HELP! Plants wilting and yellowing!

[Madbud]

You don’t have to pull 240 plants. If ONE is that wet you buy 240 tampons to slide into the pots.

 

[Aqua Man]

I don't have time to pull 240 plants out of their pots and dry on paper towels unfortunately.

I'm the assistant on this grow so all I can do is relay the advice and hope for the best.

To address your points,

We have turned the lights down from 115% to 100% and decided to let the plants dry out another day so we'll keep checking in to ensure they aren't wilting yet but I think they'll go another day without water.

As far as the Nitrogen deficiency, I relayed the advice you've given but the grower is saying there is plenty in the Bloom food, so I will reinforce your point with the concentration being different to see if his opinion changes.

This is my thought process as to why our grower doesn't see much potential in changing too many factors at this point, being week 6, the damage is done, and we can only hope for the best and keep them drinking/healthy.

I agree wholeheartedly in this, first sign of root rot, transplant to a bigger pot with fresh soil. I plan on drilling more holes in our pots from now on, we used to do this when we ran with the plastic bag type pots, not sure why we neglected to do it this season.

All great points, thank you!

Quick run down for ya
1st issue: Plants are transitioned to flower and are burned due to lights being 115% first 48 hours.
2nd issue: Fungus Gnats causing root rot/signs of over watering due to bottom of pot being rotten/wet.
3rd issue: Plants show signs of over-watering from flushing due to root drenches for gnats and high EC/low pH runoff.
4th issue: Possible Nitrogen deficiency
5th issue: Powdery Mildew spotted, sprayed Plant Therapy 3 days straight, still some PM showing on the tops of our bigger plants, still spraying accordingly.

The concrete floor stays about the same temperature as the room, 76-80 degrees F.


Again, thank everyone for all the help, I hope I don't come off the wrong way. I am here to learn, listen, and I appreciate you all for being here to help me grow as a cultivator.

Nope you don’t come across as anything but sincere and honest

 

[Slickrick82]

I'm having similar issue but not like urs. Looks like the newer leaves and older look green but then the outer looking slight yellow. Little tip hear and there are brown. In reused living soil.

 

[Mechman60]

I'm having similar issue but not like urs. Looks like the newer leaves and older look green but then the outer looking slight yellow. Little tip hear and there are brown. In reused living soil.

I've never had a grow that didn't shed a few fans during end of veg. I might be waiting to long but when it gets to shedding too many yellows I flip em,
I think that's why I grow slow but it seems to get me tree trunks to suck up nutes and races to the finish. Probably losing a week only to almost catch up up in the end. Trees. Obviously I train to horizontal grows all the budz get light. This the 1st day of training.

 

[Mechman60]

I've never had a grow that didn't shed a few fans during end of veg. I might be waiting to long but when it gets to shedding too many yellows I flip em,
I think that's why I grow slow but it seems to get me tree trunks to suck up nutes and races to the finish. Probably losing a week only to almost catch up up in the end. Trees. Obviously I train to horizontal grows all the budz get light. This the 1st day of training.

This last pic is just before flipping. The brown leaf tips come and go during the growing, no real problem.

 

[KeytheCaregiver]

I've never had a grow that didn't shed a few fans during end of veg. I might be waiting to long but when it gets to shedding too many yellows I flip em,
I think that's why I grow slow but it seems to get me tree trunks to suck up nutes and races to the finish. Probably losing a week only to almost catch up up in the end. Trees. Obviously I train to horizontal grows all the budz get light. This the 1st day of training.

This is quite the Stress training, ever think about topping your plants?

 

[Mechman60]

This is quite the Stress training, ever think about topping your plants?

Yes, On the next grow. White Runtz. Thanks for the encouragement. Any tips, there getting ready now

 

[KeytheCaregiver]

Yes, On the next grow. White Runtz. Thanks for the encouragement. Any tips, there getting ready now

Once you see the next set of leaves popping out of the stem, I would top them, give them a few days to recover then transplant.

 

[KeytheCaregiver]

UPDATE

We watered the plants today with 6.5 pH / 0.3 EC RO water + hydrobio + mosquito bites

Plants were beginning to wilt due to lack of water, some more than others

Will take pictures tomorrow and pray for the best

 

[Madbud]

UPDATE

We watered the plants today with 6.5 pH / 0.3 EC RO water + hydrobio + mosquito bites

Plants were beginning to wilt due to lack of water, some more than others

Will take pictures tomorrow and pray for the best

When did they stop wilting?

 

[Nightstick008]

New member here! Just been keeping to myself and exploring the forums past couple weeks.

Some information on the grow conditions
Temp: 80-82 F Daytime
72-74 F Nighttime
RH: was...38-42% (without dehum controllers)
now....45-50%
We have had issues with the ladies adjusting to the Gavita 1930e's after being under stock T5's for veg. We've solved that issue moving forward but we can't decide if these burnt edges/tips are necessarily light burn from the switch or something else entirely.

So far we've come up with possible over-watering of the plants, and cut down on their water intake. They seem to be improving.
View attachment 1270619
Overhead shot of the same plant. Wilting, serrated edges more pronounced.
View attachment 1270620
Major wilting, yellowing leaves daily, wilting top to bottom.
View attachment 1270621View attachment 1270622

Most definitely nute lock out.

 

[KeytheCaregiver]

When did they stop wilting?

Not all of the plants were wilting, but those that were had soaked bottoms and possible root rot due to Fungus Gnats and over watering. They haven't stopped wilting and that's my reasoning behind this thread in the first place.

To update you...we didn't water for 3 days to allow the plants to completely dry out then yesterday I gave them 6.5/0.2 of RO Water + Hydrobio + Mosquito Bites

Today the plants are still wilting, and look over watered

Checked the runoffs after watering yesterday and will post here momentarily.

 

[Madbud]

Just a guess but your 65% soil is 90% peat which never dries out. Coco and perlite help but peat is peat and it never dries out, 3 days is nothing when the roots are damp.

 

[KeytheCaregiver]

Just a guess but your 65% soil is 90% peat which never dries out. Coco and perlite help but peat is peat and it never dries out, 3 days is nothing when the roots are damp.

Ingredients include composted forest humus, sphagnum peat moss, perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, humic acid, oyster shells, and dolomitic lime for pH adjustment. 2 cubic foot bag, equaling 51.4 U.S. dry quarts, or 56.6 liters.

*I don't understand the pH adjustment part, I remember @Aqua Man mentioning not worrying about the pH of the solution and more on the alkalinity of the soil. Can you go into depth on this?

 

[Aqua Man]

The peat and a few other ingredients break down into acids. Like humic and fulvics which lower PH. The oyster shells and dolomite lime break down into alkaline souces that create a buffering effect of those acids to create a ph balance that is both stable and sustainable over long periods.

The ph potential of the soil is the make up of these sources that produce acidic and alkaline elements. Its the ratios of these that determine the ph. Its the quantity of these that determines the stability.

See PH is a result of ratios nothing more. The amount of each provides the stability. Both sources in this soil break down over time providing a long lasting buffer.

Ph is a measurement in water… so only dissolved elements can wffect it. This means over time as they break down the soils ability to buffer water becomes lower. But most have more than enough for a grow cycle. Unless you are feeding with excessive run off or excessive flushing

The PH potential of the soil is the amount of these sources in the soil.

So you start out like this.

A=acidic B=alkaline

AAAAAAAAAA/BBBBBBBBBB

10/10

So when you add say nutrients that are generally slightly acidic your ph stays stable.

With nutrients added.

11/10

Now adding ph adjustments to you water would be like adding 1 A or B. Its useless. Because it wont change the PH potential of the soil enough. Although over time it can have an effect.

In soil when the PH is out you amend the soil to being back the PH potential and provide a larger buffer

 

[Mechman60]

The peat and a few other ingredients break down into acids. Like humic and fulvics which lower PH. The oyster shells and dolomite lime break down into alkaline souces that create a buffering effect of those acids to create a ph balance that is both stable and sustainable over long periods.

The ph potential of the soil is the make up of these sources that produce acidic and alkaline elements. Its the ratios of these that determine the ph. Its the quantity of these that determines the stability.

See PH is a result of ratios nothing more. The amount of each provides the stability. Both sources in this soil break down over time providing a long lasting buffer.

Ph is a measurement in water… so only dissolved elements can wffect it. This means over time as they break down the soils ability to buffer water becomes lower. But most have more than enough for a grow cycle. Unless you are feeding with excessive run off or excessive flushing

The PH potential of the soil is the amount of these sources in the soil.

So you start out like this.

A=acidic B=alkaline

AAAAAAAAAA/BBBBBBBBBB

10/10

So when you add say nutrients that are generally slightly acidic your ph stays stable.

With nutrients added.

11/10

Now adding ph adjustments to you water would be like adding 1 A or B. Its useless. Because it wont change the PH potential of the soil enough. Although over time it can have an effect.

In soil when the PH is out you amend the soil to being back the PH potential and provide a larger buffer

Thanks, ph levels are detrimental to a good grow. Many claim they don't every monitor it and say "I do fine and don't ever adjust it". I don't think they have any grows to compare it to so they really don't know what there missing.

 

[Aqua Man]

In media like coco, rockwool and hydro we dont have that buffering added to the media so THATS why it’s crucial for those types of grows to PH adjust all nutrient solution.

The other reason to ph a nutrient solution is for mixing. Some nutrients dont do well at high PH above 8 and will precipitate out of the solution usually micros.

So when using something with high alkalinity like potassium silicate that can raise PH to 11+ you ALWAYS add then first then Ph down to 6.5 ish before adding other nutrients. This is only done to prevent precipitation of nutrients and not to reach a specific PH in soil. Like i said other medias are different

 

[Aqua Man]

Thanks, ph levels are detrimental to a good grow. Many claim they don't every monitor it and say "I do fine and don't ever adjust it". I don't think they have any grows to compare it to so they really don't know what there missing.

Or they don’t need to because the soil does it for them and they just don’t realize that. Imo there is absolutely no need to PH adjust nutrients for a soil grow when your using a pre buffered soil like pretty much every soil or peat mix available

 

[Madbud]

Ingredients include composted forest humus, sphagnum peat moss, perlite, earthworm castings, bat guano, humic acid, oyster shells, and dolomitic lime for pH adjustment. 2 cubic foot bag, equaling 51.4 U.S. dry quarts, or 56.6 liters.

View attachment 1274143View attachment 1274144View attachment 1274145

*I don't understand the pH adjustment part, I remember @Aqua Man mentioning not worrying about the pH of the solution and more on the alkalinity of the soil. Can you go into depth on this?

The frog is happy because of the fungus gnats, a very difficult soil to dry. Good for seedlings but needs 30% perlite for good aeration.

 

[Mechman60]

Or they don’t need to because the soil does it for them and they just don’t realize that. Imo there is absolutely no need to PH adjust nutrients for a soil grow when your using a pre buffered soil like pretty much every soil or peat mix available

I'm working on the media mix now. My plants are saying the same thing you are. I've been working hard not smart and I need to change that also. You've been a great help in changing my media mix. Can't wait to transplant into it.