Help please! is this PM??

[Kopper1013]

Ok I’ll get on that while I wait for the L.A.B to grow (apparently that takes better part of 10 days)

Thanks guys

 

[Deadstill]

I should say 2/3’s of the way through on two girls who where close to the infected plant

Is it true some plants are stronger at preventing WPM my Granddaddy purple and my Trainwrech where close to her and are the ones in weeks 5-7

Allegedly. But in the future you could foliar spray some potassium silicate before you switch to flower, it helps prevent PM

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Allegedly. But in the future you could foliar spray some potassium silicate before you switch to flower, it helps prevent PM

You can also use potassium silicate before flowering to strengthen the plant. In the case, you would water it in. I've used Southern Ag's Garden Friendly Fungicide but it's best as a preventative. I picked up a new product today to test. It's called "Flying Nuke em Skull" plant fungicide. It's mode of action is different. It creates a hostile environment to molds on the plant tissue using natural ingredients. The biocide uses a form of Bacillus as its active ingredient.

I also found a product NOT TO USE. It will fail dispensary flower if found during testing in my state. It's called NFuse. It's a systemic chemical based product and I'm told its nasty stuff.

 

[Kopper1013]

Ugh the learning curve is a steep one

So Deadstill you said if you have it on a leaf the plant is covered, dose that mean even if I was to harvest now it isn’t safe?

I wanna try to protect the 2 but if they’re not safe cause they where next to the sick one I REALLY don’t wanna get anyone sick

 

[Glomus]

You can also use potassium silicate before flowering to strengthen the plant. In the case, you would water it in. I've used Southern Ag's Garden Friendly Fungicide but it's best as a preventative. I picked up a new product today to test. It's called "Flying Nuke em Skull" plant fungicide. It's mode of action is different. It creates a hostile environment to molds on the plant tissue using natural ingredients. The biocide uses a form of Bacillus as its active ingredient.

I also found a product NOT TO USE. It will fail dispensary flower if found during testing in my state. It's called NFuse. It's a systemic chemical based product and I'm told its nasty stuff.

Yeah I'm a fan of the compost teas and LAB methods and using them threw out your grow as a preventative. Not on the mature buds of course but yeah I don't like using fungicides but as a last resort. Didn't mean to sound like I was down playing the dangerous of PM and molds MIGrampa thank you for correcting me. Systemics are always a no no.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Ugh the learning curve is a steep one

So Deadstill you said if you have it on a leaf the plant is covered, dose that mean even if I was to harvest now it isn’t safe?

I wanna try to protect the 2 but if they’re not safe cause they where next to the sick one I REALLY don’t wanna get anyone sick

I'll answer here ... if they are infected, WPM will show. Now is the time to step up your defenses. However until they show they are infected, assume they are okay. Just wash your buds as part of the harvesting process.

 

[Kopper1013]

I'll answer here ... if they are infected, WPM will show. Now is the time to step up your defenses. However until they show they are infected, assume they are okay. Just wash your buds as part of the harvesting process.

ok thank y’all again, so wonderful have a resource like this place to reach for especially for someone who is just trying things out for the first time

 

[mike1980]

Look into potassium bicarbonate used in wine making and many other things for PM treatment in flower.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Look into potassium bicarbonate used in wine making and many other things for PM treatment in flower.

Very good answer. It works by raising the pH on the leaves ... making the plant tissue a hostile environment to WPM and other fungal diseases

 

[Glomus]

Very good answer. It works by raising the pH on the leaves ... making the plant tissue a hostile environment to WPM and other fungal diseases

Yet also ends up in the soil disrupting microbial life. Or can at least if the application is high.

 

[Glomus]

Come on guys, ELE "Everybody LOVE Everybody!"

 

[Justlovetogrow]

Come on guys, ELE "Everybody LOVE Everybody!"

Yea sorry mate don’t normally call people out especially on someone else’s thread totally unacceptable and I apologise

 

[Glomus]

Yea sorry mate don’t normally call people out especially on someone else’s thread totally unacceptable and I apologise

Im just messing around, trying to be funny, its from the movie Semi Pro

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

Yet also ends up in the soil disrupting microbial life. Or can at least if the application is high.

I'm not saying that none ends up on the ground because some does ... but you dust the leaves with it. It has it's place in your tool kit. Just like DE. It's natural and non toxic but its still a chemical compound. Anything out of balance has the ability to disrupt the soil ecosystem. This becomes far less of a problem if you're using aerated beneficial microbe teas as a regular part of your regimen.

 

[Glomus]

I'm not saying that none ends up on the ground because some does ... but you dust the leaves with it. It has it's place in your tool kit. Just like DE. It's natural and non toxic but its still a chemical compound. Anything out of balance has the ability to disrupt the soil ecosystem. This becomes far less of a problem if you're using aerated beneficial microbe teas as a regular part of your regimen.

I think introducing teas is debatable as well. Some of those microbial systems take a longtime to establish in the soil and dumping a ton of new microbes into the soil medium regularly isn't always beneficial. depending on different variables with your tea composition. In my opinion compost teas are better for foliar sprays and teas that have high feeds, have completely broken down and become inactive are good for soil feeds. But everyone does their own thing with compost teas it seems. Have you heard of the pest control method using water with a high acidic PH as a spray followed 15 minutes later by a base solution to neutralize the acids?

 

[Kopper1013]

Well the plan is

Treat tomorrow with 50/50 hydrogen peroxide

I will start a batch of
L.A.B

Monday I have 2lbs of Potassium Bicarbonate being delivered and they’ll get a treatment of that and if it seems to work () I’ll continue every 7 days or so till a week from harvest bare minimum

 

[Glomus]

Well the plan is

Treat tomorrow with 50/50 hydrogen peroxide

I will start a batch of
L.A.B

Monday I have 2lbs of Potassium Bicarbonate being delivered and they’ll get a treatment of that and if it seems to work () I’ll continue every 7 days or so till a week from harvest bare minimum

I think you can just buy LAB products, that way you know for sure thats what you are using.

 

[MIGrampaUSA]

I think introducing teas is debatable as well. Some of those microbial systems take a longtime to establish in the soil and dumping a ton of new microbes into the soil medium regularly isn't always beneficial. depending on different variables with your tea composition. In my opinion compost teas are better for foliar sprays and teas that have high feeds, have completely broken down and become inactive are good for soil feeds. But everyone does their own thing with compost teas it seems. Have you heard of the pest control method using water with a high acidic PH as a spray followed 15 minutes later by a base solution to neutralize the acids?

Here's what I do. It's nothing fancy. It's not cheap but if you think about it ... it makes sense.

I use Roots Organic original for seedlings. Roots Organic Lush for veg and flower. I use 4 products for nutrients. Roots Organic Grow, Then Roots Organic Bloom, Then Roots Organic Bloom Booster. Roots Organic Microbe Charge is the special sauce that brings this all together during my aeration process. Why? Because I trust that Aurora Innovations R&D team designed these products to work together ... and they really do when used in a sensible way. I've used other brands and product lines but this is what works best for me. Its far from rocket science. It's more like using the KISS approach. You may have your favorite product line. There's a lot out there and many are good.

Outdoors, I grow in fabric bags which I place in the ground. Indoors, I grow with air pots. When I'm done with each run, I use new soil for the next run and recycle the old into the raised bed vegetable gardens. I'm not one bit worried about the microbes. Once the soil is in the raised beds, its outside where nature can correct things and bring it back into balance.

The rest is gardening experience which no matter how much I know, I always learn new things. Gardening is a fascinating hobby ... and growing cannabis makes it just that much more rewarding.

 

[mike1980]

Well the plan is

Treat tomorrow with 50/50 hydrogen peroxide

I will start a batch of
L.A.B

Monday I have 2lbs of Potassium Bicarbonate being delivered and they’ll get a treatment of that and if it seems to work () I’ll continue every 7 days or so till a week from harvest bare minimum

Let us know what works best for you. The potassium bicarbonate is mixed in water and sprayed on. I think it's a table spoon per gallon but confirm that. I would spray right before dusk

 

[Glomus]

Here's what I do. It's nothing fancy. It's not cheap but if you think about it ... it makes sense.

I use Roots Organic original for seedlings. Roots Organic Lush for veg and flower. I use 4 products for nutrients. Roots Organic Grow, Then Roots Organic Bloom, Then Roots Organic Bloom Booster. Roots Organic Microbe Charge is the special sauce that brings this all together during my aeration process. Why? Because I trust that Aurora Innovations R&D team designed these products to work together ... and they really do when used in a sensible way. I've used other brands and product lines but this is what works best for me. Its far from rocket science. It's more like using the KISS approach. You may have your favorite product line. There's a lot out there and many are good.

Outdoors, I grow in fabric bags which I place in the ground. Indoors, I grow with air pots. When I'm done with each run, I use new soil for the next run and recycle the old into the raised bed vegetable gardens. I'm not one bit worried about the microbes. Once the soil is in the raised beds, its outside where nature can correct things and bring it back into balance.

The rest is gardening experience which no matter how much I know, I always learn new things. Gardening is a fascinating hobby ... and growing cannabis makes it just that much more rewarding.

OK so no dis respect to your method, but having that many nutrients in your tea is really more of nutrient tea than a compost tea. If you don't have a process to get the roots inoculated with mycorrhizae you are not really doing organic farming. If your not re using your soil it should have plenty of nutrients in it to get you threw veg with a little fish and kelp before they start pushing. Organic farming is about the amendments you add into your soil and the how well the microbes are breaking those down and feeding your plant. Its not about feeding your plant with liquid nutes but rather feeding your living soil. "Organic" nutes, but after looking at the ingredients on roots organic thats all the same stuff I use pretty much. I just amend all that into my soil and let the microbes get to work all season long, while sometimes top dressing for a little extra P. and try not to disturb the soil. I don't even mess with bloom boosters anymore. High phosphorous will kill your Mycorrhizae and they are gimicky. But If you are not reusing your soil your missing out on nutrients that take a longer time to break down such a secondary and complex amendments that sometimes take 4-6 months to break down. I always reuse my soil adding a bit of fresh amendments and compost to it every season.

Feeding the plant the basic NPK is easy but those secondary nutes and minerals are when the strains full spectrum of traits really shine thru, and that isn't as easy as buying a product of secondary nutes or minerals and just feeding it in when you think you might have a deficiency. Your soil should be getting better and better every year. Also if you get the mycorrhizae really going in the soil, trenches are better as the fungus creates a web that connects the plants to each other feeding each other when there is deficiencies and even triggering defenses in the whole trench when one plant is attacked by disease or bugs. The soil food web science has come a long way in the past decade. Do you know what specific microbes are in roots organic microbe charge?