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Help with identifying the deficiencies and what to do!

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Help with identifying the deficiencies and what to do!

johnny.doefarmer 13 Replies 748 Views
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johnny.doefarmer

johnny.doefarmer

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#1
Can anybody tell me what the deficiency is in this OG Kush plant. You can tell the difference between a two plants One of the back is way more greener than one beside it is light green and has a one leaf one or two leaves is purplish what does it need. It just went into flower and i am growing in fox farm. And it's not a auto flower. I really have not added any nutrients to it besides just topping off with fox farm here and there but just gave some calmag yesterday.I know OG kush does not like a whole lot of supplements it seems like from the mother of these I grew out last summer. If anybody has any ideas please let me know. Or what is this procedure I should use to get it back in track. This is only like my 4th grow so I don't have a whole lot of experience. And is my 1st indoor.
 

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#2
what sort of light do you have ? and at what percentage on the dimmer...a light that is too intense will block out nitrogen i believe first, which makes the leaves go more yellow. is the light centered more over the front plant?
 
#4
You can always lower the intensity of your light a tad just until you get things figured out.

What temps are you running and how often do you water? Whenā€™s the last top dress you gave them?
 
#6
Classic symptoms of salt accumulation in the soil, usually from channeling/columning or shelving and is caused by improper watering. The way you can fix it is when it's ready to accept water again, do a slow drip saturation of the soil, let about a quart run out the bottom over the course of about an hour and then collect some of the water coming out and check it with a EC pen. Keep dripping water until the value falls to a safe level, under 2.0 or about 1000ppm. (1.6-1.8 more ideal). If you see the number going up that's a good thing, it means you found the salt pocket that wasn't getting watered.
 
#8
 
#9
Ninjadogma said:
Classic symptoms of salt accumulation in the soil, usually from channeling/columning or shelving and is caused by improper watering. The way you can fix it is when it's ready to accept water again, do a slow drip saturation of the soil, let about a quart run out the bottom over the course of about an hour and then collect some of the water coming out and check it with a EC pen. Keep dripping water until the value falls to a safe level, under 2.0 or about 1000ppm. (1.6-1.8 more ideal). If you see the number going up that's a good thing, it means you found the salt pocket that wasn't getting watered.
Click to expand...
I will try next watering. Thanks for your time.
 
#10
Ninjadogma said:
Classic symptoms of salt accumulation in the soil, usually from channeling/columning or shelving and is caused by improper watering. The way you can fix it is when it's ready to accept water again, do a slow drip saturation of the soil, let about a quart run out the bottom over the course of about an hour and then collect some of the water coming out and check it with a EC pen. Keep dripping water until the value falls to a safe level, under 2.0 or about 1000ppm. (1.6-1.8 more ideal). If you see the number going up that's a good thing, it means you found the salt pocket that wasn't getting watered.
Click to expand...
I have them in 7 gallon pots. And I probably don't water them thoroughly. So that probably is the reason. Do you think I will have to worry about over watering if I do this. I guess that don't really don't matter if I save my grow... Lol.. they will snap back.
 
#11
BearWater said:
You can always lower the intensity of your light a tad just until you get things figured out.

What temps are you running and how often do you water? Whenā€™s the last top dress you gave them?
Click to expand...
It's a 200 watt led I have 2 of them on 5 plants. It's from lowes but it has Samsung diodes or whatever ever the LEDS are called. I did run the humidity up a little high for a while.
 
#12
johnny.doefarmer said:
I have them in 7 gallon pots. And I probably don't water them thoroughly. So that probably is the reason. Do you think I will have to worry about over watering if I do this. I guess that don't really don't matter if I save my grow... Lol.. they will snap back.
Click to expand...
Also what is the meter called. I think I need one. I don't even have a PH METER either.
 
#13
johnny.doefarmer said:
Also what is the meter called. I think I need one. I don't even have a PH METER either.
Click to expand...
Also I forgot to mention I took clones from a strong plant while it was flowering back in August last year. I never have flushed them. So it has been what... 6 months. Or so. Give it take. It took to them a long time to switch back to veg cause the clones were in flower. The leaves looked like basil leaves for a long time. But they snapped out of it. Do you think it is to late. Can I save them. And how should I feed them after I flush
 
#14
johnny.doefarmer said:
Also I forgot to mention I took clones from a strong plant while it was flowering back in August last year. I never have flushed them. So it has been what... 6 months. Or so. Give it take. It took to them a long time to switch back to veg cause the clones were in flower. The leaves looked like basil leaves for a long time. But they snapped out of it. Do you think it is to late. Can I save them. And how should I feed them after I flush
Click to expand...

If you're growing in soil you don't flush. Well you actually do but it's an entirely different thing. So the salt problem, yes a long vegging plant or an older plant is a prime candidate because if you're not watering right, over time the soil becomes more and more uneven. Portions of the soil become dry where there are higher concentrations of minerals, and then those pockets stay dry even when you water because they become hydrophobic and repel water.

I might be repeating earlier info but an easy cheap fix is to start doing your watering using empty 16 Oz water bottles. With a thumb tack, poke two holes in the bottom and two holes in the top. When it's time to water, fill the bottle and just set it on the soil and keep filling it up and setting it on the soil until water starts coming out the bottom. If you're in a 5 gallon pot you want to see about two bottles worth of water come out the bottom. You mentioned 7 gallon so aim for 3 bottles worth of waste. This should greatly mitigate any channeling/shelving moving forward. A drip irrigation setup makes easy work of it but as you can see, you don't have to spend money to make one. Alternatively, you can do the work with a watering can with a shower fitting but you have to pour about 4 ounces at at time and wait, and that sucks. This is for normal watering, not just your fix.

So because you don't know just how salty it has become, you don't know how much water it will require. If it was coco or something you could just plan on pouring 15 gallons through and reset it but this is where soil flushing is different. We only want to draw the salt out and only minimally displace the soil or the microbes living in it. This is why it's slow work and if it's really bad you're not going to get all of it in one sitting.

The pens will give you data. An EC/ppm pen will give you an electrical conductivity reading which tells you the concentration of dissolved minerals. If you water correctly, you won't need to be babysitting your runoff all the time That shit gets old. If you ever work with bottle nutes it'll come in handy checking the strength of your feedings but if you're doing dry amends it's just something you can break out periodically and check things, especially if something is off.
 
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