HELP Strange flower development Day 41 Small-knobby

  • Thread starter Bangarang
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jfizzle2cmu

jfizzle2cmu

187
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Your guess is my experience. Crank the humidity up, but don't forget to crank up the nutrient strength as well, as the plants will drink less water but need more nutrient. I run 70% RH @ 80F. It works well, especially when I can keep up with their nutrient requirements. At the moment, I'm seeing nutrient deficiencies at EC 1.7- weird.

Yes, forgot about nutes. Basically, you can push your plants into overdrive by running higher rh, temp, co2, light intensity, and nutes.
 
LordOfThNugz

LordOfThNugz

228
63
Your guess is my experience. Crank the humidity up, but don't forget to crank up the nutrient strength as well, as the plants will drink less water but need more nutrient. I run 70% RH @ 80F. It works well, especially when I can keep up with their nutrient requirements. At the moment, I'm seeing nutrient deficiencies at EC 1.7- weird.

I may be off, but are you sure that you are seeing nute deficiencies and not nute lock? Overfeeding and/or nutrient incompatibilities can lead to underfed looking symptoms.

Also the higher the temp, the more CO2 needed to maintain density and prevent foxtailing. You gotta dial all of it in w each other.
 
Jboys3

Jboys3

236
43
Your guess is my experience. Crank the humidity up, but don't forget to crank up the nutrient strength as well, as the plants will drink less water but need more nutrient. I run 70% RH @ 80F. It works well, especially when I can keep up with their nutrient requirements. At the moment, I'm seeing nutrient deficiencies at EC 1.7- weird.
I am not too sure I can raise my humidty level that high without injecting a mister into my room. I use a/c while you use a swamp cooler. Much dryer air involved with a/c.

I talked with another indoor grower who has 15 years of experience like you and he is very leary of having a 70% RH level. He was not worried about mold, but powdery mildew. He feels no matter how much air movement you have your buds are 'tight' and no air can get inside the bud where the mildew grows. He did tell me to get my tesperature up as I am not getting the full usuage of my CO2.

Perhaps the strains I was running at the time of my 'experiment' and my inexperience were causing the stretching I ran into during the raising of my temps.

I am sorry , but I am not educated enough to understand your comment, "EC 1.7". Could you please enlighten me as to what you are refering too.
 
jfizzle2cmu

jfizzle2cmu

187
43
I am not too sure I can raise my humidty level that high without injecting a mister into my room. I use a/c while you use a swamp cooler. Much dryer air involved with a/c.

I talked with another indoor grower who has 15 years of experience like you and he is very leary of having a 70% RH level. He was not worried about mold, but powdery mildew. He feels no matter how much air movement you have your buds are 'tight' and no air can get inside the bud where the mildew grows. He did tell me to get my tesperature up as I am not getting the full usuage of my CO2.

Perhaps the strains I was running at the time of my 'experiment' and my inexperience were causing the stretching I ran into during the raising of my temps.

I am sorry , but I am not educated enough to understand your comment, "EC 1.7". Could you please enlighten me as to what you are refering too.

Electric conductivity...the real measurement of ppms. See ppm meters are actually the electric conductivity taken and then translated into ppms for ease, though there are several different calibration methods used for ppm meters, so when I tell you my ppm meter reads 550, your model may read 720 or such. EC is much more accurate reading of nutrient strength.
 
jfizzle2cmu

jfizzle2cmu

187
43
And I don't believe powdery mildew is a directly caused by high rh either...another common myth.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
I am not too sure I can raise my humidty level that high without injecting a mister into my room. I use a/c while you use a swamp cooler. Much dryer air involved with a/c.

I talked with another indoor grower who has 15 years of experience like you and he is very leary of having a 70% RH level. He was not worried about mold, but powdery mildew. He feels no matter how much air movement you have your buds are 'tight' and no air can get inside the bud where the mildew grows. He did tell me to get my tesperature up as I am not getting the full usuage of my CO2.

Perhaps the strains I was running at the time of my 'experiment' and my inexperience were causing the stretching I ran into during the raising of my temps.

I am sorry , but I am not educated enough to understand your comment, "EC 1.7". Could you please enlighten me as to what you are refering too.

My cooling system is not to be confused with a swamp cooler- which by the way would be the best solution for you to raise humidity in your air conditioned setup, much better than misting for sure!

I run a chiller, which uses a compressor like an AC unit but to chill WATER, not air- then I pump this water throughout my setup to chill RDWC water, control humidity and maintain air temps. The working temperature of this water chilling system sets the dewpoint in each room, and thus along with controlling temperature also regulates humidity.
 
Capulator

Capulator

likes to smell trees.
Supporter
6,070
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So tonight i took a moment and thought about everything. jfizzle2cmu nailed it. I checked the run off and my EC was 5.0 and ph of 5.1. So i went ahead and flushed them all real well with some 6.3 water with Clearx. I flushed them until the runoff was down to EC 2.5. I will reduce my food on the next feed in half. Any other suggestions?
So i transitioned from Big Bud to Moab; could it be possible that when the two interact within the coco that they produced an excessive amount of salt?
I had this problem before with a different genetic. I am thinking that with the warmer weather they are not able to digest the nutes as well.
Thanks


FLUSH MORE> Get it down to 1.5 or less.
 
B

Bangarang

220
43
They are done now. In the end i flushed down to 2.5 and reduceded my next feed to EC 1.8. Then flushed again because runoff was high. Brewed a batch of tea and then feed them 1 cup to 10 gallons of tea. They pulled through but a valuable lesson learned. In the end the Dutch produced a lot of flavorful boogers and the Platinum was super larfy. Oh well.
What would cause total THC to be 10-12%? I get the plant is really cranking on trichs but what shit. Could low levels of CO2 be the bit culprit?
 
marqmars

marqmars

7
3
Ok so i am having some issues once again. WTF? I will let the pictures do all of the talking. Please point out anything that comes to mind. I know what the leaves are telling me but i am stumped on how to fix them. I cut out the PK and reduced nutes on the Platinum. Today was day 41 for the Platinum and Dutch treat.
Something that has been happening is this strange flower development. What is the cause for this? My room runs from 79-83 with 800-900ppm CO2 with RH of 40-65%. I need to fix this.
This Dutch Treat plant has very small flowers, in fact i have never seen so many tiny flowers on a plant. Any reason or advice? I do not know the history of these strains as they were a gift from a friend.
The picture of the headband is day 12.

Roots Soilless
Platinum OG
Dutch Treat
Headband

This is what i run if i do not know the genetics. (Grow-Micro-Bloom) in ml
Week 1
6-6-6
5 Cal/mg
3 Amino Aide
1-2 Silica

Day 7
1.5-3-4
5 Cal/mg
1ml Moab
OR
Ph'd water with 1.5ml Bushmaster but this is dependent on the strain because of height restrictions.

Week 2 EC: 2.0-2.2
3-6-8 and ramp up micro and bloom to week 3
5 Cal/mg
1-2 Silica
1 Floralicious Plus

Week 3-5 EC:2.2-2.4
3-8-12
5 Cal/mg
1-2 Silica
1 Floralicious Plus
8 Big Bud Liquid (start with 4ml first time then up to 8)
3 Carbo Load
10 Hydrazyme once a week
1.5 Snow Storm every other watering

Week 6-7 (8 depending on if it is a 8 or 9 weeker) (No MOAB or Dry KB for Platinum bc of symptoms) EC:2.6
0-6-9
3 Cal/mg
1 Floralicious Plus
10 Flora Nectar Cane Sugar
.75-1 Dry KoolBloom
1.5 Snow Storm every other
Or
0-4-6
3 Cal/mg
1 Floralicious Plus
1.2-2 Moab
1.5 Snow Storm every other

Week 8
Flush with Hydrazym first time
Flush with ph'd water 2-3 times


I had this problems years ago when starting out and as I went on I learned that it happened for 2 reasons heat and ppm's being too high. More often than not it was the ppm's being too high. None of my sativas, especially my J1. My sativas wouldn't do well above 1000ppm or EC 2.0, in soil and about 800 or EC 1.6 in hydro. My indicas and hybrids; mainly O.G. will take up to 14-1600 ppm or EC 2.8-3.2. All maxes come between weeks 5-7 depending on strain, then I scale back and week 7-8 or 9 to half of whatever I am using the flush. Anyway I am kind of rambling, but you should flush for a week then resume feeding at half strength and monitor, regardless of week you are in...

Ok after going back through your chart again, your EC is too high in week 2 and 3...Scale back to EC 1.0- till week 3, then ramp up Week 4: EC 1.5, Week 5: EC 1.8, Week 6 2.0 on your Platinum OG it starts to yellow and stunts growth above 2.1 in my experience in soil, but in hydro it can take up EC 2.8. As far as the Dutch Treat I have no experience with, but the Headband can take up to EC 2.8 from week 6-8, and scale back to half depending on cut, because I usually cut her at week 10. In all honesty after all the years of doing this I have found that I really don't see any real benefits at running above ppm 1000 or EC 2.0. I still am in the final year of testing this theory as I have watched someone use cheap nutes at half the recommended strength, with a cheaper bulb, and a great environment, with girls that I provided and yielded the same as me on his first run and this last run almost doubled my run, and I average about 1.3-1.6 lbs/l1000watts. Doesn't matter how long you have been at it, you can always learn. Oh lastly remove the dry Kool Bloom, it almost always caused my girls to stop nutrient uptake and a few times began to hermie....Ok I am done! Keep me posted, I thought I would respond anyway, though you may be finished with your grow.
 
B

Bangarang

220
43
Marqmars thanks for the response. I think that you are onto something. This last run i just reduced my base to 0 Grow 6 Micro 9 Bloom and then fed my additivies at aboce dosage (more or less). Everything came out all good but i have some environmental issues that i am addressing now. I was too focused on genetics and nutrients without focusing on the most important thing... my room.
 
ttystikk

ttystikk

6,892
313
Marqmars thanks for the response. I think that you are onto something. This last run i just reduced my base to 0 Grow 6 Micro 9 Bloom and then fed my additivies at aboce dosage (more or less). Everything came out all good but i have some environmental issues that i am addressing now. I was too focused on genetics and nutrients without focusing on the most important thing... my room.

If you've been following my posts, I've been screaming this very same thing from the top of my lungs for YEARS now. I don't get how people can expect the genetics of a plant to save them from having to provide a decent environment for it? How many professional athletes now competing in front of millions of people ever suffered from childhood malnutrition? Do marathon runners eat Twinkies and run in heels?

Environment is as important as genetics. Neither can be ignored. Genetics sets the bar, environment and technique determine how close your crop comes to it.
 
B

Bangarang

220
43
I had this problems years ago when starting out and as I went on I learned that it happened for 2 reasons heat and ppm's being too high. More often than not it was the ppm's being too high. None of my sativas, especially my J1. My sativas wouldn't do well above 1000ppm or EC 2.0, in soil and about 800 or EC 1.6 in hydro. My indicas and hybrids; mainly O.G. will take up to 14-1600 ppm or EC 2.8-3.2. All maxes come between weeks 5-7 depending on strain, then I scale back and week 7-8 or 9 to half of whatever I am using the flush. Anyway I am kind of rambling, but you should flush for a week then resume feeding at half strength and monitor, regardless of week you are in...

Ok after going back through your chart again, your EC is too high in week 2 and 3...Scale back to EC 1.0- till week 3, then ramp up Week 4: EC 1.5, Week 5: EC 1.8, Week 6 2.0 on your Platinum OG it starts to yellow and stunts growth above 2.1 in my experience in soil, but in hydro it can take up EC 2.8. As far as the Dutch Treat I have no experience with, but the Headband can take up to EC 2.8 from week 6-8, and scale back to half depending on cut, because I usually cut her at week 10. In all honesty after all the years of doing this I have found that I really don't see any real benefits at running above ppm 1000 or EC 2.0. I still am in the final year of testing this theory as I have watched someone use cheap nutes at half the recommended strength, with a cheaper bulb, and a great environment, with girls that I provided and yielded the same as me on his first run and this last run almost doubled my run, and I average about 1.3-1.6 lbs/l1000watts. Doesn't matter how long you have been at it, you can always learn. Oh lastly remove the dry Kool Bloom, it almost always caused my girls to stop nutrient uptake and a few times began to hermie....Ok I am done! Keep me posted, I thought I would respond anyway, though you may be finished with your grow.


I keep thinking about what you wrote. The problem i have with your suggested EC is that i would be feeding something like 0-3-5 and 3 cal/mg. I tried hitting 1.0 ec but i do not even run that low with my Jacks in Veg. Did you mean to run EC 2.o and then ramp up from there?
 
marqmars

marqmars

7
3
Let me check. I was converting to EC, because I always use PPMs. I know I run them really low. I will check in journal and get back to you momentarily.
 
marqmars

marqmars

7
3
Hey Bangarang, I checked and for my J1 my high is between EC 1.8-2.0. Increasing in Weeks 6-8, then scaling down end of week 8, full 2-5 day flush in week 9 (just depends on how they respond to me). In the coming weeks I will upload journal and get some pics...Toker time:cigar: If you are able just pull a couple girls aside and scale back and compare.
 
marqmars

marqmars

7
3
If you've been following my posts, I've been screaming this very same thing from the top of my lungs for YEARS now. I don't get how people can expect the genetics of a plant to save them from having to provide a decent environment for it? How many professional athletes now competing in front of millions of people ever suffered from childhood malnutrition? Do marathon runners eat Twinkies and run in heels?

Environment is as important as genetics. Neither can be ignored. Genetics sets the bar, environment and technique determine how close your crop comes to it.

WELL SAID TTYSTIKK!!!

I learned the hard way $$$$ spent on genetics + subpar environmental conditions = -$$$$$$.
 
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