Help with diagnosis.

[Ne Obliviscaris]

Hi folks. I just started up in a new place five weeks ago, and am using exactly the same protocols in my last place and am having issues with yellowing of the upper leaves and a little bit of curling and deformed new growth on the most affected plant (see pics). At this point I have one tent in flower and one in veg, the pics are from the veg tent, the plants in flower did four weeks of veg at the same spot using the same protocols and never showed any issues, although its possible they're starting to show a tiny bit of yellowing, but I could just be imaging that

I grow is soil (roots organics) in 5 gallon fabric pots
I use roots ferts (trinity and grow are the only ferts the vegging plants have seen so far)
I'm in 4x8 tents with tons of air flow temps are ~75, never above 85 as measured right at canopy hight
I water daily just until run through (there's enough air flow combined with the fabric pots that pots are mostly dry day to day)
Humidity is between 40-60%
I havent Ph'd the water, but I'm using the same city tap water as I was at my last spot with no issues

 

[BuildandGrow]

Hi folks. I just started up in a new place five weeks ago, and am using exactly the same protocols in my last place and am having issues with yellowing of the upper leaves and a little bit of curling and deformed new growth on the most affected plant (see pics). At this point I have one tent in flower and one in veg, the pics are from the veg tent, the plants in flower did four weeks of veg at the same spot using the same protocols and never showed any issues, although its possible they're starting to show a tiny bit of yellowing, but I could just be imaging that

I grow is soil (roots organics) in 5 gallon fabric pots
I use roots ferts (trinity and grow are the only ferts the vegging plants have seen so far)
I'm in 4x8 tents with tons of air flow temps are ~75, never above 85 as measured right at canopy hight
I water daily just until run through (there's enough air flow combined with the fabric pots that pots are mostly dry day to day)
Humidity is between 40-60%
I havent Ph'd the water, but I'm using the same city tap water as I was at my last spot with no issues
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The water at the new place could easily have a completely different PH. Most tap water that I have tested comes out around 6.8-7.5. The lower number could work for soil, the higher number would cause issues. Most people will suggest a PH of 6.5 for soil. This is where the all of the essential nutrients can easily be absorbed.

An incorrect PH can cause a nutrient lockout. So even if the nutrient is present, the plant will not absorb it like it should. This makes it difficult to identify the deficiency and impossible to solve it. You need to invest in a PH meter. It is a life saver. Be sure to PH your water after you add your nutrients.

 

[Cort]

+1 check the water.
Take some to your local shop and they will gladly ph/ppm the water for you.

Is your new spot a newly built structure? New drywall, does not have to be cheap china stuff, can still off gas.

 

[Ne Obliviscaris]

Yeah, as I said the water is the only thing different about the grows.

Does that look like the kind of effect you'd see in leaves from water thats too basic or too acidic?

Just using the leaf guides and those diagnostic diagrams that get posted on here every once in a while it looked to my like an iron deficiency, but that seemed strange to me since the roots soil plus ferts should have plenty of iron.

 

[BuildandGrow]

Iron is something that suffers a lockout at high PH levels. I do not advise trying to address the issue until you get your water right.

 

[Ne Obliviscaris]

Is your new spot a newly built structure? New drywall, does not have to be cheap china stuff, can still off gas.

Nope, not a new structure, house thats a few decades old. Air is passively pulled from the house and actively vented outside, though, so I am pulling air across everything inside the house.

 

[Ne Obliviscaris]

Iron is something that suffers a lockout at high PH levels. I do not advise trying to address the issue until you get your water right.

I did not know that, thanks. So it would make sense then that if the tap water is high PH wise it would cause iron lockout which would cause that almost verigated look in the leaves. I've got a PH meter somewhere, I'll dig it up tomorrow.

 

[Cort]

Well, water that is off will throw off the soil's ph. Throw the ph out of whack and the plant cannot reach the nutes that are in the soil. Knowing what is going in and what is coming out is a very good first step. Second is bug patrol.

 

[Cort]

B&G has it covered here, in more depth than I can give. Good luck.

 

[Ne Obliviscaris]

Well, water that is off will throw off the soil's ph. Throw the ph out of whack and the plant cannot reach the nutes that are in the soil. Knowing what is going in and what is coming out is a very good first step. Second is bug patrol.

I'm 90% sure its not bugs, nothing on the leaves nothing at superficial levels in the soil. I'll dig up my PH meeter (its a soil tester from bluelab) and take in a water sample to the shop tomorrow.

Assuming it is a PH issue, should I just invest in an RO system?

 

[BuildandGrow]

I'm 90% sure its not bugs, nothing on the leaves nothing at superficial levels in the soil. I'll dig up my PH meeter (its a soil tester from bluelab) and take in a water sample to the shop tomorrow.

Assuming it is a PH issue, should I just invest in an RO system?

Bug patrol is a constant thing, and nothing can beat a preventative pest control schedule/measures.

RO systems are great to have but the average system is not build to adjust the PH. It only depends on the water that is put into the system and the impurities that where taken out (if they happen to effected the PH). The average RO will bring your water to a ppm of 0.

Testing your soils PH can be a great thing. This can really help you in choosing the proper soil company to work with. However, if the issues is that you have been watering with high PH water, your soil will be off and knowing the PH of the soil will not help us address your immediate issue. A PH meter for water is a must. Keep the probe moist at all times.

 

[Ne Obliviscaris]

Just FYI, both of you were right on, PH of the water in the new house was close to 8. Took the water down to 6.1-6.2 gave a good feed and a little epsom salts.

 

[BuildandGrow]

Glad to help