutrient feed. Just fix the environment and feed the same as always, watch for progression of symptoms to stop. If they do not stop progression then time to add nutrients or reduce intensity.

PS: if you are pushing plant limits on light, who cares what some test said, add 1ml per gallon all grow. 2ml gal if you are doing a lot of HsT and cutting throughout the grow.

When we push limits on light to get that big bud chronic we are looking for you need to keep cal/mag available in plethora. Without proper calcium you can’t process anything else at proper amounts. So you can go overboard on calmag, but you want to add it regardless because I/we all push limits on light and requirements. Don’t go deficient in calmag. Calmag products also have iron in them and that’s a really good addition. maybe even the Key to CalMag is the Iron!

Bdubs · Nov 27, 2024

Always always add CalMag before anything else to your water.
-silica products and insecticides
-calmag
-then follow your order of the rest

Bdubs · Nov 27, 2024

Bdubs said:
Always always add CalMag before anything else to your water.
-silica products and insecticides
-calmag
-then follow your order of the rest

This is critical for adhesion and absorbtion of nutrients to the silica and the molecular bond order that the plant/soil receives/holds the nutrients. Calmag is needed first in the chain to process the rest. So mix it in first and silica very first because you will want all the. Nutrients to bond on top of the silica molecules. If you add silica last or mid way, you create a block to nutrients. So it always goes very first. Insecticides because they usually use zantham gum for adhesion to roots, it will also “hide” nutrients in the same manner.

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

Bdubs said:
Just to be clear here. Don’t change your nutrient feed. Just fix the environment and feed the same as always, watch for progression of symptoms to stop. If they do not stop progression then time to add nutrients or reduce intensity.

PS: if you are pushing plant limits on light, who cares what some test said, add 1ml per gallon all grow. 2ml gal if you are doing a lot of HsT and cutting throughout the grow.

When we push limits on light to get that big bud chronic we are looking for you need to keep cal/mag available in plethora. Without proper calcium you can’t process anything else at proper amounts. So you can go overboard on calmag, but you want to add it regardless because I/we all push limits on light and requirements. Don’t go deficient in calmag. Calmag products also have iron in them and that’s a really good addition. maybe even the Key to CalMag is the Iron!

All right, I'll leave everything as it is, just change the temperature and humidity.

You say always have enough CalMag in the nutrient solution, but what happens if there is too much CalMag? Then there must be a lockout, right?

Many thanks for your support

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

Bdubs said:
Always always add CalMag before anything else to your water.
-silica products and insecticides
-calmag
-then follow your order of the rest

That's exactly how I do it.
First the silicates, then, if necessary, CalMag, then the normal nutrients

Bdubs · Nov 27, 2024

Gr33ndoc said:
All right, I'll leave everything as it is, just change the temperature and humidity.

You say always have enough CalMag in the nutrient solution, but what happens if there is too much CalMag? Then there must be a lockout, right?

Many thanks for your support

You won’t go overboard if you use 1ml and 2ml per gallon and depending on how hard you are training her and hitting her with light. You shouldn’t need more than 2ml per gallon under the most extensive limits, only if you venture into CO2 would you ever need more. Every mix add it, be very consistent with it (pick 1/1.5/2ml depending) all grow (until ripen phase week 8 you drop it completely) the plant will be a rockstar (with proper environment).

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

Bdubs said:
You won’t go overboard if you use 1ml and 2ml per gallon and depending on how hard you are training her and hitting her with light. You shouldn’t need more than 2ml per gallon under the most extensive limits, only if you venture into CO2 would you ever need more. Every mix add it, be very consistent with it (pick 1/1.5/2ml depending) all grow (until ripen phase week 8 you drop it completely) the plant will be a rockstar (with proper environment).

All right, I'll give it a try. From now on, I'll add CalMag every time I change the nutrient solution.
One gallon is 3.8 liters, so I add 0.25-0.5ml/L.
Thank you very much

Bdubs · Nov 27, 2024

Yes sir. My pleasure.

amneziaHaze · Nov 27, 2024

I have tiny plants and i give her every day almost a gram of epson

Gr33ndoc · Nov 27, 2024

amneziaHaze said:
I have tiny plants and i give her every day almost a gram of epson

What is epson?

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